Goot solder wick

[megahz]

Well there is no point in buying it offline because I did just buy 100ml Mg chemicals flux off amazon 2 days ago, but I think I can ask my dad if he has some at work cauz he works for a drug company

[nanofrog]

Well there is no point in buying it offline because I did just buy 100ml Mg chemicals flux off amazon 2 days ago, but I think I can ask my dad if he has some at work cauz he works for a drug company

Worth a shot. 

All I've seen in a drug store however, is 91%, and water isn't really desirable (rosin isn't water soluble unless it's been modified). BTW, you can make a paste by mixing equal parts of rosin and Vaseline (50/50).

[megahz]

Im doing that tomorrow evening,  got any more flux formulas?

Edit: Could not wait till morning, so I did it now and it works great! very smoky though

[nukie]

You want gel type viscosity so keep adding IPA till its right. You don't want it dripping all over the place. If it drips its too diluted.

[ddavidebor]

It's used for wood treatment.

[ddavidebor]

You want gel type viscosity so keep adding IPA till its right. You don't want it dripping all over the place. If it drips its too diluted.

No the final purpose is to cover all the wick "forever"... So you need the flux a bit liquid and when it dry the colophony remain.

[nanofrog]

Im doing that tomorrow evening,  got any more flux formulas?

Edit: Could not wait till morning, so I did it now and it works great! very smoky though

Not for electronics.

Try increasing the rosin content, and see if it reduces or eliminates the smoke (assuming the iron wasn't too hot).

[lpc32]

Tried one of these fake Goots. I thought it might be legit; it's just a small spool of braided wires, how much would that cost anyway?

I don't have an authentic Goot to compare it to, but the fake stuff doesn't seem to work well. The wires aren't braided well and tend to fray and leave bits around. The flux doesn't seem to do much either, but maybe it's the bad braiding to blame.

[nanofrog]

Tried one of these fake Goots. I thought it might be legit; it's just a small spool of braided wires, how much would that cost anyway?

I don't have an authentic Goot to compare it to, but the fake stuff doesn't seem to work well. The wires aren't braided well and tend to fray and leave bits around. The flux doesn't seem to do much either, but maybe it's the bad braiding to blame.

Stick to name brands on your consumables as it saves you a lot of aggravation. There's also the side effect that it's cheaper in the long run, and that's even before accounting for the additional costs associated with damaging PCB's due to poor quality supplies (lifted traces for example).

For wick, Chemtronics is the best I've ever used, bar none, and seems to be a sentiment/experience shared by others here as well. Not to say it's the only decent brand, as Techspray, MG Chemicals, and Easy Braid are also excellent performers for example (genuine Goot isn't that common in the US IME; Amtech is another brand that's counterfeited a lot <flux>).

In general, other brands you'd see associated with quality supplies would be Kester, Multicore, AIM (American Iron & Metals), Indium, MG Chemicals, Chipquik, and Alpha Metals for example (not all inclusive).

Easiest way to get genuine is to buy from distributors rather than eBay (unless it's a distributor selling on eBay, which does happen; takes a little digging though).

[Psi]

Yep, chemtronics wick is awesome.

I recently tried some Loctite wick and it was up to the chemtronics standard of awesome.

[nanofrog]

Yep, chemtronics wick is awesome.

I recently tried some Loctite wick and it was up to the chemtronics standard of awesome.

Never tried that one, so good to know. 

[Refrigerator]

aww the first batch didn't work, do you use 99% alcohol? because its not available in my local cvs and wallgreens, so I used 70% alcohol and some violin rosin, 1 gram of rosin to 5ml of alcohol, I soaked my wick in it and tried to desolder sumthin and it didn't work, i need 99% probably, It was also very watery

Try acetone, that's what i use because there's no ethanol in my local hardware shop anymore and acetone dries out much quicker than ethanol ( It could be good or bad, depends on where you use it ) .

[AlfBaz]

I don't have an authentic Goot to compare it to

I have no problems at all with the good goot I pick up from jaycar, here's a shot of it

[lpc32]

nanofrog, I'm familiar with the "known good" ones, but availability or price is a problem around here.

AlfBaz, Jaycar is reputable, they'd have the real thing. From your photo I can see some minor difference to the package I have. Interestingly, the braiding pattern is similar as far as I can see. But maybe it's different in practice.

So how does the real Goot compare with Chemtronics or other types?

[nanofrog]

nanofrog, I'm familiar with the "known good" ones, but availability or price is a problem around here.

Where are you located?

If you go into your user profile and set your country, your nation's flag will display beneath your userID. Makes it so much easier to answer questions, especially regarding relevant product vendors. 

Purchasing parts and consumables from distributors is the best way to avoid counterfeits IME. Good products may not seem inexpensive when you first see the price, but it's actually the best value in the end (actually works and keeps you from damaging/destroying PCB's; then there's the aggravation factor).  It's possible to get genuine products on eBay, Aliexpress, and DX, but it's more likely you'll get a fake instead. Goot, Hakko, and Amtech get counterfeited a lot.


One trick you might find useful, is to toss these in as filler items on a component order so you don't get raped on shipping for a roll or two of solder wick, flux pen, soldering iron tips, ... types of consumables (don't weigh much). Mouser, Digikey, and so on will carry quality consumables. Being a bit flexible on brand helps, but compared to what you're using, the worst name brand will run rings around what you're currently using performance wise.

