If you were buying a T12 or 210/245 today, which one would you recommend ?

[StueyB]

Bit of background,

Im a Mech Engineer so Electronics is not my area of expertise however I have got into it as a bit of a hobby by repairing some of my synthesizers at home.

I'm wanting to set myself up with a nice soldering iron and seperate hot air station. I've been using a Portasol Super 125 (dont laugh) as my iron which has been fine for through hole components but im wanting the ability to go down to 0805 / 2012 SMD components.

So i'm stuck deliberating the following stations:

Sugon T21 120w T115/T210/T245 + C470 compatability
Sugon T16 75w T12
Aifen A2 120w T115/T210/T245
Aifen A9 Pro 120w T115/T210/T245
Aixun T3A
Aixun T320 (the new model)

Im also thinking of going with the Hakko FX-888D or 951 (rip off price ATM though) for a bit more reiability.

I was set on getting a T3A or T3B but there seems to be a bit of drama with the T3A F/W & temp overshooting and grounding issue ?
The T320 looks attractive but its very new. This may not be a good thing.

As far as a hot air station goes I need to replace a 144-Pin LQFP DSP. I have a boatload of scrap boards for practice but would really appreciate pointers into getting set up with the right gear to make a good job (with practice) of changing this. I have access to a digital & analog microscope.

Any help to make an informed purchase would be greatly appreciated

Thanks all !

[thm_w]

For a large 144 pin LQFP, you might consider a preheater. But if the board is very large that may not be possible, photo might help. So something with good wattage combined with a large square tip.
Many existing threads to read: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/hot-air-station-recommendations/

I think some here have ordered the T320 so you could wait for their review.
But given your presumably highish budget I would not bother with Hakko 888/951 or T12.

[ndarjo21]

Based on steve video, it seems soldering station with isolated supply / linear transformer is good way to go

[tony359]

I'm also looking for recommendation as I can't tolerate the grounding/overshooting/voltage leak of my T3A anymore.

I am not convinced that a linear power supply is the solution to all our problems though.

Is there a good brand station available which doesn't cost an arm and a leg? I am struggling to justify spending £500 for a JBC station!

[ndarjo21]

Hakko

[tony359]

The Hakko is about £100 cheaper than the JBC but I already have three JBC T245 tips - so I guess I might end up spending the same if I get a Hakko plus the tips I need.

Anything in the T245 world? Is the 245 a JBC product?

[ndarjo21]

There are bakon bk999/mechanic t360, there are mechanic prime/original clone of the mechanic prime(forget the name), yihua 982, gvm, team oss, ksger.

[tony359]

There are bakon bk999/mechanic t360, there are mechanic prime/original clone of the mechanic prime(forget the name), yihua 982, gvm, team oss, ksger.

Once again, you keep recommending brands you have no experience with.
Anybody can google the options, but what is the point in replacing a Chinese Clone with a Chinese Clone? I doubt that Yihua or Ksger managed to crack the circuitry and are issues-free! Unless you have direct experience with them of course.

[ndarjo21]

Buy jbc then

[tony359]

Again, do you own a JBC?

If not, I don't see the purpose of your comments. We are asking for recommendations. For a list of available products, there is Google.

[ndarjo21]

Good luck for your research mate

[tony359]

A question for JBC expert on this subject: I see many older CD models rated 75W appearing on ebay every now and then. Newer models are a bit more powerful, I believe 140W. My question is: numbers can be marketing and also we know that those stations seldom dump 100% of the rated power into the tips.

Is there an appreciable difference between an older 75W model and a newer 140W one? If those numbers are real, I guess a 140W one would get to set temperature faster but I somehow doubt it would make a difference when soldering even on a difficult join - maybe with a VERY large tip on a sheet of copper

And how much does the JBC 75W compare to the Aixun "200W"?

Thanks!

[hasbihal]

And how much does the JBC 75W compare to the Aixun "200W"?

