EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Repair => Topic started by: hashwood on November 17, 2020, 03:33:17 pm
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Hello,
I am new in GPU repair, I work on DSLR and Lenses. But I have multimeter, SMD rework, BGA rework and some electronics experience. I have two boards and I don't know if they have bad GPU, so they are useless.
1st. Zotac mini 1080TI (picture with voltage and impedance on all coils)
(https://i.ibb.co/HHT1r1C/zotac.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HHT1r1C)
GPU was reballed, GPU heats up but not like normal working cards more slower, it shows in device manager, but gives blue screen when installing drivers. What's strange is that all mosfet drivers gets relatively hot: uP1959 . Here is a picture with Thermal camera with the mosfter drivers:
(https://i.ibb.co/1TRGBMw/IMG000006.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1TRGBMw)
2nd: Aorus 1080TI (picture with voltage and impedance on all coils)
(https://i.ibb.co/Wnt7nmx/aorus.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Wnt7nmx)
GPU heats up but very very slow, not showing in device manager. But voltages are ok.
Can someone please help me.
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GPU was reballed,
I think you should do it again.
It's not an easy thing.
In case you like to check what has happened elsewhere you can search Xbox 360 ring of death.
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thanks for your reply. This is my plan. Still it's very strange that the mosfet controllers are heating up like that.
my plan is to take the GPU and put it on Aorus. I discovered a bad connection pin on Aorus gpu. It seems these pascal chips are very bad made....
(https://i.ibb.co/PMjthsZ/gpu.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PMjthsZ)
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thanks for your reply. This is my plan. Still it's very strange that the mosfet controllers are heating up like that.
my plan is to take the GPU and put it on Aorus. I discovered a bad connection pin on Aorus gpu. It seems these pascal chips are very bad made....
It's not a bad connection but consequences of you removing it. BTW reballing GPU is lame and counterproductive unless you have a good reason to do so. You should have first run Nvidia MATS tool and check if RAM is OK and check VRM phases with oscilloscope if you cave any concerns there.
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And AFAIK this GPU is not right. It should be GP-102-K6-A1, not GP-102-K1-A1 with this RAM IC not populated. Also according to compound color around the die, GPU was overheated while soldering or soldered too many times.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/zotac-mini-1080ti-and-aorus-1080-ti/?action=dlattach;attach=1112172;image)
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K1 no memory chip in channel A0 (Low), K2 - B0, K4 - D0, K5 - E0, K6 - F0
Memory channel numbering
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_xtXHi-nNek/maxresdefault.jpg)
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thanks for our reply.
Thanks for your re
I also think this is a problem, I put a K1 chip and removed a K6.
After I replaced P9511P on Zotac, now the chip heats a little faster and after 30 seconds it powers the monitor with black screen.
In MODS 400 I receive segmentation fault. Invalid register 0x1480001
The Aorus chip was not heated by me. I measured connection on pci line, pin 3 and 4 and pin 3 was not connected. After I removed it the same goes on chip (as in the picture).
What should I do now? Should I change the memory on Zotac? or should I put the GPU A1 on Aorus ?
Or the GPU is dead?
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here is report.txt on zotac
=== MEMORY ERRORS BY SUBPARTITION ===
SUBPART READ ERRORS WRITE ERRORS UNKNOWN ERRS
------- ----------- ------------ ------------
FBIOA0 0 0 0
FBIOA1 0 0 0
FBIOB0 0 0 0
FBIOB1 0 0 0
FBIOC0 0 0 0
FBIOC1 0 0 0
FBIOD0 0 0 0
FBIOD1 0 0 0
FBIOE0 0 0 0
FBIOE1 0 0 0
FBIOF0 0 1435776 0
FBIOF1 0 297162 0
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here is report.txt on zotac
No wonder. Since there is no chip where it should be of F0. You need to either replace GPU with a proper one or move a RAM chip and any missing supporting passives. RAM chip on F1 channel likely is faulty or there is some other issue on this channel.
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do you have a picture please with 1080TI, the one you posted is with 1080
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and what supporting passives are you talking about? Zotac mini board is populated on any memory chip, even if it's missing.
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do you have a picture please with 1080TI, the one you posted is with 1080
That's not 1080. But you can see the order, it's the same for any Nvidia graphics card. Counterclockwise A1, A0, B1, B0.... F1, F0. F0 is the missing chip, F1 is the chip next to it.
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and what supporting passives are you talking about? Zotac mini board is populated on any memory chip, even if it's missing.
If there are all of the needed components, including on the opposite side, then you can simply populate the missing chip.
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F1 is bad? or the errors are because F0 is missing ?
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or the errors are because F0 is missing ?
no
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so F1 is bad ?
