Hi. Just signed up and first post. I am in the Wollongong area of NSW. Any Aussies on this forum from the gong?
I am in the process of setting up a bench for tinkering, experiments for my young boys (teaching them a little electronics) and small time repairs.
Its been a little while since I had a bench setup and I am slowly building up my tools again.
Just purchased a new Siglent SPD3303X-E power supply. Also purchased a new EEVBlog 121GW meter. The info and reviews here have been invaluable in helping me make informed choices.
I am currently looking at replacing my old 60W Hakko 936 station. It needs a new tip and I thought to replace it altogether and get the latest and greatest without going too crazy.
I know there has been a fair bit written about different irons that are currently on the market so my apologies for repeating.
However my purchase will come from Mektronics which sell the following brands:
Hakko, Weller, Metcal, Pace, JBC
I am currently looking at the Pace ADS200 (with setback toolstand) for $544 and the JBC-CD-2BQE for $581. They both do not come with tips.
The PACE is half the price of the JBC tips however the JBC has more range. Have not figured out from the forum if the JBC have a shorter life span?
I believe the PACE will come with the new firmware.
I am prob leaning more towards the PACE for the price but not completely sold.
What are your thoughts? What would you go with for all round versatility for small home hobbyist?
Also what tips would you recommend. Chisel size, conical? Any idea when the PACE tweezers will be released?
Lastly. I want to do a bundle deal with Mektronics and will need some lead free and lead solder and flux. What do you guys think:
https://www.mektronics.com.au/solder-wire-fluxes-wick
I realise it's been a month since you posted your request for soldering iron advice but, in view of the surprising lack of any reference to the KSGER T12 Soldering station, I thought I'd post my own thoughts to make up for this unconscionable oversight.
After viewing several youtube videos on these KSGER soldering stations (they come in many flavours, including build it yourself kits, often priced higher than a ready built unit
), I finally decided on putting an order into Banggood the evening before going off on a ten day cruise holiday with the XYL to maximise the benefit of our holiday (the XYL is the big fan of these cruise holidays - me, not so much).
To my great surprise, the package had managed to arrive just a couple of days before we returned so it was simply a question of plugging in my trusty 25W Antex and putting my philips screwdriver to work - I'd learned a thing or two from all those videos (and I'm also now a fully qualified and accredited FY6600 modder
).
In short, my advice would be to watch the first half dozen of those videos which run for 15 or more minutes, concentrating on the ready made Oled display based units built into the aluminium case, running SW ver 2.10 firmware with 2.1S hardware.
I chose this particular option specifically for the T12-9501 handle and the T12-K "starter" tip - most other options exclude any such tip :-
https://www.banggood.com/KSGER-V2_1S-T12-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Soldering-Station-Soldering-Iron-Tips-T12-K-p-1338117.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN Since the shake sensor in the handles saves the need for a special iron holder electrically connected to the controller to trigger the standby and sleep functions, you can use whatever holder you like (or even no holder at all). However, since I thought the ex-GPO clamp on iron holder I'd been using with all of of my Antex Irons, ranging from 15 to 25 watt mains voltage irons and the original 35W 50v iron it had been designed for, was a little cumbersome for the job, I'd added this little beauty to the order:-
https://www.banggood.com/Soldering-Iron-Stand-Welding-Holder-for-FX951-T12-Soldering-Station-Handle-p-1156336.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto Into which the T12-9501 iron handle fits perfectly (it's almost as if it had been made for a T12-9501
).
I'd also purchased the DANIU Heavy Duty wire wool tip cleaner which also nicely fits into that soldering iron stand :-
https://www.banggood.com/DANIU-1-Pcs-Heavy-Duty-Soldering-Solder-Iron-Tip-Cleaner-Steel-Wire-With-Stand-Set-NEW-p-1182609.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&cur_warehouse=CN I highly recommend the above "extras" if you don't already have anything suitable. I'd also recommend buying set of T12 or T15 tips and, if you don't already possess one, a soldering iron thermocouple thermometer to calibrate the tips. I bought a pack of ten T12 tips and the DANIU FG-100 turning what was originally a £39.05 order into a 76 quid order.
Whilst the pack of ten tips offers a useful selection, it's not the best selection but for the money, it was a "Quick ,n, dirty" way to remove total dependence on the single K tip supplied (which I now think has an intermittent fault - the K tip in the selection pack seems fine... so far).
