Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?

[mastershake]

the stands are different because the t3a and t3b use different ends for the handles where they connect to the stand as well the t3b runs the cable through the stand then out to the handle the t3a does not do that

[emimad]

Hello.
A week ago I bought an Aaixun T3A  soldering station complete with c245 handle. Firmware version 1.25
Three days later, a malfunction appeared - the station stopped switching to sleep mode when the soldering iron handle was placed on the stand.

All other functions work. Connects to a computer via USB.
You can read the firmware version and serial number.
I reset the controller to factory settings. Did not help.
Moreover, the controller sees that the handle is installed on a stand - this is noticeable from the power graph. But the temperature does not decrease, but remains the one that I set. Sleep does not appear on the screen
It is likely that this is a software bug. I can't flash the new software - version 1.25 is the latest.
What else can I do?

Do you have this issue with Aixun tips and with JBC tips?
Because I have the same problem but only with original JBC tips.

I think the problem is that they have slightly different shapes in the handle connection area.
This is the JBC:


This is the Aixun:


Probably the connection in the Aixun handle is in that area.

[emimad]

This video helps to clarify:

[rosaage]

I ordered a T3A in early january and have been using it a bit. It has worked okay with the included tips, a bit lacking in power (all included tips were small) so I ordered some genuine JBC tips from my local supplier. They just arrived today and I tried out the first one a big 4.8 Chisel tip, all worked fine and it soldered like a dream. After this I tried a C245-944 1.8 x 0.8 chisel tip. It seemed to work fine, I soldered some high power pins and it flowed fine, but then I heldt the handle upside down with the tip inbetween two pins when suddenly the tip started glowing red hot like the included image: (not my image).

After this I tested one of the included tips and it heated up fine, but the moment I started moving it inside my metal cleaning sponge it started glowing red hot as well. I assume this must be something with the fake handle and the orignal tips causing this?

[mastershake]

i dont have that model handle but if it only happens when you hold the handle that way then yeah best guess would be something loose / shorting inside the handle they come apart pretty easy

[SHTechnics]

Seems like you have a defective handle. Most T3A/B owners use original JBC tips and don't have that problem.
I switch between JBC tips all the time and never had an issue.

Also dormancy mode works perfect on the T3A with JBC tips.

[Marc007]

Inspired by cfg5 user I made modification to new aixun t3a stand. I like the fact that I can change tips quickly same as with jbc stand.

[Ungolian]

I ordered a T3A in early january and have been using it a bit. It has worked okay with the included tips, a bit lacking in power (all included tips were small) so I ordered some genuine JBC tips from my local supplier. They just arrived today and I tried out the first one a big 4.8 Chisel tip, all worked fine and it soldered like a dream. After this I tried a C245-944 1.8 x 0.8 chisel tip. It seemed to work fine, I soldered some high power pins and it flowed fine, but then I heldt the handle upside down with the tip inbetween two pins when suddenly the tip started glowing red hot like the included image: (Attachment Link) (not my image).

After this I tested one of the included tips and it heated up fine, but the moment I started moving it inside my metal cleaning sponge it started glowing red hot as well. I assume this must be something with the fake handle and the orignal tips causing this?

There really isn't anything inside the handle except 3 sets of forks that make contact with the tip, and the wiring.  Yes, the forks can get bent out of alignment, but the orientation of the handle shouldn't have any effect on that.  It should always be bad.  As we've seen before, the soldering in the units can be questionable, and the handles are probably the same way.  I'd guess there is a stray piece of solder or wire inside the handle that is moving around and making contact when held vertically.  Can you hear anything rattling around inside?  Maybe tap it on a table without a tip inserted and see if you can get something to fall out.  Otherwise, just get a new handle and test it for a while with the included cheap tips.

[cgf5]

Seems like new dual channel T245/T210 soldering station is being released - Aixun T420D. Information is rather light for now. It seems to have transformer (toroid) based power supply instead of switching? 200W rated power is bit unclear - 200W shared or for each channel?

[Marc007]

Its a bit pricey unit...

