Soldering station, simple and resistant

[marck120]

Hello, unfortunately I have a limited budget, I am looking for a soldering iron or a solid and robust soldering station that will last me for years, better if it has the simplest possible electronic components, I was aiming for analog models with the traditional linear transformer, the fewer complex electronic components they have inside and the more the risk of failure is reduced, of course the transformer must also be of quality otherwise it will break anyway.

At first I was oriented towards the hakko fx-888d, but it costs € 120, I wanted to spend less, even the Weller WE1010NA costs about € 130 on amazon, I created a small list but they are all Chinese brands, so as an alternative I was thinking of buying a quality soldering iron, is it a problem if they do not have temperature control ?

Obviously it is important that the tips cost little and are easily available.

The use is purely hobbyist, I have to solder some electrical components every now and then, capacitors, resistors etc.. and some electrical cables if it happens, not too thick obviously, for example these days I made a thermometer with an Arduino nano and I need to solder the pins of a SHT45 sensor.

Which model do you recommend ?

Soldering irons :

CXG E60WT E90WT
CXG 936d
MULTICOMP PRO MP740061
RS PRO 202-4536
Atten ST-2065D
Atten SA50
TQ-95-CE
Antex ER30
Ersa 30s 30w
JBC 30ST


---------------------------------------------

Soldering stations :

TENMA 21-10115 EU
RS PRO 202-4512
Tilswall
ELE-ATS1
ZD-931
ZD-929B
Lafayette SDD-9
Lafayette turtle
Fixpoint 51098
LS-450 digi
Aoyue 937+
Aoyue 3210
Aoyue 9378
YIHUA 926
YIHUA 937D
YIHUA 939D+
YIHUA 982
Yihua 948DB
STATION LF-389D
AIFEN-A3
Quicko T12-942
KSGER T12 STM32 V3.1S
ATTEN AT-989
ATTEN AT938D
ATTEN AT937A
ATTEN ST60
ATTEN ST80
SUGON T21   
SUGON-A9

[marck120]

Hi, I wrote a little summary just to have a point of reference, maybe the main choices are three, I choose a soldering station compatible with T12 tips or a station with 900M tips which are quite widespread, or I also evaluated the soldering stations compatible with C245/T245 tips.

From what I know the T12 tips were developed by Hakko also called T15 as well as the 900M then replaced by the T18 always by Hakko, and the C245 instead were developed by JBC, since the Chinese have copied this technology consequently almost all the low-cost stations that use this kind of tips are in fact of Chinese production

The T15s are not interchangeable with the T12s, they are shorter and have steps that prevent them from being mounted in a T12 handle.



Obviously the T12 and C245/T245 cartridge tips have superior performance and quality compared to the old 900M, the only problem is that most of the Chinese clones have a low construction quality.

The soldering stations that I found at an affordable price compatible with T12 tips are:

Axun T3A, Quicko/Quecoo, KSGER, Yihua 948DB, AIFEN A8, Bakon BK969D, GEEBOON TC20A, Bakon BK950D

The Yihua 948DB is also available on Amazon, as for construction quality is it superior compared to Aixun, Quicko, KSGER ?

Regarding Quicko or KSGER there is the advantage that the mini versions are available with the 24v power supply separately, so I could buy a quality 24v power supply separately, in case of problems it would be very simple to replace the power supply, what do you think ?


https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32857152188.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.1b744ff9Faj5JY&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%2040%2C41%21%E2%82%AC%2028 %2C29%21%21%2143.86%2130.71%21%40210385a817256920521122226e80c7%2165279967789%21sh %21IT%210%21X&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32843974498.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%2026%2C49%21%E2%82%AC%2026%2C49%21%21%2128.75 %2128.75%21%402103892f17257629964232661eef0a%2165143158715%21sh%21IT%210%21X&spm=a2g0o. store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007586013081.32843974498&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32839523934.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.11.7ebaVnxYVnxYuF&algo_pvid=4e4a7 e8e-ba54-4875-8afc-2aded311e1b0&algo_exp_id=4e4a7 e8e-ba54-4875-8afc-2aded311e1b0-5&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2139.43%2131.14%21%21%2142.79%2133.79%21%40211b8c6217257631844993506e4a6c% 2110000002010599225%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=mTC1T8obfhTW&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Stations soldering irons C245/T245 :

YIHUA 982, AIFEN-A3, Aifen A9, SUGON-A9, SUGON T21, AiXun T320GVM T245, GEEBOON TC20A, 982-I, Aixun T3A, KSGER C245

The Aixun T420D has a linear transformer but it is too expensive.

The stations compatible with 900M tips with the linear power supply in my opinion are more resistant:

Atten AT938D, YIHUA 937D, YIHUA 939D+, YIHUA 939D+ III, ATTEN ST80

Instead the various Ningbo Zhongdi and Lafayette do not have the 900M tips but the technology is always that of the ceramic heating element that enters inside the tip, the tips and handles are easily available and have the linear transformer:

ZD-931, Lafayette SDD-9

Cartridge soldering stations with the linear power supply:

ATETOOL AE970, Quick ts1100, Quick ts1200, mechanic c211, Aixun T420D, WEMON T31, GVM H3, Best BST-933B, Jabe UD-1200 AiXun T413, WEP 982D

One of the few soldering stations with the linear transformer and cartridge tips that I have found is the ATETOOL AE970D, but it uses a T80 tip, it is a bit difficult to find.

The Quick ts1100 also uses cartridge tips, it should have the linear power supply inside but I am not sure, it is present instead on the Quick ts1200

Here's a complete summary:

Soldering Irons

    CXG E60WT E90WT
    Tips: 900M
   
    CXG 936d
    Tips: 900M

    CXG 900M soldering tip compatible with E60S/90S/110S/E60WT/E90WT
   -------------------------------------------------
    MULTICOMP PRO MP740061
    Tips: MULTICOMP PRO
    Tip: T900
    Manufacturer: ATTEN ST-2065D
   --------------------------------------------------
    RS PRO 202-4536
    Tip: RS PRO
    Manufacturer: ATTEN ST-2065D
    Tips: T900
   -----------------------------------------------------
    MINIWARE TS101
    Pinecil V2
    Tips: TS100 - Pine64
   -----------------------------------------------------
    Atten ST-2065D
    Atten SA50
    Tips: 900M
    ---------------------------------------------------
    TQ-95-CE
    Tips: GOOT TQ-77 RT series
    --------------------------------------------------
    Antex ER30
    Tips: ER30 series
    ---------------------------------------------------
    Ersa 30s 30w
    Tips: Ersa 832, 842, 852 series
   ---------------------------------------------------
    JBC 30ST
    Tips: JBC 30ST/40ST/SL2020/IN2100 series
    ---------------------------------------------------

Soldering Stations


Soldering Stations with Linear Transformer:

    TENMA 21-10115 EU
    RS PRO 202-4512
    Manufacturer: Atten AT938D
    Compatible Tips: 900M, RS PRO, TENMA
    ------------------------------------------------------
    ZD-931, ZD-929B, ZD-929B, Fixpoint 51098, Lafayette SDD-9, Fixpoint 51098, LS-450 digi, Transmedia ZLS2L, DURATOOL
    D00678, DURATOOL D00661
    Manufacturer: Ningbo Zhongdi-Lafayette
    Tips: ZD series (ZD-931, ZD-937, LS-450, LS-1000, SSD9, WS937, ZD929A, ZD929B, ZD929C, SSL-2, SSD-3)
    ------------------------------------------------------
    ELE-ATS1
    Manufacturer: ATETOOL AE970D
    Tips: T80
    Handle: AH809
   -----------------------------------------------------
    Aoyue 937+
    Handle: 907ESD

    Aoyue 9378
    Handle: B033-P
   
    Tips: 900M
   -----------------------------------------------------
    Yihua 936
    Handle: 907A

    YIHUA 937D
    Handle: 907A

    YIHUA 939D+
    Handle: YIHUA 907E

    YIHUA 939D+ III
    Handle: 816D
   
    Tips: 900M
   -----------------------------------------------------
    ATTEN AT80D
    Tips: 900M-T-I
    Handle: AP-80

    ATTEN AT938D
    Tips: 900M-T-B
    Handle: ATTEN AP-60

    ATTEN AT937A
    Tips: 900M-T-B
    Handle: ATTEN AP-50

    ATTEN ST80
    Tips: 900M
    Handle: ATTEN ST-80

    ATTEN AT-989D
    Tips: T900-B
    Handle: ATTEN AP-65A
   
    Tips: 900M/T900
    -----------------------------------------------------
    Atten ST-965
    Tips: T900
    Handle: ATTEN ST-965
    -----------------------------------------------------
    MULTICOMP PRO MP740261
    Manufacturer: Atten ST80
    Tips: MULTICOMP PRO
    Tips: 900M
    ------------------------------------------------------
    Tilswall
    Proprietary tip type
    -----------------------------------------------------
    Mechanic C211
    Handle: T210
    Tips: C211, C115
    -----------------------------------------------------
    Quick TS1100
    Handle: TSS30A
    Tips: 960 series, Quick 960
    -----------------------------------------------------
    AIXUN T420D
    Tips: C210, C115, C245
    Handle: T210, T115, T245
    -----------------------------------------------------
    WEMON T31
    Tips: C115 C210 C245
    Handle: WEMON T245, WEMON T210, WEMOM T115
    -------------------------------------------------------------
    GVM H3
    Tips: C210/C245/C115
    Handle: 210/T245/T115
    ------------------------------------------------------------
    Best BST-933B
    Tips: C245
    Handle: 2245-A BST
    ------------------------
    Jabe UD-1200
    Tips: C245
    Handle: 2245-A UD
    ------------------------
    WEP 982D
    Tips C245/C210
    Handle: WEP 616A, WEP 716A
    -------------------------------------
    AiXun T413
    Tips: C245/C225
    Handle: T245/T225

Soldering Stations with Switching Power Supply:


    Aoyue 3210
    Handle: 907A
    Tips: 900M
    ----------------------------------------------------
    YIHUA 926
    Tips: 900-B-900M
    Non-removable handle
    ----------------------------------------------------
    YIHUA 939D+ III
    Handle: YIHUA 816D
    Tips: 900M
    ----------------------------------------------------
    Xytronic LF-389D
    Proprietary tip type
    ----------------------------------------------------
    AIFEN-A3
    Handles: T210/T245/T115
    Tips: C210/C245/C115
    ----------------------------------------------------
    Aixun T3A
    Tips: T12, 936, and T245
    Handles: T245/T12
    ----------------------------------------------------
    AiXun T320
    Tips: C210/C245
    Handles: T210 T245
    ----------------------------------------------------
    Quicko T12-942
    Tips: T12
    Handles: T12-907-T12-9501
    -----------------------------------------------------
    KSGER T12 STM32 V3.1S
    Tips: T12
    Handles: FX9501-T12 907
    -----------------------------------------------------
    KSGER C245
    Tips: C245
    Handle: T245
    ------------------------------------------------------
    Yihua 948DB
    Preciva 948DB+
    Tips: T12
    Handle: YIHUA 506A
    -----------------------------------------------------
    SUGON T21
    Tips: C210/C245/C470/C115
    Handle: T245
    -----------------------------------------------------
    AIFEN A8
    Handle/Tips: T12
    -----------------------------------------------------
    SUGON-A9
    Tips: C210/C245/C115
    Handles: T115/T210/T245
    -----------------------------------------------------
    Aifen A9
    Tips: C210/C245/C115
    Handles: T245/T210/T115
    -----------------------------------------------------
    YIHUA 982
    Tips: C210 and C245
    Handles: 616A/716A
    -----------------------------------------------------
    JCD T210
    Tips: C210
    Handle: T210
    --------------------------------------------------
    Bakon BK969D
    Tips: T12
    Handle: Bakon LF008
    --------------------------------------------------
    GVM T245
    Tips: C245
    Handle: T245
    -------------------------------------------------
    GEEBOON TC20A
    Tips C245/C210/C115/T12
    Handle: 115/210/245/T12
    -----------------------------------------------
    982-I
    Tips: С210/С245
    Handle: 706A/606A
    -----------------------------------------------
    Bakon BK950D
    Tips: T12/T13
    Handle: LF007

Which model do you think I should purchase ?

[tatel]

TL;DR

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/stm32-oled-digital-soldering-station-for-t12-handle/

[BlackICE]

Hi, I wrote a little summary just to have a point of reference, maybe the main choices are three, I choose a soldering station compatible with T12 tips or a station with 900M tips which are quite widespread, or I also evaluated the soldering stations compatible with C245/T245 tips.

From what I know the T12 tips were developed by Hakko also called T15 as well as the 900M then replaced by the T18 always by Hakko, and the C245 instead were developed by JBC, since the Chinese have copied this technology consequently almost all the low-cost stations that use this kind of tips are in fact of Chinese production

The T15s are not interchangeable with the T12s, they are shorter and have steps that prevent them from being mounted in a T12 handle.

