Author Topic: KSGER T12 STM32 V3.1S soldering station (Read 57190 times)

flurl · « **on:** December 29, 2019, 03:41:52 pm »

Hi!

I just wanted to buy a KSGER T12 soldering station from aliexpress. When I noticed that there's been a new version V3.1S released, see https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/STM32-V3-1S-Station/1486111_516916735.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.58f51775oP5qmU

I didn't find any information about the differences to V2.1S. Does anyone know?

Thanks!

Jon.C · « **Reply #1 on:** December 29, 2019, 08:19:26 pm »

my 2.1s exploded within 10 months of buying it

flurl · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2019, 12:24:54 pm »

I got an answer from the aliexpress store:

Quote

V3.1S add Russian language,and fixed some small problems on V2.1S,and V3.1S is much more stable than V2.1S

I guess, I'll give V3.1S a shot

Jon.C · « **Reply #3 on:** January 08, 2020, 06:22:52 am »

Quote from: Jon.C on December 29, 2019, 08:19:26 pm

my 2.1s exploded within 10 months of buying it

KSGER sends me a new free power supply

Electric Elf · « **Reply #4 on:** January 08, 2020, 12:39:23 pm »

From the store named KSGER T12

Quote

KSGER 2020 New Arrival V3.1S T12-K,BC2,BC3,ILS,D24,B,KU Solder Tips STM32 OLED T12 Soldering Station Gift For Boy Friend
Attention: you can choose the tips' types as you need, make a note in the order to replace the standard types, but BCM2 BCM3 are not avilable in this kit.
the order will be sent out within 24 hours.

3.1S Advantage:
1. more stable system
2. with Russian language
3. succinct display
4. oversize temperature number shows(especially for older persons are better, easy to look)

I am also interested what other issues are fixed, as I have the old one. And/or option to upgrade the firmware without buying new hardware.

saratoga · « **Reply #5 on:** January 09, 2020, 02:26:34 pm »

Once you get it, open up the unit and post pictures.

flurl · « **Reply #6 on:** January 16, 2020, 11:55:40 am »

I got mine yesterday

Jon.C · « **Reply #7 on:** January 16, 2020, 07:51:25 pm »

thanks for the pictures

that transformer looks a bit ugly

ulwur · « **Reply #8 on:** January 18, 2020, 03:58:34 pm »

Looks like that live trace still is routed underneath the heatsink with only the soldermask as insulation.

flurl · « **Reply #9 on:** January 20, 2020, 06:34:23 am »

That's some kind of cardboard remnant on the transformer. Not sure, why cardboard is glued to a transformer at all.
Yes, no difference in that trace insulation as far as I can say - don't have the predecessor.

Another quirk I noticed: From time to time the station turned on on itself, even when the switch was turned off. Just for half a second or so. I noticed it beeping or the screen blinking. That stopped after I turned the plug 180° in the socket to change live and neutral.

cobramostar · « **Reply #10 on:** January 25, 2020, 03:49:11 pm »

you can give information on how to act hw 1.3 and the capabilities of plugging in the jbc 245 as this possibility, if any, is very attractive
is it advisable to buy

thanx you

mattej · « **Reply #11 on:** February 07, 2020, 08:14:41 am »

Quote from: ulwur on January 18, 2020, 03:58:34 pm

Looks like that live trace still is routed underneath the heatsink with only the soldermask as insulation.

I'm using HW v2.1, and the heatsink is actually floating, the same is seen on the pictures of v3.1. There's thermal pad (non conductive) beneath the TO-220 and screw itself has a white plastic spacer that does not allow screw to touch the sink of of the TO-220.

Anyway, the v2.1 is now 35$ on BG if anyone cares to grab a cheap one, not the newest one.

is-this-taken · « **Reply #12 on:** February 24, 2020, 11:44:01 pm »

I'm considering getting the v3.1 hardware, are there any knows issues?
Also, how does it compare to 2.1, besides the listed changes?

benadamson · « **Reply #13 on:** May 02, 2020, 07:03:16 pm »

I'm also interested in if there's any useful changes in this version. I've tried to sum up a couple of other posts below. I'm uncertain if a V1 was ever sold or marketed as V1.

From what I've found in this response and this response:

V2.0:

Had LDO overheating issues
Doesn't appear to be sold now

V2.01:

Earliest version still sold?
Fixed overheating issue with a copper pour
Approx £35 as kit with 2 tips and plastic handle

V2.1S:

Has pads for MOSFETs for pumps, however these seem 'pre-vestigial' in that the functionality isn't there yet
Has a bug where there is high parasitic drain from the RTC battery (fixable by removing R10)
Approx £45 as kit with 2 tips and plastic handle

V3.1S:

Undefined 'stability improvements'
"Succinct" display, whatever that means, possibly just referring to the larger font of the temperature readout
Russian language support
Approx £55 as kit with 2 tips and plastic handle

From all of this it appears that there's nothing particularly useful worthy of the £20 premium the 3.1S model has over the 2.01 model.
Perhaps someone else here has more information on other changes / safety improvements / firmware improvements between the versions?

Gandalf_Sr · « **Reply #14 on:** May 17, 2020, 10:32:23 am »

It looks like R10 is still fitted to the control PCB; unless the schematic is updated and RefDes renumbering has occurred, that means a battery life of 2 weeks. Not sure I'm convinced that this is better than 2.1 which I have 2 of.

KL27x · « **Reply #15 on:** May 19, 2020, 02:13:12 am »

Gandalf, look at the post counts. This thread is KSGER marketing BS.

Electric Elf · « **Reply #16 on:** May 19, 2020, 02:10:45 pm »

Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on May 17, 2020, 10:32:23 am

It looks like R10 is still fitted to the control PCB; unless the schematic is updated and RefDes renumbering has occurred, that means a battery life of 2 weeks. Not sure I'm convinced that this is better than 2.1 which I have 2 of.

Mine has R10 (V2.1S) and does not drain the battery at all - it sits stored for the last 3 months, in a drawer. Bought Nov. 26 2018 from KSGER Official Store on Aliexpress, although it is not for sale anymore.

Gandalf_Sr · « **Reply #17 on:** May 19, 2020, 02:42:58 pm »

They've renumbered the components, R10 is a single resistor that sits across the battery in the 2.1S versions.

hpmaxim · « **Reply #18 on:** May 22, 2020, 02:03:47 pm »

Anyone know how this compares to Quicko's T12 STM32 station: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32994824865.html

Gandalf_Sr · « **Reply #19 on:** May 22, 2020, 07:00:29 pm »

Quote from: hpmaxim on May 22, 2020, 02:03:47 pm

Anyone know how this compares to Quicko's T12 STM32 station: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32994824865.html

The control board looks the same but the power supply board is a different one, the most obvious difference is that there's a DC input on the Quicko's PCB.

hpmaxim · « **Reply #20 on:** May 22, 2020, 07:48:33 pm »

Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on May 22, 2020, 07:00:29 pm

Quote from: hpmaxim on May 22, 2020, 02:03:47 pm
Anyone know how this compares to Quicko's T12 STM32 station: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32994824865.html
The control board looks the same but the power supply board is a different one, the most obvious difference is that there's a DC input on the Quicko's PCB.

