well i was reading on the amazon customer reviews section the other day that you can get some cheap ($3) T12 BC3 tips, and then file the ends down a bit, then turn the remaining diameter to make *some* of the heatsert sizes
it may work for M4 and M3 sizes. However of course something a larger diameter such as M5 or M6 may be beyond the maximum diameter of a standard T12 BC3 tip.
Furthermore it is not clear whether this approach is suitable for C245 style chinese cartridges. Which themselves typically costs more than the cheaper T12 tips.
So IDK, but am inclined to have a go and try sometime. Since it's less problematic than trying to accomodate some 936 handle, which no longer has any other purpose
I looked everywhere to find a set of insert tips that were compatible with the C245 that weren't JBC prices and finally decided to take the McGeyver approach and modified a set kinda like the one here:
https://www.amazon.com/ShineNow-Heat-set-Soldering-Install-Inserts/dp/B09VL41T7K/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2JICTPRZJPQ39&keywords=936+heat+set+insert+tips&qid=1688284011&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=936+heat+set+insert+tips%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-4I bored out the adapter to be a tight friction fit on one of my c249 iron tips, making sure it wasn't too tight where it would get stuck and it works great. Instead of the typical 3 seconds it takes to heat up a c249 tip, it takes about 6 seconds. I considered sacrificing one of the c249 tips to see if I could run it through a die and thread the outside but the friction fit was good enough for me.
which c245 tip did you use? any pics?
Hi, hope this is the right place to ask this, been looking for a new budget soldering station and the T3A & T3B seem to have a bit of a cult following and now there is a "S" version of both models that is cheaper, but I'm having a hard time finding out why its cheaper? I see it has a different holder that would knock the cost down a little but it also seems to be lacking the detection for when the iron is stowed in the holder yet they still advertise it as having standby?
Is anyone able to clarify the difference for me to save me having buyer's remorse for not going with the T3A In answer to my own question, got a reply from AiXun:
Hi,
Thank you for your inquiry.
The iron stands of T3AS and T3A are different. T3AS has a simpler iron stand, so the cost is lower.
Except for the iron stand, other functions are the same.
Any other questions please let me know.
the s models do use the newer style psu also not that they are that much different but its the newer black style. but yeah otherwise they are they same thing.
Thanks, according to AiXun the S models are also not compatible with the big boy stands you get with the T3A and T3B.
So guess I'm getting a T3A.
Anywhere better then Ali to grab one (I'm in the UK)
Sorry if this has already been covered (I didn't read all 829 posts in this thread, just scanned the 34 pages)....
What/how much difference will the T3A produce when using the official JBC T245-A handle vs the the AiXun 245 handle (assuming the base T3A and official JBC tips are used)?
Any reason to consider some other models or configurations?
Thanks
Hello, is there any alternative for GX12-5 connector which is compatible with Aixun T3A? I am feeling that GX12 is not making good job.
I am feeling that GX12 is not making good job.
well... in what way(s) specifically? ...there is GX12-6 and GX12-7 for an extra 1-2 pins?
I am not sure you would think the original JBC plastic hirose connector is any better...
So what leaves then? For such multi-pin and higher current carrying capabilities?
Mini-XLR is up to 4 pin? (or maybe 5-pin max but you would be hard pressed to find).
What else can be? Like a speakon? ...would be physically much larger?
Main thing i don't like is having to screw on the retaining ring. But other than that... seems "good enough"... isn't it?
It is feeling loose, also buzzing badly.
ah yes. now remember. and indeed is legitimate concern. because when tightening or plugging / unplugging. the coming loose.
perhaps this aspect can be better on higher quality (or branded) versions of these gh12. however what we get are these flooded on china / aliexpress. and they do indeed loosen themselves. perhaps there is 2 slightly different sourced version maybe? idk, and perhaps the both are. or one is better than the other. but neither is so strongly branded, the manufactuing origin? so perhaps not so easy to identify from the other... but besides maybe both type are in fact bad for this way. i did not check.
but i agree, it quite seems legitimate criticism. now i remember... because the panel mount. there is no locating pin or keyway. to stop rotating around. so this action of screwing on the threaded collar. then the whole things rotates around. and it loosens entirely from the panel.
so if a locking / locating pin (or a keyway slot) is missing. then can we mod ourselves, and to add one somehow? i suppose there might be several different solutions. or threadlocker etc... maybe the chinese just resorts to hot glue in the factory. or other types of glue stuff like from the 'kafuter'.