The T15 looks like a T12 to me.

check out the photos on this link.

https://hakkousa.com/t15-cf2-bevel-tip.html

[marck120]

@tatel
Hi, what does TL;DR mean ? Yes, I saw the thread you pointed me to, so do you recommend a T12 soldering station like KSGER or Quicko ?

@BlackICE
Hi, now in the photo I don't know if they made a mistake in indicating the tips, maybe the T15 indicated in the photo is a T12, in any case the T15 and T12 tips should be different.  Which soldering station do you recommend ?

[IanB]

Hello, unfortunately I have a limited budget, I am looking for a soldering iron or a solid and robust soldering station that will last me for years, better if it has the simplest possible electronic components, I was aiming for analog models with the traditional linear transformer, the fewer complex electronic components they have inside and the more the risk of failure is reduced, of course the transformer must also be of quality otherwise it will break anyway.

At first I was oriented towards the hakko fx-888d, but it costs € 120, I wanted to spend less, even the Weller WE1010NA costs about € 130 on amazon, I created a small list but they are all Chinese brands, so as an alternative I was thinking of buying a quality soldering iron, is it a problem if they do not have temperature control ?

Obviously it is important that the tips cost little and are easily available.

The use is purely hobbyist, I have to solder some electrical components every now and then, capacitors, resistors etc.. and some electrical cables if it happens, not too thick obviously, for example these days I made a thermometer with an Arduino nano and I need to solder the pins of a SHT45 sensor.

I would add this one to a shortlist, especially if you already use Ryobi 18 V tools and have the batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/RYOBI-Cordless-120-Watt-Soldering-Topper/dp/B0BQ1DCG1Q

It is very similar to the FX-888, and takes the same Hakko tips. It has temperature control with an analog dial (which I like). I find myself preferring it over other stations because there is no mains cord to get in the way or tether it to an outlet. Also, you can't beat the price.

The only downside is the cord on the solder pencil is not silicone, so it is a bit less flexible than others, but I don't find it much of a problem.

[themadhippy]

for your usage do you really need a station?Antex xs 25w or cs18w would do everything you need,plenty of tip choices,and it should last you for years,my antex iron is over 40 and apart from tips and 1 element(due to my stupidity) its still going strong and all the spares are still available.

[IanB]

I have an Antex 25 W iron, but I don't like it because of the lack of temperature control. The tip gets too hot and burns the flux.

[tatel]

@tatel
I saw the thread you pointed me to, so do you recommend a T12 soldering station like KSGER or Quicko ?

Yep, I got a quicko and happy with it. Unfortunately they change models like mad. Most of them have now mcus unable to use that custom firmware, but I think there are a couple of quicko models that still have STM32, which is what you would want. One of them better than the other. There's also some KSGER.

Aixuns turned out to be not so good? I would get Quicko or KSGER with STM32 microcontroller any day of the week, specially if on a tight budget.

That custom firmware really makes it better. I would get a full station with a PSU inside. IIRC, some of these compact-DC only, have some problem with earthing? Your best way is to ask in that thread. They will have more up-to-date information than me.

Here's a link to an answer to similar question as yours, I think you'll find some answers there: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/soldering-station-purchase-advice/msg4612993/#msg4612993

Here, at 16:30 you'll see the "coin test" between a 80W ksger with clone-and-original Hakko D52 tips, vs a couple different 120-130W competitors:

And here, you can watch what my quicko with D52 clone tip does after pumping PID parameters: if it doesn't work for you here (don't know why) it should work on YT

[BlackICE]

@tatel
Hi, what does TL;DR mean ? Yes, I saw the thread you pointed me to, so do you recommend a T12 soldering station like KSGER or Quicko ?

@BlackICE
Hi, now in the photo I don't know if they made a mistake in indicating the tips, maybe the T15 indicated in the photo is a T12, in any case the T15 and T12 tips should be different.  Which soldering station do you recommend ?

I have both a WE1010NA and KSGER T12. I like the KSGER much better. Heats up faster, a standby function this is useful, shorter hand to tip distance. However depending on the version you get it may not be "safe" without mods. I grounded the metal case, and moved the heatsink further away from the high voltage traces as some suggested.

The Weller's standby function is useless IMO, I have to press a button to wake it up. Always pisses me off when it sleeps. Also wakeup time is more than 30 seconds, whereas the KSGER is less than 10 secs.

I bought T15 tips from hakkousa.com and they look like what you show as a T12. These tips fit the KSGER handle I got.

[djsb]

I would save up and buy one of these

https://www.antex.co.uk/store/p/m12-w9wdk-mg96e-7bnxp-hke3z-ndrtm-cjw7g-cws4k-56tfy

Antex have been around for a LONG time. My first Soldering Iron was an Antex over 40 years ago. I now use a PACE MBT350.

[marck120]

Thanks everyone for the advice

@IanB

From what you explained to me, it uses hakko 900M tips, the soldering station seems excellent, the problem is that I don't use Ryobi tools, I should also buy the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Reoben-Replacement-for-P2002-Battery/dp/B0CKW7CX84/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=36CNKP9KNM737&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.iUA5lCZMC549gGJgtCZoB4rhOyJp3NsT5PN5laiJs6OTC_ rzYWB0Oa2Oc_GYgXqeK3JVfGBysHA9WvGvfsHomuvyJVNZCahwF5xKXhfX9WjyGOFrz1vyCHXfTeM24SgbLoRQSGR6GuQZ4-3MT4wbbeTeyxV7MZYsDuo6vKcIktr7LBhbGnf39 GqGm53s4Oav_YNI2U2GsEvuISzVfkg5MFJ7r1xUGqG8B5h9ZxC0QhgaeA1eIRH2WQlnk_GTZpq4MSdnpQI5rvWpOQmVNuN4Vonl5jIRKftWHBs_VOs67n0.iaqWaeLn4O4xXf77xvwhzxf sE6s0dbtGUfM NRF10qs4&dib_tag=se&keywords=ryobi%2B18v%2Bbattery&qid=1726044859&sprefix=RYOBI%2B%2Caps%2C228&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Consider that I live in Italy on amazon.com I have about 18€ -20€ shipping

@a temahippy

Yes I also evaluated the pen soldering irons like the Antex xs 25w, Antex ER30, Ersa 30s, JBC 30ST etc.. the problem is that they do not have temperature control, I am afraid that the too high temperature will burn my components, for this reason they recommended a pen like the CXG E60WT E90WT that have temperature control, however I agree with you pen soldering irons have a simple construction and last for many years.

@tatel

The only QUICKO I found with the STM32 microcontroller is this one:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32803295956.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.458a2ff2E5wTkg&algo_pvid=fda4651e-eb44-4d01-b24b-914ea966f057&algo_exp_id=fda4651e-eb44-4d01-b24b-914ea966f057-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2148.08%2138.40%21% 21%2151.83%2141.40%21%402103854017260437777681992e1cdf%2110000000955772946%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=xS1R39QMDBwX&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Personally I preferred to get it with the LED display :

 https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005741819569.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.3.571bS27XS27X4h&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40000.327270.0&scm_id=1007. 40000.327270.0&scm-url=1007.40000.327270.0&pvid=620b60e1-0c40-4f1d-98fd-4e8f61149669&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,sc m-url:1007.40000.327270.0,pvid:620b60e1-0c40-4f1d-98fd-4e8f61149669,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2187.32 %2121.50%21%21%21670. 18%21165.01%21%40210384db17260438035147432e1cdc%2112000034179692199%21rec%21IT%21%21ABX&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A

I didn't know about the custom firmware, I thought the Quicko didn't have the grounding problem unlike the KSGER, which soldering station do you currently have ? You have several from what I understand, IIRC I don't understand what it means, however your soldering stations have an internal power supply.

Don't you recommend getting the Quicko with the external power supply ?

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32857152188.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.0.0.1b744ff9Faj5JY&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%2040%2C41%21%E2%82%AC%2028 %20%2C29%21%21%2143.86%2130.71%21%40210385a817256920521122226e80c7%2165279967789%21sh%20%21IT%210%21X&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita

However, I have no alternatives to Quicko/KSGER ? With the stations compatible with the 900M tips there is a wide choice.

I forgot, on Amazon the YIHUA 948DB+ compatible with T12 tips is also available, what do you think ?

@BlackICE

In some models the ground wire seems to have been added:



https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32945257770.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.6e1573c66oBgEj&algo_pvid=910c4044-cb73- 4d1b-923f-3cd1e890c47b&aem_p4p_detail=202409110401193716280578838450000146553&algo_exp_id=910c4044-cb73-4d1b-923f-3cd1e890c47b-3&pdp _npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2166.65%2139.75 %21%21%2171.85%2142.86%21%40211b8f9717260524793183262e1d36%2110000000943747424%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=UPpfJm07suqn&utparam-url =scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A&search_p4p_id=202409110401193716280578838450000146553_1

After many years still the grounding issue has not been completely solved, instead I have to find out how to move the heat sink further away from the high voltage tracks, instead the Quicko they say does not have this grounding problem. My fear is that the Quicko or the KSGER will last me a short time, the components with which the switching power supply or the control module is built I think are of low quality.

@djsb

Yes, Antex are quality products, the 760RWK unfortunately costs 200€, I didn't want to spend that much, however I was looking for a soldering station that would last me for many years, I was almost about to order the hakko fx-888d but then I regretted it because I think the stations with T12 tips perform better.

[IanB]

@IanB

From what you explained to me, it uses hakko 900M tips, the soldering station seems excellent, the problem is that I don't use Ryobi tools, I should also buy the battery.

Consider that I live in Italy on amazon.com I have about 18€ -20€ shipping

You are correct, you would need also to buy battery and charger. This would make sense if you used other Ryobi tools (they have quite a large range and there may be something else you like).

In Italy, I would not buy from Amazon.com, I would buy from a local distributor:

https://it.ryobitools.eu/elettroutensili/altro/saldare/rsi18/rsi18-0/

And to confirm, it uses T18 tips the same as the FX-888D.

[BrokenYugo]

The off brand T12, etc. stations are available with no internal PSU, just a DC barrel input on the back. That's as safe as whatever power supply you choose to use.

[themadhippy]

I am afraid that the too high temperature will burn my components,

In the years ive owned my antex i can count on zero fingers how many components ive destroyed from overheating.

[tatel]

The only QUICKO I found with the STM32 microcontroller is this one:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32803295956.html

Yep. It looks almost like mine with >100W internal PSU. Advertised with a real STM32, not a CKS clone. That's because of that custom firmware. For a little more than 40 bucks I wouldn't think too much. Price has dropped after COVID. I would get the set 7 ( which does not include mains cable, I guess you'll probably already have quite a bunch of IEC cables somewhere). Set 7 has the handle I use, and it seems to be considered the best one. Get chisel tips. Big D52 tip comes handy when good thermal transfer is needed.

I'm pretty sure there's at least another Quicko model with STM32, but perhaps not anymore? These guys change models like crazy. One of them would have a weak regulator or something like that IIRC?

Edit: Perhaps the good one is the 958?

Ask/read the custom firmware thread.

Personally I preferred to get it with the LED display :

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005741819569.html

It's your money, do as you wish.

I didn't know about the custom firmware, I thought the Quicko didn't have the grounding problem unlike the KSGER, which soldering station do you currently have ? You have several from what I understand, IIRC I don't understand what it means, however your soldering stations have an internal power supply.

Don't you recommend getting the Quicko with the external power supply ?

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32857152188.html

However, I have no alternatives to Quicko/KSGER ? With the stations compatible with the 900M tips there is a wide choice.

I forgot, on Amazon the YIHUA 948DB+ compatible with T12 tips is also available, what do you think ?

Well you asked for advice and I gave you my best answer. My only other soldering station was an old-school Yihua and I gave it to a 17 years old, son of a friend, after getting the quicko.

I got my station a few years ago, so speaking from memory. Don't quote me. My model isn't manufactured anymore. I didn't have any problem whatsoever. I'm still using it. Not a heavy use, but it didn't died suddenly a few days after purchase because there's some weak component in it.

Of course, you are free to pick your poison. Of course, you probably won't be able to find your ideal soldering station. Of course, some compromise will be necessary.

But, again, you should read/ask on the custom firmware thread.The guys in that thread will have much more up-to-date information. Do your homework.

[marck120]

@tatel

Thanks for the information

Yes, I have some IEC cables at home, it's not a problem, yes as you advised me the best handle should be the blue 907 or 9501, which is made of aluminum alloy I think.

However it's true, the models change continuously, I don't understand anything anymore either, it's not easy for me, consider that I'm translating everything with google, some things are not very clear to me.