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so F1 is bad ?
Either bad chip, bad connection or GPU fault on this channel.
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hope that potting F0 will get some video signal...
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now I get this:
=== MEMORY ERRORS BY SUBPARTITION ===
SUBPART READ ERRORS WRITE ERRORS UNKNOWN ERRS
------- ----------- ------------ ------------
FBIOA0 0 0 0
FBIOA1 0 0 0
FBIOB0 0 0 0
FBIOB1 0 0 0
FBIOC0 0 0 0
FBIOC1 0 0 0
FBIOD0 0 0 0
FBIOD1 0 0 0
FBIOE0 0 0 0
FBIOE1 0 0 0
FBIOF0 0 0 0
FBIOF1 0 297215 0
and still no video signal :(
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changed that chip, still
FBIOA0 0 0 0
FBIOA1 0 0 0
FBIOB0 0 0 0
FBIOB1 0 0 0
FBIOC0 0 0 0
FBIOC1 0 0 0
FBIOD0 0 0 0
FBIOD1 0 0 0
FBIOE0 0 0 0
FBIOE1 0 0 0
FBIOF0 0 0 0
FBIOF1 0 297189 0
:(
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Attach a whole document, there is more detailed data.
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OK, I will do that but tomorrow, I left work and the document is there. Thanks for all your help
Does the card work with all 12 memory chips in place? I added F0, but should I take out the other? I left it in place, so Zotac has 12 memory chips in place...
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hello, here are the files
report.txt is before installing F0, then report1.txt is after installing F0, and report2.txt is after replacing F1
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Probably GPU is soldered badly or it's faulty. After RAM replacement the same bits are failing.
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thanks, so I should try reflow or reball again?
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If it's on tin-lead balls, you can try to to wiggle it a little bit when solder melts. If on lead-free reball or replace with a different GPU since heating it additional time to higher temperature is more damaging.
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Tried reflow, it remained the same (I wiggled it). It had leaded balls installed, since I reballed it on Zotac.
Took the GPU down, and noticed two balls that didn't want to stick to the board (picture attached). Near the F1 with problems.
Reballed and put into Aorus, and :)
Thanks for our help. I will use the board, let's see how long it works.
I tried not to go over 195 degrees when soldering, but the balls used SMD rework station, with air. But I measured temperature and I don't think I got over 200.
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is it possible to add DVI connector to non DVI 1080TI,
Add the connector and populate the missing parts.
Anyone did this ?
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is it possible to add DVI connector to non DVI 1080TI,
Add the connector and populate the missing parts.
Anyone did this ?
You need to know what you need to populate. Also what's the point? You can use passive HDMI or DP to DVI adapter.
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I can use the parts from another reference 1080ti that has shorted chip.
The point is that adapters may have problems, the forums are full of cases. Also I don't know if there is an adapter that can be used at 100hz.
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I can use the parts from another reference 1080ti that has shorted chip.
The point is that adapters may have problems, the forums are full of cases.
HDMI to DVI is just 2 connectors wired together. DP to DVI passive contains level shifter IC.
Also I don't know if there is an adapter that can be used at 100hz.
Depends on resolution. Limitation is pixel clock, not refresh rate as such. Single link DVI supports up to 165 MHz pixel clock. You will have issue with passive adapter only if you have an old monitor with 2560x1600 resolution and no built in scaler or 1900x1200 with higher than 60Hz refresh rate, which requires dual link DVI. However I'm not sure if this card has necessary traces for dual link DVI to begin with, quite likely it's crippled. Not to say what what bracket are you going to attach instead of original?
FWIW attaching and adapter has a way more reliable outcome compared to make it work on graphics cart without one. There probably also are some straps needing changes to make it work, besides simply missing parts.
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for QHD resolution you need dual link dvi. I am using an old 27'' Shimian, that has only D-Dvi connector. I don't plan to change it, it has very good contrast.
The bracket from other cards has the same configuration on DP and Hdmi, just an added DVI. Too bad if they remove traces, since the board layout is the same, just connector missing and some passives.
Using a dell bizlink active dp-dual dvi adapter, made me hate this adapter adventure. I also used it on a laptop and it was the same.
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for any crazy guy like me who still use DVI:
be careful that except adding parts that are near video out connectors
you also need to add a 1k resistor that's under GPU chip.
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Any advices please for a 1070TI chip that has it's marking bent upwards. How can it be repaired?
i tried to reball and reflow it again but no luck, it looks the margins are not soldered ok. Is it a technique for this ?
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Do you mean PCB substrate of chip is bent? I did not see such for this GPU as substrate is quite thick. It's more likely that circuit board deforms under heat.