Advice on recovering from a soldering station miss choice :palm:

[techboy]

Hey guys, first time poster, long time lurker. I do run a Macbook and Laptop repair business in Adelaide, where I work mostly on 0201, 0402 size SMD components. So having tweezers is a must these days as these buggers fly.

I need advice, or maybe help with a project which I started and went sideways . Its the UniSolder project https://github.com/valerionew/unisolder-notes. 

I have committed to the project and built the case at the peak of the chip shortage, and paid more than I should for the components. Probably spent almost 1K$ on chips, parts, genuine cartirdges and handles.



My goal was to build NASE-2C like station which supports nanotweezers, but would be also compatible with 210 and 245 handpieces and other cross-station handles.

My dreams went down the drain after long troubleshooting (my knowledge of mV opamps is limited), resoldering all components multiple times, and replacing multiple chips one more time. We tried to troubleshoot it in the Dangerous prototypes forum but haven't reached much progress in the past year http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=298647.
I am definitely doing something wrong, so went and resoldered all the components from the front board into another board by checking values and orientations one more time with no avail.

Now I need to make a choice. As it's been over a year, I am sitting here with AN115 nanotweezer, NT115 handle, a range of C115 cartridges and looking at this failed project.

Heartbroken decided to move on and choose one of these two:

2,6k$ JBC NANE-2C Nano Rework Station 2NT https://www.oritech.com.au/jbc-nane-2c-nano-rework-station-2nt-230v.html


This will give me 2 extra soldering NT115 handles which I can try to sell and recoup some of my loss.
But will not allow me to use 210 or 245 handles as they are not cross-compatible.
The station is sexy, and fancy and saves lots of space on my bench with hanging tools, but I will still need to keep using my awful T12 replica for generic soldering jobs.


3K$ JBC DDE 2 Tools Precision Rework Station https://www.oritech.com.au/jbc-dde-2-tools-precision-rework-station.html

This will allow me to use a wider range of tips, and micro tweezers 210, 245 series are not that big compared to nanotweezers with the smallest tip in use. And should be able to work on 201 size too.

For another 1K$ I can choose a DMSE with 4 ports to run 4 tools without swapping them. https://www.oritech.com.au/jbc-dmse-digital-solder-desolder-rework-station.html
But have a look how much space these takes    , I could had them hanging on Unisolder with some sleep modification, and they all could have been (cheaper) different brands 

I probably need an extra 400$ on cartridges, as 50$ per piece.

I can try to sell these, but it's a limited sector so not sure if anybody will need them:
Nano Handle: NT115
Nano Tweezers: AN115
Cartridges: C115101 x1 - C115103 x1 - C115105 x2 - C115107 x1 - C115112 x1 - C115113 x2.

[thm_w]

Yeah I feel bad for anyone sucked into the unisolder universe. I still see people on youtube comments asking SDG to buy the kit and build it up.
I get the concept, its a great concept, but the end result is just insanely overcomplicated and expensive for what it needs to do. Its more like a soldering iron dev kit.

If you just want to get off the ground, you could get the Aixun or other JBC clone, and use your tips. Some of them use the official handle and connector, some don't, but they come with a handle anyway so... could sell or keep as spares.

Then there is stuff like Aifen A3 and A9 which support C115 handle.
Or Aifen A902 which has dual outputs: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804329501171.html

Please research more, I don't know what the limitations are on these with C115. Other than that for sure you won't get tweezer support. So either, leave that off for now, and just use hot air. Maybe down the road you can fix the unisolder and get it working with tweezers, or build your own design instead.

[exe]

Sorry to hear it didn't work out with unisolder. Quickly checking that Dangerous prototypes thread, it seems quite some effort was spent, yet it didn't work reliably. I hope your next soldering station will work smoothly, and you'll forget your 5.2 as a nightmare.

PS I use Aixun T3a and I'm quite happy about it (though didn't try to solder anything serious and yet to buy genuine jbc cartridges).

PPS just in case, did you clean your Unisolder board from flux?

[techboy]

Sorry to hear it didn't work out with unisolder. Quickly checking that Dangerous prototypes thread, it seems quite some effort was spent, yet it didn't work reliably. I hope your next soldering station will work smoothly, and you'll forget your 5.2 as a nightmare.

