Xbox One X Power Supply Repair

[Tasman_Setter]

Hi there!
I've got myself an Xbox One X with a faulty power supply, and for better or worse, my goal is to repair the power supply rather than replace it. I have a fair bit of experience repairing PS4 power supplies, however I've never attempted an Xbox one and (unfortunately) I don't have any working units to cross-reference against.
Here's what I know:
 - The unit is not outputting any power at its output (should be 12VDC)
 - The main fuse is not blown
 - There is clean continuity between the Live 240VAC input terminal and the components on the other side of the fuse
 - I read 70VAC across the AC neutral and pin 2 of the high power rectifier (circled in blue in Image 2)
 - The giant electrolytic bus capacitor is not receiving any power - it does not charge at all when the power supply is plugged in

As far as I know, the high power rectifier, and all the MOSFETs I can see are testing fine (ie. no dead shorts that would indicate a bad transistor).
Currently, I suspect the component circled in red in Image 1. As far as I can tell, the red and green circled components are meant to be the same (going off appearance), however the one circled in green reads as a dead short in both directions, whereas the one circled in red is an open circuit in both directions. The red line cut by the yellow in Image 2 shows where this component would pass power through if it was a dead short like the one circled in green.

If anyone has any ideas on what's troubling this power supply, or if you can identify the red/green circled components, I'd be super grateful. Maybe together we can work out this sticky mess of a power supply (seriously, why is there so much white putty Microsoft??).

Cheers!

[keymaster]

The component you circle is spark-gap , i thing . You problem must be the coils(common mode choke ) behind them. Most of the time, the coils snap at the base ,  from a shock or from vibration .

The spark-gap is in parallel with the coil so remove the coil from behind the red circle spark-gap , to see if it is broken .   

[Tasman_Setter]

Thanks heaps! I think you might be on to something there. If the spark gap on the right is reading as a short, I'm probably actually reading the short across the coil. The open circuit on the red circled one does suggest a coil break. I'll remove it today and see if it's the problem.

[Tasman_Setter]

Update:
In scraping away the white glue, I noticed black scorch marks on and around the common mode choke coil pointed out, so I think we've definitely found out the culprit. Guessing there was a short and the wires broke like a fuse.

My issue now is working out what to replace it with. I have very little knowledge when it comes to chokes/coils/inductors in general. This one does have a sticker on it (see image attached), however I really wouldn't have a clue how to interpret it. I've tried typing the number into google but no luck there. If anyone has an idea of what this could be replaced with, that'd be fantastic.

Thanks again!

Edit: Added photos post-choke removal FYI

[daveyk]

I wouldn’t think a common mode Coke is that important. Rob one from another switching supply.  Why did it fail? Maybe it was barely making connection and  sizzled itself from day one? Check the rectifier and caps that come after it

[TheMG]

The wire insulation must have been damaged in manufacturing, and eventually arced through.

It is a common mode choke, the purpose of which is to filter out common-mode RF interference from being conducted out of the power supply onto the AC power line.

The exact value of the choke is not really super important, you can either rob one out of another power supply or find an off-the-shelf common mode choke to substitute for it. The important thing is that it physically fits on the PCB, and that it is able to handle the maximum input current of the power supply.

It certainly isn't going to affect operation of the power supply if it's not an exact match. At worst, the EMC characteristics of the power supply might worsen by a small amount. But it's definitely better to have a choke in there than none at all, so while replacing it with jumpers would make the power supply work just fine, it might also cause it to radiate undesirable radio interference.

[Tasman_Setter]

Thanks heaps for a really informative response there!
I had a look at several switching supplies I have laying around but none of them have a choke that would physically fit. I've ordered some fresh ones, and I'll let you know the outcome once I've installed it.