Is this KNIPEX 97 33 02 Crimp Tool the best out there?

[SparkyFX]

Any thoughts on this crimp tool by Knipex, it has dies that can be changed.
https://export.farnell.com/knipex/97-33-02/multicrimp-pliers-charger-w-5/dp/1560900

I'm looking for an extremely high quality crimp tool that can handle automotive crimp bits (Ring, spade, splice etc.) and Dupont crimp terminals for PCB type housing/pin-outs.

I own that one (and the 5 inserts, for one insert there are two versions 97 39 13 ["A"]), and it is good for what it is, but there is no die available for automotive connectors that i know of or would recommend.

Actually "automotive" is all over the place, there are dozens of sizes and variants which pretty much require "their" special shaped crimp tool and as wiring harness manufacturers automated the process, manual tools are even more expensive as they are probably not using the same kind of insert. If you want to crimp according to specification you got to go with the contact manufacturer's tool.

Check this thread for what to watch out for when crimping DuPont-contacts: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/affordable-crimp-tools-for-small-connectors-(dupont-etc-)/

[bsodmike]

Are these equivalent to "DuPont contacts"? Or AMP MODU IV? I find "DuPont connector" as suggestive as "Molex connector": there are so many, many of them.

I found this to be an excellent resource to understand the various types of connectors out there and many trying to masquerade as "DuPont" connectors (at least, the real Amphenol type). http://tech.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/

Also checkout tooki's various comments in https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/affordable-crimp-tools-for-small-connectors-(dupont-etc-)/ as he really going into detail on which tools to get.  For Dupont (Mini-PV) connectors he's recommending SN-4228B off AliExpress.

[jfiresto]

Thank you for the link to Matt Millman's crimping contacts and tools survey: it has cleared up a lot of questions and tempts me to buy the Molex Micro-fit die I have been considering for a while. There are worse sins in life than collecting good tools. Right?

[bsodmike]

Haha indeed

[exmadscientist]

I found this to be an excellent resource to understand the various types of connectors out there and many trying to masquerade as "DuPont" connectors (at least, the real Amphenol type). http://tech.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/

That's a great link, but apart from a passing reference to PIDG, it doesn't cover one of the most common types of connector, the ring/spade/fork/splice/etc connector, which TE (formerly AMP) markets as "PIDG", "Pre-Insulated Diamond Grip". (Of course, they're not the only manufacturer of these things.)

If you need a good crimper for these things, I'd like to give a shoutout to the TE 59824-1 TETRA-CRIMP, which can handle all common PIDG terminals as well as genuine FASTON receptacles (females), though not the FASTON tabs. Certain other manufacturers make you buy a different tool for each terminal shape (really!), but this one does them all, does it well, and does it easily enough that even a crimping boor like me can get great results. And it's even UL approved for all of the above, if that sort of thing matters to you.

Its only real downside is that, just like every other approved and guaranteed crimp tool, it's expensive at around US$320 from the usual suspects.

[bsodmike]

I found this to be an excellent resource to understand the various types of connectors out there and many trying to masquerade as "DuPont" connectors (at least, the real Amphenol type). http://tech.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/

That's a great link, but apart from a passing reference to PIDG, it doesn't cover one of the most common types of connector, the ring/spade/fork/splice/etc connector, which TE (formerly AMP) markets as "PIDG", "Pre-Insulated Diamond Grip". (Of course, they're not the only manufacturer of these things.)

If you need a good crimper for these things, I'd like to give a shoutout to the TE 59824-1 TETRA-CRIMP, which can handle all common PIDG terminals as well as genuine FASTON receptacles (females), though not the FASTON tabs. Certain other manufacturers make you buy a different tool for each terminal shape (really!), but this one does them all, does it well, and does it easily enough that even a crimping boor like me can get great results. And it's even UL approved for all of the above, if that sort of thing matters to you.

Its only real downside is that, just like every other approved and guaranteed crimp tool, it's expensive at around US$320 from the usual suspects.

Just to point out, this Rennsteig die is compatible with the above mentioned "ring/spade/fork/splice/etc connector".