Regarding solder wick braiding itself, it's usually rather small gauge wire in a tight weave pattern. But that's only part of the story, as the flux is absolutely critical (must have enough, and it work properly). To give you an idea, Chemtronics is actually a bit sticky (I use rosin), and stores indefinitely IME (can't remember how old mine is, but it works just fine). Cheap stuff tends to have little to no flux. Longer length spools (or packs) is cheaper in the long run (25m, 50m, 100m spools/total length of spools when added).

Pic might help (not mine).

[JTR]

I don't have an authentic Goot to compare it to

I have no problems at all with the good goot I pick up from jaycar, here's a shot of it

Likewise. A few days ago I had to replace a flat-flex connector on my Lappy motherboard. Not a job I wanted to cut corners on. I used chipquik to desolder the old one and I bought some goot wick from Jaycar to mop up, not before asking if it was the genuine deal. There is solder wick and then there is barely passable earthing braid. The goot from Jaycar simply was the best wick I've used (make no claim to have used any of the other "brand names.")

 

[lpc32]

If you go into your user profile and set your country, your nation's flag will display beneath your userID. Makes it so much easier to answer questions, especially regarding relevant product vendors. 

I know this forum feature exists, but I think in general on the internet it's best to employ anonymity-by-default. When looking for suggestions on where to get something I just qualify it with "on eBay" or "from China/Hong Kong stores". Goot-wise, I was just sharing my experience with a fake, and wondering about the relative merit of the real thing.

Btu I still have some Chemtronics wick left, and I may have found a decent source for more.

Purchasing parts and consumables from distributors is the best way to avoid counterfeits IME.

It is.

One trick you might find useful, is to toss these in as filler items on a component order so you don't get raped on shipping for a roll or two of solder wick, flux pen, soldering iron tips, ...

Sure. But I'm unlikely to do any major parts ordering in the foreseeable future, so the shipping overhead is just a permanent obstacle.

Cheap stuff tends to have little to no flux.

The fake Goot wasn't effective even with added flux, so there may be other factors to blame. The flux I added was also generic, so maybe fishy as well, but it appears to be at least somewhat effective for soldering.

[nanofrog]

I know this forum feature exists, but I think in general on the internet it's best to employ anonymity-by-default.

So you're a ...



    

I do get your point, but just stating nation won't make any difference. Now if you were to offer up an address, and so on that an identity thief would have enough information to be able to open accounts in your name and such, that would be a totally different matter. 

When looking for suggestions on where to get something I just qualify it with "on eBay" or "from China/Hong Kong stores". Goot-wise, I was just sharing my experience with a fake, and wondering about the relative merit of the real thing.

I take eBay and so-on with the attitude it's fake until absolutely proven otherwise. The real deal should be more expensive sourced from China if it's real IMHO due to compiling shipping costs.

Regarding the merit of the real thing, I'd expect a difference of night-and-day, just like the cheap crap-ass hot air station clones from China vs. a genuine Hakko for example. See which one breaks first, and get back to me. 

.,..[Chemtronics] wick left, and I may have found a decent source for more.

Nice.  You won't be disappointed. Seriously.

The fake Goot wasn't effective even with added flux, so there may be other factors to blame. The flux I added was also generic, so maybe fishy as well, but it appears to be at least somewhat effective for soldering.

Crap on both ends = can't figure out which is worse; braid quality or flux quality. 

That said, crap is crap, so you'd be better off to "bite the bullet" as it were IMHO, and get some quality braid, flux, and flux core solder wire. 

[lpc32]

Yep, robber hen.

[SteveyG]

I usually use multicore or chemtronics wick at work, but I have two different thickness 50m reels of multicore wick at home. Other brands don't ever seem anywhere near as good.

[lpc32]

What sizes are these two wicks, and when do you prefer one over the other?

[nanofrog]

Yep, robber hen.

More like the The Anonymous Chicken making a break for it. 

As per sizes of wick, it depends on what you're doing, as you size it to the hole or pad just like a soldering iron tip. The Soder-Wick Sizing Guide might help, particularly pg. 2 (uploaded it).

Personally, I use #3 the most for PTH, but also have some #5 for bigger stuff when needed. For SMD work #2 makes a good general purpose size IMHO. In a pinch, you can trim it down, and see if that does the job.

FWIW, they place a 2yr shelf life on it, but if stored at room temp, it lasts far longer. I bought 50' of SD Rosin bobbins ~ 7 years ago, and it still looks good and works like new.

[SteveyG]

What sizes are these two wicks, and when do you prefer one over the other?

I think they're 1.5mm and 2.8mm. 1.5mm is great for small pads where you don't want to accidentally draw solder from surrounding areas.

[lpc32]

Thanks for the PDF.

I wonder if narrower wicks have the advantage of less heat loss, versus the advantage of more room for absorption in wider ones.

[nanofrog]

Thanks for the PDF.

I wonder if narrower wicks have the advantage of less heat loss, versus the advantage of more room for absorption in wider ones.

You're welcome. 

All things other than the width being equal, yes it does.

Keep in mind though, you'd have to keep the heat on the joint longer as it takes more time to clean up the joint. Epoxy's adhesive strength gets a lot weaker as you heat it (i.e. 80% of it lost in fact), so it's a lot easier to lift traces. Doing it quick, say 5 seconds max, will help you prevent this from happening. And matching the wick to the hole/pad helps keep your working time as short as possible.

In a pinch where the heat is being drawn off more than usual, one trick you might try is to cut it to a short length (figure out how much it can remove w/ practice), and manipulate it with tools that don't draw off heat. Nylon spudger or wood (orange stick, tooth pick, chopstick,...) if tweezers are pulling too much heat.