Where can I find a Multi-meter 200mA fuse?

[DW1961]

I'll let you all get a good laugh, but I need to find one of these fuses. Any ideas where I might find one locally, or is this going to be an order item only?
It's about 3/4" long and 200mA. It says HV510 on it, which I assume is the designator for the size and amperage?

[TimFox]

The dimensions are the metric standard 5 x 20 mm, and the current rating is 200 mA.
HV510 is the fuse type.  DMM fuses have special specifications for safety purposes, and are quite expensive.
If you search the forum, you will find many, many threads complaining about the cost, with some useful suggestions of where to find them.
Home Depot has them for about $10:  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-200mA-600-Volt-Replacement-Fuse-69031/206825588

[Ian.M]

Yep. I was about to post the same link.

Its a 20mm 600V fast acting ceramic fuse, probably sand-filled.

If its strictly for personal use under 50V I know of (but cannot condone) people who have temporarily used a glass fuse with heatshrink over the body to reduce the carnage if it ruptures, but be aware that the meter's CAT rating is now null and void, you risk another fuse-blowing 'idiot moment' damaging the current shunts^*, and you'd better tag it 'UNSAFE - DO NOT USE' and keep it under lock and key if there's any risk of it getting 'borrowed'.

N.B. I'm from the generation that grew up with analog meters with glass fuses and brittle cases; CAT ratings hadn't even been invented yet, so my definition of 'acceptable risk'  is probably a lot looser than the youngsters who've only trained on CAT rated DMMs regard as acceptable.

* If you were an idiot before you had the 'idiot moment' and you were using it over 50V with a fake or glass fuse it may do worse than blow its shunts before the fuse clears, it may blow up in your face!

[floobydust]

Most 5x20mm fuses are 250VAC rated, they are simply too short to handle a higher voltage arc unless sand-filled.
That fuse ASTM HV510 5x20mm 200mA 600VAC 1kA used in Klein Tools multimeters. It's low interrupt rating is just for home/car use.

EEVblog store sells ASTM fuse kits for DMM's with larger 400mA 6x32mm and 11A 10x38mm at a low cost.

[DW1961]

The dimensions are the metric standard 5 x 20 mm, and the current rating is 200 mA.
HV510 is the fuse type.  DMM fuses have special specifications for safety purposes, and are quite expensive.
If you search the forum, you will find many, many threads complaining about the cost, with some useful suggestions of where to find them.
Home Depot has them for about $10:  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-200mA-600-Volt-Replacement-Fuse-69031/206825588

Geeze, I can replace the entire meter for 18.00. It's the Amazon brand Commercial:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonCommercial-Manual-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B07VY41YHM/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=amazon+digital+multimeter&qid=1599171734&sr=8-7

So 7 bucks more gets me a new unit. Not just a fuse.

[TimFox]

Safety isn't cheap.
The usual way to blow that fuse is to accidentally connect the meter in current mode across the AC mains.  Depending on where you connect it (with respect to circuit breakers, etc.) there will be a huge current available to cause damage and injury to the person holding the meter.  Look up the meaning of the various "categories" to make clear what the safety considerations are. 
You can probably find a cheaper authentic fuse, but you wanted a local source.   The Amazon listing (in the Q&A) says that replacement fuses are available from Amazon.
Again, check the forum about multimeter fuses, and you will also find complaints about counterfeit fuses that do not meet spec that are available at far cheaper prices.

[DW1961]

Safety isn't cheap.
The usual way to blow that fuse is to accidentally connect the meter in current mode across the AC mains.  Depending on where you connect it (with respect to circuit breakers, etc.) there will be a huge current available to cause damage and injury to the person holding the meter.  Look up the meaning of the various "categories" to make clear what the safety considerations are. 
You can probably find a cheaper authentic fuse, but you wanted a local source.   The Amazon listing (in the Q&A) says that replacement fuses are available from Amazon.
Again, check the forum about multimeter fuses, and you will also find complaints about counterfeit fuses that do not meet spec that are available at far cheaper prices.

