Author Topic: XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V  (Read 2223 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Online fzabkar

  • Frequent Contributor
  • **
  • Posts: 472
  • Country: au
Re: XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V
« Reply #50 on: December 02, 2019, 04:32:37 am »
I'm stumped. Sorry. :-(
 

Offline LiftedTrace

  • Regular Contributor
  • *
  • Posts: 52
  • Country: us
Re: XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V
« Reply #51 on: December 02, 2019, 04:42:14 am »
I guess that means it’s time to open my Xbox for comparison  :-BROKE
 

Online fzabkar

  • Frequent Contributor
  • **
  • Posts: 472
  • Country: au
Re: XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V
« Reply #52 on: December 02, 2019, 04:49:08 am »
I'm just parking my rough notes here. Maybe someone will be able to fill in the missing info.


X861949-007, Microsoft XBOX ONE ASIC, I/O Controller Hub, southbridge:

X949211-001, AMD, CPU/GPU:


USB 2.0 filter (U3F2), markings KR + 82 (cursive, 82 = date code?), DFN-6, probably equivalent to ...

PESD5V0U5BF / PESD5V0U5BV, NXP, Ultra low capacitance bidirectional fivefold ESD protection array, 1.9pF, 5V reverse standoff, marking B2 / G7, SOT886 / SOT666:
https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PESD5V0U5BF_PESD5V0U5BV.pdf


THGBMFG6C1LBAIL, Toshiba, eMMC NAND Flash, 8GB, 1 x 64Gbit, 3.3V / 1.8V, BGA-153:
https://www.es.co.th/Schemetic/PDF/THGBMFG6C1LBAIL.PDF

from Xbox One S teardown:
https://de.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+One+S+Teardown/65572


RT8111HM, Realtek, Ethernet controller, single port, Gigabit LAN, PCI Express, QFN-32:

Similar chips with higher pin count?

https://www.recomb-omsk.ru/published/SC/html/scripts/doc/A01-RTL8111EVL-F(RTL8111E-VL-CG_Datasheet_1%201.pdf (RTL8111E, QFN-48)
bothhand.info/pdf/spec-8111b%28140%29.pdf (RTL8111B-GR, QFN-48)


Diodes Inc ?, Schottky rectifier, marking 5X, SOD123


NTMFS4C50NT3G / NTMFS4C50NT1G, ON Semiconductor, MOSFET N-CH, 30V, 46A, marking 4C50, SO8FL:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-semiconductor/NTMFS4C50NT3G/NTMFS4C50NT3G-ND/4848828
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-semiconductor/NTMFS4C50NT1G/NTMFS4C50NT1G-ND/4848827


U7B2, marking PWD + yww, STMicroelectronics, BGA, EEPROM, HDMI EDID + CEC
U8B1, marking PXD + yww, STMicroelectronics, BGA, EEPROM, HDMI EDID + CEC


photo of U6U1, marking 8104SY1 + 1612 + 26082460  -> compared with 8104SY1 + 1814 + 28053010

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3387811.html#gallery-4


U5F5, markings 3A + 5F + C02, DFN-10, step-down converter (3A + FF + Q3W markings in Xbox One teardown)


Parts ID:
https://cdn.ihs.com/www/blog/consoleunder.png



https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3387811.html

Quote
On my XBOX One S, the 8-pin IC U4D4 has the marking IAEBG. It is TSOT23-8 package.

"AEB" is the product code for part number MP2161GJ from MonolithicPower.

MP2161GJ, Monolithic Power, Synchronous Step Down Switcher, 2A, 2.5V - 6Vin, 1.5MHz, 17uA IQ, marking AEBy, TSOT23-8:
https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/documentview/productdocument/index/version/2/document_type/Datasheet/lang/en/sku/MP2161/document_id/450
« Last Edit: December 02, 2019, 06:42:05 am by fzabkar »
 

Offline LiftedTrace

  • Regular Contributor
  • *
  • Posts: 52
  • Country: us
Re: XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V
« Reply #53 on: December 06, 2019, 02:53:34 pm »
So I have a little more info but I don’t know what it means.
My gut tells me there is something wrong in the area of U5D2 and U5D3.

I took my Xbox apart for reference and what I found was strange at the two diodes labeled D5D1 & D5D2
D5D2, Ohms reading, positive on anode, negative on cathode = 300
D5D2, Ohms reading, negative  on anode, positive on cathode = 10kish

D5D1, Ohms reading, positive on anode, negative on cathode = 300
D5D1, Ohms reading, negative  on anode, positive on cathode = 10kish
These are for the good working Xbox.

