Yokogawa DL9140L Repair

[Omicron]

I have a dead Yokogawa DL9140L oscilloscope. One of its problems is that a pair of high speed connectors that is used to link 2 PCBs are damaged. I suspect that some previous owner was a little heavy handed in disassembling and re-assembling the device and forced the connectors together slightly misaligned. This caused some of the plastic to break and some contacts to bend. This in turn caused a short circuit between ground and one of the power rails, causing further damage to the connectors due to heat.

See attached images of pristine examples of the connectors. Does anyone recognise these perhaps? The pith is 0.8mm.

[shakalnokturn]

Look for manufacturer logos or names on the original connectors.
Try on Radiospares/Farnell/Digikey/Mouser looking for "board to board" or "mezzanine" connectors filtering with pitch and number of contacts as a minimum.

[DaJMasta]

Look for manufacturer logos or names on the original connectors.

Definitely, and any tiny molded letters in the housing could point to a manufacturer, which generally will only make a few kinds of connectors that look similar.

My first port of call for small pitch, high density, high speed mezzanine connectors would be Samtec, but I don't recognize these as the ones I've seen from them, so there's certainly no guarantee.

[SQ9MT_PL]

And where are the damages on these connectors because you can't see it?

[shakalnokturn]

And where are the damages on these connectors because you can't see it?

See attached images of pristine examples of the connectors..

[Haenk]

I have a feeling of the 3rd kind that this is a Yamaichi part. Yokogawa probably went for the best part available.

[Omicron]

I've found what type they are. They are JAE KX series connectors. One is a KX14-160K5DE and the other is a KX15-160KLNL. The first one is still available at Digi-Key. For the other one I've asked a quote at some Chinese broker that claims to have stock.

Anyone have any tips on desoldering these things? I was thinking on removing as much of the plastic as I can using side cutters so I can get to the leads and then cutting them one by one with a scalpel.

[shakalnokturn]

I'd be afraid of tearing pads while crunching away with side cutters.

I'd definitely try to lower the solder melting point if it's lead-free by mixing it with another type.

I'd remove with hot air using some underside preheat or without hot air make a rectangular heat spreader in 2.5mm² copper wire then drown all the pins in solder heating with 2 irons, one on each row, if available.

Don't go too hot, don't apply force