Any idea how to find better connectors? I purchased more expensive gx12-5 connectors with gold plated pins, but still waiting for package.
well then please to wait, then come back when they arrive to tell us how is it... maybe also with store link where to buy from?
other place: digikey / farnell / mouser / (other suppliers on octopart). (so parametric search first on digikey. then to find candidate mfr + part no.)... same as any other. sorry i don't have any specific known part to recommend. but those you ordered already. please to tell us later? many thanks
I will leave feedback. Actually i wasted hours searching on mouser and no results with finding alternative.
What about Lemo style push connectors? They are insanely high quality. No idea if they offer ones with enough pin connectors or sizing that will work though.
What about Lemo push connectors? They are very high quality. Not sure if they offer correct size or #of contacts needed.
What about Lemo push connectors? They are very high quality. Not sure if they offer correct size or #of contacts needed.
I saw those. They look amazingly high quality, perhaps a bit too high quality. A male + Female LEMO would cost you over half the price of the soldering station based on digikey prices.
There are knockoff versions as well of them.
ok its like this:
* mini xlr is indeed fantastic looking connector... but where are the specs for it? current / voltage etc?
* mini xlr maxes out at 5 pins. and might be a bit harder to source reliably
i do recommend investigating mini xlr... it would just probably make more sense for other things than these aixun? because we have some limits on the space. it might be easiey just to take a pin punch and try to hammer some irregularity into the barrel. or drill a tiny hole (sideways) and drive a little steel pin into it. to then be like a keyway that fixes the rotational position on the panel mount. and prevents the gx12-5 from ever being able to rotate and come loose.
in fact isn't it that there are already 2 parallel flats on the threaded barrel section of these gx12-5 ? so wouldn't that mean the circular hole that was drilled into chassis is actualy too big? idk. would have to look at it again. but just to say that might have been the intention (for the design of these connector). for to stop them rotating.
Has anyone had any success in finding good quality c245 clone tips for the T3A? I found some made by OSS on ebay but i try and avoid ebay for stuff like this. I'm surprised there are so few clone tips out there that are c245.
Has anyone had any success in finding good quality c245 clone tips for the T3A? I found some made by OSS on ebay but i try and avoid ebay for stuff like this. I'm surprised there are so few clone tips out there that are c245.
There are many clones, none seem to be on par with the original JBC products. The main problem is: outside is fine - but inside there are air gaps between the heater core and the tip itself. It's a result of cheaper manufacturing processes. You can clearly see the difference - stick the tip of the clone into a wet sponge - and look for the power delivery bar on the base, it's nowhere near the maximum. Very different picture with the originals - heat is conducted rather rapidly, water boils fast, power delivery is high. Air gap in the clones keeps the core and thermocouple hot while the tip is much cooler.
I only bought clones to get a taste of different tip shapes, once I settled on what I want - the real ones were ordered. Never used clones after that.
Hi guys,
did anyone upgrade firmware to v1.34 and is experiencing any issues?
I have and now there are some temperature issues - let's say I set the temperature to 350C. After I put the iron to standby caddy it starts cooling down from 380C...
When ST-Link V2 programmer arrives I will downgrade the firmware to v1.26 (got clean firmware dump from elektroda.pl) and then update it back to v1.33 with Aixun software.
I updated mine yesterday ang got the same.
I updated mine yesterday ang got the same.
I have just realised it's possible to downgrade the firmware via the Aixun software, so I went back to v1.33 and everything seems ok now temperature wise.
The temperature displayed is far more realistic - while heating to 350C it goes to 354C and then stabilizes at 350C, while with v1.34 it went exactly to 350C and stayed there...which I find a bit unrealistic considering how the heating elements work in real life.
Which firmware version do you find the most reliable?
Does the "Screen rest" function work for you?
Edit(24.07.2023): I did temperature calibration today with my trusted Omega K type temperature probe and the temperatures are very accurate with firmware v1.33 - when unit is set to 350C I get steady 347C on the temperature probe, without any fluctuations whatsoever. With v1.34 the temperatures were jumping up and down like crazy.
well then please to wait, then come back when they arrive to tell us how is it... maybe also with store link where to buy from?
other place: digikey / farnell / mouser / (other suppliers on octopart). (so parametric search first on digikey. then to find candidate mfr + part no.)... same as any other. sorry i don't have any specific known part to recommend. but those you ordered already. please to tell us later? many thanks
I just received connectors. They are a bit bigger, very good quality at first look. Also no wobble when plugged as original. I will try to install them next week.