But which version of the STM32 control board? Also, the odd thing is that the DC input is 4A, but KSGER claims to have a higher amperage power supply, so does that mean the power supply in the Quicko is lower current and that the STM32's max power output is lower as well?

Gandalf_Sr · « **Reply #21 on:** May 26, 2020, 12:04:12 pm »

Here's a picture of my KSGER T12 Soldering Station Control PCB. This is supposed to be vn 2.1S and you can see that I've removed R10 which was the stupid resistor that sat across the battery and discharged it in about 2 weeks.

Gandalf_Sr · « **Reply #22 on:** May 26, 2020, 12:56:00 pm »

So I'm up at our cottage for this week and have got back to looking at my design for a replacement DIY PCB for this; I've decided (at least for the first effort) that all I will do is produce a PCB that is a fit and function replacement for the 2.1S (see picture in previous post) but I will try to make improvements where possible but I'm trying to design in parts that we can actually buy from suppliers such as Digikey and Mouser. So, here's a list of questions that I'm seeking input on:
1. Is the attached FloobyDust pdf the correct schematic for 2.1S?
2. What are the connector part numbers for the 2 pin power and battery headers?
3. The only OLED I can find that looks like the one on my PCB is this one from Banggood but it appears to have GND and VCC reversed so I've included a resistor patch (my R1) that allows the pins to be reversed. Can anyone point to a different OLED or is this one OK?
4. I know the KSGER PCB has unpopulated desoldering pump components but do I need to include space for these? It's no problem doing so but I have never seen or heard of anyone using one so maybe it's a unicorn?
5. Does the processor need to be a STM32F103 or STM32F102?
6. There's an LED on the KSGER PCB but, if it does something useful, shall I move it to the front and make it through hole 3mm?

I've got a bit more work to do and then I'll post the schematic up here, probably later today or tomorrow. Input on the above or any other suggestions is welcome.

floobydust · « **Reply #23 on:** May 26, 2020, 09:32:20 pm »

If you're going to do a H/W V2.1S compatible board, start a new thread. There are a few boards+bom already out there for people to build and flash existing F/W. I will compare their schematics to mine, but I need a day or so. I have seen nothing (pics) about H/W version 3.1 differences (which goes with S/W 3.1S). But 2.1S is pretty good if the bugs are not copied.
The V2.1S schematic I drew, KSGER now only sells when you purchase an entire station. Kit or alone, the V2.1S recent they deleted the vaccum pump mosfets and buck-converter and went back to LDO, added a header for pushbuttons and SWD, the GX12-5 does not solder directly to it. It seems like a cheaper offering.

dreamcat4 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 26, 2020, 10:56:31 pm »

Yeah i agree. and also a couple more observations:

* The photo earlier in this thread taken by flurl shows the back of a controller pcb with a silkscreen on it that ssays 'OLED-V3.0S'. Well that pcb has a 64 LQFP on it an the green thru hole capacitor making it look 'rather a lot similar' to the 2nd type of a 'v2.1S' on the other thread. But not quite, when we look really more closely and scrutinize it.

2 more points.

* There should definately be included the mod required for JBC tips. This is documented in PTDreamer 's blog posts. Like with some nice and reasonable means of selecting / enabling which tip is to be used. Even better to include support for more than just only the T245 tips. There is also T210 and the big ones (T470 ?). That would be really awesome I think. Especially if there was the capability to rig a selector switch.

* Finally is there really some 4A limit? That is to say it would not be a high enough performance to compete with other known designs. This was also mentioned on the other thread as being rather unfortunate. Well i should clarify that maybe is not bad for an average sinking into a thermal load. But a higher short term burst current (more like 8-10A) would improve the heat up time. When the tip is coming up to temperature and not yet under load. Which is to say only for about 3-4 seconds. IDK if that is necessarily a practical consideration with this PCB. But hope that it is overbuilt in this respect. Should the firmware be capable to support that kind of improved operation.

Gandalf_Sr · « **Reply #25 on:** May 27, 2020, 10:42:01 am »

I will start another thread but the burning question is this, what version of software will my design use? If no single coder such as PTdreamer will commit to supporting my hardware design then I will put a different processor on the PCB (probably a 32 bit PSoC) and adapt/write the code myself.

[EDIT] I also want the firmware to be 'good'; I have only ever used the KSGER firmware (if they wrote it) and it's actually OK but the clock is useless mainly because it keeps terrible time although that's probably because of the cheap 32,768 crystal they used. Am I right in saying the KSGER firmware isn't publicly available? If not, then what's the closest or 'best' firmware to aim for?

dreamcat4 · « **Reply #26 on:** May 27, 2020, 11:41:36 am »

Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on May 27, 2020, 10:42:01 am

I will start another thread but the burning question is this, what version of software will my design use?

This is the version:

https://github.com/dreamcat4/stm32_soldering_iron_controller

I do plan to add some small fixes, and improve the readme file. To make clear simple instructions about what boards its been tested on. And how to compile etc. That is for the v2.1S hardware.

In terms of knowing who will publicly support it. That is really very much a case of this codebase being "the most well supported" of any of them right now (most broadly speaking). Of any of these projects so far. If you make your own entirely new design based on a different MCU then that will have the side affect of fragmenting things even further to have yet another new project with a smaller user base that is actually interested in it.

So unless *you* are going to support the firmware, on the new platform... then your stated goal will not result in being a better option in the respect of software support. Because you are now requiring an additional burden that they make themselves a PCB and populate it etc.

There are ways to mitigate that. For example is this other guy (on Github) who's project is designed in mind with SMD assembly on JLC PCB. So a project like that would be less hassles for somebody else to order the hardware. Or if you can get the PCB up on ebay etc. The main question people will be asking is what makes your project better than the 5-10 other alternatives out there.

So which features are you personally interested in implementing? Do those line up with what everybody else is looking for? More consideration on that aspect would help to make your project stand out from the other existing projects. And make it more likely to be the one that people choose instead.

Honestly you also need to come up with a better reason than saying that the 'best supported project of all of them' is not well enough supported software wise. And that should (I am guessing) be with hardware features which cannot be implemented as mods to these STM32 OLED boards.

Gandalf_Sr · « **Reply #27 on:** May 27, 2020, 04:28:27 pm »

Thanks,

I am not trying to be a dick, I just don't want to do a design that has no usable firmware available. It seems to me that having a PCB available that eev bloggers could build their own might get away from the $50 junk versions that seem so ubiquitous. Is the github link you gave for firmware that has similar functionality to the the KSGER version, menus, saving Cal for different tips etc?

What I was saying before was that, if there was no 'good' firmware available, and I was going to write my own, I may as well do it for a processor that I had experience with.

The idea of changes actually wasn't to try to change the circuit but put better components such as an accurate Xtal or make the existing LED visible from the front.

dreamcat4 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 27, 2020, 07:47:21 pm »

Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on May 27, 2020, 04:28:27 pm

Is the github link you gave for firmware that has similar functionality to the the KSGER version, menus, saving Cal for different tips etc?

