Author Topic: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?  (Read 229683 times)

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Offline tireX

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #800 on: May 05, 2023, 09:22:52 am »
Hi Ireun,

Had you a chance to troubleshoot the connector problem you mentioned, during T3A usage. I bought same soldering station and have very same problems plus extra unusual issue - flashing LCD every few minutes while the unit is off :)
Did you notice that strange behaviour with your station?
I have checked M16 connector and it looks fine, front PCB with soldered connector also looks fine.

Don't think this was IreuN.    No history in their posts about this.    What do you mean by "while unit is off"?  By off you mean off-off, no power?   I'd replace power switch and see if its still happening.  If so then means its getting power from mains somehow.  I'd assume something is wired wrong internal to allow this to happen but im no expert.   There are schematics of the unit by codezero posted in this thread somewhere. 


If you just recently bought the unit, i would reach out to the place you bought it from.  Most reputable aliexpress sellers will try to make it right.   Worst case reach out to Aixun support with video if your issue and maybe they will offer a replacement unit or something.

It was IreuN, he posted that he bought newer version of this station and mentioned about different issues.
And yes, I mean real "off off" - main switch at the back of the unit is on 0 - means no power. Only thing that comes to my mind is that the circuit is "propelled" by tiny capacitance inside main switch that make power supply start working for milisecond every few minutes. I'll post a short video later on
 

Offline IreuN

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #801 on: May 05, 2023, 11:53:19 am »
It was me, yes, and I fixed it.

The 'turn off' switch only disconnects one of the input lines, I see You're from Poland, usually if the grounding bolt PE of your wall socket is on the top, then L should be on the left, and N should be on the right, unfortunately the IEC cable I was using would flip that, so the turn off switch on Aixun would actually disconnect the N line and not L line. That combined with SWPS would result in such behavior - the screen would momentarily turn on for no reason.

You can fix that in a few ways:
1. Swap the L/N cables coming from the IEC female socket to the SWPS ( this is what I did ), I've used screwdriver to pray the cramped connectors out.
2. Swap the L/N in your wall socket (if it's like I described above then I would not recommend this way)
3. Buy/make IEC cable that would flip L/N lines

About the second problem.. The station sometimes freaking out when there is no tip in it - no luck, probably busted handle, though it's quite rare, so I don't care.
Aixun Firmware Changelog: https://aixun-updates.github.io/
 
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Offline jbf

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #802 on: May 07, 2023, 05:20:24 am »
Using the work that @al777 did on his ESD protection adapter he did for the front of the station, I went and designed a PCB for it.

I'm not an expert at PCB design so if anyone spots anything on this let me know if you think I should make some changes.   

The heater cable with +24V on it is routed on the bottom side with a large polygon fill plane to ensure it can handle large amperage.   Its my understanding that the cable can carry as much as 8-9 amps?   (24V / 200w)

As a starting point, I'm thinking the through holes for the base and handle wires may be too large.   Let me know your thoughts.

If anyone else wants this I'm going to be ordering pcbs from JLPCB and happy to share the gerber and eagle files. 

I'll also be designing and printing a 3D printed enclosure similar to al777's version.  I'll share that once its done as well.  It'll all probably go onto a printables upload with both schematic, pcb files, and .stl files.
« Last Edit: May 07, 2023, 05:26:40 am by jbf »
 

Offline mastershake

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #803 on: May 07, 2023, 11:22:12 am »
so a friend just got his t3a and he opened it up to take a peek inside but only took the back off. he said his front board says v1.4 vs all of the ones i have seen that are 1.0 or 1.2. he doesnt want to pull the front off though (he is not very good at stuff like that and still very new to taking things apart and is afraid he will break the front panel. i asked him to bring it by and let me do it he is thinking about it if he does ill take pics but im wondering what they changed vs the 1.2. i can not promise he will let me but i will continue to ask. in the meantime if anyone gets one with 1.4 can you please post some pics if you are willing to take it apart. i may order one since we use them every day (along with the 420d stations) but i dont know if i will for sure get the new board and i really dont "need" more of them lol i have 12 already and one extra for parts. all of mine are 1.2 i have already checked them all. my t3as should be here soon and i can get some pics of that one. my second p3208 just got here so i can take one of those apart now to check out the insides. with only one the guys didnt want me taking it apart lol but i can sat the 3208 is def a much nicer unit then the 2 series was. if you are considering one of those def go with the 3208 vs the 2 series for the little but of extra money imo.
 
