Pace TT-65 cleaning

[Rax]

Hi all,
I have a TT-65 I got used and now I'm trying to use it for the first time with some brand new tips. On one leg, though, the tip doesn't insert very smoothly, and it's even harder to extract.

I am aware the inserting and removing is supposed to happen with the tip hot. I did get the specific brushes for the unit and I'm not sure using it helped yet.

I'm wondering though what others have done in similar situations. I could grab a round file and exert it a bit inside, but maybe that's not recommended.

[bdunham7]

Hi all,
I have a TT-65 I got used and now I'm trying to use it for the first time with some brand new tips. On one leg, though, the tip doesn't insert very smoothly, and it's even harder to extract.

I am aware the inserting and removing is supposed to happen with the tip hot. I did get the specific brushes for the unit and I'm not sure using it helped yet.

I'm wondering though what others have done in similar situations. I could grab a round file and exert it a bit inside, but maybe that's not recommended.

Are you doing it hot?  If the heating element is hot it will expand slightly, perhaps that's why they recommend it.  I wouldn't file them, but perhaps more brushing or some fine sandpaper rolled up might burnish the insides of the heater a bit.

[Rax]

It's been suggested I use high-temp anti-seize compound (such as copper-based).

I may call Pace on Monday to ask for advice, but I wonder if there is anything I should know before using anti-seize compound on this?

[GLouie]

I have a TT-65 and just checking, my tips go in-out easily when cold. I seldom use it and only have one set of tips, so they usually stay in.

I assume the set screws are well backed out and both tips work the same in the problematic bore. Perhaps you have some damage to the bore such as a burr to the setscrew thread or even a slightly out of spec set of tips? My tip inserts measure 0.182 inches dia.

I have never had to clean out a Pace tip bore; desoldering path, yes. I'd be interested in what Pace says.

[Wallace Gasiewicz]

Some soldering manufacturers did recommend anti seize lubes in the past. I think Ungar recommended this. This was also recommended to me by a fellow who sells production soldering systems, There are two types of anti seize lube that I am aware of,  One is Copper based and One is Aluminum based,  I use the Aluminum based one and it has helped a lot with both soldering tips and solder sucker tips.  And also with the accumulation of crap in the solder sucker .  But I am using Old Equipment,  Pace and Edsyn stuff.   

The "Lube" is a suspension of metal particles in the liquid or paste "Vehicle" the petroleum Vehicle burns off when the tip is heated. Makes a lot of smoke.  The metal particles leave a smooth surface like a plating on the parts. Maybe more like a powder coat.   You just coat the part with this stuff and move it around in the iron before heating.

You can buy it at auto parts store.  You can also buy exhaust manifold gasket material that you can use to make those heat insulation parts that break and cost a bundle.
Edit: I used the Al product because it is close to the color of the soldering iron and also I think lead would stick to copper more so than stick to Al. But with more Al based solders I don't know which one would be best.