As you advised me I ask in the discussion that they indicated to me to understand which version I should buy, yes this user purchased the Quicko T12-958

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/stm32-oled-digital-soldering-station-for-t12-handle/msg5580607/#msg5580607

Exactly I was also evaluating other alternatives, even if as they already told me the best solution is a T12 station, then this firmware should improve performance as you showed me in the video.

In the end I settle for a simple soldering station, the important thing is that it is robust built with quality components, the control module and the power supply are easily replaceable ? on aliexpress I see that there are all the spare parts.





The other T12 station I was telling you about is this one :

 https://www.amazon.it/Preciva-presetati-visualizzazione-Termostatica-Intelligente/dp/B0CB3VS9JD/ref=sr_1_5?crid=15XVSDSSCCUTR&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.sr-40lgtdEvX436i3XXGKjUlrqONnWCt6fknppicwAMsoHYNB2W23 tDK29BcUlrQS6J4TGEU97DIO2lelxtpZ18tWxmjuuhfM12ka1BFKM_qNgcxdGUP5NRVphnUxrNG_XiTIJFpMyj1DYK-T3 yJUCqPL0wrViyoA6Z8VVHEkex2IKMSsjbuG2Iy4itDPBaVvtzNV4O8mkHa_RcfckkZVPtLZH01LrVlAxTBCx8-shEt7BpC80EP6bHEpmIv0GsDvIxlTItGRLpQ_WHXhem43-WQ5pLxGyIgobpqKSHtZM 0.Yaejdn85Uekok5qfGEpJikz7h8RhB-Nv-YW9BCy_YP0&dib_tag=se&keywords=soldering+station+t12&qid=1726051782&sprefix=station+t12%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-5

@IanB

Unfortunately, as I said, I don't have other Ryobi products, buying the whole kit would cost too much, however, it's also on amazon.it:

https://www.amazon.it/Ryobi-RSI18-0-Precisione-Temperatura-Impugnatura/dp/B0BNLZBB23/ref=asc_df_B0BNLZBB23/?tag=googshopit-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=700872326089&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2640631158150375716&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt= &hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9203511&hvtargid=pla-1945229076891&psc=1&mcid=e1ffb481a5ad3b1e9d2f6fe28594d4cb&gad_source=1

The problem is that the battery is enough dear :

https://www.amazon.it/Ibanti-Soposizione-Batteria-RB18L50-Indicatore/dp/B0CW2Z91KL/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3TC3ZWP3PMSRZ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.5P0fRzdHAIPvymkZaCHGrSzumkuXRALtUk5TQpd3EoB1N -8Ulke ef_vHRCeJD6WaqTZ_WuHXAlsYfDrz6Pp_SVaDPIPpJoyIs0k9-8KoeuI8wUv1CCdbqCpXnI-1ZjJ1gp-MKhB6A4p86M5rLJolMZdPo_4eCWS970FV3NkcnetawNkBWx2HmtpJMim3I 2TUG6xARUBHa0vfDuKWPv8HQyljg2mFY6jW82_zzR3gurBRZ8rRRz cNIF5tqWb1zXEkS1uZCcTCWgoRwc5iPGOswrqtsp3wbL7LdSeWPnZBvKI.CvPVJcd_8dtKfo8oenFrejRQgCWWtXlnVjFXkUyd7ro&dib_tag=se&keywords=ryobi+battery+18v&qid=172610197 5&sprefix=Ryobi%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-2-sp ons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1#customerReviews https://www.amazon.it/dp/B092JG3NBF?m=A11IL2PNWYJU7H&utm_campaign=manufacturer&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=click2buy&utm_term=ryobi

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B092JG3NBF?m=A11IL2PNWYJU7H&utm_campaign=manufacturer&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=click2buy&utm_term=ryobi

@BrokenYugo

Yes, for this reason I was wondering if it is better to buy the soldering station with the internal or external power supply, with the external power supply I can choose a 24v power supply of my choice, if the external power supply is damaged it is very easy to replace it, with the internal power supply it is more complicated, I do not know if they are all compatible, like this one for example :

https://www.amazon.it/ARCELI-Modulo-alimentazione-switching-85-265V/dp/B09DYG9NSM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=38KVUEX9NQZEO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8NSh4wMEv1zPaHPYh1vGdfobDBtHGlY4PBKZMUBeOI3-Xh6zLJ AC7BXXBdgZGgsksDuwvM0Y5-6jWRXT8r-mZTurpPlEG2bglRE3vxzgMuT21yCmCgN3JfKNxbdNxpY5AqaLOgm_6TbBs2fIOcE4E7gGfQwkSpLjArD 88Nd4plmrPDLcfdr6nqHYk2kafrSiJKIXM3e9gxD75uh4BD-con5ClFWB6nEYaRLdX9U-LIEv6Iwgv0y8ZCx8sHPIo2v8-RHlvX4vzbIYgw_vc_TR5V82vaFqkbgaBijm4vCm9n4.jH8-eQMq WDil58-43uuxem2JHKmWVPC-LyaoIkEQM4E&dib_tag=se&keywords=power supply+switching+24%20V&qid=1726036981&sprefix=power supply+switching+%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-13

Required a specific power supply I think ?

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32834572016.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.promoteRecommendProducts_6404659.32834572016&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/4000577553855.html?spm=a2g0o.imagesearchproductlist.main.1.eed7aniyaniyAz&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2110.83%215.26%21%21%2111.68%215.68%21%40210384b217261042155595247e1d08%2110000003287685729%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=84m4XyfkeMOM&utparam-url=scene%3Aimage_search%7Cquery_from%3Apc_web_image_search



I also believe the control module is easily replaceable ?





https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006123580979.html?spm=a2g0o.imagesearchproductlist.main.5.2ebeHgRcHgRclC&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2138.71%2121.29%21%21%21297.08%21163.39%21%40211b61a417261084337192408eeb4e%2112000035859677259%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=VPXvQQxYUX7H&utparam-url=scene%3Aimage_search%7Cquery_from%3Apc_web_image_search

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007254831521.html?spm=a2g0o.imagesearchproductlist.main.1.6268BZvQBZvQgY&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2145.40%2115.89%21%21%21348.43%21121.95%21%40211b61a417261086515643703eeb4e%2112000039962617071%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=PlKRubC00M9o&utparam-url=scene%3Aimage_search%7Cquery_from%3Apc_web_image_search

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005003484054987.html?aff_fcid=1d2ad070c0a440459ff657789a25568f-1726114584379-00136-_DnF8jxD&tt=CPS_NORMAL&aff_fsk=_DnF8jxD&aff_platform=shareComponent-detail&sk=_DnF8jxD&aff_trace_key=1d2ad070c0a440459ff657789a25568f-1726114584379-00136-_DnF8jxD&terminal_id=f2b834e050b64fe1bb7f725b8e49d615&afSmartRedirect=y

@themadhippy

As soon as I choose the soldering iron to start I have to solder the pins of a SHT45 sensor, it is very delicate, an excessive temperature could damage some components, I made a thermometer with Arduino nano and a ST7735 display

[tatel]

@tatel

Yes, I have some IEC cables at home, it's not a problem, yes as you advised me the best handle should be the blue 907 or 9501, which is made of aluminum alloy I think.

9501 is what I got and it's plastic. Aluminum ones get too hot in the hand, someone said...

I would get 958 station and some tips. I don't think anybody could get more bang for €50 nowadays.

But, to make it work really well, you'll need also something like this (it worked for me better than the Haako FG-100 clone, which had not much quality, even the thermocouples it came with were difficult to put in it)

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32882463397.html

And, of course, the thermocouples for it. Get a whole bunch, you'll need it. The ones that came with the FG-100 clone were utter crap, they were either mad from the beginning or behave like crazy after just a few measurements. Then I got more from AliExpress that were bad too. Others have reported the same, see:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/stm32-oled-digital-soldering-station-for-t12-handle/msg3616632/#msg3616632

Fortunately EBay seller gloriadiy has better. Still clones I think, still cheap, but good enough:

https://www.ebay.es/itm/261905476277
https://www.ebay.es/itm/253107022572

So, you'd be really going further than €50, but still well under €100, and I think its well worth the money. Of course, YMMV

Good luck

[David Hess]

The least expensive temperature controlled iron that I would trust is the Weller 60 watt pencil iron.  The W61 version runs on 240VAC.

https://www.amazon.it/WELLER-005-61-036-W61-Soldering/dp/B003A69N5E/

[thm_w]

I would consider the Yihua 982 T245 station $63, or possibly the Geenboon T20A as these are both advertised as being properly grounded.
Or one of the T12's if you really want to save money.

Anyone suggesting a non temperature controlled iron is hopeless.

If you are lacking funds I can help you out.

[themadhippy]

Anyone suggesting a non temperature controlled iron is hopeless.

Really? Ive used numerous irons over the years and will stick with my trusty antex for 99% of jobs,the 1% is dealt with by the gas blowtorch.plug it in wait a minute  and its ready to go,no fiddling setting the temperature,no annoying cool down when its put back in the stand and a decent thermal mass to just get on with it

[marck120]

@tatel

Thanks for the explanations and advice

The STM32 T12-958 is this, the other station I had indicated was the 951.

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005003064223657.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2148.59%2148.59%21%21%2152.59%2152.59%21%4021410fef17255386460107085d0a20%2112000023729562229%21affd%21%21%21&dp=CjwKCAjwooq3BhB3EiwAYqYoEm4IvfrwsoOx9iJQH8r1x7_GFZIzUGdJhywnXGBJCATAIxS1bjgJ8hoCvLMQAvD_BwE&gclid=CjwKCAjwooq3BhB3EiwAYqYoEm4IvfrwsoOx9iJQH8r1x7_GFZIzUGdJhywnXGBJCATAIxS1bjgJ8hoCvLMQAvD_BwE&aff_fcid=c103af63ef7c435cbe3ad742c904d863-1726185074316-04518&aff_fsk&aff_platform=api-new-product-query&sk&aff_trace_key=c103af63ef7c435cbe3ad742c904d863-1726185074316-04518&terminal_id=f2b834e050b64fe1bb7f725b8e49d615&afSmartRedirect=y

Yes, thank you, I had forgotten that it is necessary to calibrate the soldering station to obtain the correct temperature.

Doing some research I also discovered that to load a possible firmware I also need a programmer.

https://www.amazon.it/Simulator-Programming-programmazione-Scaricatore-Emulatore/dp/B07H9XV2W2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1S5WYCHMQI99Y&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.o1srzaofh8FZ8nHcQYuIT7co-97PmyqoVsT4V2DNhFmE-C-fjdVNiu6olWGAEHxkObbxXwZcTghOeNDjKLUCUgGV2F486MECc2cWd7I3fmtO2LNGnzunoEEYiL59ea66rd3kqsrFF-j-GEI92HD4euhStUXB6j7QoFS8lmJw2wmzkNs3wZmcTaDxW1LDlHXycueW-nuEnnYbMp03DLAxqnWzNVtzDcjyhQldudwJnK_tPSukwCDu1eQQeLs613IRYPO9BCk17aPPcJz87LHJJglrCBmqFmNXfB3gUnxV--E.Vubo2ORSCwEnkczXXLvMyxCMgQAjpFLcqRqN6Ojawr4&dib_tag=se&keywords=ST-Link+V2+stlink&qid=1726124747&sprefix=st-link+v2+stlink+%2Caps%2C565&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006734818599.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=272-267-0231&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=it1005006734818599&ds_e_product_merchant_id=5345619886&ds_e_product_country=IT&ds_e_product_language=it&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=20730495829&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwooq3BhB3EiwAYqYoEnvL2DGORtIq2w36I8acDROOvc1iuWSr2mwL1Uf1w9RcBL3bGBpRbBoCKEgQAvD_BwE

Among other things I also need the tin, they recommended the 63/37 tin, it is difficult to find quality tin at a good price, the one sold on aliexpress they say is of low quality.

I hope the supplied tips are of good quality.

@David Hess

Thanks for the advice, unfortunately the W61 is not exactly cheap, but I did not understand how the temperature is regulated, I looked at the photos of the soldering iron but I do not see anything to be able to set the temperature.

@thm_w

The GEEBOON TC20A seems the same as the Aixun T3A, it's not that they have the same problems.



Yes I had seen the Yihua 982, from what I read the c245 tips are considered superior to the T12, they are more performing and reach higher temperatures.

There are many soldering stations, it's not easy to choose, in my opinion in the end it's better to take the one with a simpler construction.

The various Quecoo or KSGER stations seem more easily repairable to me, for example on aliexpress you can find all the spare parts, control modules and power supplies, which are the two main components, this is just my thought, I don't know if the reasoning is right.

