Affordable crimp tools for small connectors (Dupont, etc.)

[nctnico]

For Molex KK the official service tool (order number 0640160201) is still in the affordable range at around $135 and it can crimp other series as well.

[cjs]

Well, looks like I'm rather late to the party here, though I bought my crimper well before this thread started. I picked up one that's been mentioned slightly on this thread, the Preciva PR-3254. (It seems to be getting harder to buy; it's been unavailable on amazon.co.jp for more than half a year now, though it seems still to be available on amazon.de. I've never seen it on AliExpress, as far as I can recall.)

Like the TZ-4228B /  SN-4228B, the innermost die is designed for "dupont" connectors:


My first hundred or so connectors had about a 25% success rate, and the second hundred about 66%, but these days I'm doing much better. None of my bad connections appear to be due to the tool itself, but with my skill at correctly positoning the connector in the crimp nest (not so difficult) and the wire in the connector (much more difficult). When the crimp is good you can give the wire a very hard tug and it will not come loose from the connector.

Here's a photo of some early results, an ok (albeit with too much conductor stripped) and an incorrect (mispositioned connector and wire) crimp. (My current work looks better than this, but I don't have any photos handy.)


I've not used this with anything other than dupont as of yet, nor have I used any other crimp tools, so I can't really compare it. (I'm thinking I'll grab a TZ-4228B, though, since they're cheap enough to be worth it to learn a bit more about the differences between crimp tools.) But I am pretty happy with the results of this one, and from the problems and results I've seen others having, I suspect a good part of their issues is that the die is incorrect. For the rest, well, positioning, positioning, positioning.

I've found that with the separate M-shaped conductor punch and round-shaped insulation punch there's a not insignificant "step" from latter to the former, and it can work to push the insulation up to butt against that step at the top of the entry. It doesn't seem to make much difference whether the wire is at the top (against the punch) or the bottom (against the anvil that pushes up on the base of the connector); in both cases the crimp seems to come out the same.

And hey, use your dominant hand to insert the wire, even if you have to turn the crimper around, and even if you have to switch hands to finish the crimp. Surely it can't be the case that most You-tubers are left handed....

(If anybody knows what's wrong with the inline attachment feature that's obviously not working here, feel free to PM me.)

[BlackICE]

I ordered one if these with the connectors kits. I hope it arrives and works OK.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001044611583.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.22ec3002WejQlI

[profanum429]

I ended up finding a new-in-box Molex 11-01-0208 for the SL contacts; they are the same pitch and I like the header system with latches and the contacts aren't too bad on price. They seem relatively compatible with plugging into Dupont style, but the overall SL system is pretty good I think.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Molex-11-01-0208-22-24-30-36-AWG-Hand-Crimp-Tool-New-In-Box-Instructions/233847797157?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 is the tool I bought; I offered the guy $100 and he accepted so you can probably get them for that or maybe even cheaper. They showed up today and like expected crimp the SL contacts (male and female) perfectly. I'm pretty happy with the purchase especially after fiddling with the usual assortment of SN-whatevers. I figure I'll just stick to SL terminals on future boards; a little big but I'm liking them.

[seanspotatobusiness]

Are the TZ-4228B and SN-4228B the exact same tool?

[Joebeazelman]

I feel your pain. Shopping around for a good set of crimpers is a bewildering experience. There are literally hundreds of brands to choose from with most being rebrands of the same Chinese-made set. It's tempting to just pick the most expensive one because it often tends to be the most popular or highly recommended, such as the Engineer brand.  It doesn’t necessarily, however, guarantee the best value for your money.  I have some tips for selecting a good one along with a couple of recommendations.

You can often discern the quality of the crimpers from the photos. The best crimpers have precision cut and hardened jaws. You can tell by the jaw’s razor-sharp edges and corners and its crisp profiles. The surface finish on the jaws is smooth and even polished in order for the wings to smoothly roll inside the die profile. Cheaper ones are either coated or blued to hide surface defects.

All that said, I have had nothing but stellar results with the iWISS IWS-3220M with JST and Dupont-styled pins. I have the older model with the blue grip.  After trying several cheap and expensive ones, it's the only one that gives me a consistently strong factory quality crimp.  The main issue with all the ratcheting type crimpers is the insertion and alignment of the terminal or pin.  This one is no different, but the narrow jaw width gives you good visibility from both sides. I can only vouch for its performance on JST and Dupont Pins. It’s offered under other brands.  At $23, they are a no brainer:

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-IWS-3220M-Connector-0-03-0-52mm%C2%B2-Ratcheting/dp/B078WPT5M1/

The best crimpers I have used for larger terminals are the Zhushan VSB series. This is a slept-on crimper! It has a unique design and feels more substantial than crimpers that cost over $100.  The action feels very smooth and effortless in the hand.  At well under $20 a pair, they are a steal:

https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Zhushan-0-5-6mm%C2%B2-Insulated-Terminal/dp/B08KGD68FN/

https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Zhushan-0-5-1-0mm%C2%B2-Self-Adjusting-Non-Insulated/dp/B08L7SDYGY/

They offer other models but for some reason, they don’t show up readily on Amazon searches, so you may have to Google to find them.