What I was saying before was that, if there was no 'good' firmware available,

We shall see how good it is.... I have not gotten far enough to try it myself yet... because I am still working on the README file. And uploading that to github. Here it is so far:

https://github.com/dreamcat4/stm32_soldering_iron_controller

These BRAND NEW instructions (as of today). Will get you all hooked up over SWD. And into a situation where you can flash the firmware. Which is heh - the point where I managed to get up to today. And have all fully documenteded above there ^^. But no further.

However before flashing it I really want to backup the existing OFW image that comes on the device. If i can. Otherwise if I can figure out how to partially hash the onboard firmware against the numerous different official KSGER firmware images. To get a match for which KSGER firmware is compatible for this particular device.

By including those extra steps in the README. That then enables more other people with different PCB revisions to safely try out this 'v2.1s' branch of the open source PT Dreamer firmware. Since they can then know how to flash back to the OFW if it not work with their specific PCB version. Rather than left with a device with a blank screen, not usable afterwards.

I think this is worth spending the extra time on. Before I flash my own device here. Even though I don't particularly want to go back to the official KSGER firmware myself. Since it does not support JBC tips, does it? Well that's no good!

In fact that is the other main thing I have not gotten around to (yet). Before starting this up. I need to modify the PCB (as per PTDreamer's guidelines). So that the wiring on the controller PCB is correct to work with my JBC tip. Which is also absolutely needed for ensuring the cartridge is grounded properly, etc. And not be a risk to damage.

That I have not started either yet, and will not get around to until the existing OFW firmware is safely identified here (so that it can be restored).

bitwelder · « **Reply #29 on:** May 28, 2020, 11:15:39 am »

Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on May 26, 2020, 12:56:00 pm

I'm trying to design in parts that we can actually buy from suppliers such as Digikey and Mouser.

How about making it suitable for LCSC / JLCPCB, so to have a cheap option to get PCB plus SMT assembly, at least for the jelly-beans parts (or similar far-east PCB+SMT manufacturers) ?

Gandalf_Sr · « **Reply #30 on:** May 28, 2020, 01:19:12 pm »

Quote from: bitwelder on May 28, 2020, 11:15:39 am

Quote from: Gandalf_Sr on May 26, 2020, 12:56:00 pm
I'm trying to design in parts that we can actually buy from suppliers such as Digikey and Mouser.
How about making it suitable for LCSC / JLCPCB, so to have a cheap option to get PCB plus SMT assembly, at least for the jelly-beans parts (or similar far-east PCB+SMT manufacturers) ?

Well I've had most of my recent PCB designs made by JLCPCB (bare PCBs) and the 'jelly bean' parts can always be assembled by them but even that is missing my point about avoiding the issues of the design becoming a lowest cost race to the bottom. If that's the point then why not just buy what exists today?

Instead I envisioned a bare PCB designed to take quality parts like accurate crystals and reliable rotary encoders and that could be assembled by hobbyists. As for the code, I am close to just designing my own hardware and adapting/writing the code myself.

amix · « **Reply #31 on:** July 05, 2020, 09:47:48 am »

Quote from: KL27x on May 19, 2020, 02:13:12 am

Gandalf, look at the post counts. This thread is KSGER marketing BS.

If it is, then it is orchestrated very well.

EDIT: Just as I saw my message appearing, I realized, that I also only have a post count of five, lol. But that's, because I do not hang around here often, mostly only reading. You can check the registration date in my profile, I guess.

EDIT2: I also found this on Hackster (Soldering Iron Controller for Hakko T12 Tips on STM32) with this firmware: hakko_t12_stm32

totalnoob · « **Reply #32 on:** July 17, 2020, 05:27:31 pm »

Looking at the Aliexpress store at KSGER and it appears they have a disclaimer for the 3.1S units. There looks to be an issue with what the unit says the temperature of the tip is vs what people are measuring it to be. I don't see that same disclaimer with the 2.1S units. Can anyone confirm if the older 2.1S units were fairly accurate in reading tip temperature? Anyone with a 3.1S notice an issue with tip temperature vs. what the LCD is saying it is or are you getting accurate readings?

Here is the exact wording lifted from the ad on Aliexpress:

Quote

Regarding the problem that the temperature displayed on the soldering station is not accurate with the actual temperature:
Please use the soldering iron tip temperature tester (please do not use a multimeter) to test the temperature. When the soldering station is working at low temperature (less than 280 degrees), the temperature displayed on the soldering station and the actual temperature of the soldering iron tip are only for reference , which is not accurate because They are affected by the surrounding environment. The surrounding environment will carry away heat, causing the soldering iron tip to lose some heat. If using a HB tip thermometer, pls make sure the soldering iron tip is suspended at the center of the temperature sensing line. If you are very strict with temperature, please do not buy this soldering station.

benadamson · « **Reply #33 on:** July 24, 2020, 08:58:58 am »

Has anybody worked out if there are any benefits to the versions after 2.01, or is it just more money for no good reason? There seem to be bugs in the newer versions. Not sure if other undocumented bugs are present in the older ones.

totalnoob · « **Reply #34 on:** July 24, 2020, 11:31:27 am »

The newer reviews I have seen online seem to indicate the parasitic drain was fixed in the later 2.1s models. Outside of that problem, most of the reviews for the 2.1s's have been positive, I am not sure what other "bugs" there are in the 2.1s models, except for the hardware safety issues (i.e. the heat sink potentially providing a path between the household voltage side vs. the electronic voltage side, grounding issues, etc.) but they affect all models so far. I have not seen any reviews of the 3.1s yet, which is why I find it puzzling that on Aliexpress, KSGER specifically calls out that the tip temperature reading is off. Since I have found no reviews calling this out, I can only assume they have had quite a few returns over this issue and since the reviews of the 2.1s's indicate the temperature sensor readings are fairly accurate, I am thinking its an issue with the 3.1s firmware.

dreamcat4 · « **Reply #35 on:** July 24, 2020, 12:00:14 pm »

In addition compatibility for JBC tips although that potentially could be modded on an older PCB. New versions have wapped linear 3.3v regulator for a switching one. Which is going to introduse switching noise on the rails for the ADC. Which is bad for the temperaature measurement. They also cheaped out on the op amp (perhaps also the crystal). In particular the cost reduced part of the op amp is also going to mes up the temperature sensing circuit before it gets into the ADC. So there you have it.

If you want any better answers then I suggest you go ask KSGER themselves for why they keep on change such things. If they care at all for their future reputation? Perhaps not.

totalnoob · « **Reply #36 on:** July 24, 2020, 03:08:43 pm »

Thank you, Dreamcat. So to clear things up, were these changes (i.e. switching regulator and cheaper op amp) made only to the 3.1S version or did they make these changes in the 2.1S as far as the units you have seen (since it is possible they have incorporated these changes into the latest 2.1S offerings, it has been documented they made a mid-model change, and kept the same model designation, to eliminate the R10 issue in the 2.1S's)?