What I get for the broken one is.
D5D2, Ohms reading, positive on anode, negative on cathode = 260
D5D2, Ohms reading, negative  on anode, positive on cathode = (Fuke 115 meter “flashes” OL)
Manually setting range I get a value around 2.5k
It seems to mess up the auto range (confusing)
Same result for D5D1


Do you know what would cause the meters auto detect to freak out and flash OL. It was not steady like a normal open, but flashed. I don’t know what means. Best I could guess is a cap somewhere was charging and discharging quickly?

Anyways, it’s not normal to the working box, so I think what ever is causing this issue and the low ohms readings on across these diodes might be a step in the right direction. 

EDIT 1:
Well, I have managed to fix the thing. While waiting for a response here from my last post, I decided to go thru the back side of the board and replace the nasty looking caps, and wouldn't you know it, the thing booted up, lol.
I guess thats a lesson learned that something on the opposite side of the board can effect another area which seems totally unrelated.

But its up and working  :box:  :box: Feels good to fix it.  ^-^
« Last Edit: December 06, 2019, 07:45:31 pm by LiftedTrace »
 

Online fzabkar

  • Frequent Contributor
  • **
  • Posts: 472
  • Country: au
Re: XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V
« Reply #54 on: December 08, 2019, 03:38:34 am »
Congratulations!
 

Offline ijaved

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 1
  • Country: us
Re: XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V
« Reply #55 on: December 10, 2019, 08:44:37 pm »
Wow very encouraging post. I have one dead xbox one s sitting with me which I have to fix. I will definitely use this post to get pointers.

Do you have picture of the back on which area the cap went bad?
 

Online fzabkar

  • Frequent Contributor
  • **
  • Posts: 472
  • Country: au
Re: XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V
« Reply #56 on: December 11, 2019, 01:54:11 am »
ICBW, but I think the OP was referring to the capacitors in the GFXcore and CPUcore sections. I thought that the measured resistance of 3 ohms seemed on the low side, but then the GPU and CPU draw tens of amps when running, so I dismissed it. In any case it would be interesting to know how the capacitors measured out of circuit. It would also help to know the normal resistance of the GFXcore and CPUcore loads on a working board.
 

Offline LiftedTrace

  • Regular Contributor
  • *
  • Posts: 52
  • Country: us
Re: XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V
« Reply #57 on: December 11, 2019, 03:53:56 am »
Yeah, so on page one there is one of the posts has a pic of the back of the board. I thought I posted a higher res pic but can’t find the link. 
Basically, these are what I replaced.
C1R10 / 11
C1T1 / 2
C1U2
C1U1( Already gone on a known good working Xbox, left it missing)
C1U3 / 4

I also had a strange issue with the RC section for the 3.3v area.
I replaced
R6P16
C6P13

The board is laid out in a nice grid format to locate these components as stated in one of the earlier posts.
These are all on the bottom of the board where the water damage was.

As for the caps in the GFxcore and CPU core sections, the large cans, I never touched them. It was only the small ceramic caps on the bottom I replaced.
Sadly I was so excited to see it draw a few amps and stay on and jumped the gun and put it all back together and started the updates.
I wish I would have taken measurements from it when I had the caps and stuff off not causing issues to see what normal was. I wasn’t ready to start taking my known working one apart  :-DD

Also, being water damage, it seems to have completely eaten away the solder on the caps and the board leaving a ugly connection if any exists any more.
A few of them I had to scrape the nasty away and then scrape some of the trace cover away to expose good copper so I could solder to that. You might have to get creative depending on how corroded they might be.
You can remove one of the caps off the top of the board in that section for the 8 I replaced. They are all in parallel. Two on top and two on the bottom, except for that one that seems to be deliberately missing one on the bottom. I forget the value, but I found donors from a old laptop mother board power supply section.

The one I got of eBay had the same section messed up and they looked the same. Maybe the water pools up in that corner.
Also the one I got from eBay had such bad damage it was beyond my repair. When looking closely at the ram chips at just the right angle(and my tongue also at just the right angle) I was able to see water damage under the ram chips. It was at the point I called it quits and resold it on eBay. I don’t have the means to remove large chips like that.

Best of luck.
Anything I can do to help, just post. 

Also, as a reference, the one I repaired, just beeped on startup.
I had no fan or anything. It did a three rising tone beep and immediately shut off.
My working Xbox was drawing only 9ma on standby where the broken was drawing around 40ma.
Hope this helps.
« Last Edit: December 11, 2019, 04:04:07 am by LiftedTrace »
 

Online fzabkar

  • Frequent Contributor
  • **
  • Posts: 472
  • Country: au
Re: XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V
« Reply #58 on: December 11, 2019, 10:33:41 pm »
I have one dead xbox one s sitting with me which I have to fix.
Would you mind filling in the missing voltages?

Also, if any of your ICs differ from the OP's, would you mind posting their markings so that we can identify them and update the BOM?
 


Share me

Digg  Facebook  SlashDot  Delicious  Technorati  Twitter  Google  Yahoo
Smf