Oli.Hall: if you are willing, I would be interested to know how you proceeded with disassembly so I can be more confident in taking mine apart without causing damage. Please and thank you.
Hi
Neverendingstudent No problem, I’d be happy to help.
I am fairly certain that the sensor in this camera is a genuine Sony IMX678, or at minimum it is a clone which is visually indistinguishable from the original. In the photos I have taken of the sensor, the package, including the microscopic wire-bonding on the carrier, is visually identical to the images of a genuine Sony IMX678 sensor I have found on more than one other vendor site, including FRAMOS which is a reputable source of genuine Sony imaging sensor dev boards.
The guy in the “don’t buy this camera” video asked in his Youtube comments for viewers to get in touch with him if they could prove the camera did not have the faults which he observed. I dropped him a message and we had a video call where I demonstrated to him my camera connecting to my monitor at 3480x2160@60Hz, and I also showed him that using it with the appropriate photo-tube reduction lens (x0.6 in my case), it has no black circle on the picture without any digital zoom; Since these were his main gripes in his video.
Taking the camera apart requires removing the clear plastic top panel which is stuck down with ‘3M VHB’ style double-sided tape. Heating the top panel gently with a hair-dryer for several minutes to soften the adhesive, and prying at the edge of the plastic disc with two Stanley knife blades was how I disassembled mine. The adhesive is very strong, and two blades are needed to work around the circumference of the panel. Use one knife to stop the gap closing up, and use the other knife to work around the panel. Since this panel is clear plastic, it is very easy to mark or to crack. Working carefully, I was able to remove mine with no cracks and minimal visible marks. I also slid a piece of paper down between the top panel and the aluminium case, to protect the aluminium finish from being marked by the blades. I found the glue is weakest in the 5-o'clock, and 7-o’clock positions because this is where there is least tape at the corner of the button assembly. Once the top is off, disassembly from there is fairly straight forward. Although it is a good idea to mark the orientation of the sensor in relation to the case, since it is possible to reassemble it 180 degrees out of alignment and end up with an upside down image. Don’t ask me how I know this!

Thanks,
Oli.