[rosaage]

There really isn't anything inside the handle except 3 sets of forks that make contact with the tip, and the wiring.  Yes, the forks can get bent out of alignment, but the orientation of the handle shouldn't have any effect on that.  It should always be bad.  As we've seen before, the soldering in the units can be questionable, and the handles are probably the same way.  I'd guess there is a stray piece of solder or wire inside the handle that is moving around and making contact when held vertically.  Can you hear anything rattling around inside?  Maybe tap it on a table without a tip inserted and see if you can get something to fall out.  Otherwise, just get a new handle and test it for a while with the included cheap tips.

No rattle sounds, it seems fine and solid. Tried pushing cartridges in and out and rotating, but I can't feel anything special. I'll probably just order a new handle and see if that works better. Since it also happened with the included ones afterwards I think I can try the new tips with the unit off first to be sure.
https://youtu.be/fr8UT9MZfIs As seen in the video the power bar jumps between 0 and 100%.

[mastershake]

one of the handles i had they did not use heatshrink on inside and there was a short. i re soldered the leads with a bit of heat shrink on them. it didnt cause me any overheating issues though. in this case the unit did not see the handle attached. id still recc opening the handle just to take a peak. it only takes a couple minutes

[rosaage]

one of the handles i had they did not use heatshrink on inside and there was a short. i re soldered the leads with a bit of heat shrink on them. it didnt cause me any overheating issues though. in this case the unit did not see the handle attached. id still recc opening the handle just to take a peak. it only takes a couple minutes

I did open the handle now, and it seems like maybe one of the three contacts was rotated a bit and was touching another contact. It seems like it works ok now. It looks kind of like the holes and grooves in the plastic are a bit larger than the metal connectors so they have a bit too much room to move around inside.

[Ungolian]

Seems like new dual channel T245/T210 soldering station is being released - Aixun T420D. Information is rather light for now. It seems to have transformer (toroid) based power supply instead of switching? 200W rated power is bit unclear - 200W shared or for each channel?

Looks like they are competing with themselves.  Why would you buy this for (probably) $400+ when you can buy both a T3A and T3B for under $300?  Both units stacked on top of each other would also take up less space.  Not to mention questionable parts and sharing power and screen in one unit...  If something happens, both sides become useless.  The price, QC, and reputation of JBC makes that unlikely.  The same can't be said of Aixun. 

[Akbar]

Had a good 3 month run before it started to malfunction..... I guess the buy nice or buy twice has come after me...... The soldering station no longer responds to the setback and when placed in the stand the temperature reading jumps...  I checked electrically and it seemed fine and tried forcing it by connecting the stand terminal to ground and still nothing.... Looking inside I found a cap that seems to be on its way out which is a sad since I sparingly use it... The soldering iron is able to dump heat into a wet sponge drawing max power without issues and maintains ~23V according to the read-out so I don't see that being the immediate cause

 Disassembly ain't fun with the heavily glued front panel which I broke..... so now I have given up on something I really liked while it lasted.....

[yelkvi]

The soldering iron is able to dump heat into a wet sponge drawing max power without issues and maintains ~23V according to the read-out so I don't see that being the immediate cause

The capacitor, of course, must be replaced. But it is not the cause of the malfunction.
I wrote here earlier that I have a similar malfunction - the controller does not see that the soldering iron handle is placed on the stand. More precisely, the controller sees, but does not react (does not go into sleep mode).
So I'm not the only one with such a malfunction.

[exe]

I hope the signal from the stand doesn't go directly to the MCU pin, as it would be easy to damage it with ESD...

[SHTechnics]

Had a good 3 month run before it started to malfunction..... I guess the buy nice or buy twice has come after me...... The soldering station no longer responds to the setback and when placed in the stand the temperature reading jumps...  I checked electrically and it seemed fine and tried forcing it by connecting the stand terminal to ground and still nothing.... Looking inside I found a cap that seems to be on its way out which is a sad since I sparingly use it... The soldering iron is able to dump heat into a wet sponge drawing max power without issues and maintains ~23V according to the read-out so I don't see that being the immediate cause

 Disassembly ain't fun with the heavily glued front panel which I broke..... so now I have given up on something I really liked while it lasted.....

That's why me and others directly replaced all the caps. Btw: you can access it from the rear, you need little pliers or hook to unplug the plug on the front panel after which you can slide out the PSU. I've replace all the caps without removing the front.

