A 3rd hand that actually works!

[rhb]

$10 Aliexpress magnetic indicator holders with alligator clips crimped to round terminal lugs. 

The indicator stands clamp with a single knob so it really stays where you put it.

Have Fun!
Reg

[jpanhalt]

I have been using Noga versions for 40 years.  https://www.noga.com/Products/hold/Holding%20System

$10 is quite a bargain.

[shabaz]

Nice. I've also been using a near-identical solution, I find the "magic arm" helpful since it's easy to quite precisely position with it.

I wish I had seen the $10 option, mine cost a bit more. I used steel offcut as in the photo below (that is available at low cost from various ebay sellers or metal scrap yards perhaps), I think it weighed just under a kilogram. The offcuts often have a small notch that is easy to fill with epoxy if desired. I spray-painted it afterwards, that's not in the photo.

After tapping it with a camera thread (1/4"-20 UNC) then any camera magic arm can be fitted (I used a Smallrig 10" Magic Arm with Super Clamp in the photo below). The photo shows it in use holding a cable temporarily in position while soldering to a connector (the connector is in a cheap alu tool vise).

[rhb]

I have a 6"  Noga with the fine adjustment.  Really nice for the machine shop,  but rather pricey to solder wires.  The 12" version has a Noga equivalent fine adjustment.

I'm planning to use a pair of the 12" arms to hold a light and vacuum pickup on my Chinese Deckel clone from Shars.  So I moved the fine adjustment to one of the 6" ones earlier and will do the other one soon.  Those will get better magnetic bases.

Without the magnets they are less than $7 for the 6" and $10 for the 12".

With minor effort they can be made functionally the equal of the Noga, just not as pretty.  I plan to drill and tap my Clausing lathe and mill to mount several of these for common tasks.  I've just never entirely trusted magnetic mounts.

Helluva deal it you work at it.

Have Fun!
Reg

Edit: I subsequently realized that clamps that attached to the table edge were more stable and convenient as they can be spaced as needed.

[rcjoy]

Here's what I use, with Noga indicator arms.

Heat shrink tubing over the alligator clip jaws help to reduce damage to what's being held.

Noga's copy of Kant-Twist clamps can also be used in place of the alligator clips.

[rhb]

Excellent idea.  Thanks for the tip on the heat shrink.  I plan a number of different holding devices that I can qucikly swap.

Have Fun!
Reg

[GnomeZA]

I recently got:


Before that I had the usual garbage type that I never used.
I've had very good experience with these because they have complete freedom.

They can hold a bit more weight than you'd think, for example it held a Keithley 2000 board (about it's limit I'd say).

Curious how you guys found this type in comparison to the lathe holding block things you guys are using?

Heat shrink tubing over the alligator clip jaws help to reduce damage to what's being held.

I used to do that but found that it didn't work as well as these (4mm kind): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005245742379.html
I bought a 100 of those and now I just keep replacing them as needed if they (accidentally) get melted or get dirty from a lot of flux.

[s54mtb]

I have been using Noga versions for 40 years.  https://www.noga.com/Products/hold/Holding%20System

$10 is quite a bargain.

OT: “noga” in my language means “leg”.

[jpanhalt]

That translation makes sense. 

The problem with flexible arms is springiness that makes fine adjustment difficult.  Locking balls, like used for coolants in machining (attachment), are a little better, but not by much.  I have a home-made holder made with three short sections of them mounted to a steel plate that is OK.

The Noga and other versions are easily adjusted, have minimal spring, and have a fine, screw knob adjustment.

[rhb]

The Noga fine adjustment costs extra.  The Chinese versions  are ~$2, but not as nice.

After buying a Noga I'll never use any other pattern of holder again.  Knowing that after you tighten the knob the position is NOT going to change is priceless.

Have Fun!
Reg

[thm_w]

I wish I had seen the $10 option, mine cost a bit more. I used steel offcut as in the photo below (that is available at low cost from various ebay sellers or metal scrap yards perhaps), I think it weighed just under a kilogram. The offcuts often have a small notch that is easy to fill with epoxy if desired. I spray-painted it afterwards, that's not in the photo.

I don't think its worth the savings IMO, the smallrig arm you used can be had for ~$20 and is of slightly better quality. Hardened steel teeth at the rotating elbow area.

[rhb]

I don't think its worth the savings IMO, the smallrig arm you used can be had for ~$20 and is of slightly better quality. Hardened steel teeth at the rotating elbow area.

Steel teeth?  There are no teeth in a Noga style arm.  Its a pair of cams at the knob pivot and rods that clamp the balls at the ends.  Brilliant design.