PS I use Aixun T3a and I'm quite happy about it (though didn't try to solder anything serious and yet to buy genuine jbc cartridges).

PPS just in case, did you clean your Unisolder board from flux?

Thanks yes it  was a nightmare, and yes resolder all onto a new board and cleaned it well. I don't know whet else to check there anymore.

BTW have you test nano or microtweezers on Aixun T3?

Yeah I feel bad for anyone sucked into the unisolder universe. I still see people on youtube comments asking SDG to buy the kit and build it up.
I get the concept, its a great concept, but the end result is just insanely overcomplicated and expensive for what it needs to do. Its more like a soldering iron dev kit.

If you just want to get off the ground, you could get the Aixun or other JBC clone, and use your tips. Some of them use the official handle and connector, some don't, but they come with a handle anyway so... could sell or keep as spares.

Then there is stuff like Aifen A3 and A9 which support C115 handle.
Or Aifen A902 which has dual outputs: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804329501171.html

Please research more, I don't know what the limitations are on these with C115. Other than that for sure you won't get tweezer support. So either, leave that off for now, and just use hot air. Maybe down the road you can fix the unisolder and get it working with tweezers, or build your own design instead.

Seems like Aifen is a spinoff or Seugon, was just looking at these stations and asked the supplier if they support microtweezers, but to don't think they do. They would need a two heater runners per cord. Also not sure if the connection is same. Although they say its a same cartridge.

When I spoke with JBC distributor he was solid that nano and Micro/Normal handles and cartridges are not cross compatible due to power requirements.

[thm_w]

Yes as I said, they don't support tweezers, they don't have the two heater outputs. JBC also wired in a very odd way which makes it more difficult to switch between the two.
If I were DIYing it, I'd just have a dedicated tweezer circuit that only works for that. But I ended up getting hakko tweezers for ~$200 instead.

You can make a cross-compatible system without a huge amount of effort by power limiting. JBC feeds it with 12V but you could also feed the tips with 24V and hold the duty cycle way back, it would work the same way in the end.
I'm not sure if that is what Aifen is doing though.

[techboy]

Do you have a recommendation for a DIY one which has tweezer support? I wish I went through a Hakko way. but they are not that popular here in AUS I though I bet well on JBC.  Look how the tables turned.

[exe]

BTW have you test nano or microtweezers on Aixun T3?

No. I gave up on tweezers long time ago). Tweezers imo useful only for two-lead packages like 0603, etc. Much less use for sot23-3, etc (but I can be wrong). So, for two-leaded packages I just use knife tip or hotair gun. You can also use cartridges designed for two-leaded components, but, imo, that may require buying quite a few expensive cartridges.

There are videos how to desolder without tweezers, but I can't find them now. Though there is this one which I kinda like: .

Anyway, I'm fairly confident that if you need tweezers, buy the good ones. Any cheap stuff is junk, imo. Check if you can get a loaner, say, from jbc before buying.

[vulkan35]

I do run a Macbook and Laptop repair business in Adelaide, where I work mostly on 0201, 0402 size SMD components.

 

[Shock]

If you are after micro handpieces check out the Metcal MX5200 and Weller WXR3 systems also. For a multi handpiece setup avoid their other stations, they have lessor specs and integration.

Micro handpieces are lower power in most cases and many people just use a regular/slim sized handpiece and swap the cartridge tip if they need something smaller.

The Hakko FM2027/2028 70W slim sized handpiece is recommended a lot for laptop repair but if you already have a partly setup JBC system you may discover Hakko is a backwards step in specs and plastic quality (you may save money though).

[Arcturus]

I have good news for you, OP. JBC AN115-A nano tweezers can work with the Aifen A902 dual soldering station.

Recently, I snapped up a good deal on the tweezers, figuring that I'd never get another chance to buy it that cheap again. After some experimenting, I was able to make a Binder-to-Hirose adapter to connect the nano tweezers to my A902. A lot of these JBC clones seem to use the same wiring scheme for their Hirose-style "aviation" plugs, so it should work with any Aifen or Sugon JBC clone that can supply enough wattage to simultaneously power two C115 cartridges. The A902 is nice because it's a 350W station and supports C115, C210, C245, and even C470.

