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| What precaution to solder those tiny gauge ? how to ? |
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| repairs:
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| Gyro:
It's a bit busy in there isn't it! Clearly there is no point in trying to detach the wires from the PCB, the signal ones go to a PCB connector (together with a bunch of other ones) and the thicker Red and Black power ones go off through a ferrite bead to somewhere that I can't see. Luckily you have a nice empty area where the only thing to avoid is the cylindrical bottom of the joystick. I see two options, depending on whether you are going to replace the extended grommet... 1. Leave the grommet, cut the cable tie but don't cut any of the wires. Just push/pull the cable up through the grommet, including the short blue one (cut away the small bit of cable outer that was under the grommet). Re-secure and then just splice the blue one once it's inside the case. You are going to have some extra slack in the wires to deal with but hopefully you can form them so that they don't get trapped between the bottom of the joystick and the case. Clearly the easiest option, but it means that you don't get as much protection against cable bending where it goes into the remains of the existing grommet. 2. Cut the wires where you indicated. Fit a new grommet push, the cable in and secure, then splice all of the wires. This gives you more protection against cable bending in future but requires more soldering. You will still want to keep the wires inside the housing fairly long, you need to be able to slip lengths of heatshrink sleeving onto the wires before soldering without having the ends prematurely shrink from soldering heat before you can get them over the solder joints. The Blue and Green wires are a twisted differential data signal pair. You need to end up with them as close together as possible, but twisting shouldn't be critical over such a short length, this means splicing the full length of the Blue wire in option 1 rather than shortening it. You also need to be really careful of the connections between the base and lid, particularly that ribbon. It should be detachable at the PCB connector, but can be fiddly if you're not used to them. Maintaining best strain relief with a new grommet is clearly better, long term, but certainly wouldn't blame you for picking option 1. Just make sure that the wires are routed so that they don't get trapped under the joystick when you screw it back together. |
| repairs:
--- Quote from: Gyro on January 09, 2025, 08:44:05 pm ---Ià. The Blue and Green wires are a twisted differential data signal pair. You need to end up with them as close together as possible, but twisting shouldn't be critical over such a short length, this means splicing the full length of the Blue wire in option 1 rather than shortening it. You also need to be really careful of the connections between the base and lid, particularly that ribbon. It should be detachable at the PCB connector, but can be fiddly if you're not used to them. à --- End quote --- HI I dont know what is differential data signal and the importance of it. I understood most of what you wrote generally, but theses sentences i can not fully understand since english I am still learning as yoda would phrase it. à Why end up with green and blue wires have to be as close as possible, and what as close together as possible meaning. What about the ribbon, what is the ribbon for you? what about the should be detachable at the pcb? I see that the info your are are trying to convey in that paragraph are not landing in my neurons. To help me , could you use other words to express your ideas about this paragraph? I would like to understand you. Thanks |
| coppercone2:
are you sure you want to modify this? That red wire looks... like it had better days. That wire looks like the kind of wire you better replace before it suprises you, so I think that cable is pretty much compromised RIght now its just broken because of a open wire. It looks like that red wire can chew through the insulation and short with another wire, causing a much more serious problem, possibly breaking connected stuff. :-\ I would just call yourself lucky that the red wire did not short out something important and replace it. Really, the blue wire breaking is helpful because it is a friendly warning signal for you to replace the cable. When insulation looks flattened like putty, it means its time for the trash can. That red wire looks thick too, its a power wire that has some current on it. That wire can cause a big problem I think, possibly including cable fire. |
| Swake:
--- Quote from: repairs on January 10, 2025, 04:44:15 am --- --- Quote from: Gyro on January 09, 2025, 08:44:05 pm ---The Blue and Green wires are a twisted differential data signal pair. --- End quote --- I dont know what is differential data signal and the importance of it. --- End quote --- Don't worry, keep them together as they are now as much as possible. If you can twist them as they are now, not more, then do it because that is better. If this twisting is too difficult or you cannot do it over the whole length, then don't worry, it will be good enough. --- Quote from: repairs on January 10, 2025, 04:44:15 am ---What about the ribbon, what is the ribbon for you? --- End quote --- The white flat plastic length that connects the bottom part to the front part of the joystick is called a ribbon cable. As the name implies, each strip you see in there is just a wire. You probably have some buttons or a display in the front. This ribbon wire is somewhat fragile. In your specific case I would advice not to remove it. Certainly don't pull on it. It takes a specific procedure to remove and re-install. It is not difficult, but if you have never done it this can be very enervating. We'll explain in detail should it be required. For now it looks good. If during the repair you think this cable became loose or crooked in the connector, then post a picture and we'll help out. --- Quote from: coppercone2 on January 10, 2025, 05:10:22 am ---That wire looks like the kind of wire you better replace before it surprises you, so I think that cable is pretty much compromised --- End quote --- It is regular low quality cheap wire. Don't worry, it will be fine. Go for Option 1 in Gyro's message. Easiest and quickest. If that doesn't work option 2 is still available after that, but I would suggest you look for a local that has some experience with electronics and the right tools for handling this. |
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