"Crimp Tool Die, 0.5mm² to 6mm², 20-10AWG Insulated Terminals / Connectors (Red, Blue, Yellow)"
https://export.farnell.com/rennsteig/624-060-3-0/die-set-crimp-system-plier/dp/2518362?st=624%20060%203%200

Here's the tool body:
https://export.farnell.com/rennsteig/624-000-3/crimp-tool-2c-grip-burnish-0-8/dp/2517588?st=624%20000%203

Both come to ~US$210.

[tooki]

I found this to be an excellent resource to understand the various types of connectors out there and many trying to masquerade as "DuPont" connectors (at least, the real Amphenol type). http://tech.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/

That's a great link, but apart from a passing reference to PIDG, it doesn't cover one of the most common types of connector, the ring/spade/fork/splice/etc connector, which TE (formerly AMP) markets as "PIDG", "Pre-Insulated Diamond Grip". (Of course, they're not the only manufacturer of these things.)

That’s because that page isn’t attempting to be a survey of all types of crimp connections. The page title does say: COMMON WIRE-TO-BOARD, WIRE-TO-WIRE CONNECTORS, AND CRIMP TOOLS. (Sorry, I’m on my phone, not gonna retype to de-scream the all caps. :p )

The focus is clearly really on wire to board, and even then really only on smaller ones. PIDG and similar are far afield of what that page is about. (Insulated terminals are also generally much less fussy about the tool than small wire to board connectors.)

But honestly, I feel there is a huge need for a hobbyist-friendly cross-reference database of contacts, housings, tools, etc. of all sizes. Crimping is a minefield, and I think it’d be hugely useful to know not only what cheap tools work, but also what quality tools work for other contacts (the way that I use an AMPMODU crimper for DuPont and KK254 and clones thereof).

[appoli13]

Hi,

Newbie here - long time listener, first time caller.

Apologies for posting on a thread that’s a bit stagnant, but I think I may have come across some pertinent information so I figured I would post it. either spread the info and/or have it fact-checked:

I was looking for a crimper that is suitable for DuPont connectors (and ideally Mollex, etc etc), specifically for one from Knipex as I’m a big fan or some other nice, but hopefully not too expensive, manufacturer. It seemed like most of their crimpers aren’t made for those ferrules (right word? I forget) so I did a search and found this post - it & the others referenced at the beginning were a great help!

After digging some more, however, I believe I may have come across a couple Knipex models that *are* suitable for DuPont, etc. I did some googling to make sure there haven’t been posts about this tool before (found one on a German forum, possibly a new tool from Knipex?) and here we are.
The following are the tool numbers, one is for 0.1-2.5mm wires and the other 0.5-6.0mm I believe:

97 52 34 (0.1-2.5mm, this is the first tool I came across and looked at more thoroughly. Seems to have the right features on it’s die)
97 52 35 (0.5-6.0mm, the item number sequence would fit it being of the same variety/style just larger)

Links for the 97 52 30:
https://www.knipex.com/products/crimping-pliers/knipex-preciforce-crimping-pliers/knipex-preciforcecrimping-pliers/975234
https://www.amazon.com/97-52-34-PreciForce-non-insulated/dp/B000ZECEOQ/ref=pd_aw_di_ci_mcx_2l_mi_ca_mcx_picks_views_17?pd_rd_w=DCI1Q&pf_rd_p=3fe70698-0cfc-4664-ada9-f60598343b42&pf_rd_r=S2TZY2QGGNX26TJS2K7X&pd_rd_r=871fffc3-e2e7-42c8-b2da-396b21a3e8aa&pd_rd_wg=LrVM5&pd_rd_i=B000ZECEOQ

As with most knipex tools it’s not cheap, but at $155 on Amazon & $140 on chad’s toolbox it isn’t ‘horrible’ (aka as expensive as the other crimpers in that product line & below $150…!)

Anyway, I am not sure if I’m going to buy it yet (been using regular pliers + my linesman pliers that have a crimping accessory so not a total necessity), but if I end up doing so I def would like to know if others think it fits the task. And bonus maybe this will help some other readers

Cheers! 🙂

[SteveyG]

I use the Harwin M20 Z20-320 crimper, which is similar form factor to the older style Molex crimpers. Harwin M20 appears to be interchangeable with these "dupont" connectors.

