I'm in the US and don't see them come up on eBay very often. When they do, often times they don't have the tube/bulb (or it's bad). Shipping can also be costly, as a lot of them are the large bulk erasers designed for manufacturing facilities and such.
You sometimes see old EEPROM programmers come up, which include erasure drawers, but they always seem to be listed for $500+ and sit for months with no sale. Most require DOS software and parallel ports, which is a no go. They're a bit heavy, too.
I ended up buying one of these cheap units on eBay to erase some EEPROMs for upgrading firmware in old test gear. The build quality is atrocious. Seriously.
The only reason the power cord doesn't pull right out of the case is because they *tied a knot* in it. At least they put a rubber grommet in the hole I guess...
This is how the wires from the lamp (and the mains voltage from the power switch) are attached to the circuit board; no form of strain relief, just soldered directly to protruding leads on the bottom of the board.
The timer is actually fairly well constructed and does seem to work consistently. I thought about replacing it with a 555+Pot+Relay, but, effort...
My unit smelled really bad, that fragrant "gasoline mixed with plastic" aroma that only the highest quality Chinese wares posses. So I took everything out of the case and soaked it in degreasing dish soap and hot water for two hours, then let it air out for a day. Took most of the smell away, so during reassembly I added heat shrink to any exposed solder connections. I also made sure to cable tie the wires coming from the bottom of the board, so they don't flop around and break off. I also added a little handle to the drawer to make it easier to open.
I also added a thin layer of anti-static foam to the bottom of the drawer; just enough to keep the ICs from moving around.
It's not perfect, but for $15 it'll work fine for as often as I'll use it. It beats my old method of erasing PROMs, which was to use my humidifier! (It has a UV lamp that kills germs in the water, after it leaves the tank and before it gets to the filter wick. I'd simply run it without water and tape the PROM right under the bulb. Worked great in a pinch!)