There are a huge number of things to do with these at <$10.  Price is very variable.  I plan to mount some in tapped holes on my lathe and mill so I don't have to rely on magnets.

Small Kant-Twist and other options are easily implemented.

Have Fun!
Reg

[thm_w]

I don't think its worth the savings IMO, the smallrig arm you used can be had for ~$20 and is of slightly better quality. Hardened steel teeth at the rotating elbow area.

Steel teeth?  There are no teeth in a Noga style arm.  Its a pair of cams at the knob pivot and rods that clamp the balls at the ends.  Brilliant design.

Yes they use the same design otherwise. Odd they went with that then, seems unnecessary unless you are dealing with very heavy loads.
Maybe I'll try to file one down and see how much it affects the load capacity.

[rhb]

I couldn't find my Noga, but it finally turned up.  Construction is identical to the clones I bought,  Just not as good a finish.  The teeth must be for a rather large holder.

Have Fun!
Reg

[thephil]

Yes – I use the same setup and love it! I found that a while ago in a YouTube video (maybe by the OP?):



That guy also made a few follow-up videos improving on the original setup. One of the improvements was to add thrust bearings to make everything run smoother. Have done that too, and it was worth it.

[rhb]

The bearings look very attractive.  My usual practice has been to position and tighten and loosen and tighten between movements.

I have some UHDP tape I'm going to try.  I just received a bunch of the 150 & 300 mm arms for other projects.

I'm also going to research RC model bearings.

Have Fun!
Reg

[rhb]

I just ordered 12 x 5 x 4.93 mm thrust bearings from Boca Bearings.

https://www.bocabearings.com/products/f5-12-tp-10602

If I counterbore the knob I'll have 1.25 mm sidewalls and the bearings enclosed.

Have Fun!
Reg

[JohanH]

Interesting. I have one of these magnetic stands. Never occurred to me to use it in this way. Have to get another one.

Next step would be to get some clamps or clips that are better than the alligator clips.

Maybe some clamps/clips like these? https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Auxiliary-Soldering-Repairing-Observation/dp/B081Z7N9JP

Adam Savage swears by them: https://youtu.be/uTLwlrk7oF4?si=TNeP7S4xNgB5SyN3&t=143

Edit. Found them here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006175557418.html

Now they are a bit expensive, but maybe something like this could work also? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005478270039.html

[rhb]

These in 1" are the type of clamps you want among others.  I plan to make a variety of clamps that I can quickly switch as needed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09L47W9HS/


Original make & model is Kant Twist KT-401

[thm_w]

That guy also made a few follow-up videos improving on the original setup. One of the improvements was to add thrust bearings to make everything run smoother. Have done that too, and it was worth it.

The Smallrig and clones come with thrust bearings. What he did was add a normal ball bearing, probably fine for this as well. But you can get thrust bearings cheap on aliexpress if you are interested (<$1).

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805478898635.html

[asis]

..very simple....

[rhb]

Please!!!  Provide more details on the clamp.  It look super nice, but I fear the price.

Have Fun!
Reg

[asis]

Hi,

Sometimes you yourself are surprised at what vintage instruments you have in your own stocks and how they organically and simply fit into your current needs.

These jewelry vices were produced in the USSR in the 60s - 70s of the last century and cost 2 rubles 50 kopecks.
https://dzen.ru/a/X-9EadGpBkHKU3Xi?experiment=942752&is_autologin_vk=true

The only thing I found on aliexpress:
Hand Vise for Jewelry
https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005005429885816.html?sku_id=12000033037594071&spm=a2g2w.productlist.search_results.18.16376de6wyZZ6w

You can search on EBAY, but it’s hard for me to judge how it all works.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=Hand+Vise+&_sacat=0&_odkw=Hand+Vise+for+Jewelry&_osacat=0
T
--
The world has collapsed......

[rhb]

Thanks.

Those are really nice, but quite expensive at over $100 from Ukraine on ebay US with shipping.  I wouldn't buy one at that price, but I may well make one.  The Kant Twist copies with a new suite of jaws should do fine.

I plan to drill out the jaw pivots and make a set of interchangeable jaws, e.g. a PCB edge clamp an inch wide that will grip 1/16" of PCB edge and hold it, jaws to hold multiple strands of wire for tinning the ends, etc.  All the stuff alligator clips are bad at.  And some machined metal alligator clips instead of stamped ones.

Have Fun!
Reg

[jpanhalt]

My way of holding wires for tinning is a little simpler:



I keep several clothespins on my bench carved to any shapes I need.  They don't damage insulation either.  The one above is for soldering servo wires to pin headers.