Best way to create binding posts for a HP 6627A or other PS with back outputs

[DC1MC]

So if DHL won't destroy it  I'll be soon the proud owner of a Agilent HP 6627A, that unfortunately has the outputs on the back.
I want to use something similar with these:



Mount the PS on a side of my desk and screw two of these on the desktop.

and I was wondering if you have any other suggestions that could do the job better/cheaper.

Also, a nice DE/EU source of good flexible 2-3 mm² silicone clad stranded wire will be nice, don't want to sacrifice some of my leads for it.


 Cheers,
 DC1MC

[edpalmer42]

I have an HP 6622A (2 channel, 20V@4A or 50V@2A for each channel).  I built something similar to your picture, but I put it on the end of a 2 meter cable so that I could take it to the equipment.  I also included remote sense leads to compensate for the voltage drop in the leads.  For the sense leads, my junk box coughed up a cable that consisted of two, 20 ga., stranded, shielded, twisted pairs.  I couldn't have come up with a better cable.  Sometimes my junk box scares me.   

Ed

[nctnico]

So if DHL won't destroy it  I'll be soon the proud owner of a Agilent HP 6627A, that unfortunately has the outputs on the back.
I want to use something similar with these:

The one in the picture looks extremely crappy. At 20A smoke will tell you it is at the limit. The easiest way is to drill holes in the front and put a few good quality (Hirschmann) binding in them.

[bsdphk]

There is not enough space in the frontpanel for all four channels, in particular not if you want to have access to remote sense also.

I built a "sidecar" box for my 6626A with 16 connectors and four toggle-swithces for local/remote sensing, where "local" is in the side-car.

And the 662x are limited to 4 or 5 amps max, the 6627 is max 2A as I recall, so forget about 20A hardware.

[DC1MC]

Just some quick observations and answers:

- I intend to use two of these boxes that will cover perfectly all 4 channels of the PS, remote sense and all.

- 20A showed on the box are "Chinese amps"  , most likely the sum of currents trough all the binding posts, when they arrive, I'll make some pictures to see if I could replace them with better ones, suggestion will be welcome, but I need the metal box, I live in a small apt at top floor, so not easy to do mechanical stuff.

- still need a source of nice wire for the connection wit the PS.

 Cheers,
 DC1MC

[nctnico]

When it comes to wiring: on Ebay you can find nice and flexible silicone insulated wire.

[DC1MC]

When it comes to wiring: on Ebay you can find nice and flexible silicone insulated wire.

Uhmm, thanks, I guess, I was more thinking about some recommendation of reputable sellers, in the age of copper coated aluminum or iron, it matters. Of course I was going to look at EBAY 

 DC1MC

[edpalmer42]

I just used 16ga zip cord for the two power circuits and the cable for the remote sense.  Everything was then bundled into a nylon spiral wrap to keep it neat.

Ed

[chickenHeadKnob]

When it comes to wiring: on Ebay you can find nice and flexible silicone insulated wire.

Uhmm, thanks, I guess, I was more thinking about some recommendation of reputable sellers, in the age of copper coated aluminum or iron, it matters. Of course I was going to look at EBAY 

 DC1MC

Franky (iloveelectronics) was selling good quality copper/silicone. His brother-in-law now maintains the store (http://stores.ebay.com/99centhobbies).
Hobby king also sells the good stuff by the meter in multiple colors and gages. as far as I know.

[artag]

People building electric planes use good quality silicone cable. Try a radio-control model shop.

I agree with putting sockets on a long lead : having them on the front panel just means  you need long clip leads to things on the bench. But I wouldn't want to screw anything to the bench either - I'd rather have things mobile.

I don't have 4 outlets, but I just run cables from the PSU to a couple of inline 4mm (banana) sockets. The sense leads are also connected to the sockets, so the PSU is regulating the voltage at the sockets. The sockets are actually brass tubing (3/16 I think) with heatshrink over them.