[tooki]

I feel your pain. Shopping around for a good set of crimpers is a bewildering experience. There are literally hundreds of brands to choose from with most being rebrands of the same Chinese-made set. It's tempting to just pick the most expensive one because it often tends to be the most popular or highly recommended, such as the Engineer brand.  It doesn’t necessarily, however, guarantee the best value for your money.  I have some tips for selecting a good one along with a couple of recommendations.

You can often discern the quality of the crimpers from the photos. The best crimpers have precision cut and hardened jaws. You can tell by the jaw’s razor-sharp edges and corners and its crisp profiles. The surface finish on the jaws is smooth and even polished in order for the wings to smoothly roll inside the die profile. Cheaper ones are either coated or blued to hide surface defects.

All that said, I have had nothing but stellar results with the iWISS IWS-3220M with JST and Dupont-styled pins. I have the older model with the blue grip.  After trying several cheap and expensive ones, it's the only one that gives me a consistently strong factory quality crimp.  The main issue with all the ratcheting type crimpers is the insertion and alignment of the terminal or pin.  This one is no different, but the narrow jaw width gives you good visibility from both sides. I can only vouch for its performance on JST and Dupont Pins. It’s offered under other brands.  At $23, they are a no brainer:

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-IWS-3220M-Connector-0-03-0-52mm%C2%B2-Ratcheting/dp/B078WPT5M1/

The best crimpers I have used for larger terminals are the Zhushan VSB series. This is a slept-on crimper! It has a unique design and feels more substantial than crimpers that cost over $100.  The action feels very smooth and effortless in the hand.  At well under $20 a pair, they are a steal:

https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Zhushan-0-5-6mm%C2%B2-Insulated-Terminal/dp/B08KGD68FN/

https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Zhushan-0-5-1-0mm%C2%B2-Self-Adjusting-Non-Insulated/dp/B08L7SDYGY/

They offer other models but for some reason, they don’t show up readily on Amazon searches, so you may have to Google to find them.

I agree with most of what you say, but I do question your DuPont crimps, since (as this thread explains at length), they are categorically impossible to crimp correctly in a crimper without a circular insulation die, which the 3220M does not have.

[tooki]

Are the TZ-4228B and SN-4228B the exact same tool?

I would assume so. I haven’t seen anyone but Toozo sell it.

[Joebeazelman]

Are taking about the same dupont connectors?  Here is what I consider to be dupont connectors:

" alt="" class="bbc_img" /> 

[tooki]

Are taking about the same dupont connectors?  Here is what I consider to be dupont connectors:

(Attachment Link) " alt="" class="bbc_img" />

Yep. The offset triangular insulation wings require a circular die to crimp correctly. They aren’t supposed to penetrate the insulation.

Perhaps share some good pictures of your crimped contacts?

[TheBay]

I normally don't cheap out on crimp tools, but I needed to do some Dupont and JST connectors and bought a "Preciva" branded crimp tool as I could get it next day on Amazon. All I can say is wow it exceeded my expectations and does a perfect crimp every time.

[gatoruss]

I know this is an old thread, but is the SN-4228B and the TZ-4228B the same device?  Both are offered thru Alliexpress.

[thm_w]

Looks the same to me, the first one even shows "TZ-4228B" in the photos.

It was also asked earlier in this thread.

[sleemanj]

With those SN and TZ from Ali you'll never know what you are getting.  Who knows how many manufacturers there are of them, probably some are great, and some are... not.
 Always be sure to read the customer reviews at the very least.

I stick to my assessment that the Iwiss 2820M are the best bang for buck in hobby crimping, not fancy, and technically "the wrong shape" as described in this thread, but they are cheap, well made, and work reliably with just a little practice.  They are the ones I reach for in my draw, not the couple pairs of different ratchett ones or other manual ones.

[tooki]

With those SN and TZ from Ali you'll never know what you are getting.  Who knows how many manufacturers there are of them, probably some are great, and some are... not.
 Always be sure to read the customer reviews at the very least.

Except with the rarer types like the 4228B and SN-25, which seem to have one, maybe two companies making them.

I stick to my assessment that the Iwiss 2820M are the best bang for buck in hobby crimping, not fancy, and technically "the wrong shape" as described in this thread, but they are cheap, well made, and work reliably with just a little practice.  They are the ones I reach for in my draw, not the couple pairs of different ratchett ones or other manual ones.