If the Hakko 70W 'Direct drive with thermocouple sensored tip system' meets your requirements but you don't want to pay Hakko prices for a bulky station with a badly laid out user interface, these KSGER T12 soldering iron stations are a superb alternative at just the fraction the cost of an original Hakko setup. However, avoid all those mini stations using a 3 digit 7 segment LED display and the ridiculously tiny Oled versions designed to be powered off of a 24V 5A power brick or battery pack unless space on the bench is extremely tight and you happen to have to hand (or can buy ridiculously cheaply) a suitable power brick or battery pack.
Just be prepared to warm up your existing soldering iron before unpacking the kit - the videos gave a pretty good idea of what to expect. BTW, if you get a unit that's been preset to Chinese, it's option 15 in the main menu (long press - 2 or 3 seconds - on the rotary encoder). That pointless and troublesome R10 on the controller board had already been left off in my unit which explained the full 3.18v reading from the plug in CR2032 coin cell which had been stuck to the side of the diode heatsink rather to the top of the transformer where it had caused the lid to bend the smpsu board down in some of the earlier examples that had been reviewed.
Mine also had the smpsu board where the diode heatsink makes a mockery of the slots and holes in the PCB designed to separate the mains from the low voltage DC side of the board. Apart from reworking the solder joints in the handle and plug and reflowing two or three suspect joints on the smpsu board, I wasn't happy with the control unit's electrical safety until I unsoldered the diode heatsink (using a 180W Parkside copy of my now long deceased 120W Weller soldering gun) to file away material off the last three fins at the mains voltage/ 350vdc end to improve separation to a less hazardless state.
Even then, I wasn't entirely happy until I wired the metal case, via the 5 pin DIN socket's shell by soldering an earthing wire wire onto to it from the PE pin on the C14 socket - much scraping away of anodising around the socket hole and ditto the front and rear panel screw holes. Now, at least, if mains voltage or 350vdc contact to the diode heatsink fault occurs, one or both safety fuses should blow rather than leave the case silently live with an electrocution hazard.
For anyone with experience of Chinese made cheaply priced mains powered kit, this is all SOP and the price paid for such low monetary pricing. For anyone with
any soldering experience at all, such remedial work is on the whole, a quite trivial task to render that bargain buy completely safe for use. Quite frankly imo, anyone who neglects to check the electrical safety of such Chinese bargains almost deserves to pay the ultimate price for their "Bargain Buy".
As for my thoughts on this iron's actual use, soldering is far less fraught now I don't have to consider whether I should switch my Antex off between each bunch of solder joints I'd be working through on a given assembly and soldering up project where I'm not sure whether that ten minutes prep work for the next bunch will be 5 to 15 minutes or whether it will be more like 2 to 3 hours, possibly interrupted by "Real Life" events imposed by the XYL or 'natural breaks' and so on.
I've currently configured it to 'idle' at 120 deg C when it goes into standby after 3 minutes of inactivity from which it can recover to 330 deg C within 7 or 8 seconds of 'shaking it' when removing it from the stand (or off the workbench). Of course, it takes a little longer (10 to 13 seconds) when recovering from room temperature after allowing it to go to sleep (15 minutes setting) for more than a few minutes.
Considering just how long my much abused Antex soldering bits have survived being left on in the iron holder for more than 90% of my 'soldering time', including times when I've forgotten the simple precaution of turning it off when popping out of the workshop for a "quick five minute" excursion that's turned into a half day's absence, I'll be very surprised if the Chinese have managed to make their 'fake' Hakko T12 tips so cheap as to actually burn out inside of a year's hobby level use. No more such absent minded abuse, whoopee!
Just one final word to the wise. When changing to a new tip for the first time, you can expect the controller to keep issuing errors whilst it adapts before the new tip settles down (or 'burns in') so don't go straight to the 'top of the shop' with 450 and 480 degree settings when changing to a previously unused tip.
Choose 300 deg to start with and let it settle itself down, usually just a minute or two before it stops bleating and flashing "Error" in the display, then go up in 50 deg steps a minute or so at a time if you need more than a 300 to 350 deg C setting. Once you've cycled the new tip between standby and working temps a few times, it'll be worth going through the calibration process to fine tune the control algorithm for that tip. However, such calibration isn't vital, especially if you rarely change tips, since you tend to go by the feel of which setting seems right for the job you're doing and knowing the actual temperature value will be immaterial in this case.
This extra complication is the only downside compared to more traditional soldering irons absent any form of temperature control (or cursed only by a crude form of control) but, in view of the advantages of greater soldering bit/tip life and all the fine tuning options on offer, it's a downside I'm more than happy to accept (it's only an issue when commissioning a new previously unused tip anyway).
JBG