What's so annoying about the AN115-A is that it uses a pricey 5-pin male bayonet plug that's only made by Binder. I can't source the female bayonet it mates with because it's locally out of stock. I could order it from Binder USA, but the high cost of the connector and shipping makes it a nope for me. I did eventually find a good deal on a non-bayonet version that I used for R&D and the adapter. But, if I ever have to do it again, I would just remove the unobtainium Binder plug from the tweezers and replace it with a common Hirose aviation plug. Since I don't see myself buying a NASE station ever, it doesn't make sense to spend so much on a Binder product.

The tweezers are working great for me so far. I know some people think they're an extravagant toy, but I've found them super useful at times. They're really nice to have around when you need them.

If anyone's interested, I can also post photos of a hanger and stand for the tweezers that I bent from some 14 gauge solid Romex I had lying around. They put the tweezers into sleep mode.

[techboy]

Just the type of advice I was looking for. So both cartridges are in parallel. Do you get enough heat from them? Also do you get correct temperature response a sper what you set?

I have got a hangers for jbc from aliexpress can send you like if you wanna buy ready ones. Just missing the spirng on top where you hang your cable

Can you post female plug you used for the tweezers which is compatible with the Aifen

[Arcturus]

I got the pin numbering wrong on one of the drawings, so I deleted it. Here's the revised drawing.

[Arcturus]

Heating is fine as long as you have realistic expectations of what they're capable of. These are NANO tweezers after all. They won't work well on boards designed to dissipate gobs of heat. One PCB I tried it on was a USB power source attachment for a power tool battery. It took forever to get 603s off even though the board was tiny (40mm x 50mm). Some larger components near mosfets and other power related regions wouldn't come off at all even with lots of flux and a little help from hot air above.

And phone logic boards are small but engineered for heat efficiency. So, at times you'll need more than flux - like a pre-heater underneath. Other than that, components come off pretty quickly. When I've used it on smaller 2-layer microcontroller boards around 20mm x 40mm, parts come off in about 2-3 seconds.

As for temperature accuracy and response, I haven't done a careful test with thermal loading and recovery, etc. But, preliminary thermocouple readings look stable and close enough to say it's working alright. At least well enough to be useable for it's intended purpose. And I have used it with success for practical work, and for some people, that's all that really mattters. The biggest concern is that this mod sets up the cartridge thermocouples in parallel on the same sensing line. So I'm not sure how that's going to affect the controller's temperature algorithm. So far so good, though. Both cartridges measure virtually the same temperature with no thermal loading.

[Arcturus]

The female plug that goes into the Aifen is Hirose part RPC1-12P-6S(72). It's the same plug that every JBC clone handle uses.

[techboy]

Thank you very much for the usefull replies. I will definitely action this, so fed-up of the unisolder.
 I agree that 115 cartridges are powerful enough only for very small smd components on a low mass pcbs. Maybe microtweezers cartridges will have more power and mass?

I have nano soldering handle and nano tweezers working with 115 cartridges. Looking at the A902, i can choose 210 and 245 handles and buy a separate 6pin connector like this one AU $9.01 | JBC 6-core Replacement Socket C245 C210 T245 T210 T470 Welding Table Handle Replace the Plug
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOpQucq

Or for 30aud extra, I can just add 115 hangle with 3 extra tips and chop those ends and adopt to use with the nanotweezers.

[sobakava]

Hello,
This is interesting. Recently I bought an Aifen A9 Pro station with C210 handle.

I was wondering if I could use AN115-A tweezer handles with my station. Aifen A9 Pro has a circular 6 pin connector. The inner diameter of the male connector at the station is around 12.2mm.
The overlay text on the station says :  C210 (C115/C245).   Does it mean I can use all handles using the same connector?


And for the tweezer handles, can I connect one using your adapter scheme or I need something like this to use AN115-A

https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005225633424.html

[techboy]

I just received my A902 today and was thinking similiar option to add a 6 pin 2 position switch to switch between irons on each side.