Thanks.

dreamcat4 · « **Reply #37 on:** July 24, 2020, 03:39:26 pm »

Unfortunately dude, the KSGER version numbering schemes are not unambiguous. So when we all talk about 'version X.y {S}' it's not completely clear which one we actually mean when we say that. Which really makes these things more difficult to talk about.

Even KSGER themselves has taken a same PCB revision and labelled it both '2.1' and '3.0' simultaneously at the same time. Which just goes to show how totally worthless this version numbering scheme actually is.

But what you can do is look at my research pages here on github. It is a work in progress. I am still halfway through gathering source materials. Mostly translating from other online sources (that is writting in Russian or Chinese). YMMV.

I think the Blue 'updated version' shown here is arguable 'the best'. Because it adds in the corner 2 pads marked for "JBC or T12". Wheras the original green one did not have explicit point for connecting the JBC. Regardless of that connecting a JBC is perhaps a more complicated matter.

https://github.com/dreamcat4/t12-t245-controllers-docs/tree/master/controllers/stm32-t12-oled#v21s-original-version-green-pcb

If you want to browse online into the many other subfolders you will the find further useful research links and information. Including other alternative board designs. And discussion pages which themselves contains a lot of really useful information and explanatory diagrams. Some of those sources have been translated but not been fully analyzed / documented. Because they are far too big. While others are currently missing because they have not been translated, put back together in a reasonably loadable / browsable version file yet.

BTW perhaps some pages view better on Firefox.

totalnoob · « **Reply #38 on:** July 24, 2020, 05:20:37 pm »

Thank you. I know that at least the numbering system KSGER used is not totally to be trusted, as I said, from what I can make out looking at the various Youtube reviews, it appears that the early "2.1S" versions had the R10 that drained the battery while later "2.1S" versions had a different control board layout that did not have that R10 or used a "R10" labeled resistor for a different purpose. What muddies things is when some reviews came out in the same timeframe but some received units with the R10 that drains the battery and others without the R10 that drains the battery, I just chalked that up to KSGER sending out a mixture of the older batch along with the newer batch. I didn't think they made as many changes during the same "model" run as you indicated. That's good to know, but adds to the confusion. I will look at what you have gathered.

Thanks again.

floobydust · « **Reply #39 on:** July 24, 2020, 07:07:46 pm »

It's just that they treat a version number as a model number.
Corrections/changes are made and a board is a bit different- but want it considered the same model.
Also people are copying the design, adding mistakes or making it cheaper, but keeping the root version number.

To make it even worse, there are three version numbers - the controller hardware, the firmware, the soldering station.

Russians are saying V3.1S is KSGER taking control of the firmware, and it's buggy, so they recommend rolling back to V2.1S firmware?

Acecool · « **Reply #40 on:** August 04, 2020, 11:21:21 pm »

I bought the 3.1 and I didn't get the new case... they used the old smaller case without the silver front... I was hoping to slide it into a rack and use that to brace it.. but oh well..

The thing says error then heats up, then error, then heat sup...

The mini GX12-5 connector has no screw so the black plastic part rotates freely.. This isn't good especially if there are wires loose. The QuickGo or whatever station has a 4 pin out, the KSGER has 5... It seems like 2 of the pins are ground pins on the KSGER...

I bought mine on banggood and it was $56 USD shipped with a cheap plastic iron which may be the issue I'm having with the unit... I have gotten no support from them in trying to resolve the issue and I've sent them the video.

The case is not grounded, but some of the metal pieces do appear to have a ground.

My unit rattled inside - so I added a few dabs of hot-glue. I still need to add grounding wire. I'm not a fan of the 3.1 variant where the 2.1 variant had plugs from the switch to the board, etc... and a plastic case... the 3.1 went back to direct soldering the spade connectors of the switch and power socket back into the board.

3.1 uses a tiny battery welded directly to the front board instead of a larger battery on a long lead. This doesn't bang around which is nice.

3.1 Grounds: The 3 pin wire grounding pin does go to the tip of the handheld iron. It also goes to 2 of the 5 pins on the GX12-5 pin connector. The threads are NOT grounded on this connector as they didn't add a grounding wire. The metal underneath the rotary encoder is also NOT grounded. The case is NOT grounded. However, in most parts - if you got the BLACK anodized case, it is hard to find a spot which you can actually get current to go through - so that is good... but there are bare metal parts where the screws go in, and scratches or breaks in the anodized material near the corners - front face / rear face, mating points because of cutting, filing, scratches or something else. So it is possible to find exposed areas you can get current to flow through and get 0.00 - 0.02 Ohm resistance through those areas.

Overall - I'd modify mine if it doesn't need to be replaced to add grounds to the inside of the case - actual wires to any exposed metal, the lids / case, etc... and I'd probably also change the GX12 connector for something someone suggested to me for the DE-DER 5000 unit... audio XLR or something connectors as they are high quality, quick release, grounding pin, easy to solder to and has shields.... This would mean that any replacement iron I got would need to be resoldered... or I'll make an adapter for testing...

I will likely also make it my stand-alone rework station by building a box around my fan controller for my hot air gun which is on my rework station now ( and I removed the permanent connection for a GX16-8 connector ) and change it to a 4 or 5 pin connector, inline controller for fan speed, and have the station control heat... Then maybe add pump support with inlet and outlet so I can plug in a desoldering gun with a small motor and also use a hot air micro-pencil too.... then get a few of them so I can use the features all at once.

Then, instead of having 3 stations on my desk, I'll have 1 capable of all 3... or 3 mini stations which are the size of 0.5 of just the desoldering one. I've seen some posts on desoldering gun motors which are absolutely tiny and work just as well... they need the inlet and outlet so that'd work for a hot air pencil with the heat coming from the pencil, and air from the outlet of the pump...

Also, since it is STM32 based, I have already worked with that chipset on another project and recoded a few things so I have the programmer... and I think there are pins available to hook up... so I'll just add the color-coded headers as I did to the USB to logitech adapter and look at the software and see about making it more in-line with what I want...

The press-in and rotate seems a bit meh for changing tips or calibration... and long-press is too long for me. quick tap to change temp is ok.

Acecool · « **Reply #41 on:** August 22, 2020, 04:32:29 pm »

Does anyone have the 3.1 hex file? The STLink V2 utility told me to disable read protection to read and I did and I clicked ok, in the options and it decided to read immediately without me telling it to read and it actually wrote and wiped the entire chip. Such an annoyance right now to have the chip wiped when I didn't tell it to wipe the chip, and when I was in the settings menu, and not in the programming utility....