Which version is noted on the back of the frontpcb? V1.1 or V1.2?

[Akbar]

It is a version 1.1, I was able to remove the front panel after accepting that It would be blank.... I traced out the circuit and from what I was measuring the Stand sense wire is connected to the +V supply via a resistor, the other side goes into the MCU, there is a diode for reverse protection. ESD was also my first thought, I traced out for a while and could find 0 issues..... The MCU pin where it is likely sensing the connection to ground read ~0.6V which means it is probably fine.

I am real confused on why the stand wire causes the temperature reading to change and why it is not detecting it... For now I have given up on trying to reverse engineer and find the issue.... I tried running it off a bench power supply and the same issue was present, so the bad capacitor isn't the culprit as i thought. I mainly stopped after I ran into the PNP transistor which seemed like the power supply for the MCU as that being faulty would not allow everything else to function normally

[ag20202]

Is anyone able to confirm pinout for the T3A to use a 907/936 style handle? I want to use one I already have but can't get it to recognise the handle, so I must have it hooked up incorrectly.

[Akbar]

Inspired by cfg5 user I made modification to new aixun t3a stand. I like the fact that I can change tips quickly same as with jbc stand.

why get rid of the set back wire

[ag20202]

Hmm, Im doing the attachments wrong, I'm putting them as inline expandable but i must be messing it up.
936 Handle
Not much to say about this one as likely no one else is probably going to buy one. I plugged it in to see if it worked and that's likely all the use it will see. Not a great fit in the stand, but sleeps right away as its all grounded. Has a cartridge/plug in heater. I will have to see if I can find spares anywhere.

I have the 245 New stand coming even though I don't mind the cheap one that came with it. Also have two TB3's coming, looking forward to checking them out.
I have very little time on this unit but so far I'm pretty happy. I recommended the KSGER stations before but they have really started to climb in price. So far this these stations seem to be a pretty good value.
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I know the 936 is not a popular handle these days, but I use one for threaded inserts. I have a genuine JBC T245 handle for the T3A.  I thought I'd try and get a clone 936/709 handle working too, but based on the images in this old post, it seems the Aixun 936 handle has only 3 wires going to the gx12. Can I assume then that this handle is not a common all garden 936 handle? My clone has 5 cores, so must be a thermocouple type I guess? Does anyone know how to identify the correct type of clone 936 handle to buy? Buying it from aixun is way overpriced and it's surely just a rewire job using an off the shelf cheap clone handle.

[cgf5]

Yes, all handles seems to be "aixun special" this is due to the handle auto detection and also because different manufacturers have their own sleep detection. Don't expect other handles to just work. You need specific aixun handle or modify handle from different brand.

All handle have thermocouple and basic 3 wires = thermocouple + heater power + shared gnd. If your other brand handle has more then there is perhaps extra tilt switch (or some alternative) in the handle for sleep detection. I don't think you can easily tell what if what unless you take handle apart or find out the pinout of the other handle from someone else.

[Lord Theron]

I am trying to build the Jbc (210) station from clones , so I ordered from aliexpress the control board module, the soldering iron and the psu(12V,6A).

Now I have open the soldering iron handle and I can see 3 wires connected at the end to 3 copper slots and one bridge on the aviation connector.

The problem is the connection diagram showing that pin 1 and pin 4 have to touch the second ring of the soldering iron tip and pins 2 and 5 the first ring of soldering iron tip.

Is it ok to bridge on the aviation connector or is better to order a cable with 4 o 5 wires and solder it on the 3 copper slots?

Also pin 3 it is for identification of the handle and in the diagram it is floating! So I believe that should be manual set up..?

The negative pole of the soldering iron tip is the thin one or the one in the middle?

So, what do you advise me to do ?

[SAGOLSEN]

Can I ask a dumb question.  When replacing capacitors in the T3A's power supply, is it OK to replace C1 (image attached) with a 200V or 250V rated capacitor?  For use with 120V line input only.

I noticed that C1, a big 82 uF capacitor is rated 400 V and I believe that voltage rating is derived from the max input voltage of 240V, so I'm hoping I can use a 250V rated cap instead.

I'll try to attach an image here so at least you can see what I'm talking about.  C1 is the large one near the middle of the picture.