This costs 70$ but seems elegant. However having the socket directly at the back with switch on top on each iron holder will be awesome as one unit only.

The adapter scheme seem to bridge both tips of the tweezer as one and it responds as an iron. Havent done it yet, but will be next step.
The one you posted seem to be a switch between two irons so you dont need to reconnect them at the back if i am correct.

[sobakava]

Hello, what is the power requirement of AN115? I checked and my Aifen A9Pro seems like rated at 96W. Do you think it is sufficient to power both elements of the tweezer?

Thanks

I have good news for you, OP. JBC AN115-A nano tweezers can work with the Aifen A902 dual soldering station.

Recently, I snapped up a good deal on the tweezers, figuring that I'd never get another chance to buy it that cheap again. After some experimenting, I was able to make a Binder-to-Hirose adapter to connect the nano tweezers to my A902. A lot of these JBC clones seem to use the same wiring scheme for their Hirose-style "aviation" plugs, so it should work with any Aifen or Sugon JBC clone that can supply enough wattage to simultaneously power two C115 cartridges. The A902 is nice because it's a 350W station and supports C115, C210, C245, and even C470.

What's so annoying about the AN115-A is that it uses a pricey 5-pin male bayonet plug that's only made by Binder. I can't source the female bayonet it mates with because it's locally out of stock. I could order it from Binder USA, but the high cost of the connector and shipping makes it a nope for me. I did eventually find a good deal on a non-bayonet version that I used for R&D and the adapter. But, if I ever have to do it again, I would just remove the unobtainium Binder plug from the tweezers and replace it with a common Hirose aviation plug. Since I don't see myself buying a NASE station ever, it doesn't make sense to spend so much on a Binder product.

The tweezers are working great for me so far. I know some people think they're an extravagant toy, but I've found them super useful at times. They're really nice to have around when you need them.

If anyone's interested, I can also post photos of a hanger and stand for the tweezers that I bent from some 14 gauge solid Romex I had lying around. They put the tweezers into sleep mode.

[techboy]

Heating is fine as long as you have realistic expectations of what they're capable of. These are NANO tweezers after all. They won't work well on boards designed to dissipate gobs of heat. One PCB I tried it on was a USB power source attachment for a power tool battery. It took forever to get 603s off even though the board was tiny (40mm x 50mm). Some larger components near mosfets and other power related regions wouldn't come off at all even with lots of flux and a little help from hot air above.

And phone logic boards are small but engineered for heat efficiency. So, at times you'll need more than flux - like a pre-heater underneath. Other than that, components come off pretty quickly. When I've used it on smaller 2-layer microcontroller boards around 20mm x 40mm, parts come off in about 2-3 seconds.

As for temperature accuracy and response, I haven't done a careful test with thermal loading and recovery, etc. But, preliminary thermocouple readings look stable and close enough to say it's working alright. At least well enough to be useable for it's intended purpose. And I have used it with success for practical work, and for some people, that's all that really mattters. The biggest concern is that this mod sets up the cartridge thermocouples in parallel on the same sensing line. So I'm not sure how that's going to affect the controller's temperature algorithm. So far so good, though. Both cartridges measure virtually the same temperature with no thermal loading.

I haven't tried it yet. check out @Arcturus's feedback. I have spilled my one's guts here on the table and still figuring out how to mod it. 96W should be more than sufficient to run it bot heaters. I don't think A902 feeds all 130W on each channel anyway.

[Arcturus]

On the A902 and A9 Pro, the C115, C210, and C245 handles all use the same 6-pin Hirose-style connector. However, there is an important difference in the wiring. The C115 and C210 handles have a jumper wire from pin 5 to pin 6. If you do not bridge pins 5 and 6 on the C115/C210 handles, the station will display an "H-A" error code upon lifting the handle out of the stand. Also, "S-E" error code means that blue and/or red are disconnected.