Thanks!

As for 75W JBC vs 200W Aixun I can't help, but Steve has in almost every review video he made a coin test. For example Metcal 70W is almost as good /fast as the Aixun T3A / T420(D) with 200W.
If you are interested in an Aixun T420 (without D, but you can buy the second stand seperately later) PM me and I can tell you a vendor who sells it in EU for a reasonable price.

[tony359]

you must have missed my posts/video on the T3A - no way I'm going to buy another Aixun!

Yes, Steve is doing those comparisons but the Metcal is using a completely different technology and I don't think he ever tested the older JBC vs the new ones - anyways, I'd like to know more about some practical experience, what it means on some actual, daily usage.

[Arts]

I purchased a genuine JBC CD-1BE (now discontinued) around four years ago. I only use genuine JBC tips. Phenomenal performance, and bulletproof reliable. Tip life is also excellent, probably because I do not use them as chisels or pry-bars.

I have other high-powered stations that offer similar performance, but I prefer the JBC, despite it's lowly 75W: Hakko FM203-HD(140W) & Pace WJS100(120W)

If you have the budget, I highly recommend the JBC.  If you can't stretch to the JBC, I'd strongly suggest the Metcal PS-900, at about half the price. For a 60 watt station it's an incredible performer, and tips are dirt cheap.



 

[tony359]

Thank you.

Thanks for mentioning the Metcal, that is the one where the temperature regulation happens inside the tip because of its metallurgic properties. It must be amazing as it doesn't rely on sensors or anything. Still, a station without a fancy LCD and a temp reading feels "scary"!

I've watched a review and yes, it's impressive. No software, just an inductor and the tip self-regulates so there is no delays or algorithm in the way.

Small drawback, the handpiece+tip is a bit longer and chunky. But clearly a very good option.

I'll give it a few more days, let's see if I stumble into something I like, the PS-900 is definitely on my list! Thank you for your input!

[Arts]

Just for comparative purposes I gathered together a bunch of my handpieces to give you an idea of the sizes between different manufacturers and eras. I tried to place them so that all of the grip areas closest to the tips was aligned as best possible. I included a pic with just the JBC and the Metcal to give a better comparison. Frankly, unless you are doing microscopic-level work, even the huge Weller is still useable. They can all be had with any size/shape tip you can imagine [ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]

This is the order, from top to bottom (station used with is in brackets):
Pace TD-100 (WJS 100)
Hakko FM-2027 (FM-203)
JBC T245-A (CD-1BE)
Metcal PS-HC3 (PS-900)
Hakko FX-8801 (FX-888D)
Weller TC201 (WTCPS)

[Arts]

Oops, had pic problems;

[Arts]

And just the JBC and the Metcal;

[tony359]

Thank for taking the time to post the pics.

The Hakko is cool, I found this very old video with horrendously recorded voiceover which made me laugh!



I found a brand new, genuine, JBC CD-2BQF for £400 all included (no tips) and I am tempted. It's a bit more expensive than others but I have some tips already. The Metcal 900 is cute, though the handpiece is a bit chunkier. Other stations would be more or less in the £400 price tag, particularly when adding my 3 genuine JBC tips on the price of the station.

I like how the idea of "do I need a new soldering station" snowballed into a "I am buying a £400 JBC" However, I like the quick tip change too much to go back and I am using now the station for some work now and I do not want to risk anything when the Aixun gets haywire and the tip goes to 500C - not to mention the free voltage injection feature...

Yes, I could try a clone with a linear supply - but will it be ok? The T3A was also supposed to be ok and it's far from being ok.

[Arts]

I really like that station, and as you already have some genuine tips, you're ahead already. And the increased tip storage makes it more convenient than my model. I may be a bit jealous..
Also, if you want to work with really small SMD, you can pick up the compatible T210 precision handpiece and some C210 cartridges. It don't get much smaller, haha.
I would suggest getting the stainless steel cleaning wool (JBC CL6205) to replace the provided brass wool.

