Affordable crimp tools for small connectors (Dupont, etc.)

[knotlogic]

Just to add another datapoint into the mix:  I purchasd a "Todzo TZ-4228B" off Aliexpress which has the same die as the tool tooki talked about in the first post.  Worked near perfect on the first try.  Perhaps the crimp was a little flat... too much pressure perhaps?  But the tension is adjustable so I think I might be able to dial that down.

[dreamcat4]

tension is adjustable so I think I might be able to dial that down.

don't suppose you can explain how to do that? Sorry i didn't realize this was possible for this tool. (I have one here already). Would be nice to know about

[voltsandjolts]

Adjuster highlighted.

[tooki]

Just to add another datapoint into the mix:  I purchasd a "Todzo TZ-4228B" off Aliexpress which has the same die as the tool tooki talked about in the first post.  Worked near perfect on the first try.  Perhaps the crimp was a little flat... too much pressure perhaps?  But the tension is adjustable so I think I might be able to dial that down.

The flatness is the die shape. Reducing the force may just result in unreliable crimps.

[Dakkahun]

Apparently, at least in Europe, Lidl is selling this week an JST/Dupont crimper set:
https://www.lidl.de/p/parkside-crimpzangen-set-2012-teilig/p100367458
whick looks like this:

[tooki]

Apparently, at least in Europe, Lidl is selling this week an JST/Dupont crimper set:
https://www.lidl.de/p/parkside-crimpzangen-set-2012-teilig/p100367458
whick looks like this:
(Attachment Link)

If that’s accurate, then someone at Lidl was actually paying attention!


Anyhow, it’s not a Europe-wide sale item. It’s not here in Switzerland, at least not yet. They often stagger the specials. If it comes here I’ll definitely take a look!

[Gyro]

Their centre isle never ceases to surprise!

[eliocor]

Just bought one from a Lidl shop (Italy) for 19.99€:


the crimping is rather decent:


P.S.: sorry for the low quality photo: it was made with a smartphone....

[tooki]

It’s impressive that they chose the circular insulation crimp. But like the Toozo, the conductor crimp is unnecessarily huge. And like most of these tools, the length of the conductor crimp is too long. It’s long enough to be damaging the anti rotation flaps, never mind leave a bell mouth on the conductor crimp area.

Could you post some close-ups of the dies from various angles, both open and closed?

[eliocor]

just some better pictures and even better crimping....



Remember: RTFM!! Yes, there is even an IKEA-style manual!

The following close-ups are enough?

[eliocor]

some more pictures

[Ian.M]

You are positioning the pin in the die incorrectly, as the centerline of the die should *NOT* be leaving a mark on the contact crimp section.  The centerline of the die should be close to but not on the insulation grip, and the anti-rotation ears just behind the square box section should be *just* clear of the face of the die so they don't get crimped.  The whole length of the contact crimp should be uniform with no wire insulation under it.

If you are still having problems, please measure accurate thicknesses to the centerline of both sides (not both jaws) of the die  and photo the crimped and uncrimped pins + the prepared wire on a background of graph paper (and tell us its square size).  We should then be able to tell you what adjustments you need to make.

I am glad to see the photo of the whole tool shows the die set installed punch jaw facing up and the die jaw facing down when held.  You need it that way so you can see the end of the wire is correctly positioned in the terminal before crimping and it also aids in positioning the terminal correctly.  Any budget crimper that has the punch jaw on top could probably benefit from swapping its jaws!

Terminology:

• Die - correctly the female (hollow) part of a die set. Commonly misused to apply to both and even adjacent parts!
• Punch or Male Die - the 'sticky out' part of a die set

[eliocor]

just never used the "dupont" connector, so it is sure I'm making some errors

--------------
after some time....
--------------

so, now:


is more correct, right?

[tooki]

just some better pictures and even better crimping....



Remember: RTFM!! Yes, there is even an IKEA-style manual!

The following close-ups are enough?

The inside finish of the dies looks astoundingly good for a $30 tool. Thanks for the pix!

[tooki]

You are positioning the pin in the die incorrectly, as the centerline of the die should *NOT* be leaving a mark on the contact crimp section.  The centerline of the die should be close to but not on the insulation grip, and the anti-rotation ears just behind the square box section should be *just* clear of the face of the die so they don't get crimped.  The whole length of the contact crimp should be uniform with no wire insulation under it.

What do you mean by the centerline in this context? It sounds to me, from context, that you mean the inner edge of the die.

If so, you’re incorrect, insofar as a bell mouth is mandatory on the inlet side of the conductor crimp.

Terminology:

• Die - correctly the female (hollow) part of a die set. Commonly misused to apply to both and even adjacent parts!
• Punch or Male Die - the 'sticky out' part of a die set

Amohenol and TE call them the “crimper” (F) and “anvil” (M).
Molex calls them “punch” (F) and “anvil” (M).

“Dies” in general refers to the set of both, see e.g.
https://www.amphenolrf.com/library/download/link/link_id/599178/

See e.g.
TE: https://www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/application-tooling/global/Where%20Form%20Meets%20FunctionA-1-1773838-7.pdf
Molex: https://www.molex.com/content/dam/molex/molex-dot-com/products/automated/en-us/commercialcrimpbookpdf/638/63800/TM-638000029-001.pdf
Amphenol (née FCI née DuPont née Berg): https://mm.digikey.com/Volume0/opasdata/d220001/medias/docus/927/HT-0095.pdf

[tooki]

just some better pictures and even better crimping....