Here is a brief summary of the stations I had found:

The soldering stations that I found at an affordable price compatible with T12 tips are:

Axun T3A, Quicko/Quecoo, KSGER, Yihua 948DB, AIFEN A8, Bakon BK969D

Stations soldering irons C245/T245 :

YIHUA 982, AIFEN-A3, Aifen A9, SUGON-A9, SUGON T21, AiXun T320

[David Hess]

@David Hess

Thanks for the advice, unfortunately the W61 is not exactly cheap, but I did not understand how the temperature is regulated, I looked at the photos of the soldering iron but I do not see anything to be able to set the temperature.

The iron uses the Weller Magnastat system for temperature control. There is a switch and magnet in the handle which shuts off the heater once the Curie point is reached for the material in the tip, so the temperature is changed by swapping tips, which are readily available and inexpensive.

You said you were looking for a simple reliable system of temperature control, and it does not get any simpler than this.  These irons typically last decades, and replacement parts are readily available.  Over the decades I have seen one worn out tip, which was on a production station, so it was on for 8 hours a day, 5 days a week, for years.

https://hackaday.com/2016/06/01/long-term-review-weller-magnastat-soldering-iron/

[marck120]

@David Hess


Thanks for the info

Yes exactly, I was looking for a simple and reliable system, I admit I didn't know about this system that Weller uses, however there is no way to set a temperature to your liking,.

On the site it says this:

"The Magnastat is a simple but very effective iron with a fixed controlled temperature. The tip has a magnet on the rear end that keeps a power switch for the heating element closed. When the tip has heated up to the Curie temperature of the magnet, it loses its magnetism and the switch opens. The temperature drops below the Curie temperature and the magnetism returns, the switch closes, the tip heats up again and the cycle repeats. The temperature of the tip is therefore dictated by the Curie temperature of the magnet and Weller supply a range of tips with magnets for different temperatures."

If I understand correctly as you also explained to me the temperature is fixed and is controlled by this magnet on the tip that opens and closes a switch based on the Curie temperature.

But I also read this:

"The result is an iron with enough power to solder heat-sucking jobs that would leave lesser irons breathless, while having the delicacy to solder tiny surface-mount components without destroying them or lifting the tracks,"

In the end it is an automatic process but it is very interesting, I did not know this system.

As you explained it is difficult to find the replacement tip but this one lasts decades.

[tatel]

Doing some research I also discovered that to load a possible firmware I also need a programmer.

Yep, I got a cheap one from AliExpress. The one from amazon could easily be the same thing at quite a few times the price.

Among other things I also need the tin, they recommended the 63/37 tin, it is difficult to find quality tin at a good price, the one sold on aliexpress they say is of low quality.

Well 60/40 would be about the same, but it wouldn't be eutectic. So it would melt/solidify at different temperatures, eutectic would melt/solidify at the same temperature. Probably you won't notice the difference unless having a quite precise thermocouple, etc. I did calibrate mine with 60/40 IIRC. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

I hope the supplied tips are of good quality.

Hell. no. If you want good quality tips, get original Haako/JBC tips and pay for them. In that case you wouldn't probably need give them a burning-in time, nor to calibrate each tip, nor fine tune its PID parameters. With clone T12 tips, there's a lot of variability. The homework to do with each and every tip allows you to have good enough working tips for peanuts. You'll be trading work for money.

You'll probably see some tips with a dark plating at a higher price, I tried them and didn't notice any difference. That dark plating could perhaps make them more durable? I dunno. Of course you'll have to care for your tips anyway,  cleaned and tinned between uses. But if you are not going to use the station heavily, the "normal" clone tips are quite probably good enough.

You should make sure you get some chisel tips, pure conical ones are more difficult because there is less contact surface -> worse heat transfer. And a BIG D52 tip to work over ground planes, etc, where heat dissipates so fast that a smaller tip couldn't do the job. The better way it's probably to get the set with just one tip, then purchase some additional BC or D tips in different sizes.

[David Hess]

If I understand correctly as you also explained to me the temperature is fixed and is controlled by this magnet on the tip that opens and closes a switch based on the Curie temperature.

The temperature is changed by changing the tip.  The tips come in 500, 600, 700, and 800 F degrees, but this is probably not what you are looking for.

As you explained it is difficult to find the replacement tip but this one lasts decades.

It is easy and inexpensive to buy replacement tips, although I do not see many on Italy Amazon.

My next choice would be the lease expensive Weller station which use ETS tips, but it is more expensive than your other options:

https://www.amazon.it/Weller-Professional-T0053298699-T0053298399-Temperatura/dp/B079ZN87FT/

[marck120]

@tatel

Thanks for the explanations

About the pond I found this:

https://www.cedelettronica.com/it/prodotti/elettronica/stagno-in-bobina-100g-60sn-40pb-0-75-mm-alfa-e/3431

https://www.amazon.it/ROCCHETTO-SALDARE-SALDATURA-LABORATORIO-QUALITY/dp/B08P52M34V/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1P8VQK3WKH0X2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0tKD671St4xdwz6J-PAmIBhm0YU_WJIBaV4ObhbvbwIKNQ-5EUOEnvDcMzdg0f2G1BRdKt6_oLp4tqGTGOn3tMPDVqJTlXOFp_elwc4ToEhValax4Z0_C3_GWcw4zTg6frnhghiRU10-Kf-0XgSf3qq0p37nerEF3h6SUsqfs8zTRkXLiepvqV2vvM7RRu50GgaI0mH-OB3aLPj8Fu8pEtkEcSYo3-O0HP90aMFClJhyeq21nXUvCodRU8lz3h1b3q2Joabe5G3PKQUCGgfvDSDQ-nswDolhBK6fo2SmplA.Yd_TNmJtbb75UQNcEpZKMEnKGQX4PoF0kFUQ2LGBqvg&dib_tag=se&keywords=stagno+60%2F40&qid=1726220561&refinements=p_n_free_shipping_eligible%3A20930967031&rnid=20930966031&sprefix=stagno%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.it/STAGNO-60-40-MM-100GR/dp/B072FN1FPB/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1P8VQK3WKH0X2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.vCVvYvoyszENs-D6pqhc9jXtH8t_tEz3rUFQfK4nyJ4Wrl7eznajUJO4IDtoXw8RsShXZhtSmST97NVzZVwC6hRxUrxWESSYQIZId_CnLj4X9dzgffE1NUVNPkc94uoKP74HLnods33VWeF6V8mn8pRNfICMp8oK3BRfKPDdWHiTVYnMlXWuYO7YwrRwk6jQzinPbdZLx1DUy5oQficorxs42HAmFpkltr4OSOSCtlYCN-K_RoQ_rRgYJuiY_vvAwcdhZdGRGTO2t00lB4ntVwvbEJ44_0BKeqg-G303L08.qpYKvsrk-kxyGIuj-eut9ckntypP9LPcpRO5PAZOTzE&dib_tag=se&keywords=stagno+60%2F40&qid=1726220600&sprefix=stagno%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-6

As I said they recommended the RASW.031 4OZ but it is difficult to find it in European shops, on digikey there are €18 for shipping:

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/chip-quik-inc/RASW-031-4OZ/9681988

About the tips, so the original Haako/JBC are already calibrated from the factory, the calibration depends entirely on the tips, I would have found these but I don't know if they are original:

https://www.batterfly.com/shop/it/hakko-t12-bl

https://www.batterfly.com/shop/it?route=product/search&search=HAKKO%20t12

https://eleshop.eu/t12-series-soldering-tips.html

However for now I am happy with the T12 clone tips that come with the soldering station, yes I also found a set of tips on aliexpress, I think they are fine:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005364965035.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.507a4465lEb8Tl&algo_pvid=a7184db2-5dd1-4993-ac64-6cbb4d6776b2&aem_p4p_detail=202409130231092889571287478260000135313&algo_exp_id=a7184db2-5dd1-4993-ac64-6cbb4d6776b2-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%214.52%210.91%21%21%214.89%210.98%21%40211b617a17262198694224279e8ace%2112000032754550861%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=eBMDBunRLpuR&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A&search_p4p_id=202409130231092889571287478260000135313_1

If you know of any shops where you can buy good clone tips, please send me some links.

Anyway maybe it is as I said, power supply and controller are interchangeable, to power the controller you just need a negative and positive wire:



Even if in the end the GX16 5 Pin connector must always be soldered:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005003671476138.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.11.56c6sr29sr296L&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40196.366102.0&scm_id=1007.40196.366102.0&scm-url=1007.40196.366102.0&pvid=9bc0bfc4-cde4-4dcd-b8f3-5c69fce6a388&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40196.366102.0,pvid:9bc0bfc4-cde4-4dcd-b8f3-5c69fce6a388,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238108%231977&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%218.49%218.49%21%21%219.19%219.19%21%40211b80e117262309794744293ed07a%2112000031960329922%21rec%21IT%21%21ABX&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005004550846283.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.a2af5f62KGrmAw&algo_pvid=7bb5fde8-12af-4ab7-a3cc-217f844b807f&algo_exp_id=7bb5fde8-12af-4ab7-a3cc-217f844b807f-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%212.01%212.01%21%21%2115.49%2115.49%21%40211b653717262318888817550e01ab%2112000029579397370%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=kBay6KN36EZh&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

I don't understand what the acronym "IIRC" means.

@David Hess

Here, I didn't know that the temperature also changed based on the tip, maybe it's not easy to find the tips on the market.  I've seen so many soldering stations that it's really complicated to choose.

Regarding the Weller WE 1010 despite the shipping costs it costs me much less on amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-Digital-Soldering-Station-WE1010NA/dp/B077JDGY1J/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1I0Z0Z1W6E40J&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Poi5oWl3q_wd_85H12B4yyaix5-GQs2GoNMm9rAjMlmMkabpNVM1pKLRvMurLCEjV-tBVXFTBT7Amp4yHC564KSXpMb7NtQinWww1a80mZm5mMKZi_U9aWF655Pyzqv8oDIot5Yaf_Qi1x2lcPuSR1uBfB4Cm3l8wLlQhmJkVyrW3lGFphgvhQcZDcJS085FPPU2ianiTUgrAqxlYSSVKGlGgt7rujOKosdeNfovpiDptNH935jHeeOkqoVzw9jrU6J76OzqMTvTBOAn1vvRNqL2c6reGsBxAxfaA69pclY.s9CfkZDDXjAm6VCSrANSt31pYNrXVadxdwRUQ2QaRRo&dib_tag=se&keywords=Weller%2BWE%2B1010&qid=1726232922&sprefix=weller%2Bwe%2B1010%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-1&th=1

Amazon.com 104,32€ + 26,97€ = 131,29€, on amazon.it costs 174,28€

It's a shame there are such high shipping costs.

[tatel]

As I said they recommended the RASW.031 4OZ but it is difficult to find it in European shops, on digikey there are €18 for shipping:

Digikey has free shipping on purchases over $50+VAT orders? Anyway I'm pretty sure you will be able to find 63/37 tin in Europe (if needed). 60/40 will quite probably work fine. It does so for me. YMMV

About the tips, so the original Haako/JBC are already calibrated from the factory, the calibration depends entirely on the tips, I would have found these but I don't know if they are original:

Both batterfly and eleshop are reputable european sellers, I very much doubt they would be selling fakes.

The matter with T12 clone tips is, you can buy, say, 2 D52 tips, measure the resistance on both and find one is 8 ohm and the other is 6 ohm. No way the same calibration, PID parameters, etc, could be applied to both. Hence, you need to calibrate and fine tune each and every T12 clone tip you get. Perhaps, more than once in the life of the tip.

Originals are expected to be much more the same to each other, so perhaps it would be enough to calibrate once one tip of each type... This has a price, however, and I found I can work with clone tips after carefully calibrated and fine tuned. This is a time consuming task, more so the first times. You can expect to put quite a few hours in it. Again, this is a matter of work vs money. YMMV

However for now I am happy with the T12 clone tips that come with the soldering station, yes I also found a set of tips on aliexpress, I think they are fine:
(...)
If you know of any shops where you can buy good clone tips, please send me some links.

I got my tips on quicko store.
https://aliexpress.com/item/32833768846.html
https://aliexpress.com/item/32834486432.html
https://aliexpress.com/item/32833792043.html
and so on...

"high grade" ones
https://aliexpress.com/item/32834661555.html

STlink V2
https://aliexpress.com/item/32830611775.html

I don't understand what the acronym "IIRC" means.

You can google all these acronyms

[thm_w]

The GEEBOON TC20A seems the same as the Aixun T3A, it's not that they have the same problems.

Geeboon advertises tip to ground connection, and they have told me the same thing. Aixun T3a does not have this.
I have not seen internal photos of the geeboon yet to verify this though. So yeah I would wait until someone does a proper review on the TC20A.

[marck120]

@tatel

Thank you very much for the advice.

About the calibration of the tips, however, it is not a problem, I buy the calibration device that you recommended, to start with the clone tips will be fine, without calibration it is impossible to understand at what temperature the tip is, usually I have seen that they solder around 300 °, it depends on the components obviously.