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Offline jbf

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #804 on: May 08, 2023, 05:53:37 am »
so a friend just got his t3a and he opened it up to take a peek inside but only took the back off. he said his front board says v1.4 vs all of the ones i have seen that are 1.0 or 1.2. he doesnt want to pull the front off though (he is not very good at stuff like that and still very new to taking things apart and is afraid he will break the front panel. i asked him to bring it by and let me do it he is thinking about it if he does ill take pics but im wondering what they changed vs the 1.2. i can not promise he will let me but i will continue to ask. in the meantime if anyone gets one with 1.4 can you please post some pics if you are willing to take it apart. i may order one since we use them every day (along with the 420d stations) but i dont know if i will for sure get the new board and i really dont "need" more of them lol i have 12 already and one extra for parts. all of mine are 1.2 i have already checked them all. my t3as should be here soon and i can get some pics of that one. my second p3208 just got here so i can take one of those apart now to check out the insides. with only one the guys didnt want me taking it apart lol but i can sat the 3208 is def a much nicer unit then the 2 series was. if you are considering one of those def go with the 3208 vs the 2 series for the little but of extra money imo.

My version was a 1.2 ordered from easyphonefix a week ago.   

Also for anyone wondering I confirmed 936 style handle works.   I found one U.S. seller selling the 936 style handles.

Here's the bad news though.   The heating element is a 3-pin cartridge style which turns out... is discontinued according to every aliexpress cartridge seller I've contacted.  So if you get one of these handles, if the cartridge goes out your out of luck.
The pinout i attached thatsomeone posted a while back is accurate.

What's most odd is, supposedly Pin 2 on the GX12-5 connector is the thermocouple pin.  Yet, on this cartridge the wire is jumped from pin 5 and pin 2. Pin 5 is the + heater line, so I don't think this handle actually has temperature sensor / feedback.  I'm actually thinking this Aixun handle might be a 2 pin cartridge with the third pin being the tip ground?  If so then they are just giving it power based on an estimated temperature curve i guess?   

Ultimately that doesnt matter to me, I just want to the handle for heatset inserts, but what a waste if cartridge dies.    If anyone has insight on how one might rewire a 4 pin cartridge (which are the only ones that exist now) for the Aixun handle let me know.

I reached out directly to Aixun to see if they have a place cartridges can be made, or at least if they can give a wiring diagram of how another 936 handle can be wired, etc.   
« Last Edit: May 08, 2023, 05:58:25 am by jbf »
 

Offline dreamcat4

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #805 on: May 08, 2023, 06:10:56 am »
well i was reading on the amazon customer reviews section the other day that you can get some cheap ($3) T12 BC3 tips, and then file the ends down a bit, then turn the remaining diameter to make *some* of the heatsert sizes

it may work for M4 and M3 sizes. However of course something a larger diameter such as M5 or M6 may be beyond the maximum diameter of a standard T12 BC3 tip.

Furthermore it is not clear whether this approach is suitable for C245 style chinese cartridges. Which themselves typically costs more than the cheaper T12 tips.

So IDK, but am inclined to have a go and try sometime. Since it's less problematic than trying to accomodate some 936 handle, which no longer has any other purpose
 

Offline jbf

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #806 on: May 08, 2023, 06:38:04 am »
well i was reading on the amazon customer reviews section the other day that you can get some cheap ($3) T12 BC3 tips, and then file the ends down a bit, then turn the remaining diameter to make *some* of the heatsert sizes

it may work for M4 and M3 sizes. However of course something a larger diameter such as M5 or M6 may be beyond the maximum diameter of a standard T12 BC3 tip.

Furthermore it is not clear whether this approach is suitable for C245 style chinese cartridges. Which themselves typically costs more than the cheaper T12 tips.

So IDK, but am inclined to have a go and try sometime. Since it's less problematic than trying to accomodate some 936 handle, which no longer has any other purpose

This is an interesting idea. It would be great if some of the cartridge makers actually would make heat staking cartridges for heatset inserts.   JBC has a couple but they are for plastic rivets and not for brass inserts.