There are chinese clones of everything, and regardless of price and interweb jibber-jabber re how great they are, I can't be bothered. I'd would rather spend more on a quality product, support the people that put in the time and effort towards quality engineering and manufacturing, and be done with it the first time. As the old saying goes about spending the extra for quality, "Buy once, cry once"

[tony359]

Indeed I asked if the 210 handpiece was compatible and they confirmed it it. It might be helpful.

I agree with you about buying once and get something good quality. I try to do that whenever I can. I just thought a soldering iron was a simpler tool than it apparently is

I also tend to find hidden issues with things - I am just an inquisitive person and I tend to find bugs and issues more often than the average person does. So maybe it's a good idea. Still, £400 for a soldering iron is a lot

I guess I have another 24 hours to find a cheaper good alternative! Then I'll break the bank

Thanks so far for your input!

[Arts]

You are very welcome, and I'm glad to try to help!

If you think soldering irons are a difficult decision, you are entirely correct. Horses for courses and all that. And, the photos that I posted don't even include the older stations that have already left the herd; Edsyn, Hexacon etc. Soldering irons are relatively easy though, as they take up relatively little space, but oftentimes a fair amount of dosh. But beware, they are the thin end of the wedge...the gateway...

My Tektronix tube-era oscilloscope collection is a fine example of equipment addiction:

Cheers,
Art

[tony359]

I got the JBC.

Something inside me says it's overpriced - and I do feel it is. But... it works. No voltage leak, no temperature going all over the place. And when doing the "coin test", it performs as good or better than the Aixun which is supposed to be almost twice the power. Assuming my thermometer works, I had to offset the temp by 20C which was unexpected. But then everything works as expected. That weird feeling "it just works!"

The updater software was as bad as the Aixun's though. The station comes with a software which is newer than the one available online. I downloaded the updater anyways to check, the program found an update to the program itself at first install (?), it downloaded itself and installed it but failed to add a link to my Start Menu. Took me a while to find it! And then it said the station doesn't need an update!

I've got the inox wool thing as well, thanks!

One thing I liked of the Aixun was the separate stand, so the station could be kept on a shelf and the small holder on the workbench. Not the end of the world but...

I'll work on some actual PCBs soon and I might come up with a better feedback.

[thm_w]

And when doing the "coin test", it performs as good or better than the Aixun which is supposed to be almost twice the power. Assuming my thermometer works, I had to offset the temp by 20C which was unexpected. But then everything works as expected. That weird feeling "it just works!"

As I recommend here often:
- Plug the iron into a kill-a-watt or other energy measuring device.
- Do some regular every day soldering, do the coin test, see what power the station is drawing.
- Subtract power use at idle with the iron off. This will roughly be the amount of power going into the heater.

You'll see you rarely use more than ~20W for simple tasks. These high watt figures are not always relevant, and are rarely reached unless you stick the tip of the iron directly into cold water.

What thermometer did you use? If its a normal thermocouple you have to very carefully apply solder and make good contact. Its harder to do than a proper tip thermocouple, which has a flat surface: https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fg100b.html

[all_repair]

T12.  So many non-standard uselful tips made by the Chinese hackers/sellers.  More than a soldering iron you shall get. 

[tony359]

it's a cheap solder iron thermometer similar to the one you linked - so it's designed for that task. It measures my room temperature correctly!

Yes, I can see that for the average soldering you'll never get full power into the tip unless you tip your tip (!) in water or on a wet sponge, which is not real world scenario. Even the "coin test" is kind of pointless, I don't solder on copper pipes with my T245! It's like a "sequential" speed test for an SSD: you'll never see that in normal use!

What really matters is accuracy, how quickly the station reacts to temperature change and not having all sort of issues due to grounding/voltage leak/firmware
I've done limited tests on the JBC but for now "it just works". I'm sure there is a cheaper alternative that also "just works" - that's not the T3A. 