Regarding the tin, 60/40 in general is easier to find, I found some spools of 63/37 tin but it is of low quality, the branded one costs quite a lot, since there are no big differences I will use the 60/40 with a thickness of 0.8

As for the acronym IIRC obviously I did some research on Google and it appears If I Recall Correctly, so it means: "If I remember correctly" but I'm not sure.

EDIT :

They answered me in the discussion you indicated, they told me to check the github, at this point is it better to take the T12-958 v2 or which model ?

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005002724765690.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.3d43hoVrhoVrcJ&algo_pvid=06311a3b-57b1-4d27-b671-9c9b69f25a5d&algo_exp_id=06311a3b-57b1-4d27-b671-9c9b69f25a5d-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2167.42%2156.99%21%21%2172.98%2161.68%21%4021038e7717262740116864301e0409%2112000021872948123%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=xiIqCmTsdtVd&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A#nav-review

"Almost perfect, just a small grounding issue. The station can accept mains input or 24VDC input. On 24VDC the frame and the tip of the iron are both grounded, but on mains only the frame is grounded. The soldering iron handle connector has a ground pin - tying it to the ground pin on the mains input IEC connector with a single wire solved the problem - see the black/red wire in the attached picture. The station now works perfectly and is a pleasure to use."



https://github.com/deividAlfa/stm32_soldering_iron_controller?tab=readme-ov-file#compatibility

Currently supported controllers:

Quicko T12-072: First gen Quicko, STM32F072 variant. Compatibility issues were fixed since v1.04.
Quicko T12-103 First gen Quicko, same board but mounting a STM32F103.
KSGER v1.5: Profile for STM32F103 (There are no other known CPUs used in this board).
KSGER v2, JCD T12, T12-955, Handskit: Profile compatible with all STM32F101/2/3xx models.
KSGER v3, T12-958: Profile compatible with all STM32F101/2/3xx models.
T12-958 v2: Profile compatible with STM32F103. Needs a mod for battery to work.
Don't follow the version reported in the original firmware to identify your board.
To this day, the easiest way to quickly identify your controller version is by checking the OLED screen connection:

4 pin (I2C) = Generic v2 (KSGER/Quecoo/Handskit/etc.)
6 pin (SPI) = Generic v3
7 pin (SPI) = Only used by KSGER v1.5 or first gen Quicko, easy to differentiate.
For KSGER v2/v3: As long as use the correct firmware, any STM32 variant (101/102/103/C8/R8/CB/RB) will work.
There are several compatible/cloned boards in the market that will work fine with KSGER profiles.

T12-951, T12-952, T12-956, T12-959 use STC MCU, not supported by this firmware.

@thm_w

Perfect thanks for the information, regarding the Aixun T3a in the video there was no mention of the problems with the grounding but it had difficulty maintaining the temperature, perhaps some bug in the software, I don't know.

Regarding the QUICKO, among the user reviews I found a photo of the inside of the soldering station, you can see the grounding cable, but I don't understand if it is a user modification.

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32803295956.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.6b1cafe2hrSUxZ&algo_pvid=7ec99343-1511-4fd2-9052-97b92c797d27&algo_exp_id=7ec99343-1511-4fd2-9052-97b92c797d27-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2147.88%2138.25%21%21%2151.83%2141.40%21%40211b6c1717262177045842226e537c%2110000000955772946%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=EsCiLxwx43jl&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A#nav-review

Checking better I saw that the station is built already with the grounding.

[tatel]

They answered me in the discussion you indicated, they told me to check the github, at this point is it better to take the T12-958 v2 or which model ?

Analysis paralysis? At this point I think it's pretty clear that quicko 958 should work with custom firmware. You could ask the seller if it does really have an original STM32/oled display/what handle it comes with

I really can't add much more to what is already said.

Good luck

[coppercone2]

On the durability of irons, I recommend you go wood fired.

https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=21013

[marck120]

@tatel

Thank you, yes I was asking for confirmation, yes exactly I have to ask the seller if the quicko 958 is the v2 version.

Thanks again for everything.

@coppercone2

These last even if they are not very practical to use, but if they sell them someone uses them, I have an old soldering iron and it has a copper tip, after 20 years it still works, obviously it has no temperature regulation.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I thank everyone who replied to me, I received a lot of advice, very kind.

[tatel]

Thank you, yes I was asking for confirmation, yes exactly I have to ask the seller if the quicko 958 is the v2 version.

Thanks again for everything.

No need for it to be v2 version; what's needed is it has real STM32 or fully compatible clone, and oled screen

[marck120]

Thank you, yes I was asking for confirmation, yes exactly I have to ask the seller if the quicko 958 is the v2 version.

Thanks again for everything.

No need for it to be v2 version; what's needed is it has real STM32 or fully compatible clone, and oled screen

Perfect, I'm trying to contact the seller, but from what users say and the photos they posted it's a STM32F103 :

"It has a decent STM32F103 processor Extremely easy to calibrate hints and select hints and a myriad of menus that allow sleep time/temp and stdby time/temp."

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005002724734568.html

[tatel]

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005002724734568.html

Is that white handle what you want? I would recommend the blue one

[marck120]

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005002724734568.html

Is that white handle what you want? I would recommend the blue one

With the blue handle there is this model, but there is less information about it, a review left by a user I did not like very much, he says that it is not very powerful, in the photos I do not see the ground cable, but I think it is identical to the STM32 T12-958 station that I showed you yesterday.

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005003064223657.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.ba1723adW5rTH5&algo_pvid=36a93af5-790c-47df-b839-bdf0764c0fb1&algo_exp_id=36a93af5-790c-47df-b839-bdf0764c0fb1-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2156.14%2146.05%21%21%2160.77%2149.84%21%402103835c17264000729154228e4566%2112000023729562246%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=BAs9Ll79C04h&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A#nav-review

User comment :

"the article lacks power but for mini welding it is perfect"

[tatel]

With the blue handle there is this model, but there is less information about it, a review left by a user I did not like very much, he says that it is not very powerful, in the photos I do not see the ground cable, but I think it is identical to the STM32 T12-958 station that I showed you yesterday.

Yep, I very much doubt there's a different kind of 958 station just because of the handle. However the connector could have a different number of pins depending on the handle. I think the last one you linked could serve you well. Picture in the listing shows a 6-pin OLED display, this means it's the SPI version, faster than I2C. As said before, I think it's the same thing I got, the only difference would be mine has a CKS clone inside, not a real STM32.

That user reporting it's not very powerful could be right. We don't know what that guy considers "powerful enough". We don't know if he was using custom firmware. We don't know which tip he used. But we know T12 tips are 80W, not 120-130W like others, and we know custom firmware allows us to pump PID settings, giving results similar to these 120-130W tips on different tests, not just the "coin test"

Of course there will be cases when even that wouldn't be enough. I have some non-regulated 220V irons for these cases, including one I got from a CRT TV retired repair guy, which is just a real monster. I use these when I need brute force and I don't fear there's anything that could get cooked/damaged. Yet I'm looking for a hot plate for cases where I do fear something could get cooked/damaged. There's a reason why even guys with 120W soldering stations buy hot plates, there's a reason why people buy hot air stations, and there's a reason why people buy desoldering guns.

Fact is, no station could do all.

At the end of the day, I think that quicko 958 will serve you well, if you can be bothered to buy that thermometer, these thermocouples, the STLink, some good chisel tips, and take the hassle, first to put custom firmware into that STM32, then to get each and every tip carefully calibrated and fine tuned. All of it for half the money other stations would set you back? Work/time/hassle vs money. Pick your poison.

It's your money and your decision. This has worked fine for me. I'm happy with it. YMMV.

[marck120]

@tatel

First of all let me thank you for all the explanations you have given me and the time you are dedicating to me, I hope your explanations are also useful to all the users who read the forum.

Your considerations are right, I don't know what else to add, however I saw that there are QUICKO models with a 120w power supply, I don't know what advantage they have since the T12 tip as you explained to me reaches 80 watts.

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005196528703.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.5a2363cd4dGjMX&algo_pvid=189eae5d-2a2e-4a94-ad57-8fbc9ce5bdb3&algo_exp_id=189eae5d-2a2e-4a94-ad57-8fbc9ce5bdb3-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21139.46%2136.32%21%21%211071.92%21279.14%21%40211b61bb17264756454646178e3fff%2112000032093449966%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=0XJfNvbwoKO2&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A#nav-review

However it has little importance, whether the power supply has 120w or 108w I think it is irrelevant.

Yes exactly, I agree, the consideration of "not very powerful" regarding the user's comment I think is completely useless for us, we do not know his personal needs and the tests he has done, instead we know well the characteristics of a T12 tip and all the benefits of the customized firmware.

In the end I don't need a lot of power, in case of heavy jobs that require a lot of power there are specific devices like the ones you indicated, yes it's true it's not possible to do all the jobs with a single device.

Despite everything I'm strongly considering a C245 soldering station like these, the price is almost identical to a T12 station, I would have a more performing 120 watt tip, I still need a thermometer with the thermocouples that you recommended, the only disadvantage is the price of the C245 tips, an original JBC tip costs a lot but I think you can find some good clones, what do you think ? Is it a bad choice ?

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005943750062.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.66455ee4aMs1JZ&algo_pvid=6e949ec1-b043-4820-be8a-2682218f773f&aem_p4p_detail=202409160108269291118852401960015629784&algo_exp_id=6e949ec1-b043-4820-be8a-2682218f773f-3&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2173.69%2157.58%21%21%2179.82%2162.37%21%40211b6c1917264741063852398e5700%2112000038395193543%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=3gc6Rv5ZyXxh&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A&search_p4p_id=202409160108269291118852401960015629784_1

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005540641453.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=272-267-0231&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=it1005005540641453&ds_e_product_merchant_id=107896085&ds_e_product_country=IT&ds_e_product_language=it&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=20730495829&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrp-3BhDgARIsAEWJ6SyzNfYsneAe8fuMjxAc3XjnHk8INaqQfh6Rv3sk8xUjxEGkCca7L-saAulcEALw_wcB#nav-review

I was looking at the tests on this Wemon T31 120W soldering station, it says that it is undersized and is only suitable for SMD soldering, but how is it possible that a 120w station is undersized, if the C245 tip only reaches 120w what is the point of using a more powerful power supply, for example the AIXUN T3A or AIXUN T320 or the new AIXUN T413 have a 200w power supply, at this point I believe that a more powerful power supply can keep the temperature high on the tip more constantly without letting it cool down:

https://youtu.be/GAjn6MKeBYI

[tatel]

I don't have any experience with 120W soldering stations. Perhaps they could be used with C245 tips. Some mod could be needed. However that 952 seems to have an STC micro and I don't think that's compatible with custom firmware. If STC and STM32 are pin compatible you could perhaps mod it. I know T12 stations with custom firmware could be made to work with C245 tips quite easily, again no experience on this. However there's not enough power to make the tip to works as hard as it could do with a mightier PSU.

Clone JBC tips are not recommended but I have no experience at all.

If that ksger-C245 has a STM32 it could be interesting.

If you get one of these C245 stations I would be interested in knowing about your experience and opinion.

[stretchyman]

Just get a SH Metcal.

Job done.

Nothing else compares.

J.

[thm_w]

I was looking at the tests on this Wemon T31 120W soldering station, it says that it is undersized and is only suitable for SMD soldering, but how is it possible that a 120w station is undersized, if the C245 tip only reaches 120w what is the point of using a more powerful power supply, for example the AIXUN T3A or AIXUN T320 or the new AIXUN T413 have a 200w power supply, at this point I believe that a more powerful power supply can keep the temperature high on the tip more constantly without letting it cool down:

https://youtu.be/GAjn6MKeBYI

Its not 120W if you watch the SDG video, it peaked at 60W or something. Fine for T115 and T210, but a bit low for T245.
Still usable though.

[marck120]

@tatel

Unfortunately I have no experience either, I was referring to soldering stations built to work with C245 tips, the KSGER is only compatible with C245 tips from what I understand, and has a 180w power supply, the 982-I has a 120w power supply, but is compatible with C210, C245 tips, on the KSGER I found few reviews about it, the 982-I seems to be a more tested station, the KSGER's 180w power supply, since it is more powerful, I think it is more suitable for jobs that require more power.