After reading more about thermocouples I did some experiments on the Aixun 936 3-pin cartridge and surprise!  The 3 pin cartridge is something special.  It looks like Pin 3 on the heater cartridge (which connects to pin 5 and 2), doubles as a thermocouple and heating element.

When I measured mV on Pin 2 (T) and pin 4 (GND), if I apply heat with a lighter or hair dryer on the heating element, it increases the mV output.   As it cools it decreases, which is what a thermocouple does as well.

My guess is the heating element cartridge pinout is:    Pin 1 or 2 are GNDS.  One being thermocouple GND, and another being heater GND and Pin 3 is the heater pos(+) and thermocouple pos(+).

If that's the case you should easily be able to wire up any other cartridge handle to a 936.   

GX12-5 pinout then becomes:

Pin 1:  NC
Pin 2:  TC Pos (+)
Pin 3:   4K Resistor connected to Pin 4 (GND)
Pin 4:   Heater and TC GNDS combined
Pin 5:   Heater Pos (+)

[UPDATE]
Just received this diagram for Aixun on their 936 wiring diagram.   Looks like its using a two-wire cartridge here?    Anyone have info on this specific cartridge type?  How would temperature be sensed with this one?

What are others thoughts on this?
« Last Edit: May 08, 2023, 07:14:25 am by jbf »
 

Offline mastershake

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #807 on: May 08, 2023, 07:23:09 pm »
936like i said aixun told me directly they dont plan to support the 936 now so i highly doubt they will bother. i could be wrong but i was told this directly by them.
 

Offline Joebeazelman

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #808 on: May 10, 2023, 03:25:47 am »
936like i said aixun told me directly they dont plan to support the 936 now so i highly doubt they will bother. i could be wrong but i was told this directly by them.
I’m glad I stumbled upon this discussion. I am also in search of the pinout for the Aixun T3A. I bought one with the T245 handle and three tips, but I want to rewire it for my T12 and 907 soldering irons. I have some valuable insights to share about soldering stations that can save you a lot of headaches. Manufacturers are not forthright about the technical details of their stations, but a lot can be gleaned from their manuals.

The terms “thermistor” and “thermocouple” are often used interchangeably even by manufacturers, but are significantly different. Thermistors increase in resistance in response to temperature changes whereas thermocouples generate voltage. The low-cost Fakkos as well as the old Hakkos 907-type soldering handles typically use thermistors, while modern, high-end cartridge-type T12, T245, and some newer 907-type handles use thermocouples. The handle’s compatibility with a given soldering station is determined by its sensor type and wiring. As a rule, all cartridge-type handles use thermocouples, for other types of soldering equipment, it’s difficult to tell without close inspection.

Thermistors are simpler to measure, but their accuracy is typically lower. One circuit supplies 24V to the heater coil for heating, while another supplies a low voltage through the thermistor. The voltage drop read has a near-linear correlation with the temperature. The heater is regulated by cycling the power on and off, or by adjusting the supplied voltage. Thermocouple controllers can be made using basic analog or digital circuits.

Thermocouples provide higher accuracy but require more complex sensing circuitry. Like thermistors, the heater and thermocouple can be in separate wires with the heater supplied with 24V while the thermocouple is read. In a series configuration, however, power is intermittently cut off to the heater, allowing the small voltage generated by the thermocouple to be read. This method protects the sensing circuit from the heater's higher voltages.

If a thermocouple-type handle is connected to a thermistor-based controller, the heating will be minimal as the controller detects little resistance across the thermocouple. Alternatively, if a thermistor-type handle is wired to a thermocouple-based controller, the handle will heat up fast to a cherry red in just less than a minute. This is because the controller detects little to no current from the thermistor. Unfortunately, the author of this article was unaware of this important detail:

https://www.instructables.com/Soldering-to-Desoldering-Station-Hack/
« Last Edit: May 10, 2023, 05:50:06 am by Joebeazelman »
 
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Offline Joebeazelman

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #809 on: May 10, 2023, 05:23:20 am »
Thermocouple-type heating elements can have 4 or 2 wires. Occasionally, there's a also separate grounding wire for the tip, but for the sake of simplicity it's ignored, since its wired to either the common or to the chassis. The first has two separate circuits with two wires for the heater (+-) and two for the thermocouple (+-). The latter uses a single wire for both the heater and the thermocouple and are wired in series. You can convert a 4 wire heating element by wiring the heater in series with the thermocouple at either the heating element or at the handle, although it's better to do it closer to the thermocouple. Some 2 wire heating elements have wires that can be untwisted into 4 wires.