[DavidAlfa]

C245 will do great but only if you're willing to pay for original JBC tips, chinese clones perform worse and burn in no time compared to $3 T12 tips.

[dl6lr]

C245 will do great but only if you're willing to pay for original JBC tips, chinese clones perform worse and burn in no time compared to $3 T12 tips.

I am not convinced with T12 tips. I got some from KSGER along with the base and I can tip them into a glass of water. The station then indicates 320°C with 20% power. Same with bigger solder joints, I can solder the tip to the joint and it takes "forever" to heat it up to be freed.
After abt. one year of irregular use, the voltage regulator (ME6203A50) of the board died.

[DavidAlfa]

It heavily depends on the tip, some have a poor heater-body bond, so the thermocouple might read 350ºC while the solder is barely melting.
Performance between two same tips can be completely different, that's what you get for $3.
BTW your tip will die soon after submerging it under water - I did so as my testing load when tuning the firmware PID, all tips died soon afterwards.
Also be realistic about the power delivery and the tip profile, JBC or not, a thin tip won't be able of putting 80W anywhere.

I can't speak of KSGER, but for mew in CFW the power will easily reach 70-80% when dipping the tip in alcohol, just tested it with D12 and D08 tips (Pretty thin) @ 350ºC, about 5mm deep.
A thicker one like D32 will max out pretty easily.

[tony359]

I feel there is some R&D and metallurgic expertise when it comes to soldering tip. JBC/Hakko might be overpriced but when you buy 10 tips for £10, you get what you pay for. Metals and processes cost money! You can copy and save on R&D but the manufacturing process is still there!

I've always purchased genuine Hakko for my Hakko knock-off. The supplied Aoyue were awful, night and day compared to the Hakko's.

[Arts]

I got the JBC.

Something inside me says it's overpriced - and I do feel it is. But... it works. No voltage leak, no temperature going all over the place. And when doing the "coin test", it performs as good or better than the Aixun which is supposed to be almost twice the power. Assuming my thermometer works, I had to offset the temp by 20C which was unexpected. But then everything works as expected. That weird feeling "it just works!"

The updater software was as bad as the Aixun's though. The station comes with a software which is newer than the one available online. I downloaded the updater anyways to check, the program found an update to the program itself at first install (?), it downloaded itself and installed it but failed to add a link to my Start Menu. Took me a while to find it! And then it said the station doesn't need an update!

ks!

One thing I liked of the Aixun was the separate stand, so the station could be kept on a shelf and the small holder on the workbench. Not the end of the world but...

When I first started using my JBC I found that having it in my work area took up too much space. I picked up a separate stand, the JBC "ADS" model, in order to retain the setback and sleep modes, and having more tip storage was a nice bonus. I ended up machining another 4-hole tip holder that I have attached to the rear of the stand, allowing me to have all of my most-used tips at hand.

One small issue was that this stand was not manufactured for use with the CD-1 power station.  Although it uses the same connectors, I needed to rewire the connecting cable. If you go this route, let me know and I'll shoot you my revised connection diagram.

[all_repair]

I've always purchased genuine Hakko for my Hakko knock-off. The supplied Aoyue were awful, night and day compared to the Hakko's.

Don't want to wait and sometime cannot wait when there is a need, usualy I load up as many type of tips as possible.  To save, I went for the used original T12 tips that the Japanese factories discard way prematurely due to the strict QC.  They are good enough for my occasional use of the weird tips.  As usual, when there is sale volume, there are clones :-) 

[elektryk]

It heavily depends on the tip, some have a poor heater-body bond, so the thermocouple might read 350ºC while the solder is barely melting.
Performance between two same tips can be completely different, that's what you get for $3.
BTW your tip will die soon after submerging it under water - I did so as my testing load when tuning the firmware PID, all tips died soon afterwards.
Also be realistic about the power delivery and the tip profile, JBC or not, a thin tip won't be able of putting 80W anywhere.

