Glue between superglue and gorilla

[joeqsmith]

With one additive changed, it goes by the name Torrseal for ultra high vacuum work.  I just use the 1C when I need vaccum or laser optics compatability.

Steve

That is what I have holding my Extech meter's dial together after someone turned it past the dead stop....  Good stuff but not so much for repairing meters....

[timb]

Epoxy Pro Tip: The caps from a prescription pill bottle make excellent mixing trays for epoxy. Toothpicks also make fantastic disposable stirring implements. After about an hour you can push on the top of the cap while gently flexing it to remove the unused epoxy. (Or, leave the toothpick to set in the unused epoxy and simply pull it out in one go the next day.)

A small prescription pill bottle is also the perfect size to hold toothpicks.

I love pill bottles, so many uses in the lab... They're great for holding screws when taking things apart, for storing components, for cleaning small parts and hardware (get a big pill bottle, fill with knobs from a scope, add some baking soda, detergent and water and shake), so many uses! I must have a couple of hundred in a box under the workbench.

[Macbeth]

Yes they are great. I get a new one every month from the pharmacist. I decant all my chemicals like IPA and Acetone into them. Liquid tight and childproof.

[akis]

I am glueing ceramic tiles 18mm diameter, 2mm thickness, onto a 0.5mm polypropylene holder. The tiles are silvered and then varnished with yacht varnish, two coats. I use superglue to glue them onto the polypropylene. What happens is (a) the holder flexes, as it should, but the ceramic tiles do not, and the superglue is not ideal. Secondly the varnished surface is not smooth, and the superglue is thin and does not fill the spaces properly. It is very important that the glue fills all spaces because the assembly will be immersed in liquid and no liquid should enter in between.

My current technique is obviously bad. However the system has been in operation for 6 months and it seems to work.

I need three improvements:
1) a slightly thicker glue to fill the spaces completely (we are talking about 0.1mm gaps barely visible with magnifying lens).
2) a glue dispenser with a 0.5-1mm nozzle to allow me to spread the glue properly without making a mess of the tiles.
3) flexible glue to allow the holder to flex, maybe, without coming off (the superglue would crack and come off).

I have bought the JB Weld epoxy which may fill the gaps better, but it will not be flexible at all and it will not be easy to dispense.

[Ian.M]

Very few glues will bond to polypropylene.  In fact it is usual to use a polypropylene mixing tub for epoxy work because it is so easy to pop the cured epoxy residue out of the tub and reuse it, and because it is resistant to *ALL* the solvents and dilutants one might need to use.

To have any chance of it bonding well you'll need to degrease and flame treat the polypropylene immediately before glueup.  Use a resilient glue as the flexing and differential thermal expansion will cause rigid glues like normal superglue or common epoxies to fail.  If the tile back surface is porous, you will probably need to paint it with thinned glue and let it dry to seal the surface before bonding.

[Kevman]

You can try weldbond, which looks an awful like ye olde Elmers but is very strong. Its also flexible, which you need. You'll likely need a lot of whatever you use if you want it to fill in completely...

Good luck getting anything to stick to polypropylene, though. Rough the crap out of it with sandpaper, but still....

[Ian.M]

Its worth doing *ANYTHING* you can to replace the polypropylene backing with something more suitable.   ABS would be OK.  GRP would be excellent.

[akis]

Polystyrene. I just looked it up. It is polystyrene. It glues well.

What glues *much* better was PETg but at 0.5mm it was too stiff, did not flex as much as I'd like it to. The superglue bond however was extremely strong. I could not find 0.3mm PETg that might do the trick.

[Ian.M]

In that case, Alcohol wipe, sand and hoover the backing plastic then use a wet grab polyurethane construction adhesive.  Scrape a thin smear over both the tiles and the plastic then bed each tile on a dob of the stuff.  You will probably need to mask the faces with masking tape or PVC electrical tape to make cleanup of glue oozeout easier.

[babysitter]

Hi German_EE,

this guy will fix all your glue needs, I think.

https://www.klebstoffbank.de/

[timb]

Yes they are great. I get a new one every month from the pharmacist. I decant all my chemicals like IPA and Acetone into them. Liquid tight and childproof.

Yes! I keep a large pill bottle of IPA for cleaning parts I desolder. Drop a handful of transistors, caps, whatever in, let sit for a few minutes, shake, remove and rinse with IPA in a spray bottle.

I also make my own DeoxIT mix for cleaning sealed switches. Apply 10 drops of D100 to a small pill bottle halfway filled with 97% IPA, shake, then use a syringe to inject it into the switch. Works great for those ganged switches you find in old HP and Tek gear.

Anyway, uh, back to glue...

[ez24]

Yes they are great. I get a new one every month from the pharmacist. I decant all my chemicals like IPA and Acetone into them. Liquid tight and childproof.

Yes! I keep a large pill bottle of IPA for cleaning parts I desolder. Drop a handful of transistors, caps, whatever in, let sit for a few minutes, shake, remove and rinse with IPA in a spray bottle.

I also make my own DeoxIT mix for cleaning sealed switches. Apply 10 drops of D100 to a small pill bottle halfway filled with 97% IPA, shake, then use a syringe to inject it into the switch. Works great for those ganged switches you find in old HP and Tek gear.