I wanted to say this, the C245 tip always has 120w, but used on soldering stations with more powerful power supplies it has greater performance.

https://youtu.be/Wbf2Odz6MxU

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ksger-c245-soldering-station-psu-220v-only/

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/solder-station-new-model-yihua-948db-ii/

As I was saying the price of the tips is an important factor, an original JBC 2C45 tip costs 35€- 40€, on AliExpress it is around 25€

https://www.cepeitalia.it/wec/jbc-punta-saldante-c245-931-a-cucchiaino-27-mm/442af9b210d6eb42e74a97ac852afd00/scheda_articolo/?forcelang=it#main

https://www.amazon.it/JBC-ricambio-saldatrice-T245-C245-903/dp/B00KABRA0W

https://www.conrad.it/it/p/jbc-tools-punta-di-saldatura-forma-a-punta-dimensione-punta-1-mm-contenuto-1-pz-1712448.html?source=googleps&utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping-feed&utm_content=free-google-shopping-clicks&utm_term=1712448&refresh=true

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005876617834.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.364f1f751dAqpQ&algo_pvid=fd8b8bae-07c2-41f1-854e-52ae831d6f3d&algo_exp_id=fd8b8bae-07c2-41f1-854e-52ae831d6f3d-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2138.17%2117.26%21%21%2141.35%2118.70%21%40210385db17265366486016955e2f65%2112000034668211526%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=7MvWuCLiH62F&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Too bad that most of the soldering stations are not available on Amazon, Aliexpress apart from the quite long delivery times I think it does not have the guarantee and the Amazon return system, the only T12 station shipped by Amazon that I had found is the 948DB+ 75w that I had shown you.

@stretchyman

The Metcal stations are very expensive, I did not understand which model you are referring to exactly, at most I could spend €120 which is already a lot.

@thm_w

I can't understand, why did it only reach a peak of 60W ? I don't think there is an official website, shouldn't it have a 120w power supply ? It says peak power 120w, at least that's what the specifications on Aliexpress say, it should have the same power supply as the GVM H3 which is 80w

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006393604934.html

[stretchyman]

SH =Second Hand.

MX500 is my fave.

I have 3 and paid no more than £150 for any of them with irons and bits.

Utterly pointless messing around with all the cheap rubbish. No professional or company uses anything else.

Best iron ever, simple as.

J.

[tatel]

As I was saying the price of the tips is an important factor, an original JBC 2C45 tip costs 35€- 40€, on AliExpress it is around 25€

If that's the price difference, I would get originals. Perhaps also just one clone to compare it against the original.

I very much doubt you could get a 120W soldering station with original JBC tip(s) for €120 or less. Anything else would be a gamble I think.

If you really need more than a T12, I would look at Weller and JBC stations. Do you really need more than a T12? I don't think so, at least not right now.

Sorry, but it is what it is.

[marck120]

@stretchyman

Is this the MX500 soldering station you have ?

https://store.metcal.com/en-us/shop/soldering-desoldering/soldering-desoldering-systems/mx-series/MX-500P

I imagine you bought them used, new they cost over €600

Unfortunately I can't afford a professional device, for hobby use it would also be useless to spend so much money.

I understand that it is not possible to find a quality device at a low cost, but even with an investment of €100-120 you cannot find a quality product, I'm not talking about buying a professional device but at least some soldering station built with quality components that do not come from China.

@tatel

Yes indeed, to start you could buy just one C245 clone tip to test its quality, yes the price difference between a clone tip and the original is not huge.

But even excluding the original JBC tips, all the soldering stations for C245 120w tips are the various Chinese-made clones, the only original C245 soldering stations are the JBC ones, but I do not take them into consideration because of the high price, the only Weller at the lowest price is the WE1010NA as well as the hakko fx-888d, but both do not use cartridge tips.

In reality, the T12 tips are also enough for me, but even in this case the same thing applies as before, so far I have only seen low-quality Chinese T12 soldering stations, the only original hakko station that uses T12 tips seems to me to be the HAKKO FX-951

Ultimately the various T12 80w and C245 120w stations are clones of Hakko and JBC and consequently they are all Chinese-made stations.

All the main T12 clones are Aixun, Quicko, KSGER, Yihua, AIFEN, Bakon, GEEBOON, SUGON, the same thing applies to the C245 stations, the brands are the same, the only difference is only in the price of the tips.

The choice always falls between these brands, perhaps the most reliable are Aixun and Yihua ? AIFEN and SUGON are the same brand I think.

[stretchyman]

Think I mentioned they were SH, or perhaps I was being too subtle??

I know they were £800 new and used to joke my soldering iron was worth more than my car. Ha ha ha...

Look, if you want a good soldering iron then buy the best.

I have the older MX500's with the 2 connections are vertically stacked.

There seems to be an enormous amount of 'overthinking' here?

Its a very simple choice.

Every company I've ever worked for (30+) all used Metcals.

I just dont know why you would use anything else?

J.

Like this;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305601286383?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=v2sFsq9BSea&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=2WIdMalNRd2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[marck120]

@stretchyman

Thank you for the advice, I actually didn't want to buy used products, I wouldn't have any guarantee, I don't know how long they worked, how they were treated, in fact it's a risk to buy even on Aliexpress, in fact the ideal would be to buy on Amazon.

I'm happy with a less professional product but built in a simple and robust way with few components, the soldering stations with the linear transformer for me remain the most resistant, obviously only soldering stations compatible with JBC C245 or HAKKO T12 handles, the stations with proprietary handles are to be discarded.

Just as an example I mention some stations with linear transformer:

GVM H3, WEMON T31, AiXun T413, STP 920, RF4 RF-ONE, Toor T12-X, LEISTO T12-X, SUGON T26D, i2C 2SCNi, I2C PDK1200, WEP 982D, AIXUN T420D, Quick TS1200A, Best BST-933B, Jabe UD-1200, JBC BT-2BWA

After some research on the forum I understood that most of the stations with switching power supply have problems with voltage drops and grounding, not all of them obviously:


New Yihua soldering station with T12 tips!? - Page 1
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/new-yihua-soldering-station-with-t12-tips!/

Solder Station New Model: YIHUA 948DB+ II - Page 1
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/solder-station-new-model-yihua-948db-ii/

Good quality chineese soldering station - Page 1
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/good-quality-chineese-soldering-station/

Any opinions on the Aixun T420D? - Page 1
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/any-opinions-on-the-aixun-t420d/

Hi guys! Im looking for new soldering station im at middle of aifen a9 pro vs aixun t320.Can anyone help me to choose or suggest me a soldering iron 100$-230$.Thanks! : r/soldering
https://www.reddit.com/r/soldering/comments/1egzjww/hi_guys_im_looking_for_new_soldering_station_im/

Jabe UD-1200 vs AIXUN T3A vs others? : r/soldering
https://www.reddit.com/r/soldering/comments/114uovo/jabe_ud1200_vs_aixun_t3a_vs_others/

New Aixun T320 - Any opinions on it? (with inside pics) - Page 1
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/new-aixun-t320-any-opinions-on-it-(with-inside-pics)/

Aifen A9 - is it safe? - Page 1
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/aife-a9-is-it-safe/

Soldering Station that's not crap? ("advanced hobby" use) - Page 1
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/soldering-station-thats-not-crap-(advanced-hobby-use)/

Any opinions on the AiXun T3A? - Page 7
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/any-opinions-on-the-aixun-t3a/150/

Jabe UD-1200 Soldering station nice JBC clone - Page 1
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/jabe-ud-1200-soldering-station-nice-jbc-clone/


I don't know if these voltage drops and grounding are a big problem, because in this case the main soldering stations with switching power supply always remain the hakko t12 and c245 clones:

C245

Aixun T320, AIFEN A9 Plus, Aifen-A3, Sugon t21, KSGER C245, Silverflo 982-I

T12

YIHUA 948DB +-II, Preciva 948DB+ II, AIFEN A8, quicko t12-958, OSS T12-X PLUS, GEEBOON TC20A, Aixun T3A, KSGER T12

[stretchyman]

Good luck.

We have very different methods.

I'll leave you to the 'overthinking'

Regards.

J.

[marck120]

Good luck.

We have very different methods.

I'll leave you to the 'overthinking'

Regards.

J.

Of course, we have different points of view, I like to evaluate well before buying, they are not excessive thoughts, I thank you for your help and availability, I greet you and wish you a good evening. See you soon.

[armandine2]

Good luck.

We have very different methods.

I'll leave you to the 'overthinking'

Regards.

J.

lead horses to water = no drinks for the horses

... simple and resistant, if that is worth a thesis you'll need to overthink it some more

[marck120]

Good luck.

We have very different methods.

I'll leave you to the 'overthinking'

Regards.

J.

lead horses to water = no drinks for the horses

... simple and resistant, if that is worth a thesis you'll need to overthink it some more

Drinks for horses are few but there are.

Of course it is a thesis, maybe you did not understand what I mean by simple and resistant, simple I mean with little electronics.

Analog controller + Linear transformer = almost zero risk of failure.

[shabaz]

Hi,

That's not true by any stretch; there are still a lot of electronics inside soldering stations such as the one in your photo; they have amplifiers and MOSFET switching to measure and control the temperature, and those parts can fail.

You could go very retro and buy a soldering iron with zero electronics and just a heater element, and even then, the element can (and does) fail.

I think expecting to buy a low-cost soldering station such as the ones that you have listed, which have no track record of operating for many years of service because most of them have not been around for more than a few years; it is unrealistic to expect them to work for more than five years or so, at a guess. For instance, take apart the iron handle and compare and contrast it with a normal-brand iron handle. You'll notice the contacts are not as good, and they will eventually fail (as will the normal brand ones; they won't last forever, either).

Even if the lower-cost soldering stations you listed work for five years, it is still quite good value for money if you spend just sub-100 euros as you wish and if the performance was good for those years. Any longer operation is a bonus, but I don't think you should rely on that. I have a KSGER all-in-one soldering iron for portable use, I really like it, I don't regret its purchase, but I don't expect it to last a decade.

In contrast, around 2014, I purchased an old, low-cost, used JBC soldering station from eBay with an LCD screen, so certainly not "analog" as you mention; it has a microcontroller inside, and it functioned well for another decade for me, and I still have spares that I can use (if I don't get around to repairing it; I have a new soldering station now, so less incentive to do that). And there are various repair threads on it, so I won't be trailblazing if I wish to repair it.

Summary: your assumptions seem off the mark, and you're expecting too much from the investment. And you are indeed over-thinking it, as others mention.

[marck120]

@shabaz

Hello

Yes of course, a soldering station with zero electronics does not exist, I never said that inside the soldering station in the photo there are no electronic components, I just want to say that the risk of failure is much lower unlike sophisticated soldering stations with LCD screens and switching power supplies built with low quality components, of course even a linear power supply fails, their internal copper windings sometimes touch together and short circuit.

What are the low cost soldering stations in the list ? Which models are you referring to ? Some are also expensive, yes this is true, some models have been on the market for a few years but other soldering stations in the list have been built for a long time, just because it is built recently does not mean that it will break down immediately.

Nothing is eternal, I do not want to expect impossible things, I just want to avoid buying a soldering station that will last me a few months, 5 years of life seems little to me anyway, I do not want to give stupid examples but my television is 10 years old and still works well.

Obviously from a 50€ soldering station I don't expect it to last like a 200€ station, if I spend 150€ minimum I expect it to last more than 10 years, yes undoubtedly the ksger and quicko have a good quality-price ratio.

Anyway in the end my idea is the same as yours, the ksger and quicko stations have the good thing that on Aliexpress there are many spare parts, you can find power supplies, LED controllers, stylus at a low cost, for this reason every time a part breaks I could replace it and I would always have the soldering station working, but I don't understand if all the controllers and switching power supplies are compatible with each other ?








From what I understand you recommend a ksger and the quicko ? Regarding the stations in the list with linear power supply what do you think, are they all to be discarded ?

I was thinking of taking this one too since it is shipped by Amazon, in the end it is the same as a ksger or a quicko, what do you think ?

https://www.amazon.it/Preciva-preimpostati-visualizzazione-Termostatica-Intelligente/dp/B0CB3VS9JD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa


I'm not thinking too much, there are many options to evaluate, it takes time and it's not easy to make a decision.

[shabaz]

I have not used the one you refer to, but there are 41 user reviews on that website to help.

It costs 50 euro, and if it lasts you several years, that's less than the cost of a pizza per year, and if you're happy with the reviews,  then I think you can't expect much more for the investment.

Me, I would not make that same decision, but I have used soldering stations long enough to know more precisely what my personal needs are; the mix of price-performance that others may want will be different to yours.

You need to make your own decision of course, I'm merely pointing out that there's a good chance it's only a decision that will be relevant for a few years anyway.

[marck120]

@shabaz

Yes I read the reviews on Amazon, they almost all seem positive, yes certainly if it lasts 5 years it is 10 € each year, the cost of a pizza as you rightly said.