I can't speak of KSGER, but for mew in CFW the power will easily reach 70-80% when dipping the tip in alcohol, just tested it with D12 and D08 tips (Pretty thin) @ 350ºC, about 5mm deep.
A thicker one like D32 will max out pretty easily.

What usually dies sooner, tip or heater?
I've tested some OSS Team branded C245 and that ones performed good. Eg. I was able to desolder DPAK transistor from a computer motherboard with K type.
I'm not sure about the durability but heat transfer seems to be not worse than T12. The only problem is that OSS has a very little types to choice.

[DavidAlfa]

Always the heater or internal connections, never got any chinese T12 for longer than 1 year with little use.
But acceptable for $3.

[shapirus]

I don't know guys. I've got probably a dozen T12 tips, all bought from aliexpress (of course after checking the 1-2-3-star reviews). The only problem I have ever experienced with them was that they often needed to be sort of "broken in", i.e., left running for a certain time at first turn-on: the temperature readings are very unstable at first, but then they stabilize, and you can proceed to calibration. After that, not a single problem in ~14 months since I converted to T12. All the tips are still like new, they work, and they don't require recalibration.

Speaking of the soldering station itself, mine is KSGER T12, STM32 V2.01. That generation did not have chassis wired to earth, so I had to drill a hole, sand off anodizing in a few spots to make sure that all parts of the housing had electrical contact, and add that earthing wire myself. Oh, and I also reversed orientation of the power switch, because it was initially installed as "lower half is pressed when powered on", which is the most horrible thing one can ever do: of course, it must be "press up to power on, press down to power off". Other than this, no issues whatsoever. It just works and still delivers power just as expected.

[elektryk]

That's even funny that in my case T12 can stand longer than heaters separated from tips (ZD929, SL10) but those cheapo tips have some disadvantages, eg. BC4Z which has worse heat transfer than BCM2 or K with almost 10Ohm heater...

[dl6lr]

It heavily depends on the tip, some have a poor heater-body bond, so the thermocouple might read 350ºC while the solder is barely melting.

Well, I can only speak for KSGER K and BCM2 and BCM3. The latter two should deliver quite some power as they have a short and big tip. I only use it for light work now, as my Weller WTCP with 4PTBS7 delivers *WAY* more power into the solder point.
The K is even more disappointing as the solder does not stick to the blade, making it nearly impossible to transfer heat into the solder point.
The J02 works well as it is only for light soldering with its slim tip.

Performance between two same tips can be completely different, that's what you get for $3.

That way I better spend more money on tips with reliable performance.

BTW your tip will die soon after submerging it under water - I did so as my testing load when tuning the firmware PID, all tips died soon afterwards.
Also be realistic about the power delivery and the tip profile, JBC or not, a thin tip won't be able of putting 80W anywhere.

The tips survived and are still in use after two years.

[uli12us]

I own an aifen A9 since a bit more than a year. This part have the same performance like an original JBC BT-2BA station. It can use the 115, 210, 245 Irons, instead of the only 245 of the original JBC.
6 seconds to heating up to leadfree temperature with JBC or Aifen. But I don't have a soldering thermometer, so I can't compare the real temperature, overshot and similar effects with the JBC station.
The last year, the station do all, that I want with 3 different Irons, but merely the 245. For smaller parts, its good to have the option, to work with the 115 iron instead the much bigger 245.
The TO have the Aifen A9 pro in the wish list. I don't like it, the main difference is, there is a separate analog display of the heating power, instead the % value of the A9 without pro.
Imo, the analog display is completely useless. Instead of the watersponge, it have a metal brush as well, thats another deteil I don't like, instead I use a silicon sponge from a kitchen accessoire shop.