STM32F103RBT6

totalnoob · « **Reply #42 on:** September 03, 2020, 04:19:35 pm »

In the interest of keeping all information about the V3.1S in the same thread, I am going to give a preliminary review since I just received it and have not actually used it beyond turning it on and plugging in the handle and a tip. However, I will comment on the handle I ordered with it. I went "whole hog" and bought the SS handle. I can't comment on whether it heats up and becomes uncomfortable when using it after a long period of time. I can only comment on the tip fit in the handle. There is no positive "click" or feedback to let me know the tip is in enough and the tip is very easily pulled out. As a matter of fact, the fit seems loose enough that I am concerned it may just fall out, although that did not happen in my very limited testing (but I did not actually use it). Not necessarily a bad thing to be able to take the tip out easily, but I was concerned it was loose and that it being loose is why I kept getting an error message as the tip was heating up in my first test and I was not sure if that was because the tip was not seated properly or if it was because it was a new tip the controller was not reading it properly (KSGER's Aliexpress store mentions something about this). All of a sudden, the error stopped flashing and the temperature reading stopped fluctuating. There was no indication that the tip was loose as I made erratic movements to see if the error came back, it did not. I will likely order one of the carbon fiber aluminum handles because they tend to get decent reviews, to see if they have a better indication that the tip is seated correctly. I cannot recommend the SS handle at this time because of not being able to determine if the tip is seated properly.

I do reserve the right to add a reply later to provide updates on what I find I like or dislike.

dreamcat4 · « **Reply #43 on:** September 03, 2020, 08:37:39 pm »

Dude,

best handle is a JBC handle. The unbranded T245 version (that comes with other JBC clone stations etc.) is completely authentic, but not so expensive. Less than $50 off aliexpress or elsewhere.

For T12 handle I would look for something.... cannot remember now where i saw it. But it was probably some Russian dudes. So if you go into my research folder, and click on those "Accessible Version" (translated) pages. And scroll thru the comments sections in each page:

https://github.com/dreamcat4/t12-t245-controllers-docs/tree/master/research/mysku

You will probably find it being reffered to (eventually, after much scrolling, many comments).

Or you could ask the Chinese guy who makes those new 'Woka' stations. He would probably know too. I have been meaning to email him on his WeChat email address at some point. Never actually got around to it. Oh well!

totalnoob · « **Reply #44 on:** September 04, 2020, 01:19:41 am »

Thanks, I'll have to look up the Woka station. In this mini-review, I was referring to the T12 handle, obviously. I'd like to get a fairly decent one, I am sure the JBC is the best handle, but I am really only interested in the ability to convert these stations for use with JBC handles, academically. And from what I have seen/read is that the clone JBC handles seem to be pretty good quality even if not completely up to JBC quality. If the clone "JBC" tips had as large of a selection of different styles and were relatively as cheap as the T12 Clone tips (even if they were a couple of bucks more per tip), then I'd probably be more interested in the conversion process as a real project, rather than something to keep in mind as a "someday" project. I'll check out your folders again, about handles, these were specifically about T12 handles, right? Were they reviews your archived?

totalnoob · « **Reply #45 on:** September 06, 2020, 02:24:09 am »

Following up on my mini review, mostly of the handle. I wanted to confirm that when I played around with it tonight, the tip I had used before worked right, right from the start. The display did not "dance" between "error" and displaying temperature, so I suspect it only happens to new tips. This is somewhat confirmed that I swapped tips hot for the second tip that came withe unit and that tip did cause the display to "dance" until it finally settled, just like the first tip. Other than the handle not having the positive feedback to let me know the tip was seated, the handle works well. Pushing the tip in until it stops seems to work. There's no disconnection while waving it or when I tested the tip temperatures, about the closest to soldering I have done with this set, yet.

A mini-review of the soldering station itself, since I had some time to look through the menus and test out the interface some. I will admit, I need to d/l the manual and read through it, the interface is NOT user friendly. In my shop, since I do a lot of woodworking projects, painting, general mechanics stuff, I prefer to have as few buttons on things as possible to press because my hands are frequently dirty with glue, oil, paint, etc. so the fewer buttons on things the better. However, I think this unit could use a couple of buttons to take some relief off the push/rotary dial. I mean pushing in and turning left or right while holding the knob in is kind of a pain. Having a "Back" button to back out to the main menu would be great rather than holding the knob pressed in for several seconds to accomplish the same thing. As pointed out in another thread, it appears under the Tips menu that the firmware supports JBC tips. If that is the case, and the tip numbers that I suspect are JBC tip numbers are in fact JBC numbers, then all those tips are just jumbled together, so you have a fairly long list to scroll through with no order, although most T12 tips seem to be grouped together, there are the suspected JBC tips between the groups of T12 tips. KSGER should have added submenu's and grouped the T12 tips in one menu and the JBC tips together in another menu. And a third menu option for keeping the user defined tips settings in. Anyway, other than those nit picks, the unit seem to work well. As mentioned earlier, I did not actually solder anything, but checking the tip temperatures on a Hakko FG100 clone, seemed to agree with the first tip's temperature reading on the KSGER (the K tip), but the second tip was off by about 30 degrees C (DL32). The active tip selected, however, was the default,B1, once I figured out how to change the active tip to DL32, the temperature reading was pretty much spot on (about 4 degrees C different). I did not re-check the K tip with the active tip set to K.

totalnoob · « **Reply #46 on:** December 04, 2020, 06:29:43 pm »

Stumbled across this video of a person who has apparently tested the various KSGER T12 handles, although he only shows two in his video. I specifically avoided the black aluminum handle because of John Salt's (another YouTuber) experience with his, but this reviewer apparently found it to be a good handle, once he fixed the assembly issues with the wiring/strain relief.

I post it here in this thread since handles were specifically discussed and for future reference in case. Although perhaps handles might deserve their own thread.

dreamcat4 · « **Reply #47 on:** December 04, 2020, 06:51:42 pm »

The carbon fibre handle, from ksger store on aliexpress. Is supposed to be the best one. It was recommended to me by somebody else. It lets you solder for longer durations, not metal, it will not conduct the heat through into your hand. Unlike the other metal ones.

.... Unfortunately the wiring seems pretty suspect on all of them. I'm sad to say.

bozza · « **Reply #48 on:** January 13, 2021, 09:27:55 pm »

In the menu there is a desoldering option.
Does that mean that it is somehow possible to attach a desoldering gun?

floobydust · « **Reply #49 on:** January 13, 2021, 10:30:01 pm »

KSGER firmware supports a desoldering gun and pump, but not all of their controller boards have the extra hardware provisions.
I don't believe the OLED-V3.0 or OLED-V3.1 (black) boards have it. The "S" suffix is for desoldering control I think.

Controller Ve2.12S has that provision, as well as a dual-OLED option. Underneath the OLED display there are pads for two SOIC-8 mosfets like SI4800, two diodes like FR107.
Controller Ve2.1S has the mosfets/diodes/connector pads on the component side of the board.
The desoldering gun trigger switch or maybe it's a foot pedal, connects to the shake switch input.
One output is for the 24VDC vacuum pump motor, and the other for a vacuum solenoid valve.

You can also make a power mosfet board and take off the pump/valve control signals from the MCU at PB6, PB7 if you run fine wires from there.

bozza · « **Reply #50 on:** January 17, 2021, 10:54:17 am »

What is the point of having desoldering options if a pump doesn't fit into the case?

Has anyone successfully been able to use jbc handles and tips?