C245 handles are wired the same as C115 and C210, but there's no jumper wire. Pin 6 has no connection on C245. Another thing about the C245 handle is that the wire colors are swapped on pins 2 & 5. In other words, C245 pin 2 is blue (C3) and pin 5 is red (C2). Whereas C115/C210 pin 2 is red (C3) and pin 5 is blue (C2). They probably did it this way for consistency in color designating Vout+(red) and Vout-(blue). C115/C210 has Vout+ on C3 and Vout- on C2. C245 has Vout+ on C2, Vout- on C3.

I don't see why the nano tweezer adapter wouldn't work with the A9 Pro. That station is 120W, which is more than enough.
The extension unit you linked to is interesting. The auto-switch feature looks handy. BTW, there's a similar unit that has a Binder 5-pin connector in the back. Don't know if it'll work with the tweezers though.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803010440133.html

It would be ideal to design an auto-switching DIY extender mod pcb that can be mounted inside the A902. When you pick up tool A, tool B disconnects. And vice versa. A simpler alternative would be a manual switch mounted somewhere convenient. Maybe 3PDT for pins 1, 2, & 6 and gang the others?

BTW, for 2023, Aifen came out with upgraded T210 & T245 handles. The new handles have built-in temperature up/down buttons. They're using pins 3 & 4 to support this enhancement. The buttons control the temperature by grounding either of those pins (pin 1 is ground). Pin 3 is "DOWN", and pin 4 is "UP". Holding down both buttons puts the handle in "off" mode and disables that channel. Hold down both buttons again to re-enable.

[techboy]

That unit looks sleek, do you know how it detects what type of iron it uses? I have got 115, 210, 245 irons as part of thekit, but did not saw any resistors in the plug side. Must be detecting the type of iron somehow.

The buttons on the irons are actually quite comfortable. I was pessimistic at the start.
My thought for the DIP switch was this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000925833903.html its 6P2T and can switch all 6 lines between two states. Took some time to locate it, but I can fit one on each side of the power switch.

I am thinking to add nanotweezers and have 2 position manual switch for each iron side, which can alternate between all connected 4 irons. I am just contemplating keeping the hiroshi plugs or using standard aviation plugs instead. Those buggers are 15AUD each and still are missing the two extra pins for UP/DOWN on the iron handle. I don't mind having to manually switch between the irons as long as the switch is on a reachable distance. I have measured the space inside and this will fit nicely.

BTW I am combining my findings on A902 in a github repo so we can hack it around, would it be ok to include and modify some of your drawings?

[Arcturus]

That unit looks sleek, do you know how it detects what type of iron it uses? I have got 115, 210, 245 irons as part of thekit, but did not saw any resistors in the plug side. Must be detecting the type of iron somehow.

When the station detects C115/C210, it outputs ~8.5v. C245, it outputs ~20v or more. Exactly how it does that, I don't know.

What's clear is that the A902 doesn't need ID resistors like Unisolder and JBC. It's probably setting its output based on the presence of a connection to pin 6. It might be as simple as that. A more complicated approach would entail the range of resistances and TC offsets it detects between earth, C2, & C3 at various temperatures. The forum has a bunch of rabbit hole discussions about it that are way over my head. But if you look at the way the heater and thermocouple are connected internally on the various cartridges, you'll see that they're different. Between C1 and C3, C115/C210 heater & TC are in series while C245 heater & TC are parallel. So, you can distinguish C245 from C115/C210 just by taking a resistance reading between C1 & C3 while it's cold. For example, when I measured C210 & C245 cold and hot resistance, I found that C210 resistance is ~2.5ohms cold and >8ohms hot. C245 is zero to 0.3ohms cold, >24ohms when hot.

[Arcturus]

The buttons on the irons are actually quite comfortable. I was pessimistic at the start.
My thought for the DIP switch was this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000925833903.html its 6P2T and can switch all 6 lines between two states. Took some time to locate it, but I can fit one on each side of the power switch.

I am thinking to add nanotweezers and have 2 position manual switch for each iron side, which can alternate between all connected 4 irons. I am just contemplating keeping the hiroshi plugs or using standard aviation plugs instead. Those buggers are 15AUD each and still are missing the two extra pins for UP/DOWN on the iron handle. I don't mind having to manually switch between the irons as long as the switch is on a reachable distance. I have measured the space inside and this will fit nicely.