[wraper]

After digging some more, however, I believe I may have come across a couple Knipex models that *are* suitable for DuPont, etc. I did some googling to make sure there haven’t been posts about this tool before (found one on a German forum, possibly a new tool from Knipex?) and here we are.
The following are the tool numbers, one is for 0.1-2.5mm wires and the other 0.5-6.0mm I believe:

97 52 34 (0.1-2.5mm, this is the first tool I came across and looked at more thoroughly. Seems to have the right features on it’s die)
97 52 35 (0.5-6.0mm, the item number sequence would fit it being of the same variety/style just larger)

Completely unsuitable for Dupont. Crimping die should look like this:

[wraper]

Cheap IWISS SN-025 seems to have a proper die.

[tooki]

I use the Harwin M20 Z20-320 crimper, which is similar form factor to the older style Molex crimpers. Harwin M20 appears to be interchangeable with these "dupont" connectors.

Yep, that model is mentioned on Matt Millman’s page linked earlier.

[armandine2]

This type of thread is quite like a shop window to me, tools have appeal and will capture your desire to own them - even without that much real knowledge of how they in fact fully accomplish their prescribed work.

Common questions asked in the format of "what is the best tool?"are often replied with "well, what do you want to do with this "hypothetically" best tool. The question isn't answered because it is implicit in the question: what are the jobs I can do with this best tool?

Back to the Crimp Connector and crimp tool  - we see the tool and the job are intrinsically (is that the right word) linked. I once bought a beautiful looking stapler whose sole acceptable staple was no longer produced or readily available to buy. The quest to buy staples for it is not without appeal - but the stapler remains unused.

The "figure and ground" of the situation should be borne in mind.

Edited for grammar

[tooki]

Are these equivalent to "DuPont contacts"? Or AMP MODU IV? I find "DuPont connector" as suggestive as "Molex connector": there are so many, many of them.

No, and they need different crimping die. Also AMP MODU IV is different from DuPont.

AMP MODU IV


DuPont

I somehow missed this reply way back when it was posted.

FYI, while DuPont and AMPMODU are indeed not the same, I can speak from about a year of experience now that a genuine AMPMODU MOD IV crimp tool works quite well for DuPont terminals. It’s not up to military standards I’m sure, but I’ve made hundreds of crimps with it using Chinese DuPont contacts (as well as Molex KK254-type contacts).

Most MOD IV contacts actually have the offset insulation wings (unlike the example in the photo above, which has the flat insulation wings; no idea why AMP used both styles in one series), so the tool is designed with the circular insulation die that works for both.

The housings are completely different for DuPont and AMPMODU. The closest to DuPont from a western manufacturer are the Mini-PV series, but the tolerances are different and so Mini-PV parts and Chinese DuPont parts don’t always fit.

My suspicion is that the Chinese DuPont clones are actually clones of JST HE/HF series, with the contacts having the mating half copied from HE/HF, but the insulation crimp from Mini-PV…

[HighVoltage]

Crimp tools are also largely depending on how many crimps you have to do.
For these kind of small terminals and low quantity crimping, I got these Engineer Crimp Tools from Japan.
They work very well and they are very stiff and precise.

Model PA-09
1.0 mm to 1.9 mm

Model PA-20
1.6 mm to 2.3 mm

[wraper]

Crimp tools are also largely depending on how many crimps you have to do.
For these kind of small terminals and low quantity crimping, I got these Engineer Crimp Tools from Japan.
They work very well and they are very stiff and precise.

Model PA-09
1.0 mm to 1.9 mm

Model PA-20
1.6 mm to 2.3 mm

I have PA-09 and it's not a good tool. I needed to file ends of the jaws so they can close tighter. Before that, most of the crimps it made were a loose garbage from which often I could easily pull the wire out. Secondly crimps often get stuck in the jaws (which worsened after modifying it to close tighter), so it's hard to remove them. Thirdly, instead of blackening jaws are covered with a crappy paint which comes off in pieces. First it was only crimp contamination with tiny paint particles, then is started coming off from the sides after being stored with some other tools in the toolbox. IMHO it's an overpriced and overvalued garbage.