It would be nice if you could use both hakko and jbc handles, perhaps through an adapter.
That way you wouldn't need to buy 5 million different soldering stations.

mastershake · « **Reply #51 on:** February 24, 2021, 12:14:41 am »

here is the v3.1x hex file this has a different branding "wlida" and corrected the error with the calibration of VSM2 see attached for those that need it. this can also allow you to flash back to stock from the custom ones. other then the above changes this is identical to the ksger. this works on 101, 102 and 103 v3.0 (both styles of battery on board or attached via a lead) and the v3.1 oled boards.

mastershake · « **Reply #52 on:** March 29, 2021, 11:48:45 pm »

new psu in the newest shipped ones. v2.05 now. they moved the one trace under the heatsink and a few other components but not to many other differences the one larger heatsink on the one i just got in was mangled sadly warped and twisted pretty bad ill unmount it straighten it out and re mount it, there is also no paste or material on either sink on this one. ill get some pics as soon as i can.

nanolab · « **Reply #53 on:** May 06, 2021, 05:20:12 pm »

There is a problem, before this was not. The station works well, but there is a ticking sound and a green LED is blinking on the control board.

Lemaru · « **Reply #54 on:** June 04, 2021, 08:48:37 pm »

Quote from: mastershake on March 29, 2021, 11:48:45 pm

new psu in the newest shipped ones. v2.05 now. they moved the one trace under the heatsink and a few other components but not to many other differences the one larger heatsink on the one i just got in was mangled sadly warped and twisted pretty bad ill unmount it straighten it out and re mount it, there is also no paste or material on either sink on this one. ill get some pics as soon as i can.

I haven't seen many other posts about the v2.05 PSU other than this one. I assume this means no more having to mod the heatsink to make it safe? Is there any other fixes required for this version?

Thanks

Polter · « **Reply #55 on:** June 06, 2021, 07:13:14 am »

I've received my T12 about a week or two ago. It has the new v2.05 PSU so I'll post some photos. As you can see there's no battery attached any more. Let me know if you want any new photos or clarification.

Lemaru · « **Reply #56 on:** June 07, 2021, 08:49:34 am »

I also got mine a few days ago. V2.05 PSU, but mine does have a battery fitted and stuck on top of the transformer

AlexP. · « **Reply #57 on:** December 13, 2021, 08:52:30 pm »

Same. Got the new black PCB and also a coin cell fixed on top of the transformer.

Pics two posts above show an unpopulated connector on the controller board, where the battery is supposed to plug. Maybe they forgot to fit it?

floobydust · « **Reply #58 on:** December 14, 2021, 01:42:02 am »

The top optional header is for the Serial Wire Debug (SWD) port to program MCU firmware.
A battery can be direct soldered to the pc board (if it has solder tabs) but this sticks out too much and hits the power supply, so they use the header and sticky tape the battery anywhere.

MimCom · « **Reply #59 on:** December 15, 2021, 06:33:29 pm »

I've been reading (and reading) for some weeks here. First post.

Looking at trying one of these and am somewhat confused by all the hardware revs. No mention of v2.0.5 on theKSGER store that I can see.

Quicko store makes me somewhat dizzy. Are the 'OLED Soldering Station' units not STM32/CKS-based?

Dozens of 24V 3A power supplies here, so I'd prefer to skip the line voltage challenges and go with a mini. This at least ships with a metal handle -- apparently no bundles with the carbon fiber handle yet.

Also confusing is that the Quicko store sell some items labeled as Quecoo, which are also in the Laecho store. Argh.

Update: Seller pointed me at this very useful table. 942 and 946 appear identical, with the exception of the Language field. Turns out they have different sized OLED displays (not in table). More argh.

sofakng · « **Reply #60 on:** January 21, 2022, 03:58:22 pm »

I'm also a little confused ...

What's the best KSGER T12 version to order?

I was looking at the official KSGER store on Aliexpress which has the 3.1S for $60 shipped (included PSU), but I'm reading the newer PCBs might be worse?

rytenuff · « **Reply #61 on:** January 21, 2022, 07:21:54 pm »

After reading people's thoughts on the KSGER T12 I bought the 3.1s version. (or at least the display says it is.)
I have the 2.04 main board PSU but the control board is unmarked re. naming. There is an insulated wire joining these boards at the points shown in the attached photos. Anybody got any notion of why this is? I have not read of anyone else reporting or commenting on this.

floobydust · « **Reply #62 on:** January 21, 2022, 07:42:18 pm »

That controller board you show is a FAIL. It's like an old V2.0 (hardware) controller. Because the SE8533 linear voltage regulator U5 overheats, there is no pcb copper heatsink, they did not last at all and were cutting out.
To make it run cooler, you must give it much less than 24V input which might be what the jumper tries to do but is also a fail - there is no 5V or 12V something coming out of the power supply that I know of. Prove what I'm saying, that IC should be getting around 24V in on the wire and run very hot... finger burner!

So you didn't buy that from the KSGER store, it looks like another unloading of the old fails from the sleazy marketplace. Many copies of KSGER out there.

I mentioned the V2.0 controller here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/t12-stm32-v2-1s-soldering-station-controller-schematic-etc
It was a flop and after a few revisions they fixed that vreg overheating issue, going to a buck-converter.

It can be confusing because there is a version # for the whole soldering station, the controller board hardware, the controller board firmware, and the power supply board.

sofakng · « **Reply #63 on:** January 21, 2022, 08:29:22 pm »

floobydust, I've just placed an order for the V2.1S from the KSGER store on Aliexpress.

Should that be OK? ...or should I have ordered the V3.1S board?

The V2.1S board was about $15 cheaper and seems to be more "well known" than the newer board...

floobydust · « **Reply #64 on:** January 22, 2022, 05:23:37 am »

The KSGER store gives version numbers for the entire soldering station.
What you get for version # of the controller board hardware, the controller board firmware, and the power supply board can vary. You have to go by the pictures in the ad.

sofakng · « **Reply #65 on:** January 22, 2022, 10:55:44 pm »

Quote from: floobydust on January 22, 2022, 05:23:37 am

The KSGER store gives version numbers for the entire soldering station.
What you get for version # of the controller board hardware, the controller board firmware, and the power supply board can vary. You have to go by the pictures in the ad.

Thanks ... It sounds like a crap-shoot for what you get then?

I've already ordered "v2.1s" but do you think I should have went with the "v3.1s" or does it not really matter since you don't know what components you are getting?

totalnoob · « **Reply #66 on:** January 22, 2022, 11:31:08 pm »

You're first sentence in reply to Floobydust was correct, you don't know what you're going to get. As determined well into the T12 CFW firmware thread (and as large as it is, I don't blame you for not wading through it) Flooby and I discussed this and came to the conclusion that version numbers don't mean much. There are so many changes that KSGER makes to the HW that its useless to use their version numbers to determine anything useful (when I bought mine, it seemed to me that "3.1s" meant it came with the black PCB, but I think it was Floobydust who showed me that there were some "3.1s"'s that used green PCB). Not to say that the HW is the same between them, but the only useful measure that determines one version from the other is that V2.1s does not have a Russian language option while V3.1s does, at least that was the difference that KSGER touted on their Aliexpress store when I bought mine (which was about 2 years ago, so it may have changed and now both versions have Russian menus). I opted for the 3.1s, I just could not resist getting the "latest".

