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Budget through-hole desoldering station/gun?

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george graves:
Soon I'll need to be desoldering lots of Through-hole parts.  About 100-200 parts once a week - a few DIP-8's, and mostly LED and some TH switches on double sides boards.  The boards are very small, less than an inch square - high quality, and can take some heat/time.  For me, de-soldering isn't much fun - actually, that's not really true, I kinda hate it.  And the solder sucker, and de-soldering wick isn't going to cut it.

My budget is about $100.

I was kinda thinking that something with a vacuum, built in would be best for this kind of work.  But I'd love to know some options.

Here's what I've found so far:


http://cgi.ebay.com/Electric-Vacuum-Desoldering-Desolder-Gun-Solder-Sucker-/320727288865?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aacd60c21

And of course the RS desoldering iron.  I don't own one yet - but if there is one locally I'll give it a go.  Seems a bit wonky for large jobs.



Any advice?

Thanks!

gg

Psi:
i've often wondered how well these things work, but i've never used one.

I also have to desolder stuff quite often. Mostly its 10-20 bad caps off old embedded motherboards.
I found the best method was a HUGE iron tip that can touch both pins of the cap at once. Then you just pull on the cap and it pops out easily.

The hard bit is clearing the holes out for the new cap. I found it quicker to clear out only one hole (the one that's not on the ground plane). Then i can cut the new cap legs at different lengths so the cap goes part the way in (until the other leg hits). Then i just heat up that hole from the other side and the cap will slide in all the way.

Kiriakos-GR:
My Electric Vacuum De soldering gun is the DENON  SC5000 (made in Japan) looks like the Chinese one as design,
and it costs about  800 EUR.

Here is a picture of the most modern model DENON 7000.

http://www.denondic.co.jp/en/products/sc7000.html

saturation:
Hot air is a simple fast way.  The 858D even came with an IC popper accessory for that task all for $63 delivered, but you should do the safety remediation to insure its safe to use.

Here's a video of how to remove the solder from the pads, and imagine that an IC is on it.  The popper is just a wire lever to work the ICs out.  For transistor and passives, you just pull them out with pliers or similar.

If you are going to reuse the PCB, you'll need to clean off excess solder with hot air and a solder wick.

george graves:
Interesting - I've never seen a hot-air rework used like that.

I have a 858D.  It's the 110 volt US model.  It's just that I was hoping that removing the components, and cleaning up the holes enough for to resolder the new part would be a one-step operation with a vacuum type set up..  Let steps, less time, less heat, ect...no? - But that looks like it might be worth a try.

Actually - that makes me think that I could almost try something involving a shop vac on the other side and the PCB held in a jig.....  Hmmmm.  Or the radio shack iron attached to a shop vac?

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