XBox One S - No Power On - Missing 3.3V

[fzabkar]

I'm stumped. Sorry. :-(

[LiftedTrace]

I guess that means it’s time to open my Xbox for comparison 

[fzabkar]

I'm just parking my rough notes here. Maybe someone will be able to fill in the missing info.


X861949-007, Microsoft XBOX ONE ASIC, I/O Controller Hub, southbridge:

X949211-001, AMD, CPU/GPU:


USB 2.0 filter (U3F2), markings KR + 82 (cursive, 82 = date code?), DFN-6, probably equivalent to ...

PESD5V0U5BF / PESD5V0U5BV, NXP, Ultra low capacitance bidirectional fivefold ESD protection array, 1.9pF, 5V reverse standoff, marking B2 / G7, SOT886 / SOT666:
https://assets.nexperia.com/documents/data-sheet/PESD5V0U5BF_PESD5V0U5BV.pdf


THGBMFG6C1LBAIL, Toshiba, eMMC NAND Flash, 8GB, 1 x 64Gbit, 3.3V / 1.8V, BGA-153:
https://www.es.co.th/Schemetic/PDF/THGBMFG6C1LBAIL.PDF

from Xbox One S teardown:
https://de.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+One+S+Teardown/65572


RT8111HM, Realtek, Ethernet controller, single port, Gigabit LAN, PCI Express, QFN-32:

Similar chips with higher pin count?

https://www.recomb-omsk.ru/published/SC/html/scripts/doc/A01-RTL8111EVL-F(RTL8111E-VL-CG_Datasheet_1%201.pdf (RTL8111E, QFN-48)
bothhand.info/pdf/spec-8111b%28140%29.pdf (RTL8111B-GR, QFN-48)


Diodes Inc ?, Schottky rectifier, marking 5X, SOD123


NTMFS4C50NT3G / NTMFS4C50NT1G, ON Semiconductor, MOSFET N-CH, 30V, 46A, marking 4C50, SO8FL:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-semiconductor/NTMFS4C50NT3G/NTMFS4C50NT3G-ND/4848828
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-semiconductor/NTMFS4C50NT1G/NTMFS4C50NT1G-ND/4848827


U7B2, marking PWD + yww, STMicroelectronics, BGA, EEPROM, HDMI EDID + CEC
U8B1, marking PXD + yww, STMicroelectronics, BGA, EEPROM, HDMI EDID + CEC


photo of U6U1, marking 8104SY1 + 1612 + 26082460  -> compared with 8104SY1 + 1814 + 28053010

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3387811.html#gallery-4


U5F5, markings 3A + 5F + C02, DFN-10, step-down converter (3A + FF + Q3W markings in Xbox One teardown)


Parts ID:
https://cdn.ihs.com/www/blog/consoleunder.png



https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3387811.html

On my XBOX One S, the 8-pin IC U4D4 has the marking IAEBG. It is TSOT23-8 package.

"AEB" is the product code for part number MP2161GJ from MonolithicPower.

MP2161GJ, Monolithic Power, Synchronous Step Down Switcher, 2A, 2.5V - 6Vin, 1.5MHz, 17uA IQ, marking AEBy, TSOT23-8:
https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/documentview/productdocument/index/version/2/document_type/Datasheet/lang/en/sku/MP2161/document_id/450

[LiftedTrace]

So I have a little more info but I don’t know what it means.
My gut tells me there is something wrong in the area of U5D2 and U5D3.

I took my Xbox apart for reference and what I found was strange at the two diodes labeled D5D1 & D5D2
D5D2, Ohms reading, positive on anode, negative on cathode = 300
D5D2, Ohms reading, negative  on anode, positive on cathode = 10kish

D5D1, Ohms reading, positive on anode, negative on cathode = 300
D5D1, Ohms reading, negative  on anode, positive on cathode = 10kish
These are for the good working Xbox.

What I get for the broken one is.
D5D2, Ohms reading, positive on anode, negative on cathode = 260
D5D2, Ohms reading, negative  on anode, positive on cathode = (Fuke 115 meter “flashes” OL)
Manually setting range I get a value around 2.5k
It seems to mess up the auto range (confusing)
Same result for D5D1


Do you know what would cause the meters auto detect to freak out and flash OL. It was not steady like a normal open, but flashed. I don’t know what means. Best I could guess is a cap somewhere was charging and discharging quickly?