There’s a lot wrong there:
- insulation trapped in conductor crimp 👎 👎
- anti-rotation ears damaged 👎
- excessive bell mouth 👎

--------------
after some time....
--------------

so, now:


is more correct, right?

Eh…
- anti-rotation ears intact 👍
- no bell mouth at all 👎
- contact was rotated during crimping, resulting in indentation on one of the conductor crimp wings 👎
- not enough insulation visible past the insulation crimp 👎

These posters from major crimp terminal manufacturers should give you an idea of what to strive for:
JST: https://www.digikey.ch/en/pdf/j/jst-sales-america/jst-crimpchart
Molex: https://forum.digikey.com/t/molex-quality-crimp-posters-multiple-languages/4442
TE: https://www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/application-tooling/global/65780-4_Crimp%20Quality%20Poster.pdf

The Amphenol datasheets for the original Mini-PV tools shows it specifically for this type of contact (see attachments), sadly at low resolution. However, I doubt the Lidl tool is designed precisely enough to actually be capable of meeting all the specifications (especially a back and front bell mouth). https://mm.digikey.com/Volume0/opasdata/d220001/medias/docus/927/HT-0095.pdf (female)
https://mm.digikey.com/Volume0/opasdata/d220001/medias/docus/1116/HT-0102.pdf (male)


Also, what gauge of wire are you using? It looks like it might be a bit on the thin side for these contacts.

[eliocor]

As I wrote, it was the first time I crimped "dupont" contacts and I do (didn't) know their specifications....
I have almost crimped only Moles 560023 terminals (just for prototyping).
Regarding the type of wire used: I used some scrape wire from telephonic RJ cable but I do not know its specifications

[Ian.M]

I'd bet that you need the official tooling, as recommended by the genuine connector manufacturer, to get proper bellmouths at both ends of the conductor crimp.   Those of us with shallower pockets using cheaper tools are doing well to get a conductor crimp that's uniform for its whole length, and without excessive distortion.  Cheap sets of dies made by wire EDM cutting consisting of pinned together sections are almost invariably only going to give you straight crimps. 

On the terminology;  Why am I not surprised that sections of the electronics industry have done their own thing, the opposite way round to the rest of the metal forming industry?  @Tooki: Thank you for making me better informed.

As to wire size - if the tool or its instructions, or the contacts datasheet give a size range, stick to it, however for cheap tools that at best give a vaguely marked size on the jaws, its 'suck it and see', and check it passes a pull test.   If you are buying wire from a reputable supplier, it should meet its specs, including cross section area (CSA), but from dubious suppliers, you'll often get less copper than you expect, and sometimes far less!  Salvaged wire is down to you, does it look right compared to the good stuff, and if its critical, one may have to break out the micrometer, measure enough strands to get an average, count the strands and calculate the total CSA to be certain.

[coppercone2]

bought the real molex tool for $120

people with the proper tools, you are not alone

[eliocor]

My wire choice was just to test the crimper: I do not exactly know gauge and strip size for "dupont" contacts.
The exact opposite was for the Molex 560023 terminals: I used the original crimper (IIRC > 800€) and the suggested wires and strip size. Otherwise I let a third party to prepare the cable/connectors for me.

But for home usage, I think even the Lidl ones can be good enough.... Once one learns how to do it.
Unluckily I have seen no videos with such details/quality like the pictures I have posted: I know it is not so easy to do macrophotography videos, but I'd like too find some good quality tutorials 

[tooki]

bought the real molex tool for $120

people with the proper tools, you are not alone

Which one? 0640160201?

We got one of those at my old job and it was so lousy we submitted an RMA to digikey. (They actually just refunded it, but didn’t want the tool back.) See the attached photo: the misalignment of the smallest jaw isn’t parallax error in the photo, it was actually off by that much. Useless.

[elnoob]

just some better pictures and even better crimping....



Remember: RTFM!! Yes, there is even an IKEA-style manual!

The following close-ups are enough?

The inside finish of the dies looks astoundingly good for a $30 tool. Thanks for the pix!

What do you think about crimping quality of this tool?
I’m choosing between TZ-4228B and this tool from Lidl. For me TZ-4228B made a better crimping when I looked at photos.

[elnoob]

BTW I’ve found another crimping tool called SN-2 on AliExpress - a seller claims that it’s specially for DuPont connectors:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005002629846509.html

[Ian.M]

AliExpress sellers claim *anything*!

The die position vs contact type drawing shows an appropriate (rounded) shape for the DuPont wrap-around insulation crimp, but the closeup photo of the SN-2 tool shows the characteristic hump of a F-type fold-in insulation piercing crimp, unsuitable for DuPont.  Which they actually ship (or something completely different) is anyone's guess and may vary from week to week!

[wraper]

BTW I’ve found another crimping tool called SN-2 on AliExpress - a seller claims that it’s specially for DuPont connectors:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005002629846509.html

You can find "Dupont" in the title of nearly all of small connector crimpers. And 99% of them are not actually compatible. That's what this thread is about.