BTW I am combining my findings on A902 in a github repo so we can hack it around, would it be ok to include and modify some of your drawings?

Yeah, the new Up/Down buttons on the handle are pretty sick. Think I'll pick up a set, since I discovered from tinkering with pins 3 & 4 that my A902 from 2022 has the feature supported in it's firmware.

I'm going to add a manual switch to mine too. But I'm gonna try a 3PDT switch instead. Pins 3, 4, & 5 can be ganged, unless I'm missing something. See attached.

Feel free to add my drawings to your github repo. I made them in Google Drawings, so I'll have to figure out a good way to share the originals.

[techboy]

Apparently, the microcontroller is read blocked and doesn't allow reading out the firmware. I was hoping that I could dump the firmware.
How did you figure out what version your one is on?

They use these STC 8H1K28 uPC which has no way to dump the firmware out. Let me know if you come across their firmware dumps or updates anywhere.

[Arcturus]

I didn't have to dump the firmware. I just suspected the remote control feature might be already in the firmware for the station I bought in 2022 and started experimenting based on that hunch.

Since all the other pins are are designated for other things, I deduced that they must be using pins 3 & 4.

[Arcturus]

Turns out that I was missing something in my switch diagram. Only pins 3 & 4 can be ganged. Pins 1, 2, 5, & 6 each need to be switched independently, so I decided to use a 4PDT toggle switch. The revised diagram is attached. I also chose to make a switching cable instead of modifying the innards of the station. The toggle switch is fastened to a bracket fabricated from 1" wide stainless steel strip and mounted to the station with VHB tape.

[techboy]

Thank you very much for sharing this. I have a 10-pin Aviator plugs left from another project and was hoping to use them by fitting them inside.
I got a 6P2T switch to switch between the irons.

For some reason, I keep burning the main board  . Seagon were good to send me 2 replacement boards, and I blew both of them. This STC micro is very sensitive to any wrong wiring of the iron. I think the thermocouple pin is connected straight to the pin of the micro and, if not wired correctly, sends 24V straight to it?
I have dead short between the 5V and GND of the Micro pins. When unsoldered the Micro the short is gone. Same on all 3 boards 

I think I blew it the first and second times because I did not consider the mirrored pinout between the male and female plugs.

The third time was my last board. I had it working with one side C245 iron through the connection diagram below without connecting the UP/DOWN buttons. The minute I soldered the up/down buttons' yellow and white cables, it beeped like having a cardiac arrest and died on me.

I am completely lost as to what I am wiring wrong. Here is the wiring diagram I got. Can anybody spot an issue with it?


Also, I can't understand why the V+ and V- change polarities between C210 and C245 cartridges? Is that a typo?


Maybe I am that unlucky and should just get Hiroshi plugs and a 4PDT switch and do the extensions outside like you did to avoid any internal foul play.

[Arcturus]

Your slide switch wiring doesn't look quite right. Some of the terminals probably aren't what you think they are. In other words, I believe you're pivoting off the wrong terminals. If you look at the data sheet for the switch, there’s a schematic that shows which pins are common pivot points (black dots). Caution. I haven’t validated my wiring diagram yet though. I’ll open up my station and take a look. you’ve smoked enough boards already.

[techboy]

Yes, I did, and understandably i cannot buy more replacements. Trying to convince the guys to send me the firmware, but it's a lost hope as the Chinese are very protective of their code.
These micros seem like prevention to extract a dump, and I'm stuck at this stage. Sunegon offered to send it back for a repair, I might opt in for that option, but that means no more modifications.

I thought I read the pinouts correctly though? Isn't this the path? When I measure the position that type of reading I am getting

[Arcturus]

Your drawing reveals some issues. Check your Hirose pin connections again. I think you'll find that they aren't wired to the pin numbers you think they are. Get a magnifying glass and a good light to examine closely the pin numbers that are physically marked onto the plastic housing of the connector (yes, there are actual little numbers embossed near each pin). Both male and female connectors have matching pin numbers, so pin 1 on the male mates with pin 1 on the female. I can't stress this enough: THE PIN NUMBER MARKS WILL GUIDE YOU TO SUCCESS.