I am inherently skeptical of non-ratcheting crimp tools due to the uncontrolled crimp force.

At some point that isn’t now, at 1:20am on a work night, I need to write a proper update. But in a nutshell:
The official AMPMODU MOD IV tool I got for cheap is, by a wide margin, my preferred crimp tool. I use it routinely for DuPont and KK254 crimps, and the results are just gorgeous, with the least effort by far.
Next favorite is the IWISS 3220M. It’s basically an SN-01BM, -02BM, and -03BM (i.e. various size D-sub) rolled into one linear action tool. Of the tools I have, it does the best on JST XH and similar.

I also managed to snag, after having a saved search for years on the local classifieds, a DMC AFM8 military crimped (for machined, circular contacts). A joy to use, for things where a circular contact is available. (So completely irrelevant to this thread. :p )

I picked up a used Molex Mini-Fit Jr. tool. It’s neither intended nor suitable for DuPont. With the locator removed, it can be cajoled into making some VERY nice KK254 crimps, but positioning the contact in the tool to do so is an exercise in frustration.

At my previous workplace, we ordered the $125 Molex KK254, etc. tool mentioned above (64016-0201). It was… bad. Decent handle, but cheap cast dies that did not line up correctly, producing consistently disappointing crimps. And the included clothespin-looking thingie that is supposed to pass for a locator is a joke. It’s fiddlier than just holding the damned contact by hand. We requested an RMA from Digi-Key and they just refunded the money and didn’t even want it sent back.

At my current work, we have a semi-official Mini-PV tool. (Semi-official in that it’s a tool from an expensive manufacturer, made specifically for Mini-PV, but not from Amphenol. I’m quite certain the actual OEM is WEZAG.) Unsurprisingly it works perfectly on the female Mini-PV contacts it’s designed for. It’s very difficult to use it for male mini-PV, however, as the die shape relies on the locator to prevent rotation of the contact, so when not using the locator (for the male pins) it’s fidgety. Real Mini-PV contacts, both male and female, have much wider, more open insulation crimp wings than the Chinese DuPonts. Easier to insert fat insulation into, but harder to crimp without a locator.

[DeKay]

I bought a TZ-4228B and it has been working well for me and the Dupont connectors it is meant to crimp.  However, there is more to life than Duponts, and I wondered if this tool could accept other dies from other vendors.  And indeed it can!  I just bought an SN-02C jaw from here with free shipping and it works perfectly.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32863408595.html

It seems that the only thing you really need to look for is the "4mm" width of the die where it fits into the jaws of the crimper.  There is another type of die out there for a similar crimper that (if I remember correctly) is 6mm wide at the top of the die.  Stay away from those and you should be golden.

[tooki]

Yeah, as best I can tell, the -4228B is a bog-standard SN-type handle, but with a rare die.

[hitech95]

While looking for some crimping tool I've come up to this post.

Oh yeah, I also promised updates on the TZ-4228B.

I can happily report that it works great on JST PH (2.0mm), JST SM (the 2.5mm wire-to-wire connectors with flat pins that are commonly used on LED strips), and JST VH (3.96mm).

It does not work particularly well for Molex KK 3.96mm, as those contacts have diagonal/offset insulation crimps (just like Dupont) that demand a round insulation die. The small 2.54mm Molex KK discussed in prior posts have symmetrical insulation crimps that work perfectly in this tool.

So the upshot is that so far, the TZ-4228B is proving to be very versatile. The crimps aren't quite as good as OEM tools would create, but they are still good, and at 1/20th the cost, this is a totally acceptable compromise for hobby use.

I'll also add the observation that the sweet spot for wire size seems to be around 24-22AWG (~0.2mm²-0.35mm²) for the majority of the contacts. This tool's dies simply aren't designed for super thin or super thick wires. Going just from memory, I would suggest that the 4 jaws work best for:
1 (JST PH, XH): 26-24AWG (0.12-0.2mm²)
2 (JST XH, SM; Molex KK254): 24-20AWG (0.2-0.5mm²)
3 (JST VH): 24-18AWG (0.2-0.75mm²)
4 (Dupont): 24-20AWG (0.2-0.5mm²)

In any case the contact needs to be sized to the wire. All the real manufacturers have different size contacts for different wire sizes, but the Ali/eBay vendors often mix and match, and don't tell you which you're getting. For the most part, it seems that the female Dupont contacts are the ones for thin wire, while the male ones (and gold-plated female ones) are the contacts for thicker wire, which I prefer.

I mostly "crimp" spade connectors and JST PH and XH for my DIY projects.
Until now I basically used pliers and a point of solder. It worked fine for my needs but I wanted something better. 

After reading the thred I've got the 4228B and the SN-48B.