Anyways, it’s not normal to the working box, so I think what ever is causing this issue and the low ohms readings on across these diodes might be a step in the right direction. 

EDIT 1:
Well, I have managed to fix the thing. While waiting for a response here from my last post, I decided to go thru the back side of the board and replace the nasty looking caps, and wouldn't you know it, the thing booted up, lol.
I guess thats a lesson learned that something on the opposite side of the board can effect another area which seems totally unrelated.

But its up and working    Feels good to fix it. 

[fzabkar]

Congratulations!

[ijaved]

Wow very encouraging post. I have one dead xbox one s sitting with me which I have to fix. I will definitely use this post to get pointers.

Do you have picture of the back on which area the cap went bad?

[fzabkar]

ICBW, but I think the OP was referring to the capacitors in the GFXcore and CPUcore sections. I thought that the measured resistance of 3 ohms seemed on the low side, but then the GPU and CPU draw tens of amps when running, so I dismissed it. In any case it would be interesting to know how the capacitors measured out of circuit. It would also help to know the normal resistance of the GFXcore and CPUcore loads on a working board.

[LiftedTrace]

Yeah, so on page one there is one of the posts has a pic of the back of the board. I thought I posted a higher res pic but can’t find the link. 
Basically, these are what I replaced.
C1R10 / 11
C1T1 / 2
C1U2
C1U1( Already gone on a known good working Xbox, left it missing)
C1U3 / 4

I also had a strange issue with the RC section for the 3.3v area.
I replaced
R6P16
C6P13

The board is laid out in a nice grid format to locate these components as stated in one of the earlier posts.
These are all on the bottom of the board where the water damage was.

As for the caps in the GFxcore and CPU core sections, the large cans, I never touched them. It was only the small ceramic caps on the bottom I replaced.
Sadly I was so excited to see it draw a few amps and stay on and jumped the gun and put it all back together and started the updates.
I wish I would have taken measurements from it when I had the caps and stuff off not causing issues to see what normal was. I wasn’t ready to start taking my known working one apart 

Also, being water damage, it seems to have completely eaten away the solder on the caps and the board leaving a ugly connection if any exists any more.
A few of them I had to scrape the nasty away and then scrape some of the trace cover away to expose good copper so I could solder to that. You might have to get creative depending on how corroded they might be.
You can remove one of the caps off the top of the board in that section for the 8 I replaced. They are all in parallel. Two on top and two on the bottom, except for that one that seems to be deliberately missing one on the bottom. I forget the value, but I found donors from a old laptop mother board power supply section.

The one I got of eBay had the same section messed up and they looked the same. Maybe the water pools up in that corner.
Also the one I got from eBay had such bad damage it was beyond my repair. When looking closely at the ram chips at just the right angle(and my tongue also at just the right angle) I was able to see water damage under the ram chips. It was at the point I called it quits and resold it on eBay. I don’t have the means to remove large chips like that.

Best of luck.
Anything I can do to help, just post. 

Also, as a reference, the one I repaired, just beeped on startup.
I had no fan or anything. It did a three rising tone beep and immediately shut off.
My working Xbox was drawing only 9ma on standby where the broken was drawing around 40ma.
Hope this helps.

[fzabkar]

I have one dead xbox one s sitting with me which I have to fix.

Would you mind filling in the missing voltages?

Also, if any of your ICs differ from the OP's, would you mind posting their markings so that we can identify them and update the BOM?

[Eli]

Good day my xbox one s won't turn on
upon searching the net i found this thread, i did test all the test point
and my 5v TP4D2 test point is deadshort to ground also the 3.3v testpoint doesn't have a voltage
but is not short, hope someone could answer
thanks..

[LiftedTrace]

Did it just stop working one day, or did you spill something on it, etc. I came across a non working xbox that had a short inside the board at a connector. I had to dig the trace out until there was no more short and then run a wire to where it went. Still never got it working on that xbox. My point is the show is not always as easy as a component shorted.

I am no expert and I do what I have seen others do on YT with finding shorts, using a current limit power supply and feel around for whats getting hot. I don't know of any other way to find them. I know some here will say that is not a good method of finding shorts too, so I leave it up to you to decide. The way I seen it, it wasn't working, so I had no worries of breaking it.

