| Electronics > Repair |
| What precaution to solder those tiny gauge ? how to ? |
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| Swake:
Hello Repairs, Looks like a good job! Don't forget the zip tie. Pull the zip fairly hard. It is the one thing that keeps the cable from slipping out. I'd even put 2 zips :D After thoroughly checking all your pictures I too have the impression that the yellow wire is unused and was never connected. - Given its length, I think it was cut off near the entrance on purpose. That is not just a coincidence. - The wires of the cable you repaired disappear under the board with the components. Could you check their routing? My thinking here is that every wire consistently has a connector fitted. If the yellow wire was detached from somewhere then you would find a spot that still has the metal part fitted in the connector but is missing a wire. I cannot find any in your pictures. There is that completely empty spot in the connector with the lonely green wire, but it has no metal part in it and is not the right size for the wire, so the wire was not connected in that spot. - You would also have found another piece of yellow wire somewhere as currently it is not long enough to be connected. - With a multimeter you could check if that yellow wire is terminated on the Redel connector on the other side. But even if it is, and I think it will as your picture shows 6 positions, it does not give the information if it is in use or not. To check this, the easiest method is to use the continuity mode on the multimeter, the one that beeps. If that mode does not exist then select resistance and look for very low resistance, use another wire for a reference measurement to understand what to look for. |
| Gyro:
Yes, it looks like a good practical repair. :-+ Sorry, I only got a quick look at the large photos before you deleted them, so I didn't really get to examine them in enough detail to give a sensible reply. As Swake says, don't forget at least one cable tie to resist the cable being forcibly pulled out. It's really good that you've found that you can get adhesive lined heatshrink to fit over the connector at the far end. That should give you as much bend protection as a new grommet - probably more. Be sure to keep some available and replace it at the first sign of damage. 3:1 shrink ratio, adhesive lined, is common but I think I've seen 4:1 too. Regarding the yellow wire. Judging length by eye, yes I think you are right that it was cut off flush with the original outer insulation of the cable, fairly common practice for unused cores. If everything is working correctly, I would just fold it back on itself and put a piece of sleeve or tape on it to avoid any possibility of shorts (to the metal joystick can for instance). That's assuming that it isn't also cut off at the plug end - better safe than sorry. You've probably saved yourself quite a lot of money there. My neighbor managed to get a replacement joystick unit on ebay, but then had the problem of programming / configuring it to work with his chair. Irrc, it needed configuring for the options on the chair (lift, moving footrest etc) and things like acceleration. He was responsible for finding the bootleg configuration software etc. - my only involvement was implementing a non-standard USB-serial PC interface, but it certainly wasn't plug-and-play. I'm glad you're back in business anyway. Try to be a bit more gentle with it - although I realize that it probably gets daily wear and tear. Maybe you can rig up something (even a bit of velcro) to avoid it getting dropped as much. Good luck with it. |
| repairs:
--- Quote from: Swake on January 13, 2025, 09:27:33 am ---To check this, the easiest method is to use the continuity mode on the multimeter, the one that beeps. If that mode does not exist then select resistance and look for very low resistance, use another wire for a reference measurement to understand what to look for. --- End quote --- Hi this is the multimeter i have . can it do it? I dont know continuity mode and feel lost on how to do what. Proster Digital Clamp Meter TRMS 6000counts, 800A DC AC Current AC/DC Voltage NCV Continuity Capacitance Resistance Frequency Diode Hz Test, with1 PairTest Leads 1 Pair Alligator Clips Yes I did put 2 tie wrap plus glue. https://www.amazon.ca/6000counts-Continuity-Capacitance-Resistance-Frequency/dp/B075Z1GH5L/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1CADPZSG4YE5Z&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.I9zzGqKw5DAjOpmX6qPOpZ4Rn7Xs2DPu8HMuHhl3goI9IkN19aV6kAul8yf4rBbTnQZCguvykRUXM5ezigOPUWOF37I_oxjKnPNlRZZt92LWhNsaYqszPZeRbphA24qZl67MfhgTZxnAidzkWQelYWjQ0fRskf4nmLKTWfa471uAXZsJzrdL9m1ItdQwpQST26uFCcOFT-hPdIFJ8-WFv10iR57NGfO2pycNXIp3XlVRDR3a3bgYCTKpl5uFSTg8pQD3y1QWYTcgzX9pfit7dR9JYkfnCJwqx-62k6QQHBP7nbG5jWyM61yHnrnSjqDOU2DuyZgPerADhPvCUYb0mRnieqHJqQXrcwvOM4ipypeWziVs5tbp_t7ZQUkBvWOZScykQjgCkdjq_njZZEFCoKMHoG-RLh5DSoDnCg3QgjoWoiJmPt9iI2HnZzpLkUfR.473meSx1G58AMN_rc_kTHbGy5Zd34gTpsWJCoTevJsk&dib_tag=se&keywords=multimeter&qid=1736796350&sprefix=multi%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-9&th=1 |
| Grandchuck:
URL shortened: https://www.amazon.ca/6000counts-Continuity-Capacitance-Resistance-Frequency/dp/B075Z1GH5L |
| Swake:
Yes, your multimeter has the beeper mode. Turn the knob just past the 'V--' position, and before the 'Hz'. See attached pic for position. That position has 4 modes, you want the one with the 'sound waves' icon. I believe you might have to press the 'select' button, eventually multiple times. The same 'sound wave' sign should show up on the display. In that position the multimeter will beep when you short the 2 measurement leads together. And that is exactly how you want to use it: put a test lead on each side of the wire to check if there is connection. If it beeps there is connection. |
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