And here the issues are showing... now I want to say that I'm a complete noob on crimping,
as said before I've used plers until today. 

SN-48: the die is lose, the lower handle is shaking in the lever pins, like if the pins are too long.
Shaking it it makes rattling sound. Something is moving inside one of the handle mold.
I'm not sure If I have to notify the seller that it has probably damaged in shipping...

I've crimped some spade connector I had around and it worked fine. It was quite easy compared to my method.
I did 4 connectors in a row!

Then due to my success I've moved to the to the JST PH....

according to the post I should use the first position of the 4228B.
I've watched and watched again my tool but I cannot find a way to identify on which side the connector goes.
While the bottom die is different in the two section the top one instead seems (to my eye) the same for both section.
So no difference for the insulator crimp and the copper crimp.


Well I have a lot of connectors so I decided to go with try and error...
I did 7 or 8 and none really crimped the wire, only the insulator but only on thicker wires.

I've tried different way to position the metal piece. I've noticed that I have to do 2 separate crimp If I don't want to mangle the part that goes into the plastic housing
I have to do the two steps otherwise the part get smashed.

But even doing so the second one still have no effect on the wiring wings...

Is the tool/die defective or its just me?

Its hard to take a decent picture, but you can see that the wire is not crimped and, that the metal insert is not complelty compressed.

Should I ask for a refund?


EDIT: Ive tried HX too, and also in this case the wings that should crimp the metal parts are not folded.


EDIT 2: I've found something similar to my issue:
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Ab9dbaa7560e340bea85b5f38307838b0T.jpg

[thm_w]

While looking for some crimping tool I've come up to this post.

Since most people are right handed, the tool is designed to be held in your right hand then feed in the crimp with your left hand.
The insulation portion of the crimp die will be larger (so it doesnt crimp it as tight), it should be possible to look at the die to confirm this.
Your die does look as if both halves are even, but, you'd need to look at the other half of the die as well.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H119bc55a680f434898a55114286b84886.jpg

[hitech95]

While looking for some crimping tool I've come up to this post.

Since most people are right handed, the tool is designed to be held in your right hand then feed in the crimp with your left hand.
The insulation portion of the crimp die will be larger (so it doesnt crimp it as tight), it should be possible to look at the die to confirm this.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H119bc55a680f434898a55114286b84886.jpg

Yep, got it... I was using it in the right hand!
As stated the bottom die is different, the top one is even on its two part.
I've looked for picture of the die in the web and I've found only one still image in a video.

But I can say that my die dont have the M shape on both No.4 and No.1 positions in the narrow section of the die.
In fact it doesn't has the narrower part at all.

I was expecting something like this but mine are not like that (See attachments for the pictures):


EDIT: added a decent macro photo of my empty crimp.

[thm_w]

Good photos.
Yeah that photo you found (from this site https://mysku.club/blog/aliexpress/86239.html) would confirm the die is defective, they probably used two of the same plates instead of one of plate A and one plate B.
If you can send that photo clearly to the seller, try to get a refund or send you a new die.

[tooki]

Yep, that’s definitely not right. Despite the fact that they ground down the die width properly on both sides, they definitely used two insulation crimp die halves on the top, rather than one conductor die half and one insulation die half.

[hitech95]

Good photos.
Yeah that photo you found (from this site https://mysku.club/blog/aliexpress/86239.html) would confirm the die is defective, they probably used two of the same plates instead of one of plate A and one plate B.
If you can send that photo clearly to the seller, try to get a refund or send you a new die.

Oh I didnt not found that site, but I did found a still image in a YouTube video...
But yes the die is definetly broken.

Yep, that’s definitely not right. Despite the fact that they ground down the die width properly on both sides, they definitely used two insulation crimp die halves on the top, rather than one conductor die half and one insulation die half.

Ok, at the end even if I'm a noob on this topic I'm not that dumb not trying to figure out why the crimp was not working!

Well I'm gonna order a new one from a different supplier lets see what happends!
I'll post an update once I get it!

[hitech95]

So
 yesterday I received the new crimp tool.

I directly tested a JST XH, it was ok at first try.
Both wings folded this time and the cable has been crimped in place.

Small mistake in my end partially crimped the insulation on the mall wings but still fine for me.

The two half of the die now are different.

The only downside is that this crimp is quite harder to push and open... this one was packaged better than the previous.

[gjvdheiden]

Bought the  Preciva PR-3254 from amazon. The dupont went pretty well.

Also tried Molex micro-fit 3.0 0430300038 connectors. You'll have to position the tabs in the crimper, but ok. Guess you could make a fixture in the 3D printer to align it, but just to much trouble for nothing.

Also took a picture of the dimensions mentions in the little booklet. Checked the thickness, they are correct.