My reasoning was this, the soldering station is composed of three parts mainly, controller, power supply and stylus, as I said the ksger and the quicko have the advantage that the spare parts are easily available, for example if a power supply breaks it costs 15 euros, so by replacing the power supply the soldering station lasts me another three years for example, my PC for example is already 11 years old, recently I replaced the power supply the ram and the ssd and I can still use it, I was wondering if I can do the same with the ksger or quicko ? With other soldering stations it is more difficult to do this job because the spare parts are difficult to find, in fact as a supplement I was thinking of buying a kit on Aliexpress, so I would have the spare parts ready, but as I said you have to see if they are compatible, I saw that power supplies and controllers have different connectors and pins.

But what decision would you make ? I am aware that they gave me a lot of advice but your opinion is also important.

Yes of course the final decision is up to me, yes if I spend 50 euros for 5 years it will be fine, I hoped to be calm for at least 10 years but if it is not possible, patience, in fact I was aiming for a soldering station with a linear power supply with the hope that it would last longer.

[shabaz]

Hi,

When I was younger, I purchased a simple soldering iron with an in-built temperature control in the handle. I used it for about 6 years. I still have it somewhere; it still works, but my needs changed after that period, so it made sense to buy a new soldering iron, regardless of whether the old one still worked.

Ten years ago, when I couldn't justify spending a lot, my decision was to buy a used JBC soldering station from eBay, and it lasted 10 years. Today, I was able to justify buying a new JBC station, and I needed it for the very wide range of soldering tips (I require ultra-fine tips, as well as large tips). I also needed a portable soldering iron, so I bought a cheaper KSGER tool, fully aware that I'd be lucky if it functioned for a few years.

Your needs will also change; it's very unlikely you will want to continue using that soldering station for 10 years.

EDIT: I tried reading the translation, I can't tell if there are more tip choices. The tips selection visible in the photo looks pretty bad (to me anyway). That alone would be good reason to consider something else, if it were me. But maybe you're OK with those tips (e.g. if all you plan to use is the chisel tip with through-hole parts for instance, then it may be fine).

[marck120]

Hi,

Yes I understand, in ten years there will also be more performing soldering stations, I don't have any particular needs, I just need some thin tips to solder on the Arduino, in the end the soldering station is a basic tool let's say, it only has to melt the tin, even if over the years the stations have evolved, the current technology of the T12 for me is more than enough even if then maybe I regret it since the C245 are definitely more advanced, maybe in 5 years the T12 will become obsolete, this doesn't mean anything obviously, many people today use the 900M and are happy with them.

My minimum goal however remains 50 euros = 5 years, otherwise I prefer to get to 150 euros but as long as the station lasts much longer, as I said I don't have any particular needs, duration is more important, at least on Amazon I should have a 2 year warranty, on Aliexpress I don't even know if the warranty exists.

Anyway if you have identified some interesting soldering station let me know, even among those with the linear power supply that I listed.

You were very kind, thank you for the advice.

[shabaz]

I don't have any particular needs, I just need some thin tips to solder on the Arduino

I see.. in that case, an all-in-one soldering iron should easily meet your needs, it will be about 50 euro, and will most likely last at least 5 years, and is more than adequate for through-hole work with an Arduino.

Couple of examples are in the screenshot. The Antex one is available in Italy and has an excellent track record of lasting a long time (it has been in production for decades, any issues are ironed out), and it comes with a stand, and a very "normal" bevel soldering tip, which will suit you much better than the default conical that comes with other soldering irons. Plus it is earthed by default, unlike some of the low-cost soldering stations.

Even if your needs change after 5 years, you will be able to use this as a backup iron.

EDIT: Cheaper on Amazon, although I cannot tell if there is a stand with that.

[marck120]

EDIT: I tried reading the translation, I can't tell if there are more tip choices. The tips selection visible in the photo looks pretty bad (to me anyway). That alone would be good reason to consider something else, if it were me. But maybe you're OK with those tips (e.g. if all you plan to use is the chisel tip with through-hole parts for instance, then it may be fine).

Sorry, I just read what you wrote, are you referring to the set of tips for the soldering station on Amazon ? It seems there are only two tips supplied, the fine one and the chisel one, moreover the soldering station only has 75w, will they be enough, the same identical station obviously also exists in the C245 version and has 120w.

[shabaz]

are you referring to the set of tips for the soldering station on Amazon ?

Yes, it looked very limiting from the photo. If there is a C245 version then the tip choice will be much better, but beware that there's no guarantee it will even last five years; the handles are of lower quality internally compared to real JBC handles, plus, there's quite a lot of electronics to go wrong (even with a linear supply, the JBC system uses a lot of electronics inside, and a lower-cost clone is unlikely to have the same reliability). If 5-10 year operation is important to you, then there's less chance of that with a JBC clone, compared to the simple all-in-one irons such as the Antex one.

[marck120]

The problem is that they are not adjustable, yes currently I have to solder on the Arduino but if I then need more power for other more general jobs I find myself with a not very powerful stylus, better that it has adjustable temperature.

https://www.cselettronica.net/elettronica/saldatura/attrezzature-saldante/jbc/30st-saldatore-stilo-230v-25w-con-punta-r-10d.1.1.1152.gp.23183.uw

https://www.amazon.it/Antex-S582470-ANTXS25-Ferro-saldare/dp/B00862W052/ref=sr_1_1

In my second post they are all in the list:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/soldering-station-simple-and-resistant/msg5634317/#msg5634317

The C245 version is this, the station basically looks the same:



https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005943750062.html

But the handle can be easily replaced I think, all JBC handles should be compatible, yes unfortunately the JBC clone tips are of low quality :

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006173325032.html

I also report the list of soldering stations with linear transformer, it is just to have a small list, many are to be discarded:

GVM H3, WEMON T31, AiXun T413, STP 920, RF4 RF-ONE, Toor T12-X, LEISTO T12-X, SUGON T26D, SUGON T36, i2C 2SCNi, I2C PDK1200, WEP 982D, Aixun T435, AIXUN T420D, Quick TS1200A, Best BST-933B, Jabe UD-1200, JBC BT-2BWA, Mechanic MA-SD01

https://www.unionrepair.com/soldering-iron-station/

[JohanH]

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006173325032.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.739853f9HJLYXB&algo_pvid=9879d5ae-ffc1-4617-a4b7-a669a5db0614&algo_exp_id=9879d5ae-ffc1-4617-a4b7-a669a5db0614-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%219.61%211.35%21%21%2110.47%211.47%21%40211b8f9a17268180267726237ed079%2112000036117891429%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=l5WJhyVRJx70&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Please, when posting links to web sites, leave out the tracking information after the question mark (?). So the above link would become:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006173325032.html

It saves space in forum posts (easier to read) and makes a cleaner Internet without all the tracking. Note. Sometimes the information after the question mark is needed to open a web page correctly, but most often it's only tracking information or similar and can be left out.

[marck120]

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006173325032.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.739853f9HJLYXB&algo_pvid=9879d5ae-ffc1-4617-a4b7-a669a5db0614&algo_exp_id=9879d5ae-ffc1-4617-a4b7-a669a5db0614-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%219.61%211.35%21%21%2110.47%211.47%21%40211b8f9a17268180267726237ed079%2112000036117891429%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=l5WJhyVRJx70&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Please, when posting links to web sites, leave out the tracking information after the question mark (?). So the above link would become:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006173325032.html

It saves space in forum posts (easier to read) and makes a cleaner Internet without all the tracking. Note. Sometimes the information after the question mark is needed to open a web page correctly, but most often it's only tracking information or similar and can be left out.

Thanks for the correction, I totally agree, in fact I didn't like these very long links either, I couldn't find the solution, I hadn't thought of copying only the link before the question mark, it was my mistake. Thanks.

[tatel]

As I see it, you fear cheap chinese stuff won't last for even five years, even for non-intensive use, based on I don't know what kind of data, probably just western China haters hearsay. Also, you are not willing to spend the bigger amount of money needed to buy the better, overkill for your needs, western stuff available, neither used nor new.

Well, I really hope you don't behave the same way when it's time to put a preservative in place. Just saying.

Sorry to be blunt, but you are wasting both your time and ours looking for the holy grail. What you are looking for doesn't exist, period. You are not going to get a new JBC/Metcal, etc, at the price of a Quicko/Ksger

All the possible, well-known, viable options have been already given to you, yet you continue to putting yourself into that self-made conundrum.

The way to solve that conundrum would be to read that 169 pages long thread about custom firmware. It started in March, 14, 2018, so more than 6 years ago. That's more than the five years you would want your prospective Ksger/Quicko to last. Then you would have a good idea about how long these stations last. That wouldn't be hearsay but fact-based user reports. Quick answer: very few people reported his cheap chinese soldering station ceased to work, particularly if they got a top-chinese-tier one. Like that Quicko 958. Of course chinese quality control isn't that good and you could have bad luck. But probability is really on your side, and what you do expect for 50 €?  I know, you want your cheap station to be like a 600 € one. It wont happen, man.

Of course reading 169 pages would be a big waste of time when you have been already given the answers, not just about chinese cheap stuff, but also about expensive, better quality western stuff. You would be wasting only your own time, however, and that wouldn't be a so bad thing.

I have to say, worrying about if it could last more than five years, while saying you aren't going to use it intensively, is ludicrous, do you realize that? Thinking about getting a new JBC one, for that kind of work, while thinking it should cost about the same, is even more ludicrous.

Man, no matter if you choose the cheap or the expensive one, put that preservative in place and have fun.

Edit: typos

[marck120]

I'm sorry to tell you but you're saying things that aren't true, I never said that cheap Chinese stuff won't last even five years, I said that if I buy a 50 euro soldering station and it lasts me 5 years it's a good compromise.

But what do you mean by this sentence ? You're talking about putting a condom on me, I hope I didn't misunderstand.

"Well, I really hope you don't behave the same way when it's time to put a preservative in place. Just saying."

Here is another thing that is not true, I have never claimed to buy a JBC/Metcal at the price of a Quicko/Ksger, you do not care about my time, if you think you are wasting your time do not answer.

But who the hell told you that I claim that a 50€ station is identical to a 600€ one ? I have always said that my maximum budget is 120€, I can even go up to 150€, even at this figure I know very well that it will never be the same as a professional station.

Even if it is not used intensively it does not mean that it will last a long time, if a product is of low quality it can break even after a month, if I may say so if I invest 120 euros 150 euros the station must have a minimum of quality,

I have been given many solutions, I have never said the opposite, I understand that it is impossible to analyze all the soldering stations, and I do not complain, indeed I am satisfied with all the advice they have given me, in fact I did not ask other questions, lastly I had only asked if among the soldering stations on the list with the linear power supply there was any valid model

I accept advice and opinions from everyone but with the tone of your post it almost seems like you are scolding me with rather unfortunate comparisons citing "preservative" I did not understand well, I hope it is Google Translate's fault.

Greetings. I wish you many good things.

[tatel]

if you think you are wasting your time do not answer.

Yeah, exactly

[marck120]

if you think you are wasting your time do not answer.

Yeah, exactly

Good, keep it up.

[stretchyman]

I pity the person who sells him a car or anything for that matter.

Just to blow my own trumpet so to speak....

40+ years of soldering experience from using a crappy 12W Weller and having spent the last 20 years using a MX500.

Who cares how complex and over engineered it is, it doesn't make it unreliable. Simple does not necessarily mean good. Any iron needs thermal management which cheap ones wont provide.

The Metcals are an utter revelation in soldering.

Just take my advice and buy one.

Please save us all the agony of choosing for you.

J.

[tatel]

I pity the person who sells him a car or anything for that matter.

Yep... that would probably be like Project Manhattan

[marck120]

@stretchyman

Yes, I understand that the MX500 is a professional device and the best soldering iron that can be found on the market, I don't doubt it, but as I explained, new ones cost a lot and I had no intention of buying used products.

Yes, undoubtedly a simple device does not necessarily make it good but in principle it should be more resistant, yes of course a complex station does not mean that it is unreliable, I remain convinced that a soldering station with a linear transformer will last me longer, for example the Mechanic MA-SD01 and the Sugon T26 or the BEST BST-933B seem well built to me.

I am the one suffering the agony if anything.

Come on, it's better to close the discussion, yes obviously I will choose a soldering station, I will keep you updated.

Thanks for all the advice received.

[armandine2]

@stretchyman

Yes, I understand that the MX500 is a professional device and the best soldering iron that can be found on the market, I don't doubt it, but as I explained, new ones cost a lot and I had no intention of buying used products.

...this seems a bit peculiar - what have you got against secondhand soldering equipment?

[marck120]

@stretchyman

Yes, I understand that the MX500 is a professional device and the best soldering iron that can be found on the market, I don't doubt it, but as I explained, new ones cost a lot and I had no intention of buying used products.

...this seems a bit peculiar - what have you got against secondhand soldering equipment?

I have no warranty, I am referring to the two-year legal warranty, yes in the past on eBay I have already purchased used products and I have not had any problems, I prefer to buy the soldering station new. Good evening. See you soon.