Anyway, uh, back to glue...

Are you talking about mixing this with IPA to clean your switches?  Seems like they would be sticky?

http://www.amazon.com/Surebonder-DT-100-Sticks-All-Temperature-5-Sticks-100/dp/B003JZII34/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&qid=1449584872&sr=8-36&keywords=d100

[timb]

Yes they are great. I get a new one every month from the pharmacist. I decant all my chemicals like IPA and Acetone into them. Liquid tight and childproof.

Yes! I keep a large pill bottle of IPA for cleaning parts I desolder. Drop a handful of transistors, caps, whatever in, let sit for a few minutes, shake, remove and rinse with IPA in a spray bottle.

I also make my own DeoxIT mix for cleaning sealed switches. Apply 10 drops of D100 to a small pill bottle halfway filled with 97% IPA, shake, then use a syringe to inject it into the switch. Works great for those ganged switches you find in old HP and Tek gear.

Anyway, uh, back to glue...

Are you talking about mixing this with IPA to clean your switches?  Seems like they would be sticky?

http://www.amazon.com/Surebonder-DT-100-Sticks-All-Temperature-5-Sticks-100/dp/B003JZII34/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&qid=1449584872&sr=8-36&keywords=d100

Haha, noooo. This is a thread about glue though...

Anyway, for those wondering, it's DeoxIT D100, which is 100% DeoxIT contact cleaner. Comes in either little squeeze tubes or nail polish style bottles with a brush. You apply it to contacts or connectors, let it sit a minute (or work the switch a bit) then wipe off the excess.

This is opposed to D5, which comes in an aerosol can; it's basically 90% IPA, 5% DeoxIT and 5% other stuff (propellant mainly). The idea is you spray it into semi-sealed switches, work them a bit and let it evaporate. This way you don't have to wipe off the excess, which would be hard to do with a lot of switches that you can't take apart. The IPA also removes grease and other contaminants.

Mixing D100 and IPA and injecting it with a syringe is a lot cheaper than buying the spray cans.

[ez24]

Mixing D100 and IPA and injecting it with a syringe is a lot cheaper than buying the spray cans.

thanks

[RobertBG]

I am glueing ceramic tiles 18mm diameter, 2mm thickness, onto a 0.5mm polypropylene holder. The tiles are silvered and then varnished with yacht varnish, two coats. I use superglue to glue them onto the polypropylene. What happens is (a) the holder flexes, as it should, but the ceramic tiles do not, and the superglue is not ideal. Secondly the varnished surface is not smooth, and the superglue is thin and does not fill the spaces properly. It is very important that the glue fills all spaces because the assembly will be immersed in liquid and no liquid should enter in between.

My current technique is obviously bad. However the system has been in operation for 6 months and it seems to work.

I need three improvements:
1) a slightly thicker glue to fill the spaces completely (we are talking about 0.1mm gaps barely visible with magnifying lens).
2) a glue dispenser with a 0.5-1mm nozzle to allow me to spread the glue properly without making a mess of the tiles.
3) flexible glue to allow the holder to flex, maybe, without coming off (the superglue would crack and come off).

I have bought the JB Weld epoxy which may fill the gaps better, but it will not be flexible at all and it will not be easy to dispense.

You're definitely working with 2 of the tougher things to bond and want to bond them together,not the easiest task.
    I did a run of headlight conversions where I had a similar problem and needed to glue a glass lens to a plastic reflector and housing.Superglue's and epoxies worked but not for long and would usually separate from the glass as soon as it got cold.A few of the epoxies actually held strong enough to break the glass or plastic during testing when we put them in the freezer   

   We ended up going with a hot glue from Wisdom called Clearbond .If you where working with something larger than .5mm I'd highly recommend giving it a try.They'll even send free samples sometimes.

I think a rubberized CA like this http://www.gluguru.com/categories/adhesives/cyanoacrylates.aspx  or  similar one from Henkel will work for you.They are a little thicker then normal Superglue and will give you the flexibility you need between the different materials.

[ez24]

For

tile to tile 
tile to glass   
glass to glass   
porcelain to porcelain


or to stop rust in a cast iron tube (by grinding to bare metal and coating)

http://www.amazon.com/Sashco-13010-Sealants-Adhesive-10-5-Ounce/dp/B01435NGYO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449640517&sr=8-2&keywords=lexel

This stuff has saved me 10s of thousands.  I used it to make repairs by gluing tiles on top of tiles.  It does not get hard. 

The place where I stopped the rust feels like plastic when I touch it.
It was just meant to be a temp fix until I could figure out what to do.  The spot is about 2 inches in diameter.  Now it is going on 5 years now and no rust (this is at the top edge of the tub).  I used the clear stuff so I can still see the bare metal.

The tile repair is where there were 1 inch tiles that came loose and the wall behind them rotted out.  I cleaned out the rot and loose tiles filled the gap with this stuff and put larger (6x6) tiles on top starting where there were good 1 inch tiles.  Some places I glued 6x6 to each other over the 1 inch tiles.  So in some places there is a 3 layer of tiles.   The edges of the 6x6 were glued to the tub.

Been ok for over 5 years now and expect it to last my lifetime.