HAKKO FR-301 desoldering tool

[matura713]

With the forces that are put on the Flange B5198, I would strongly suggest that you replace the FR-300 Flange with the FR-301 Flange.  Especially if you are using a soldering iron holder, or doing lots of desoldering.  The Flange would be supported all around the back of the hot heating element, not just the four screws which could pull out of the case, opps.

of course, if it's possible to get the original flange part B5198 would be the best option... However, B5198 makes contact with the case only on the points of the 4 screws - all 4 of its sides are several millimeters away from the case - you can look at any picture of FR-301 to see that. So, I don't agree with your statement - it makes sense in general case, but even the original flange part number B5198 is not designed in such way. In fact there is probably good reason why Hakko made the flange not touch the case on the sides, but only on the 4 screw points.

[Paul Fawcett]

Hey all,

I seem to have the opposite problem -- I have an FR300 with a broken flange... and as far as I can tell there is no replacement part available.   Any opinions on whether the (thicker) B5198 flange for the FR301 will work with the FR300 innards, or would I have to replace the heating element and/or element cover as well?   I sure hope there's an option here!

Cheers,

Paul

[mr.fabe]

Hey all,

I seem to have the opposite problem -- I have an FR300 with a broken flange... and as far as I can tell there is no replacement part available.   Any opinions on whether the (thicker) B5198 flange for the FR301 will work with the FR300 innards, or would I have to replace the heating element and/or element cover as well?   I sure hope there's an option here!

Cheers,

Paul

Have you contacted HakkoUSA for parts availability?  They have FR-300 repair parts listed on their site and can probably locate what your looking for.

[Reiniku]

Is the FR-301 still the defacto desoldering gun in its price range or are there other alternatives at this point?

[Dd]

Reiniku
I'm quite happy with FR-301 for hobby use. For hardcore service operation I'd prefer desktop series (4xx?) for their durability.
I bought it from Japan so it was under 200 USD.

Some info from Hakko Japan:
The motor is not available by itself, and it is an integral part of 'Pump Assembly'
which is available for repair purpose by distributors who had repair training and
got authorized by Hakko.

[floston.paradise]

Hello
Can someone help me modify the FR-301 from 100V to 220-230V?
In addition to replacing the resistor from 10 ohms to 160 ohms, what else needs to be done?
ps It is clear that it will be necessary to replace the a heating element with A5049

[dtremit]

Alternatively — is there any reason a 100v FR-301 wouldn't work well on a step down transformer?

Given current exchange rates the 100v Japanese model is about half the price of the US model, even when shipping is factored in.

I happen to have some other possible uses for 120v->100v transformers, though it seems you'd still come out ahead even with the transformer cost factored in.

(Incidentally, FR-410 is available at a similar discount — about $575 including shipping.)

[Southerner]

Reiniku
I'm quite happy with FR-301 for hobby use. For hardcore service operation I'd prefer desktop series (4xx?) for their durability.
I bought it from Japan so it was under 200 USD.

What is needed to convert the Japanese FR301 from 100V to 120v?  I have seen comments that it can just be used on 120v but am curious what is needed to make it for 120v?
Thank you.

[rernexy]

a few weeks back I bought a Japanese FR-301 and a Australia (240V) to Japanese (100V) stepdown transformer. Still way in front relative to the Australian retail prices, which were $900 to $1000. I got the stepdown from "tortech" here in Aus.

FWIW tortech has some views regarding 240V stepdown:

One from the page https://www.tortech.com.au/product/voltage-converters/step-down/economy/economy-japanese-step-down-transformer/

Important note: Why you should not use a USA stepdown for Japanese appliances: Contrary to advice from others - running your Japanese device on a USA rated stepdown transformer will eventually destroy your Japanese device! Most Japanese equipment runs at 100v and by using Japanese appliance on a 110/120v you will encounter overvoltage. This overvoltage can deteriorate your appliance until it will stop functioning correctly.

Another on the page https://www.tortech.com.au/general-faqs/ for the question "I noticed your American voltage converters say 110 Volts, but my equipment is rated at 120 Volts. Will it still work?"

 

[rsjsouza]

I use my FR301 with a 120-100V autotransformer with zero problems. I want this tool to last me a very long time, thus I won't risk by running it at 20% more nominal voltage.

[yamhill]

I just ordered a 301 from Japan and plan to use a transformer to adjust the voltage for use in the USA.

I'm curious, for those that can better discern the workings of the FR301 control board, from the picture -- with the pen marks for the voltage -- I'm wondering how many thing change on the board or in the whole unit with the "pen mark".

[rsjsouza]

I suspect that R16/R17 should be changed to something slightly higher to avoid stressing C2 with overvoltage - maybe a pair of 20 or 22kΩ.

Also, as someone else hinted here, R20 might require a 20% increase.

I can't tell what the box capacitor C15 is doing, but if it is stepping down voltage, it might also require change to increase its reactance.

Naturally, that assumes the pump connected to CN7/CN8 is actually after a voltage limiting device. Otherwise, it will be subjected to overvoltage. One thing I know is the pump works with the heater unpowered.

[Logg]

I suspect that R16/R17 should be changed to something slightly higher to avoid stressing C2 with overvoltage - maybe a pair of 20 or 22kΩ.

Also, as someone else hinted here, R20 might require a 20% increase.

I can't tell what the box capacitor C15 is doing, but if it is stepping down voltage, it might also require change to increase its reactance.

Naturally, that assumes the pump connected to CN7/CN8 is actually after a voltage limiting device. Otherwise, it will be subjected to overvoltage. One thing I know is the pump works with the heater unpowered.

I did a lot of research, bought both the Japanese & North American circuit boards to compare them, and wrote up a tutorial on how to convert the Japanese FR301-82 for North America 120VAC here. It turns out that Hakko didn't design any difference on the board to additionally limit current to the heater in North America. They have a different part number for the Heater Element, but they have identical resistance and most likely are extremely similar or the same.

By the way, as far as I can tell, C15 in combination with R12 forms an RC filter whose purpose is to smooth out voltage spikes & transient disturbances, providing cleaner power to the tool. It doesn't do any voltage transformation.

[rsjsouza]

This is great info! Thanks for goong through the exercise of the conversion