Technically, you can use any thermocouple-type 907 handle or heating element on the vast majority of two wire stations (within wattage specs),but not always the other way around. This because some 4 wire stations supply current to the heater and thermocouple simultaneously. This can only be done if they are separate circuits to avoid damaging the sensing circuit due to the heater's higher current. Two wire stations alternate between supplying current to the heater and thermocouple over the same wire.
« Last Edit: May 10, 2023, 05:58:48 am by Joebeazelman »
 
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Offline jbf

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #810 on: May 10, 2023, 06:39:34 am »
Thermocouple-type heating elements can have 4 or 2 wires. Occasionally, there's a also separate grounding wire for the tip, but for the sake of simplicity it's ignored, since its wired to either the common or to the chassis. The first has two separate circuits with two wires for the heater (+-) and two for the thermocouple (+-). The latter uses a single wire for both the heater and the thermocouple and are wired in series. You can convert a 4 wire heating element by wiring the heater in series with the thermocouple at either the heating element or at the handle, although it's better to do it closer to the thermocouple. Some 2 wire heating elements have wires that can be untwisted into 4 wires.

Technically, you can use any thermocouple-type 907 handle or heating element on the vast majority of two wire stations (within wattage specs),but not always the other way around. This because some 4 wire stations supply current to the heater and thermocouple simultaneously. This can only be done if they are separate circuits to avoid damaging the sensing circuit due to the heater's higher current. Two wire stations alternate between supplying current to the heater and thermocouple over the same wire.

From what you are saying, and the diagram sent to me by Aixun, it seems the T3A is a two wire station then. 

Interesting thing noted is I found in the comments section of a youtube video by SegaHolic found this same pinout diagram Aixun sent me on this aliexpress listing for a 245, T12, 936 solder station ocontroller:  https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802194508944.html

He apparently wired up his own using a two heater cartridge per the pinout diagram I posted earlier and it worked but ran 150C above stated value.   Not sure why that would be, maybe its a resistance difference or wattage mismatch? 

 

Offline Joebeazelman

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #811 on: May 11, 2023, 03:28:06 am »
The Aixun t3a definitely supports 2 wire and 4 wire heaters where it alternates between heating and sensing. It might also support 4 wire heaters where heating and sensing occur simultaneously on separate wires, but the controller would need to operate in a different mode. Looking at the wire diagrams, it looks like it has 4 wires wired in series to a 2 wire heaters. My Aoyue has a 4 wire thermocouple heater, but I have never tested it to see if it alternates.

You should be able to wire either a 4 or 2 wire THERMOCOUPLE heater without issue. Just make sure the polarity is correct. If you're looking for a 907 thermocouple heater and handle, look for the Aoyue 968a+ heating element. They're 4 wire and under $10. Be careful, however, do not make the mistake of getting a thermistor based heater. Your iron will glow bright red.

Can you forward me the video of the guy who wired his own handle to the Aixun? I'm curious about the high temperatures.I'll share what might be the issue.
« Last Edit: May 11, 2023, 03:37:35 am by Joebeazelman »
 
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Offline jbf

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #812 on: May 11, 2023, 03:50:39 am »
The info was in a comment thread.  Posted screenshot below of it.

The video is just a random video of the user testing the T3A station with only background music.

https://youtu.be/KYkHOsyAPLU
 

Offline jbf

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #813 on: May 25, 2023, 04:53:33 am »
Hey all,

Looking to add dreamcat4 and others mod of adding a GX 12-5 connector in place of the 24VDC jack, then modding the stand to have two GX12-5 connectors (one to rear base connector, and one for handle).

Tips on removing front glass?
I understand to heat the front glass glue to 180C using a hot air station, but how did others go about this? Did you use any specific tools such as a suction cup or something else?

I've seen videos of people chipping the corners of the glass when using a pry tool and I want to avoid that at all costs.
 

