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Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?

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The chisel seems to be the best general use for me.
I have the C245-773 and C245-770 original tips.
Both leave the chinese ones in the dust. Even the small 773 is better that the knife from T3A box.
I'm waiting for the C245-755 to do some major melting ;D

I haven't seen any discussions about the L245 soldering pen that has better contact to the tip and I find it better suited for me as it's portable with a 20v supply brick.
There is a review on "SDG Electronics" channel.
It has a NCE30P25S as the driving mosfet.
Just as important the is no buzzing as the contacts seems to be more stable. I can't see any difference from T3A to the L245 in driving original tips, both do great.
In the end I have desolderer the usb c connector and feed wires directly to the pcb as there was a 1V drop with the connector.

al777 Thank you for sharing your ESD protection design. I am waiting on my station to arrive, and I wanted to know what hole size you used for J2 and J3, the Ground and Input lines. I don't have the station in to measure the screw size and wanted to get a board designed asap. Also, what gauge wires are used back there? I noticed you crimped some connectors, and I wanted to get everything done nice and properly like yours, but I need to know what size connectors to get.

For the front panel, I saw a teardown where it looks like there is not much room to put anything. Since I would rather not have an external box that has to be plugged in, would a surface-mount TVS diode soldered directly on the connector pins and ground be sufficient?

Hi Brando753, the actual holes diameter is 6.4mm, between-centers distance is 14mm. But I'd strongly recommend to wait for the station to arrive and measure factual dimensions. It would be frustrating to get PCB manufactured and then find that AiXun have made minor adjustments to the back panel and called it version xx.yy+1 ...

I don't recall what the wire gauge was - I used the original wiring, just re-soldered connections on the back edge of PSU board (they were subpar), and snipped off one of the ring terminals as one wire was to be soldered into the new PCB after my modification. For the one additional wire - its gauge is not critical, it only carries current for the LED in the optocoupler (~2 mA) and both ends are soldered, no crimping on that one either.

As for putting the TVS inside of the connector - I assume you are thinking about putting a TVS into the handle's connector... If so - then the answer is no, it will not be a proper ESD protection. The problem is: if your handle, while disconnected from the base, have gained significant ESD potential - the TVS in the handle will not be effective, as it is not having a path to ground for ESD potential to be discharged to. Until the handle is connected to the base, of course... but when you connect the handle there is no guarantee that the ground pin will make contact first... so, your ESD-charged wires leading to MCU inputs may make contact first and the ESD event will happily occur, frying your MCU input(s) before the ground pin have made its contact thus "enabling" TVS protection... A kludgy attempt to mitigate that would be to have a longer pin for ground in the connector (similar to how USB-A male power pins are longer than the data pins), but that is both unrealistic with the GX connector and simply not an elegant engineering solution. Hence - either open up the front panel and modify the MCU PCB, or go the route I went for. Good luck and have fun doing whatever you will choose to do!

Hooray! I repair my Aixun T3A. If you remember, then my port in the processor, which is responsible for the "Dormancy" mode, failed.
Thanks to Dreamcat4 for the link to purchase the processor on Aliexpress.
The GD32F305RET6 processor was mounted at the factory, dreamcat4 wrote that GD32F303RCT6 is enough - it is cheaper.
I put it on.
I flashed it with a Chinese ST-Link V2 programmer using the STM32 ST-Link utility program under Windows 10.
The program does not determine the type of processor, but nevertheless flashes it correctly. Program settings in the photo 4.
The chip (if necessary) was erased separately beforehand.
Special thanks to c0d3z3r0 for the firmware file.


--- Quote from: yelkvi on February 09, 2023, 09:45:14 am ---Special thanks to c0d3z3r0 for the firmware file.

--- End quote ---

Nice, great to know my "DRM" bypass works :D


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