Yeah I saw that response on Amazon. Someone begin a smart ass. They are available on "Amazon" for 13 bucks each. Geeze, the meter is 18.00 bucks (I got it when it was 13.00 intro price). Somehow, Amazon must be getting them cheaper than 10 bucks, or they would have to charge a lot more for the meter. It seems that model is a Klein fuse.

[Ian.M]

You *could* down-grade it to CAT I 300V, by totally eradicating the old CAT markings, relabeling, and also disabling the 600V ranges (probably just remove one resistor) and fit a cheap 250V 200mA ceramic fast fuse.

I wouldn't trust its CAT III rating further than I could throw it standing on the probes!   If you are working on building wiring, get a real CAT III or better meter from a reputable manufacturer.

[DW1961]

Yep. I was about to post the same link.

Its a 20mm 600V fast acting ceramic fuse, probably sand-filled.

If its strictly for personal use under 50V I know of (but cannot condone) people who have temporarily used a glass fuse with heatshrink over the body to reduce the carnage if it ruptures, but be aware that the meter's CAT rating is now null and void, you risk another fuse-blowing 'idiot moment' damaging the current shunts^*, and you'd better tag it 'UNSAFE - DO NOT USE' and keep it under lock and key if there's any risk of it getting 'borrowed'.

Did you mean since the fuse blew it is null and void, or did you mean if I used a glass fuse?

[Ian.M]

Any substitution with a  glass fuse would void its CAT rating.  Not even safe for CAT 1.  Derate to current limited SELV or PELV unofficial usage only.  As Floobydust pointed out, it takes a sand fill to clear the arc at its fuses rated voltage and only 20mm length, and glass is highly unlikely to contain the likely energy release if it did have a sand fill.  Without a fill, if you were dumb enough to use it for CAT III work anywhere near its voltage rating, you'd be one slip of a probe from a sustained arc in the fuse, which will basically detonate it, and depending on exactly how the PCB and casing fail (and they will if the energy isn't limited, either by source impedance or an effective fuse clearing the fault), possibly involving the operator in a full-on arc flash.   If you aren't wearing the right PPE which is little short of full NASA 'moonsuit'^*, there are significant odds that you'll become a 'crispy critter' and much higher odds that you'll receive severe permanent life-altering injuries, that will make you wish you hadn't survived.

I've used multimeters that had no better protection than a 20mm glass fuse, a totally unfused 10A range, and a brittle plastic case, but even back before CAT rating was a thing, anyone with any electrical savvy knew that working on 415V three phase distribution with such a meter had high odds of a very bad outcome, and should be left to the pros who had the high quality gear that various manufacturers were developing towards what eventually became the CAT rating system.  Even at 240V, unless downstream of a BS1362 ceramic fuse or similar,  you isolated, hooked up the meter, stood back and cut the power back on to take a reading, and isolated again before even getting really close to, or god forbid, touching the meter or test leads.

* Only in that it doesn't need to provide sustained life support or maintain pressure,  An explosively expanding cloud of copper and steel plasma is transiently a far more hostile environment than the lunar surface at lunar noon.  If you've got the right PPE and are reasonably lucky, it will protect you *ONCE*, then have to be written off.

[DW1961]

I've used multimeters that had no better protection than a 20mm glass fuse, a totally unfused 10A range, and a brittle plastic case, but even back before CAT rating was a thing, anyone with any electrical savvy knew that working on 415V three phase distribution with such a meter had high odds of a very bad outcome, and should be left to the pros who had the high quality gear that various manufacturers were developing towards what eventually became the CAT rating system.  Even at 240V, unless downstream of a BS1362 ceramic fuse or similar,  you isolated, hooked up the meter, stood back and cut the power back on to take a reading, and isolated again before even getting really close to, or god forbid, touching the meter or test leads.

Well, the fuse doesn't work on AC anyway. I was just testing current with 12V DC. I don't think I'd ever stick anything into a 600V application or even get near it. I'd use my meter to test 240V, just to test voltage, but that would be my limit.

When I worked in the oil fields, when I was young and working IN the field, when it was raining, we'd use a 10' wooden pole to switch off the jack pumps that used three phase. Some of those motors were running over 500V and 70A. I mostly stayed away from the power end of them.

I just forgot to change the leads when I was testing 12V 1.6A. And, poof. No more fuse I knew exactly what I did the second I did it, too.