Offline dreamcat4

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #814 on: May 25, 2023, 07:18:03 am »
well i did not chip my glass, even while prrying with a lot of force. but to be clear if that is a concern then start off with plastic pry tool. of which there are a few types. then thin stainless. then thick stainless

but you do not want to do this. the problem with excessive force is not the risk of chipping. the problem is that the glue is over the whole area of the face which isnt cut away. and that is stuck onto a very thin soft aluminium chassis piece. that is recessese just behind the glass. so excessive prying the glass will deform and bend that too-weak alu carrrier elemnt.

now that isnt actually the problem, because if the alu gets mishapen you can of course just straighten it back out afterwards. no what the problem i found was with the 4 hidden tiny m2.5 screws that are actually holding this alu carrier inner face plate. the more you pry, the more you tug towards you. if the force is too much then you will actually rip out those tiny m2.5 screw threads from the soft and wafer thin  aluminium. these are located near the 4 corners of the face plate

so the solution of course is not to start prying too soon. and to use more temperature and a longer heating time than you think would be needed. make certain that all of that too strong adhesive is really thoroughly melted before begin prying. and do not worry about any plastic component there. because there is not any in direct contact.

you might want to select thin stainless steel as the pry tool here. and to start the operation by prying over the whole right hand edge. because that is where most of the glue is. so where it will be most difficult if the glue has not given out yet.

if you make an attempt it does not shift then you need to continue heating for longer and/or go a bit hotter. until that super strong (why?) glue is really really melted. and most of all dont loose your patience and end up applying an excessive force too soon. because that will incur those stated damage. and the carrier alu is thinnest and weakest around the lcd display edge, you will see. but it has a much thinner line of glue there. so that is nothing that isnt going to be short work at the end with a wide pry tool from those nearby edges

no the problem and the main area to be heating with the gun is where those potentiometer and buttons are located over to the right. oh... i suppose the 2 smallest buttons you cannot remove. they are plastic... so you know. try keep a bit away from them with direct hot air. but you still need to be hitting that whole right side with the hot air.

the glass itself felt quite tough however. it can bend a fair bit too heck a lot. and so it seems to be like the kind of a glass they use on smartphones. if you have ever played with that stuff. it is relatively strong stuff. (within its limits of course, so dont be too reckless, and it should be fine)
« Last Edit: May 25, 2023, 07:28:32 am by dreamcat4 »
 

Offline jbf

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #815 on: May 25, 2023, 08:06:42 am »

… so the solution of course is not to start prying too soon. and to use more temperature and a longer heating time than you think would be needed. make certain that all of that too strong adhesive is really thoroughly melted before begin prying. and do not worry about any plastic component there. because there is not any in direct contact.

This is so helpful Dreamcat.   Do you remember what temperatures in genera you used for heating?
 

Offline dreamcat4

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #816 on: May 25, 2023, 08:13:20 am »
No. but most adhesives let go in the 60-100c range. for a hot air setting you have to be significantly higher than the target temp. due to the poor thermal transfer of air... so therefore 180 sounds about right. it isn't so exact science
 
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Offline c0d3z3r0

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #817 on: May 25, 2023, 08:38:54 am »
180 °C is too much and you risk killing your display like me :/
Use 100-120 °C and do not apply too much heat on the center, where the display is.
To remove the display I used a combination of a suction cup and one of these ultra-thin metal spudger pry tools. Using a thin plastic spudger might be more safe.

I completely removed the thick old glue, cleaned the glass with IPA and reglued only with a few tiny (!) spots of T7000 glue on the edges. This makes it waaaaaaaay easier to remove the glass again later.
AiXun T3A reverse engineering: https://github.com/c0d3z3r0/aixun_t3a_rev
AiXun T3x F(L)OSS update tool: https://github.com/c0d3z3r0/aixun_t3x_updater
 
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Offline dreamcat4

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #818 on: May 25, 2023, 09:59:27 am »
this is one of those counter intuitive things whereby a lower temperature can be worse, if it requires you to heat soak the entire target object at an 'unsafe' temperature for a longer time. but what constitutes as unsafe for that lcd is not so easy to answer question. perhaps low given those plastics used on it.

