Well then now the real fun begins...
If you have the schematic this will not be too difficult.
Start at the main power transformer and start working forward checking the voltages on the output of each stage of the power supply.
Most audio receivers of this type have a 2 high voltage and current circuits (usually between 35 and 55 volts positive and negative) for the output transistors in the amplifier section.
Be very careful probing around with the power on as one slip can cause a lot of damage as you have learned!
The rest of the supply circuits are relatively low power. The only exception is the supply for the VFD on the front panel if it has one.
I did not look at the schematic, but most receivers have a standby power circuit and a main drive circuit.
Start with the standby section. It will either by powered by a separate, smaller transformer or possibly a tap off the main transformer. Very few receivers/audio equipment us a switching supply for this.
Either way, you need to verify it is working. Then move to the main power circuits.
You may want to desolder the legs of the output transistors or the amp module(s) if this unit uses that instead.
You can do some quick cheat tests by finding the bridge rectifier(s) (or diode bridges if this uses them instead), disconnect the positive or negative terminal from the rest of the circuit and check the voltages there. That should isolate the power supply from the rest of the circuits and rule everything out from that point back to the plug.
This may not work depending on the design.
Sorry for the non-model-specific info, but I fix lots of consumer audio gear and I rarely use a schematic or service manual. When you break down the sections and think about how they work, they are relatively easy to repair.
It's not like the good ol' days when you spent hours trying to restring a broken or missing dial-string without a diagram!