What confuses me is that Amazon is selling that model for 16-25 bucks. Obviously, they aren't paying 5-10 bucks for a single 200mA fuse. At 500mA, the price drops 50%. But, it's not a 500mA fuse.

 I'm just not buying a 10.00 fuse for a 16.00 meter (on sale right now). I have two more meters.

[sleemanj]

Its a 5x20mm fuse in a cheap meter, I'm surprised they used the near unobtanium 600v rated ones, you are lucky it's ceramic.

Replace it with a standard 250v 5x20 ceramic fuse and don't use the meter in current ranges on over 250v or "beyond the wall socket", like you were ever going to use a cheap ass meter on over 250v or beyond the wall socket anyway.

I should open a cotton wool factory, I'd make a frickin fortune.

[DW1961]

Its a 5x20mm fuse in a cheap meter, I'm surprised they used the near unobtanium 600v rated ones, you are lucky it's ceramic.

Replace it with a standard 250v 5x20 ceramic fuse and don't use the meter in current ranges on over 250v or "beyond the wall socket", like you were ever going to use a cheap ass meter on over 250v or beyond the wall socket anyway.

I should open a cotton wool factory, I'd make a frickin fortune.

The meter isn't really an "Amazon" meter. I found a review on it, and the guy tore it down and one of the commenters said it's really a rebranded CEM meter. Anyway, here is the review, which sold me on it, and he tears it down:

[tkamiya]

Although a fuse from Home Depot is expensive for a fuse, it's still $10.  Might as well go for it.

For me, personally, I've used old style glass fuse of similar ratings.  I never use those meters for anything higher than household mains voltage.  (120V)  It's inside a durable plastic casing, so blowing up is very unlikely.  It'll probably just burn a resistor or the meter assembly itself.  It's an old analog meter and it actually came original with those glass fuse.

For anything that matters, like Fluke, or bench-top type,  I'd go with the correct fuse.

[DW1961]

Although a fuse from Home Depot is expensive for a fuse, it's still $10.  Might as well go for it.

For me, personally, I've used old style glass fuse of similar ratings.  I never use those meters for anything higher than household mains voltage.  (120V)  It's inside a durable plastic casing, so blowing up is very unlikely.  It'll probably just burn a resistor or the meter assembly itself.  It's an old analog meter and it actually came original with those glass fuse.

For anything that matters, like Fluke, or bench-top type,  I'd go with the correct fuse.

I can get a completely new meter (same one) for 16 bucks right now. Amazon has them on sale. So, for 6 dollars more, I could have completely new meter, not "new" matters, but it's just the principle.

[Ian.M]

So do that, and put this meter aside till you can get a good deal on a few  'good enough' fuses  Then you've got four meters with two of them the same, (which can be useful) + spare fuses.

[Kleinstein]

With only 6 bucks more for a complete meter (likely including a battery), I would consider writing off the current range on the old meter. Usually voltage and most important the beeper still work when the fuse is gone.

It does not matter if one usually only measures voltage. The usual scenario were a high power fuse is needed is accidentally having the lead still in the socket for current and than trying to measure the mains voltage.

Anyway such a cheap meter is usually only good for cat II at best, that is at an household outlet with no extra high fuse rating and not within some 20 feet of the fuse panel. Too close to the fuse panel, with short wires it happens that the mains fuses (e.g. rated for some 10 kA brake capability) fail. I have seen such a case at university - even normal 3x1.5 mm² cable changed color and finally the 3 rd fuse at some 63 A rating stopped the current.

[tkamiya]

I come from days when fuses aren't part of multi-meters.  We somehow survived.  Obviously, one has to take precautions and know what he/she is doing.

If I had a multi-meter which only thing wrong is a fuse, I'll just stick in something or even jumper it and throw it in my car to carry around.  I think we tend to be overly cautious and rely on regulations too much to save us from ourselves.  (and forget the basics)

For anything that matters, those inexpensive meters won't do.  Properly rated and guaranteed ones are the only way to go.  You know, just in case something unexpected happens.  This is coming from someone who has seen industrial accidents.  (a limb was lost in that one)

[tkamiya]

How much do you guys trust UL, CE, ETL, and other certification markings on stuff?  The way things are going in low end of the market, I would think it's too easy and tempting to just put them on and hope no one will ever look it up.  I actually had an occasion to contact UL to see what it would take to get their certifications.  I forgot the exact number but it was way beyond reasonable for things we were going to sell.  So the whole project was scrapped.