anyhow as per reflow profiles doctrine, you can do a prolonged warming at a much lower 'safe zone' heat soaking temp. that is below the tolerance threshold of the lcd. which definately will be very helpful to weaken that adhesive

then after that if it still does not budge. then rather tan pry too hard, and risk those physical damage. then a briefer ramp up period for hitting the right hand side quickly at a higher temp. but only briefly, and in a controlled fashion at which point you can make a pry attempt. and in a time window before that final phase heating has had time to propagate and soak over to the lcd on the left hand side. personally i never encountered such lcd heating issue because my own heating was not sufficient... hence the other issue was encountered.

if you haven't blasted that section enough your pry attempt failed. so the decision is either to keep heating (and risk damaging the lcd). or to abandon the attempt (because it was not sufficient). and then wait for the whole thing to cool off and rest. before trying again as another seperate attempt

it all sounds more challenging than it actually is... i would put the skill level at low-medium since you have already been informed these things. the layout and everything behind it. wheras i did not know any such stuff... mine still works though. despite then 1-2 stripped screws. it wasn't so bad the effect of those specific damages in the end
« Last Edit: May 25, 2023, 10:01:52 am by dreamcat4 »
 
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Offline duzycinek

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #819 on: May 29, 2023, 04:57:32 pm »
Hello, my T3A is very noisy while heating. Is there any way to fix this? Recapping, or other changes will help?
 

Offline CDN_Hussar

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #820 on: May 30, 2023, 12:46:52 pm »
Looks like the Aixun T3AS are starting to appear on AliEx.  Who is getting one?
Is the T3AS a big improvement from the T3A?
 

Offline 3DBeerGoggles

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #821 on: June 03, 2023, 06:39:42 pm »
So I noticed Handskit is making a T12 tweezer iron - of course, with the warning that most T12 stations can't supply the 120W it normally demands.
Aside from the less-than-perfect temperature regulation of having the thermocouples in parallel, any reason why it wouldn't work with the T3A? Only thing that comes to mind would be to rewire the plug to ID as a T12 handle.
 

Offline jbf

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #822 on: June 03, 2023, 08:05:22 pm »
Hey everyone,

Finished up the T3A ESDprotector PCB and 3d printed case. 

Here's a quick preview of it.    Will be organizing better images and will upload the files to a github repo and a printables.com page including pcb gerber files for anyone who wants to have this same setup made.

Attached to station:
1797476-0

Closeup of Box:
1797482-1

Lid Removed:
1797488-2

Example of paint-filling the case:
1797494-3

CAD of 3D case models:
1797500-4
[Attatch=6]

Print Layout
1797512-5

For my purposes I'm adding a second GX12-5 cable port to the back of my T3A unit in place of the old 24V DC barrel jack so this ESD protector box can be run from behind the station.
 

Offline jbf

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #823 on: June 03, 2023, 11:18:50 pm »
 
The following users thanked this post: SHTechnics

Offline 3DBeerGoggles

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Re: Any opinions on the AiXun T3A?
« Reply #824 on: June 30, 2023, 08:13:44 pm »
Soldering tweezers for the T3A!

Now I've seen some people make T12-based soldering tweezers, with the compromise that their temp sensors will average out in parallel so electrically it's mainly a matter of running them in parallel with a station that has the power to run them - the T3A certainly doesn't lack for that!

Starting with Handskit's "T12 Soldering Station Tweezers" that they offer for their own soldering stations:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005237804789.html



These are basically a set of T12 sockets with a tweezer mechanism, and sold with a warning that lower-power stations can burn out trying to feed it.

The cartridges are shorter than a standard T12, which is nice compared to making my own handle that would have to make up for the extra length of standard tips.
Referring to I Broke It Again's post (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/any-opinions-on-the-aixun-t3a/msg3811343/#msg3811343) as well as the newer T12 iron I have on hand I rewired the Handskit to ID to the station that it's a T12 iron, and it works a treat
Note: Newer T12 handles don't bother with the mercury switch, and the Handskit doesn't even bother with a wire to pin1 anyways, so leave it out.


Temperature accuracy seems okay going by my inexpensive thermocouple unit
It ID's as a T12 as per the screen, and standby functionality works as expected.

So if you have a T3A and would like some at least functional thermotweezers, for the low cost of $24 CAD and a 10K resistor

Gotta say that it's the quickest time I've ever had for removing an SMD ceramic.

« Last Edit: July 01, 2023, 05:04:40 am by 3DBeerGoggles »
 


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