If you plan to use DavidAlfa's custom firmware on yours, it may have been better to get the Quicko. If I recall, I think it was more straightforward to mod it for use with a JBC 245 soldering iron and his firmware was pretty much made for it, since that was the model he bought. But it has been successfully used by folks with KSGER's of either versions. In the interest of full disclosure, I don't use David's firmware, I use the stock OEM firmware that came with it. I find it works well and since the general consensus is that clone JBC tips are not as good as the clone T12 tips, I do not feel a need to attempt to install it because I don't do enough soldering to need to upgrade to genuine JBC tips, the T12's work well enough for what I do. I do like the idea of having a choice, though, should JBC tip clones get better.

sofakng · « **Reply #67 on:** January 23, 2022, 02:32:42 am »

Gotcha. Thanks so much for the information!

When mine arrives (in a couple of weeks) I'll open it up and try to compare the PCB to the ones in the other thread and see if any modifications need to be made.

The idea of custom firmware is neat but I'm probably fine with the basic one as long as it works as it should.

ygi · « **Reply #68 on:** January 23, 2022, 10:58:55 am »

Quote from: totalnoob on January 22, 2022, 11:31:08 pm

If you plan to use DavidAlfa's custom firmware on yours, it may have been better to get the Quicko. If I recall, I think it was more straightforward to mod it for use with a JBC 245 soldering iron and his firmware was pretty much made for it, since that was the model he bought. But it has been successfully used by folks with KSGER's of either versions. In the interest of full disclosure, I don't use David's firmware, I use the stock OEM firmware that came with it. I find it works well and since the general consensus is that clone JBC tips are not as good as the clone T12 tips, I do not feel a need to attempt to install it because I don't do enough soldering to need to upgrade to genuine JBC tips, the T12's work well enough for what I do. I do like the idea of having a choice, though, should JBC tip clones get better.

Just to clarify that part, David's firmware works equally fine with unmodified stations running T12 tips. If anything, you get more features, a better UI and a software that's actually optimized, polished and documented.

de.leon · « **Reply #69 on:** January 23, 2022, 05:13:14 pm »

Been using mine for about a month. If it has not been mentioned, the error flashing resolves itself after the tip has "burned in". Temperatures are all over the map depending on what tip you load. You really do have to go thru the whole calibration process with each tip. Once done the temps are fairly accurate and stable. For the price and given my background coming from an old school Weller pencil, this was a huge improvement. Im sure the professional units out there would be significantly more enjoyable to work with, safer and longer lasting but for a casual user this one is fine. Wish I could say the same for the rework station which is proving to be a piece of ineffective junk.

totalnoob · « **Reply #70 on:** January 23, 2022, 06:57:18 pm »

Quote from: de.leon on January 23, 2022, 05:13:14 pm

Been using mine for about a month. If it has not been mentioned, the error flashing resolves itself after the tip has "burned in". Temperatures are all over the map depending on what tip you load. You really do have to go thru the whole calibration process with each tip. Once done the temps are fairly accurate and stable. For the price and given my background coming from an old school Weller pencil, this was a huge improvement. Im sure the professional units out there would be significantly more enjoyable to work with, safer and longer lasting but for a casual user this one is fine. Wish I could say the same for the rework station which is proving to be a piece of ineffective junk.

I can only say that the tips I have for mine (I bought the unit package with 3 tips, I only have those 3 tips that originally came when I order the unit) have been right on the money with the pre-set calibration that the OEM firmware has. Even if I don't have the correct tip selected as the active tip, the difference is not that large between the temperature I measured (using an FG100 clone) vs. what's displayed on screen. Of course, like I said, I bought mine about 2 years ago and if they have upgraded their firmware or changed something in the HW (which is very likely), things may have gotten worse in that regard.

floobydust · « **Reply #71 on:** January 23, 2022, 09:35:12 pm »

Low-grade tips have poor connections inside the collars and the "burn in" is just some oxide settling in? I think at the spot welds. There can also be poor connections in the handle/collar connector. I don't think you should need to (grossly) calibrate each tip if things are working properly.
On some controller board builds, there are problems with the thermocouple amplifier. A cheap junk op-amp is used and temperature readings have pretty bad accuracy. Crappy ones are "621K" compared to better "8551".

totalnoob · « **Reply #72 on:** January 24, 2022, 01:37:03 am »

Quote from: floobydust on January 23, 2022, 09:35:12 pm

Low-grade tips have poor connections inside the collars and the "burn in" is just some oxide settling in? I think at the spot welds. There can also be poor connections in the handle/collar connector. I don't think you should need to (grossly) calibrate each tip if things are working properly.
On some controller board builds, there are problems with the thermocouple amplifier. A cheap junk op-amp is used and temperature readings have pretty bad accuracy. Crappy ones are "621K" compared to better "8551".

I had read that the "burn in" was that there was moisture still held in the tip during the manufacturing process (I would think such moisture was introduced by producing them in a high humidity environment? Or possible quenching them after some kind of welding process? I never figured out where the moisture might come from in the manufacturing process).

If you are referring to my response about calibrating the tips, I was responding to de.leon where he states he had to re-calibrate for every tip he had with the OEM firmware. Which has not been my experience, but I only have 3 tips to judge by and my unit's (and my tips are) 2 years old. Perhaps KSGER sourced their tips from a different manufacturer when I bought mine vs today's? Also, while I do agree with you about calibration for the OEM firmware, my understanding is that David's needs you to do that because it does not come with pre-calibration settings like the OEM. In defense of David's firmware, I believe it was stated that even if you use a tip for which it has not been calibrated for, as long as you calibrated one tip, it should be close to the temperature for most tips, similar to the OEM firmware. This is the primary reason I do not feel the need to upgrade to David's. I am not saying the OEM UI can't be improved, but its easy enough to use, once you get used to it, for me to put up with it to not have to have a blank slate for tips. But in no way am I, or have I ever meant to imply that I am denigrating David's firmware, it is certainly an improvement over the OEM, I just don't feel compelled, myself, to upgrade to it given that I am OK with the OEM. I am glad to have a choice should I find I do want to move away from the OEM firmware.

floobydust · « **Reply #73 on:** January 24, 2022, 02:14:24 am »

The cement isn't even dry and the tips are shipping out the door lol. The "moisture" excuse is just a bit weird.
Here are pics of the crappy heater connections, if you pop off the endcap you can check them. Some people are able to solder them to fix the "spotweld" & "crimp" - but just look at the black slag and it makes sense what ERROR flashing and beeping is really about. I didn't think solder would stick to the heater wire, I haven't tried that.

Regarding calibration, I was just meaning these should be plug and play by now. Calibration is a hassle and futile over poor hardware such as oddball TC metallurgy and crappy op-amps. Getting F/W to cover for poor H/W in these has limits. David did a lot of work on this and getting things accurate but any issues are just due to crappy quality of tip or controller board.