[GreyWoolfe]

I have a Metcal MX-500 II and a Hakko FX-951.  Got the Hakko first then got a stupid deal on the Metcal with wand, tweezers and stands afterward.  I use them both but favor the Metcal, it's a little more comfortable.   I only use Metcal or Thermaltronics tips and original Hakko tips and I have no drama.  I understand that sometimes cheap is what can be afforded but for me, the aggravation isn't worth the cost savings.  It is worth it to me to save up and buy OEM and get exactly what I want and the performance I expect.

[slavoy]

If you were buying a T12 or 210/245 today, which one would you recommend ?

It depends on what you need it for. For general use at home or for hobbies, T12 is a good choice. For professional daily use and precision microsoldering work, JBC is a better option (variety of tips). For hobbyists, the price difference does not translate to a significant performance difference. T12 is fully sufficient. Of course, if you can afford it, go for JBC. It is better made and the tips hold their shape. But it is more expensive. T12 tips are not precisely made, there are differences between the same tips. In JBC, each tip is perfectly compliant with the technical drawing

[shapirus]

For hobbyists, the price difference does not translate to a significant performance difference. T12 is fully sufficient.

Sometimes it isn't, but seldom: T12 may not deliver sufficient heating power for soldering some heavy, thermally inert stuff. Again, it doesn't happen very often. I've had no trouble soldering, for example, wires to 32700 cells with T12, and I mean doing it properly, in just a couple of seconds. Using big tips such as the hoof-style C08/C10/C15 helps too.

[elektryk]

T12 tips are not precisely made

Have you tried (genuine) T15 tips?

wires to 32700 cells with T12

There's no problem with soldering wires to li-ion cells with T12, in my opinion the worst are computer/notebook motherboards that require a lot of heat, especially when soldering THT connectors.

[shapirus]

wires to 32700 cells with T12

There's no problem to solder wires to li-ion cells with T12

Right, but I used this example to demonstrate one of applications which was next to impossible with my previous soldering station, which was a 50W indirect-heating 900M-compatible clone; whereas with T12 it's not a problem at all.
Direct heating makes a huge difference, and T12 delivers plenty of power, but it still may not be enough for certain uses.

in my opinion the worst are computer/notebook motherboards which need a lot of heat, especially when soldering THT connectors.

Yes, if that's a typical use case, then a higher power soldering station (and tips) will definitely be justified.

(De)soldering bigger transistor/triac heat sinks is another example.

I've not had to do any of these in a long time now, but it's interesting: next time I'll pay special attention to how realistic it is to do using T12 with a bigger tip.

[elektryk]

I've not had to do any of these in a long time now, but it's interesting: next time I'll pay special attention to how realistic it is to do using T12 with a bigger tip.

It should help with large pads but motherboards often have very small pads (tiny pad on one layer and power plane/polygon on that one which is not accesible with the tip), tight vias and RoHS solder, so sometimes even preheating is needed.
Last time I've tried solder paste with bismuth to desoldering job and it helped a lot to desolder USB A connector without destroying.

[GnomeZA]

Firstly I can't make a recommendation based on the all the tips you are asking about because I've only used T245, from your list, but I'm going to try provide a view anyway.

I was using a TS100 for a few years and in retrospect it is a terrible iron.
T245 was like angels descended from heaven, that is the difference between a good station and a low cost iron.

With that said, I'm running Aixun T420D (but I own T3A and it was the same experience) with the JBC C245939 cartridge knife.
I actually own about 6 original JBC tips (so I recommend this tip having tried others).
I also own a T115 hand piece and about 4 JBC original T115 cartridges.

But that cartridge knife tip is what changed my life.  That will make quick work of any high thermal soldering job.  You don't even need to go crazy on the temperatures.  At 350c lead free soldering will melt even on very difficult high thermal joints, it is shockingly good actually.

I pretty much use that thing by default now (but usually at 290c) and my T115 (also a cartidge knife but a really tiny one).
If I didn't have the T115, my second go to on the T245 is JBC C245041.

