Electronics > Repair
Xantrex/Sorensen XHR 40-25 schematic?
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edpalmer42:

--- Quote from: Chris56000 on November 18, 2023, 03:52:08 pm --- K04BB are taking a hell of a long time to sort out the manuals from their "Recent Uploads" directory – some of the files in there haven't been made available for download in over two months!

Chris Williams

--- End quote ---

Remember that KO4BB isn't a group or a company.  It's a guy who pays for the storage space and bandwidth on his own and maintains the system in his spare time when the rest of his life allows it.  All things considered, I think he's doing a great job!

By the way, when did you last send a donation to help him cover his costs?  I sent him $50 a while back and he seemed very grateful.  Makes me wonder if that was an unusual occurance.

Ed
armandine2:
If you don't want a scan, another link, worked for me - manuals - but no schematics

https://www.programmablepower.com/

https://www.programmablepower.com/products/dc-bench-power/xhr-series



[edited to manufacturer's links]



coppercone2:
lol check those sockets my sorensen (30V30A) had a bad socket on a op amp , even after I resocket it and clean the chip out etc.

nonsense happens until you push on the chip then it worked fine. if just wanna try some random whatever replace those socket
put some berylium copper or bronze pin sockets in there

i wonder if it could be because they got bus bar and big heat sinks like on the PCB

you can also disconnect the limiter circuitry totally (trimpot stuff) by disconnecting a resistor maybe. it should work fine. gets rid of that variable


as usual check the rails on the IC first before you start messing with the high current portion. I also took mine apart and cleaned/greased  the bus bars and bolts etc with deoxit grease or liquid depending on ease

but If I had to do another sorsensen switcher, I would literarly replace all the sockets before working on anything else, and I would not bother trying to test the socket (probobly lies when you probe it, mine did)... the whole thing with the probe on the bottom of the leg or under the PCB and a probe on the chip to measure continuity is BS for dodgy sockets that is not reliable troubleshooting IMO. i know there is some socket master voodoo priests in old computer repair but just IMO fucking replace that BS its not worth trying to analyze, you aint trying to preserve the vintage of some atari lol

here, take this

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/sockets-for-ics-transistors/ic-sockets/409?s=N4IgjCBcoGwJxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIALGGABxwDsIAuoQA4AuUIAyuwE4BLAHYBzEAF9CtAMyIQKSBhwFiZENOlwwAJkaENW7duZtOkHv2FjJIAKx05CpXkIlI5CgAZbnz8ZYgHFy8gqISUhqejmhYLqrulNT02hQg%2BjQ09GAI6TS22jRp6hkU%2BSaBZhah1lL0WtGKsSpu5NI%2BdTBFXgXSEFLlQeYhVuHgdbLQ8jHKrmq9cBRZRdI0MLYUCAGDVSM2YHWMk05Nswnzi33FaxsDlcNhNgC0xkdQ-ACuzWq2zOI2P5NWFAwGwgZAfDZOpMBAATLhgSJFbb3MSEdgAT1YuC4MOwKD%2BQA
ifonlyeverything:
Cleaned up the PCB a bit, didn't see any blown FETs, PCB scorch marks, or blown fuses. Need to get a light bulb limiter set up before I start investigating the power electronics further, and I think I want to test the control board separate since it's low voltage stuff (or just build an op amp test jig since it's all socket mount.) coppercone2 I'll be sure to focus on the sockets, some of them do look a little janky. Also managed to drop a fucking screw between that output capacitor clusterfuck, so I had to pull a few caps off to get the screw out -- needle nose pliers just jammed it in deeper. Might as well replace the output caps while I'm at it.  :palm:

In the meantime I'm still studying the schematic, trying to understand how it all works. I noticed the marketing material claims ZVS. Is this actually ZVS/soft switching? I'm no SMPS expert but the full bridge IC is just an SG3524 and I'm not seeing any evidence of any sort of ZVS detection circuitry... unless I'm missing something obvious?
coppercone2:
what was the problem with it to begin with? Not really sure how they work too well. I kinda figured out the feedback loop and figured where the fault might be.

but... power rails ok?

and my socket looked fine, it even removed OK, its just messed up. those socket suck because they are the 2 leaf things not the little hole

but you got a much harder supply because its 1kV. Mine is 30V. Anything over like 100 volts makes it mad complicated. 1kv exceedingly so. new failure modes for parts.  Even resistors can do that shit where they start failing at a high voltage like 750 volts.

Also mine had a mains connector that was not soldered in! it was press fit in for most of its life with almost no solder on the pin. It started arcing on me after I fixed the unit, luckily all it needed was a dash of solder. Sorensen QC must have had a bad day. I had enough HV shit since I fixed the miller dynasty welding machine (it has like 800V rail). Weird shit was going on there, far away insignificant looking components like ceramic caps causing problems.

Honestly the way to test this would be to desolder each part, bias it with HV supply, make sure its OK.. anything on the HV rail IMO can be really suspect but I don't have much experiance with that.
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