[armandine2]

Thanks to Wraper's amazon.de link

I can today post a picture - not sure if it helps

[HighVoltage]

Crimp tools are also largely depending on how many crimps you have to do.
For these kind of small terminals and low quantity crimping, I got these Engineer Crimp Tools from Japan.
They work very well and they are very stiff and precise.

Model PA-09
1.0 mm to 1.9 mm

Model PA-20
1.6 mm to 2.3 mm

I have PA-09 and it's not a good tool. I needed to file ends of the jaws so they can close tighter. Before that, most of the crimps it made were a loose garbage from which often I could easily pull the wire out. Secondly crimps often get stuck in the jaws (which worsened after modifying it to close tighter), so it's hard to remove them. Thirdly, instead of blackening jaws are covered with a crappy paint which comes off in pieces. First it was only crimp contamination with tiny paint particles, then is started coming off from the sides after being stored with some other tools in the toolbox. IMHO it's an overpriced and overvalued garbage.

It almost seems we are talking about two different tools.
Maybe you got a bad batch.
I am very happy with these tools from Japan, especially for the small pitch terminals.

Another company that mainly makes crimping tools is Rennsteig in Germany.
https://www.rennsteig.com/en/
They belong to Knipex but have a much wider range.

Also, if one has the need for a special die they make custom dies for reasonable prices.

[wraper]

It almost seems we are talking about two different tools.
Maybe you got a bad batch.
I am very happy with these tools from Japan, especially for the small pitch terminals.

Crimps for sure looked good without modification, but they were not good crimps. Unless you try to pull the wire, especially without insulation crimped, you won't know your crimps are bad. Even if it was a bad batch, my 3rd point stands. No decent tool should be covered with black paint instead of blackening. Funnily the claw that keeps it in closed position is actually blackened when jaws are what needs it the most .

[HighVoltage]

Crimps for sure looked good without modification, but they were not good crimps. Unless you try to pull the wire, especially without insulation crimped, you won't know your crimps are bad. Even if it was a bad batch, my 3rd point stands. No decent tool should be covered with black paint instead of blackening. Funnily the claw that keeps it in closed position is actually blackened when jaws are what needs it the most .

I think it largely also depends on the type of terminals that one needs to crimp.
Maybe I got lucky to have only crimped terminals that fit this tool.

I do agree in the paint!

Also, one complaint I have with almost all crimping tools including this one, the printing (silkscreen) is always on the wrong side for right handed people. What are these designers thinking?

[tooki]

It almost seems we are talking about two different tools.
Maybe you got a bad batch.
I am very happy with these tools from Japan, especially for the small pitch terminals.

Crimps for sure looked good without modification, but they were not good crimps. Unless you try to pull the wire, especially without insulation crimped, you won't know your crimps are bad. Even if it was a bad batch, my 3rd point stands. No decent tool should be covered with black paint instead of blackening. Funnily the claw that keeps it in closed position is actually blackened when jaws are what needs it the most .

Other than the ones for insulated terminals, I’ve never seen a top-quality crimp tool where the jaws themselves (that is, the inside surfaces that actually touch the terminal) are blackened. Instead, they’re polished to a bright mirror shine.

[tooki]

Also, one complaint I have with almost all crimping tools including this one, the printing (silkscreen) is always on the wrong side for right handed people. What are these designers thinking?

Huh? When you hold it in your right hand, the printing faces you.

What I don’t understand is why they don’t simply print it on both sides, since lefties aren’t exactly rare.

[wraper]

Other than the ones for insulated terminals, I’ve never seen a top-quality crimp tool where the jaws themselves (that is, the inside surfaces that actually touch the terminal) are blackened. Instead, they’re polished to a bright mirror shine.

Well, inside surfaces may be not blackened, but jaw outside is. Though Pressmaster and Knipex crimpers are blackened both inside and outside. Engineer crimper is covered with black paint both inside the jaws and outside.

[tooki]

While I, too, have never seen a top quality crimper that used paint, the quality of the jaw’s working surfaces matters a great deal more than the surface finish of nonfunctional areas.

[wraper]

While I, too, have never seen a top quality crimper that used paint, the quality of the jaw’s working surfaces matters a great deal more than the surface finish of nonfunctional areas.

The issue is that functional areas are covered with paint too. Therefore you get paint contamination on the crimps.