Between those two you can get everything done and I was able to actually soldering very small SMD components, it was just a LOT of work with the T245 vs the T115 now.
I never ran into anything I could not do with T245, using those two tips and time (I've barely used my other tips in comparison)
Disclaimer, I never soldered smaller than 0603 SMD (I have now with T115 but only because I had to)
Below 0603, I wish you luck with anything but T115 tbh (and even then I wish you luck, you need a VERY steady hand, hold your breath, imagine you are a sniper)

[bastler59]

And how much does the JBC 75W compare to the Aixun "200W"?  

I don't know any original JBC station, but for chinese manufactors data seems to be more fiction than reality!

My Aixun T320 takes 175 W from grid, when it has to heat up from standby for set temperature - in my case from 120 °C to 325 °C.  During soldering with a C245-755 tip on something that pulls out a lot of heat, it takes only 92 W. I don't see higher values. And I sampled those data 4times per second.

Before I tested a Yihua 982 and was suprised, that performance was poor. It is also a soldering station for C210 and C245, I liked the idea to change handle and have different power. But with same C245-755 tip and same soldering situation the Yihua station takes only 40 W from grid. On other side, this station has no problem with grounding.

My conclusion is, that you can't believe informations that chinese manufactors publish for their products! 

P.S.: I have to confess, that solder tip I used wasn't original JBC neither from Aixun. So it is possible, that only tips from Aixun may have a lower resistance and can produce 200 W from 24 V.  The shop where I bought solder station only offers C245-I, C245-S and C245-K. 

[slavoy]

it takes only 92 W.

Put the tip in a water tank and you will see full peak power. 92W for heavy soldering is a pretty good result. 

[GnomeZA]

And how much does the JBC 75W compare to the Aixun "200W"?  

I don't know any original JBC station, but for chinese manufactors data seems to be more fiction than reality!

The thing is, the power rating of a station is like the power rating of a DC power supply.
It is only relevant in so much as the maximum capable power.

Hopefully you wouldn't say "for chinese manufactors" every time a DC power supply claims 100w but you are connecting a 25w bulb to the supply and then seeing 25w?

P.S.: I have to confess, that solder tip I used wasn't original JBC neither from Aixun. So it is possible, that only tips from Aixun may have a lower resistance and can produce 200 W from 24 V.  The shop where I bought solder station only offers C245-I, C245-S and C245-K.

What are you attempting to test?

If you want to test the station output power, then wouldn't it make more sense to remove the cartridge out of the equation?
Use a load tester or something more suitable?

If you are attempting to test how much power your cartridge gets, I would argue your life would a be lot easier if you didn't treat the cartridge parameters as a hidden variable.
Meaning you know the actual resistive heater element's resistance and using that you can at least determine how the station is performing in relation to what is physically possible.

[litris]

Always the heater or internal connections, never got any chinese T12 for longer than 1 year with little use.
But acceptable for $3.

I have had a Yihua 937D ESD station for over 15 years and have never had to change the 907A handle, I bought another original Hakko 907A ESD handle and never took it out of the box.

But I am looking forward to enjoy the speed in heating up of a C245 and a T420 station but I read that the cartridges have a short life.

I have read this on many sites and this disappoints me if I will go worse.

I will still buy emergency spares but the peace of mind I have with my station looks like I won't have with this range of new soldering irons.

I always used JBC even the holders, any accessory, soldering iron etc was JBC but I discovered the world of Chinese stations and I saw an improvement and savings, I did not miss JBC.

But if they are going to die soon these stations or handles I may have to go back to the JBC although I am not going to use it professionally anymore as it is now just for hobby pcb design own and random repairs I don't need to spend much although I keep my other Fluke measuring equipment I could not use see a value on non Fluke measuring device I would have a hard time 😅

For less professional use would these T420 tips be ok and would I have to buy JBC? Any advice on other brands?

Thank you.