[seintohackers]

Hi!!
somebody have any info about U5D4 ic, datasheet or something to replace whit similar component please

pin 1.- 5v Enable(when push poweron button)
pin 2.- ground
pin 3.- 5v IN (from 5v standby voltage)
pin 4.- 3.3v OUT (Testpoint TP5D1)
pin 5.- No Conection
pin 6.- 3.3v feedback to U5D4
va6xf
va7ba
va7ne

thanks!

[seintohackers]

in this zone D
check diodes D3D1, D3D2
and transistors U3D6 Q3D5
IC U4D4
Testpoint TP4D5 1.1v standby and TP4D4 1.8v standby

this zone send the voltage to U4C2 to enable that IC and create the 3.3v output Testpoint TP4D1
Your u4c2 needs to have Vin and VEnable to create V output

[fzabkar]

U5D4 appears to be an adjustable LDO regulator. Could you tell us the voltage at the feedback pin, ie 0.6V, 0.8V?

"VA" appears to be the part code, while "6" and "7" appear to be the year of manufacture.

[seintohackers]

yes is LDO regulator, the feedback pin drops 0.8v because in the output pin drops 0.8, is not short to ground
the LDO is just damage i test in diode mode and i have normal voltage drop signal 0.4mV and i cant find the datasheet to replace, thanks

[damanloox]

had similar issue (ie. dead board - no sign of life, 12v OK everywhere, 5V OK everywhere and no 3v)... Spent a few hours trying to find the problem and almost gave up but decided to replace IC U4D4 as a last attempt to save the board and... success. 3.3v suddenly appeared and the console works without any issues.

[kszyh0]

Has anybody found the U5D4 component. Struggling to replace this one. I went through ST offered LDOs as well as most of ONSEMI but none of them seems to be matching the pinout of this chip.
Any hint highly appreciated.

Is pin 6 really a PG pin (Power good, feedback) or ADJ pin (Vout setting)?

[seintohackers]

The brand is Foster model FST6472

pin 1.- 5v Enable(when push poweron button)
pin 2.- ground
pin 3.- 5v IN (from 5v standby voltage)
pin 4.- 3.3v OUT (Testpoint TP5D1)
pin 5.- No Conection
pin 6.- 3.3v feedback to U5D4

[fzabkar]

The brand is Foster model FST6472

It looks like the feedback reference voltage is indeed 0.8V. It surprises me that MS would use a chip that doesn't appear in Internet searches. :-?

[seintohackers]

its a japanese brand, i contact them, and they send me the datasheet

[gamalot]

its a japanese brand, i contact them, and they send me the datasheet

Kind of weird, the Japanese gave you a Chinese version of the datasheet? 

[seintohackers]

the lenguage of the datasheet is irrelevant, schematic is clear to read and understand

[fzabkar]

The brand is Foster model FST6472

It looks like the feedback reference voltage is indeed 0.8V.

If you take either the 5-pin or 6-pin version of this chip and turn it on its back, the pinout matches ...

https://www.micros.com.pl/mediaserver/ST6212-adjm5r_0001.pdf

The FB voltage is also 0.8V.

I suspect that there may be more popular LDO regulators with the same mirrored pinout. This may be an option if you can't match the original pinout and FB voltage.

Another mirrored pinout (fixed 3.3V 300mA regulator):
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps7a20.pdf

Mirrored pinout, 150mA, 0.8V FB, adjustable:
https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/ldcl015.pdf

[Maxwell55]

I just found this thread and followed the troubleshooting steps. I have all my voltages & standby voltages as well. the only voltages missing are the MEMIO, GFXCORE & CPU CORE. NO shorts found, the only IC that looks suspicious is U9F1 (TPS51916), All caps checked, all mosfets checked. Does anyone know what type of voltage outputs I'm supposed to get out of IC U9F1? Any tests I can do to check if its functional? Any help appreciated. Thanks

[LiftedTrace]

Its been a while since I have had mine open. I forgot about this thread.
I can open mine up and take a few measurements for ya on IC U9F1 when its powered up and working.
Ill post back as soon as I can with the info. Might be a few days.