No matter which connector it is, male or female, they both follow this numbering scheme:
Pin 1: Ground/Earth (green)
Pin 2: Vout (red)
Pin 3: Down (white)
Pin 4: Up (yellow)
Pin 5: Vout (blue)

I'm assuming your drawing for the Hirose male connector is from the solder side. If so, then you've got Earth (green) on the wrong pin. Again, check that the green wire is soldered to the pin marked "1". If you soldered it to pin 5, that's wrong. You also have the pin for the UP button soldered to a Vout pin! Maybe that explains why you released the magic smoke. You turned UP/Down into self-destruct buttons. Go carefully pin by pin and verify that you soldered each wire to the correct pin number. Don't guess/assume at the pin number. Use your magnifier/microscope to confirm the pin marking.

BTW, is that a GX16 10-pin connector you're using for the extension?

[vulkan35]

For some reason, I keep burning the main board  . Seagon were good to send me 2 replacement boards, and I blew both of them.

 

[techboy]

Thanks @Arcturus for putting up with me.

Yes all connectors on the drawing are from the soldering side. Following your extension switch hookup diagram now I can see that I have wired them wrongly

iron red to 5
iron green to 2
iron blue to 1

Yes, these are GX-16 connectors I had left over from the unisolder project. I should have just bought the Hiroshi ones.
Seems like the switch hookup is fine, only the cross-wired iron on the GX16 was a mess

I will have to go radio silent for two months until the boards get repaired. Nothing much I can test without them, I assume.

Appreciate all your help, mate, will follow your latest diagram once I have the boards, hopefully, repaired.

[techboy]

Thanks for all your help @arcturus

I have managed to get both 210 and 245 irons and tips working.

The only issue I am experiencing is that when I wire up 115 iron based on the pin configuration which comes on the Hiroshi socket I get the iron tip turning red hot. I think I damaged already 3 x C115 tips I got with the Aifen 115 iron.
I tested these tips with the iron when I first got it, I am sure it was working fine, I must have wired something wrong. But I followed the Hiroshi plug configuration on sockets which now works on 210 and 245.

Can you confirm if this configuration works with your C115 tips? I have tried also to disconnect bridged 5 to 6 pins.
I checked each iron I have and traced the socket which leads inside and this is colours and orientations
Seems like your 115 iron cables are slightly different than my 2 x 115 irons here (one original JBC and another Aifens one) Can you confirm how did you wire up 115 iron?





Internal schematic end up like this

[techboy]

Hooray, managed to get all working finally. Thank you @arcturus for the pointers.

Here is my setup

[techboy]

I absolutely Agree with you.

The Aifen right now does all I need and I have my tweezers which work great. But, I must admit Chinese iron holders and tips are absolute rubbish. They burn for no reason even under 300*c at times. The jbc tips I have with Chinese iron holder is much more reliable.

I would spend in a blink $5K for the JBC system, but return in investment is so long that I cant justify it right now. Either I need to opt in for a single iron option or go this track. Down the track when people queue outside for macbook board repairs  it will be the way ill go.

So far very happy with the Aifen and slowly will get JBC tips as each are about $80 now, while Chinese at $25.

[MR]

I used the JBC C105 tools for a longer time, but they're EOL and the tips are overpriced (45 EUR one tip now, a tweezer requiring 2 tips makes it 90 EUR... surely JBC just lost a customer due to that pricing and EOL'ing the C105, they are already expensive but finally doubling that is too much). 25 EUR was my maximum for tips and I used to buy like 10 a time back then, buying started to go down when I figured out the trick with the heat gun.

In order to increase the life time (drastically) of the c105 tips I used to support it with a hot air gun, I think I set the heat-gun to 300°C adding the tweezers will get the components off in no time and increase the lifetime of the tip 10-fold at least. You can get the components off within seconds.

[techboy]

I would advise check out preheaters. I was sceptical, bit heating the hole board to 150*C and even tweezers pulls those filtering caps with an ease.

Heat gun, on one hand and soldering on another under microscope its already cramped for me.

They ha e this low profile preheaters which work awesomely. Only annoyance is that I need to coole the board each time before it goes under IR camera to keep looking for that short.