BlackICE · « **Reply #74 on:** January 24, 2022, 10:05:12 am »

This is a great example of why I only buy genuine Hakko tips from Hakkousa.com. They have free shipping and most of the tips are from 10 to $15.

ygi · « **Reply #75 on:** January 24, 2022, 11:16:58 am »

Quote from: floobydust on January 24, 2022, 02:14:24 am

The cement isn't even dry and the tips are shipping out the door lol. The "moisture" excuse is just a bit weird.
Here are pics of the crappy heater connections, if you pop off the endcap you can check them. Some people are able to solder them to fix the "spotweld" & "crimp" - but just look at the black slag and it makes sense what ERROR flashing and beeping is really about. I didn't think solder would stick to the heater wire, I haven't tried that.

I'm thinking maybe the excess cement smeared on the outer side of the wire flacks off due to heat expansion, improving contact with copper core afterward. I mean if connections are faulty, they aren't going to fix themselves over time.

de.leon · « **Reply #76 on:** January 25, 2022, 05:18:05 pm »

On a slightly related thread, does anyone know if any of the tweezers available on AliExpress are comparable with this base, either version 2.x or 3.x? Would come in handy from time to time.
Thanks

floobydust · « **Reply #77 on:** January 25, 2022, 07:49:18 pm »

Tweezers? Link? Start a new threAD for that

boilerbots · « **Reply #78 on:** January 27, 2022, 04:51:33 am »

I just received a KSGER T12 V3.1S that I purchased through Banggood and it was in their USA warehouse. The price was $57 with 3 tips. I purchased it after being super frustrated with my Metcal station that I was trying to work with at home, professionally I had selected Hakko for work after going round through all the various brands.

My unit has a manufactured sticker on 2021/01 on it so it has been on a shelf for a while, or maybe it was trapped in a shipping container in a port somewhere. The internal power supply is V2.04 with the black solder mask and from the previous V2.05 photos I notice it lacks the P.E. via pad.

I have to say that I am mostly impressed and have soldered a few hundred components so far over a week of time. If I was going to modify or "fix" anything my contribution would be:

External stand switch like Hakko and disable the rattle switch in the handle. The rattle switch is too sensitive and triggers all the time as I work at my bench.
Less beeping, I turned it off but if I fix the switch then perhaps it could be tollerated

BlackICE · « **Reply #79 on:** January 27, 2022, 06:38:36 am »

I think you can change the inactive / sleep timer so that the shake switch would essentially not used.

porlock · « **Reply #80 on:** March 17, 2022, 12:47:11 am »

Hey, looks like latest version also marked as v3.1S does not have battery powered RTC, battery it self is placent on PCB but after reset clock is reset as well.
No idea why but it seams that is by design as it was described on product page that this version does not support real time clock, anyone know how restore this function ?

Sniper1 · « **Reply #81 on:** October 02, 2022, 12:44:03 pm »

So i am considering geting a V3.1S station or the old V2.1S. Regardless ill follow up with some info about the boards inside.
(not sure if i should go with v2 or v3 but it will be one of them)

Dragonisko · « **Reply #82 on:** October 17, 2022, 11:12:37 pm »

Hi.
Did anyone had problems with Ksger loosing calibration settings for different tips ? couple days after calibrating tip, or after couple tips swaps it seems that my station is loosing settings, station reads 380 but im getting 450 (correct tips chosed in menu)?

DavidAlfa · « **Reply #83 on:** October 17, 2022, 11:50:09 pm »

Very new tips will change their response after a while, try recalibrating again.

Dragonisko · « **Reply #84 on:** October 18, 2022, 08:49:59 am »

i had to recalibrate same tips couple of time already, im just wondering if that's normal, or there is something wrong with mine station

DavidAlfa · « **Reply #85 on:** October 18, 2022, 09:02:46 am »

That's what you get with $3 tips. They will eventually settle down.
How many hours of use fo they have? If you bought them and used 4 times in 2 months, that's pretty normal.
I've found that on long unused periods they seem to take moisture, afterwards they'll work funny for a few minutes.

Dragonisko · « **Reply #86 on:** October 18, 2022, 09:59:01 am »

most common tips im using got probably around 20-30h usage each, soldering station is used daily for minimum couple h.

DavidAlfa · « **Reply #87 on:** October 18, 2022, 10:06:45 am »

What KSGER version?
No idea if it could be the ksger firmware, never used it, perhabs someone could answer better after knowing the specific model.
I have a Quicko myself, and I ran away from the crappy original firmware as fast as I could

Dragonisko · « **Reply #88 on:** October 18, 2022, 10:41:46 am »

ksger 3.1 but not on stm32, i was thinking about changing chip to stm and using custom firmware from github.

Sniper1 · « **Reply #89 on:** October 26, 2022, 03:03:17 pm »

Ok,
so my station was made in 09.22 and uses 2.05 version of the PSU and the green control circuit with the soldered vertical li cell

eevnoob · « **Reply #90 on:** November 06, 2022, 01:08:59 am »

hi, has anyone taken a look at this new variant of the KGSER T12, with "STC Controller V2.3"? it's marketed as having a grounded chassis and a (new?) display. would there be any disadvantage to using a non-stm32 controller?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804499899529.html

ygi · « **Reply #91 on:** November 06, 2022, 04:39:20 pm »

If you're just going to use it as it is, µcontroller doesn't matter as it doesn't take much performance to drive a soldering station. It's when you want to use a custom firmware that you need to mind it for compatibility.
Basically, it makes more sens for Chinese manufacturers to spend money in a bigger screen than in a reputable ST branded chip.

DavidAlfa · « **Reply #92 on:** November 06, 2022, 07:02:58 pm »

Why is the earything so critical? Takes two minutes to earth any other station.

Low Fat Ergos · « **Reply #93 on:** February 12, 2023, 09:15:51 am »

Is there anything special about the handles for these T12 irons? E.g. this handle is apparently for the V2.1S only, whereas something like this is listed to work with V3.1S and V2.1S

Can you mix/match parts with DavidAlfa's FW? E.g. get a Quicko STM32 T12-958 put DavidAlfa's FW on it and use this handle? Would you be able to mix parts with stock firmware?

mastershake · « **Reply #94 on:** February 12, 2023, 12:44:14 pm »

if the handle works for 2.1s then it will work for 3.1 also and the other way around

AWAIS91119 · « **Reply #95 on:** March 25, 2023, 11:17:38 am »

Quote from: Low Fat Ergos on February 12, 2023, 09:15:51 am

Is there anything special about the handles for these T12 irons? E.g. this handle is apparently for the V2.1S only, whereas something like this is listed to work with V3.1S and V2.1S

Can you mix/match parts with DavidAlfa's FW? E.g. get a Quicko STM32 T12-958 put DavidAlfa's FW on it and use this handle? Would you be able to mix parts with stock firmware?

Yes you can attach any KSGER handle with any KSGER Station that has same number of pins in GX connector.
KSGER Stations and Handles use 5 pin GX connector.
Quicko/Queeko use 4 Pin Connector in their Stations.
You can aslo use them on KSGER after changing Connector and with slight Mods.


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