[floobydust]

North America has a problem letting in imported goods that have no/fake/inadequate electrical safety approvals. I'm not sure why  it keeps going on. Last I saw was chinese christmas lights that would burn down the house, absolute rubbish. The CE label is being abused, it means nothing unless you have integrity.

With the table was flipped, I could not sell anything to other countries without meeting all of their country-specific standards. It seem to be one-sided trade protection.

These fuses are all crazy overpriced. Fluke DMM 440mA fuse is USD $38 at Digikey or Mouser, 10-20% of the multimeter's price!
For two metal caps, some melamine and a piece of fuse wire and sand. I'd like to make them at home and earn more money than engineers lol.
Yes the fuse's regulatory approvals are very expensive. UL is known as the best and also the most expensive- so people are moving to Intertek and other agencies. Fuse manufacturers can do their own in-house testing and approvals if they are big enough, so it does not cost them near as much.
But there is no justification for the price-gouging happening with fuses. It's created a huge counterfeit market.

[macboy]

Don't replace the fuse at all. Just leave the socket empty, and use this as a voltage-only meter. Buy the replacement meter and use it for current readings. You will frequently wish you had multiple meters, to measure (e.g.) voltage and current at the same time. You will rarely need to measure two mA range currents at the same time.

By not replacing the fuse at all, you significantly improve the safety of the meter compared to using an improper unsafe fuse. Imagine the consequences of forgetting to move the leads from the mA socket to V socket before measuring 240 V...  With no fuse, there is no current path and little danger. With a glass fuse, who knows.  Ian.M painted an ugly picture of a worst-case scenario.

[DW1961]

Don't replace the fuse at all. Just leave the socket empty, and use this as a voltage-only meter. Buy the replacement meter and use it for current readings. You will frequently wish you had multiple meters, to measure (e.g.) voltage and current at the same time. You will rarely need to measure two mA range currents at the same time.

By not replacing the fuse at all, you significantly improve the safety of the meter compared to using an improper unsafe fuse. Imagine the consequences of forgetting to move the leads from the mA socket to V socket before measuring 240 V...  With no fuse, there is no current path and little danger. With a glass fuse, who knows.  Ian.M painted an ugly picture of a worst-case scenario.

The 10Amp fuse for current still works fine too. I just blew the 200mA side. I can still get a .2 or .1 mA reading from the 10 Amp side. That's good enough for what I mainly do.

[floobydust]

I would feel the pain, and just replace the fuse to keep the multimeter as it was.
The fuse is also in Klein Tools multimeters, the website map lists distributors. I would call some electrical supply houses and ask what they have for multimeter fuses, as they always sell Klein Tools.

[rsjsouza]

I have meters where I blew the low range fuse accidentally and replaced them with the glass equivalent (if the meter is cheap), do not replace it at all (when it is tiny and hard to find, such as the Richmeters RM102Pro) or with the real deal (when the meter is worth its salt). Before the rain of criticisms against the use of glass fuses, I am also from the same time as Ian (and others) above: glass or no fuse measuring 220VAC @2~5A and the meter was so damn expensive (and your only one) that you WILL pay attention to what you are doing or you will eat only flies and Noodles for a year until you get enough money to replace it.

[Ground_Loop]

I have meters where I blew the low range fuse accidentally and replaced them with the glass equivalent (if the meter is cheap), do not replace it at all (when it is tiny and hard to find, such as the Richmeters RM102Pro) or with the real deal (when the meter is worth its salt). Before the rain of criticisms against the use of glass fuses, I am also from the same time as Ian (and others) above: glass or no fuse measuring 220VAC @2~5A and the meter was so damn expensive (and your only one) that you WILL pay attention to what you are doing or you will eat only flies and Noodles for a year until you get enough money to replace it.

Exactly,  The safety ninnies on here act like a glass fuse in a meter will be instant death.