any pics of the one you have?
I know this isn't geared at me, but just in case someone wanna know how to do things properly, this is what I have:
The PSU board doesn't directly touch the enclosure (which is metal), it's held in with plastic spacers, screws and nuts (I drilled 4MM holes with precision for that purpose), I've also drilled a side hole (for grounding) and used a flat screwdriver to expose the metal around it (the enclosure itself is painted with non-conductive black paint, so this had to be done). The spacers themselves are hollow (non-threaded) so I've done is, I've manually put in each screw & spacer, then taped it at the bottom with kapton tape, placed the PSU board on it, locked it up with the nuts, and then removed the kapton. I've used a 20AWG silicone wire for the AC & ON/OFF switch. There are 3 wires with terminal loops (for grounding) and the terminals are both soldered & crimped and connect to the side screw and locked in with a nut (one coming from the grounding AC pin, one coming from the PSU board, soldered to the DC minus, also with a 20AWG, and one coming from the controller, which goes to the tip). The way I've had it grounded, it's full on AC/DC (even a short in the DC would trigger the grounding & breaker). On the PSU board, right side is the live wire, left is the neutral (although, with this particular board, it'd work either way) the only thing that really matters is that the switch is wired with the live wire. The micky mouse power input is not fused (but the PSU board is). Anyways, I've had my first PSU board working like a champ for 3 years straight (recently had to replace it, as it crapped out, the display started to flicker on and off out of nowhere) this was resolved after replacing it of course!
Some of the parts used (well most of em, except for the grounding screw & loop terminals I already had in store):
Enclosure:
https://www.banggood.com/DIY-T12-Digital-Soldering-Iron-Station-Aluminum-Black-Shell-Case-Power-Socket-Switch-p-1121499.htmlThis one didn't properly align with the controller's display (had to use small needle files to slightly expand the encoder hole to the left for that, so the encoder itself is a bit off aligned due to that, but as long as the display's good, I don't mind it)
PSU Board:
https://www.banggood.com/Geekcreit-AC100-220V-to-DC-24V-Switching-Power-Supply-Board-AC-DC-Power-Module-p-969204.htmlT12 Kit (standard led controller+iron):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32803671016.htmlDo note that newer versions of this controller comes with the 3PIN connector facing the top, from the display's side (instead of side ways from the back, like in mine) and this may require soldering the wires directly from the other end (with the provided enclosure) due to not having enough clearance to close it.
Extra handle with better precision (for SMD work):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000130747937.html12MM M3 screws:
https://www.banggood.com/Suleve-M3CH4-100Pcs-M3-Carbon-Steel-Countersunk-Hex-Socket-Screw-6-20mm-Flat-Head-Hex-Screw-Metric-p-1009073.htmlM3 Nuts:
https://www.banggood.com/Suleve-M3AN9-10pcs-M3-Aluminum-Alloy-Hexagonal-Hex-Nut-Lock-Nut-Multicolor-p-1228870.html4MM Plastic Spacers:
https://www.banggood.com/100Pcs-M3-White-Nylon-ABS-Non-Threaded-Spacer-Round-Hollow-Standoff-PCB-Board-4-or-5-or-6-or-8-or-10-or-12mm-p-1371223.htmlHope someone would find this useful when building their own T12!
I personally prefer the plain T12 controller over the OLED one.
Edit: Just realized I've mistakenly thought this thread was about their T12
But nevertheless, I'm sure the above will be useful