There is camera shake on some of these - not a lot I can do about it - I made several attempts.
I was planning to try to repair this malfunctioning multimeter, but it fell apart in some more ways as I was attempting to - but I did take photos of the teardown. First, a description of the meter. It is a 4000-count manual ranging meter, capable of current up to 20A - though what its maximum continuous current is, I never knew - with capacitance and inductance (using a front panel socket), as well as h
FE (!), logic and frequency, as well as all the usual stuff. Non-latched continuity - that could sound rough, but it worked. It had MAX hold - a little better than simple hold which is what my new Amprobe has but not as good as touch hold. The yellow holster you can see was an optional extra - but one I always had.
Over the years, the foam strip on the battery cover fell off. No great problem. I also have to say the tilting bail on this meter never let me down in any way. The cover is held on by two captive machine screws - yes, this meter has metal threaded inserts.
The battery compartment also gives access to the two HRC fuses - a 500mA and a 20A. There is also a space by the battery for a spare 500mA fuse. Some components can also be seen, including one socketed IC - did they expect such trouble with that as to need to put it socketed in the battery compartment?
The rest of the case was basically clipped together - easy to open. The components are mostly through-hole, but with some surface mount components.
One long wire link seems a bit crazy, but not bad on the whole.
There are no MOVs in this meter, but there is a PTC.
A close-up of the socketed chip - not one I recognise.
The components near the top of the board include a 4000-series.
The back of the case has foil shielding and the buzzer.
On the front of the board, typical arrangements for range switching - lots of it due to manual ranging. Note the split, somewhat shrouded inputs.
The range switch has 9 contacts, and there are two buttons - one for the MAX hold soft switch and one for the mechanical AC/DC switch. The knob is not held in with the board out and depending on ball bearings to make it work well.
So, there's my first teardown.