[Shock]

Secondhand Metcal MX 500 if you have limited funds and want the cheapest but quality bang for buck. I was going to get the same but the Pace ADS 200 came out and I was already interested in Paces other handpieces.

A few years back I spent months looking. The T12 is dead end since the C245. If you are like me you'll never be happy with the Chinese compromises and quality. I was intending to run original tips then realised the handpieces aren't anywhere near Metcal (and now Pace) in terms of quality.

So it seemed pointless investing time in the T12 which is the least performing cart in the crappiest handpiece. Then considered the C245 but Metcal is cheaper to run genuine carts with arguably more reliable tips, a nicer handpiece at a better working distance as well as being genuine.

[marck120]

@Shock

Hi, thank you so much for the advice.

I've been doing research for three weeks now, no one rushes me and I enjoy doing research so I take it easy.

I'm not ruling out any option but I wanted to have a new product in my hands, yes unfortunately the budget is limited, they recommended a Metcal MX 500 on eBay, looking at them they seem quite used, I don't know how many years of work they have behind them, then if unfortunately it breaks what do I do, there is no guarantee and I am not capable of repairing it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305601286383

From what I understand however the metacal uses proprietary tips:

https://it.farnell.com/metcal/sttc-136/chisel-tip-30deg-2-4mm/dp/4950641

Look, for me too it's a crossroads between the T12 and the C245, my use is exclusively hobbyist, I'll do some welding every now and then, the only doubt is about the 80w watt power of the T12, if I spend €50 for a classic quicko t12-958 and it manages to give me 5 years of service I'm already satisfied, or a Silverflo 982-I C245 in the same price range, or an AIFEN A9E etc.. It should be remembered that the cost of the C245 tips is higher.

Yes I agree with you, the Chinese soldering stations are a compromise of quality, they will never reach the level of Metacal and Pace.

Instead, if I decide to increase the budget then I absolutely aim for a soldering station powered by a linear power supply, but I would have to increase the budget to about 180€

In your opinion is there any valid model among these stations ?

Aixun T435:

https://www.martview.com/aixun-t435-led-display-dual-channel-smart-soldering-station-for-mobile-phone-bga-repair.html

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006091246219.html

Jabe UD-1200 :

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/33040378742.html

Sugon T26D :

https://www.diyfixtool.com/products/sugon-t26-precision-lead-free-electric-soldering-station-repair-kit

https://www.unionrepair.com/sugon-t26d-precision-soldering-station-suitable-for-jbc-soldering-tip.html

GVM H3 3 :

https://it.aliexpress.com/i/1005006141462168.html

https://www.unionrepair.com/gvm-h3-3-in-1-smart-soldering-station.html

i2c PDK1200 :

https://www.unionrepair.com/i2c-pdk1200-precision-soldering-station.html?variation_id=20036

WEMON T31 :

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006393604934.html

AIXUN T413 :

https://www.diyfixtool.com/products/aixun-t413-integrated-soldering-station-with-t245-t225-handle

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007478867632.html

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007500598444.html

WEP 982D :

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006402871100.html

LEISTO T12-X :

https://it.aliexpress.com/i/32871902459.html

https://www.diyfixtool.com/products/toor-t12-x-lead-free-soldering-stations-upgrade-leisto-t12-11

TooR T12-X :

https://www.unionrepair.com/toor-t12-11-75w-digital-lead-free-precision-soldering-station.html

[tooki]

On the durability of irons, I recommend you go wood fired.

https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=21013

These would normally be used with a propane torch, not a wood fire.

Modern versions are typically mounted directly to the torch itself, for continuous heating.

These last even if they are not very practical to use, but if they sell them someone uses them, I have an old soldering iron and it has a copper tip, after 20 years it still works, obviously it has no temperature regulation.

Well, they don’t sell them anymore: that page clearly lists the product as “discontinued by the manufacturer”, so I guess nobody was buying them anymore.

But newer types of big irons like that are still widely used, just not for electronics. They’re for sheet metal work, like making copper roofs.

[tooki]

Thank you for the advice, I actually didn't want to buy used products, I wouldn't have any guarantee, I don't know how long they worked, how they were treated, in fact it's a risk to buy even on Aliexpress, in fact the ideal would be to buy on Amazon.

I think you should really reconsider your stance against used equipment.

The Chinese stuff is an unknown, even if it’s durable: one brand that’s become kinda popular is terribly designed and can result in significant voltages at the tip, able to damage circuits. You don’t run into that kind of fundamental problem with the big brands.

It’s extremely rare for big brand soldering stations to fail, even after decades of use. They are well designed and built with good parts, so they just go on. The parts that wear out are the tips, which are consumables. (With desoldering stations, there’s a lot more to go wrong because of the mechanical components. But the big brands are quite good about spare parts, so you can often fix them inexpensively.)

I’d much rather have a piece of professional equipment than a piece of junk.

Some years ago, I bought a used Pace desoldering station, because the cheap Chinese ones aren’t as good. It took some patience for one to come up for sale, but I got a model that you could still buy new for about €1100, but I got mine for €115 shipped. Another €5 in parts and it is good as new. (It turns out the unit was almost 15 years old when I got it, but it was in great shape and just needed a new rubber seal, since that seal is in contact with the heater and eventually degrades.)

JBC irons are great, and I’d much sooner spend the money on a used JBC than a brand new clone.

Of course it is a thesis, maybe you did not understand what I mean by simple and resistant, simple I mean with little electronics.

Analog controller + Linear transformer = almost zero risk of failure.

I’ll point out that despite using a potentiometer to set the temperature, those do not use an analog controller. Like most soldering stations made since the 1990s, it uses microcontroller control. It just doesn’t have a display.

That wouldn’t stop me from buying a used one of those. At the first place I worked doing electronics, they had a ton of old JBCs similar to the one in the picture, and they work great. They’d upgraded them to the T245 handles at some point (they originally came with the older 2045 handle, for which tips are no longer made). I actually prefer those to the models with displays, because setting the temperature is easier with the knob.

I'm not ruling out any option but I wanted to have a new product in my hands, yes unfortunately the budget is limited, they recommended a Metcal MX 500 on eBay, looking at them they seem quite used, I don't know how many years of work they have behind them, then if unfortunately it breaks what do I do, there is no guarantee and I am not capable of repairing it.

The chances of a used big brand soldering station dying within 5 years is extremely low.

From what I understand however the metacal uses proprietary tips:

Every big brand of soldering station uses proprietary tips, in that no one ever designed an “industry standard” tip style. Every big brand designs its tips for its handles used in its stations.


The Chinese have cloned Hakko and JBC style tips, but since they are of often low quality, you don’t want to use those anyway. They’re still clones of proprietary designs. (Or derivatives, in the case of tips that look like Hakko or JBC, but are not compatible with them.)

[ferdieCX]

Hello
If you look for a simple soldering iron, I would recommend the Ersa 30. I bought mine in 1971 and it is still working.
The tip is quite big, so it is only for through hole components.
The Ersa Analog 60 is a true analog station and the tips for the Ersa stations are relatively inexpensive.

[marck120]

@Tooki

Thanks for all the explanations you have given me, very kind.

Actually I am not against used equipment, I have already purchased used products on eBay, it has nothing to do with soldering stations but several years ago I had purchased two Philips HD RECORDER DVDs, however they were in excellent condition, almost like new.

I really thought the JBC in the photo was analog, I was wrong, I attributed the meaning of "analog" to the fact that it did not have a display, thanks for the clarification.

The JBC in the photo looks like an old soldering station but it is of new design, it is compatible with C245 tips, I liked it a lot but it exceeds the budget otherwise I would have bought it, I have not checked if it is also available used, there is also the same model with the display but it costs more, however I found it here for sale:

https://eleshop.eu/jbc-bt-2bqa-soldering-station.html

At the moment on eBay I have only found this CD2BQE CD-2BQE T245, the price is very good:

https://www.ebay.it/itm/186694695927

Yes I am aware of all the grounding problems on Chinese clones, apparently some models have been updated, they have simply added a grounding cable, the soldering stations with linear transformer from what I understand do not suffer from this problem, they are very resistant, an Italian youtuber has an electronics shop and repairs televisions professionally, I have been following his videos for years and he always uses a ZD-931.

With my budget however you would not buy any new soldering station ?

[shabaz]

Really wise words there from @tooki and others.

With your revised 180 euro budget, I still would first strongly consider a used product.

I've got nothing against Chinese products, but for soldering irons for electronics design work, there are at least certain expectations that need to be very high; reliability, and earthed tip. Some of the clones will fail on the latter, and many on the former.

The clone handles are not the same incidentally (you mentioned it earlier), because the connectors are different, and internally, the contacts are not well formed. So that is almost guaranteed to fail, and in some cases might damage the station if the handle failure is catastrophic. Plus, there's a lot of plastic in some of the clones; the new clone soldering station will look ugly after some use, and will have almost zero resale value (in contrast, you could sell a broken genuine station and still find buyers willing to repair them).

If a used station doesn't meet it's description, eBay will refund you the money. If there is a fault, you'll likely notice it within a day or two. If there isn't an initial fault, then the chances are high that your used soldering station will provide you with good service for many years (more than five! and will be repairable even if the unexpected happens).

I looked at the eBay Italy website, it was hard for me to use it, but I couldn't see any decent used soldering stations, but your budget is now reasonable (180 euro), I think if you keep an eye out on ebay, you should be able to find something within a few weeks (or expand the search to EU if the shipping cost is not too much). For instance (this is just an example) there's a Metcal soldering station in the UK, you could make an offer (but I don't advise it unless you're absolutely sure of any potential customs fees; better to stick to EU).

EDIT: Just saw your Eleshop link to the soldering station (without tip) for 215 euro.. that's a great bargain! I would have bought that myself if I didn't already have a soldering station. Sure the genuine JBC tip may cost you 30-40 euro (I have not checked, this is a ballpark) but a single tip will serve you well for the soldering situations you will most likely experience; the JBC system (and also other good mnfr systems) will be able to deliver the heat to make joins even if the tip size is not what would normally be used.  If it were me, I'd order that, it looks great.

If you need a tip order code recommendation, I'm sure I (and others) can provide that, so that you will be happy with a single tip for now.

EDIT 2: By the way, just a personal opinion, I don't think it's good to ever insert a clone tip inside a genuine handle; the tolerances won't be the same (electrically and physically) and it's not a risk worth taking if it could damage the genuine handle and genuine station.

Added a screenshot of a possible candidate soldering tip. I think something like C245-905 would be better, but that store doesn't have such a wide selection. The one in the screenshot is a bit on the small side, but better that than too large. I'm confident the one in the screenshot would still be usable even when soldering the occasional mid-sized connectors (e.g. 3.5 mm audio, RCA/Phono and so on, even if not optimal). I think that tip is a reasonable one to consider, others may have better suggestions.

[marck120]

Hello
If you look for a simple soldering iron, I would recommend the Ersa 30. I bought mine in 1971 and it is still working.
The tip is quite big, so it is only for through hole components.
The Ersa Analog 60 is a true analog station and the tips for the Ersa stations are relatively inexpensive.

Hi,

I wanted to choose a soldering station with cartridge tips, either T12 or C245, otherwise there are many stations with 900M style tips, there are many models.

The Ersa Analog 60 is around 200€, I didn't want to spend that amount:

https://www.reichelt.com/it/it/shop/prodotto/stazione_di_saldatura_analog_60_60_w_1_canale-4338

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-Saldatore-ERSA-Volt-Watt/dp/B000NI4PIM

Yes, I had seen the Ersa 30 on Amazon, there should also be the finest tip, without regulation I don't know what temperature the tip usually reaches, I'm afraid that too much heat will burn some component.

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-Saldatore-ERSA-Volt-Watt/dp/B000NI4PIM

[shabaz]

(Just modified my comment above; that 215 euro offer looks excellent).

[tooki]

The JBC in the photo looks like an old soldering station but it is of new design

I did not say the one in the picture is old.

I said that where I used to work, we had very old ones similar to the one in the picture. That’s because JBC basically kept the same design around for many, many years. The one in the picture is not a “new design”, it’s an old design they still sell. (sorta? JBC does not list it on the website anymore. But a few resellers still have them.)

it is compatible with C245 tips

Um, obviously. Given that old versions were C245 compatible, it stands to reason the current version does. 

it iI liked it a lot but it exceeds the budget otherwise I would have bought it, I have not checked if it is also available used, there is also the same model with the display but it costs more, however I found it here for sale:

https://eleshop.eu/jbc-bt-2bqa-soldering-station.html

That is an excellent price for it.

For comparison, here’s an old, used one on eBay for only a little bit less:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/315744365819

(That station model is one of the ones I used in the past, so I know it’s C245 compatible, but I can’t tell from the picture what handles it comes with.)

For that small difference in price I’d definitely buy the new one.

At the moment on eBay I have only found this CD2BQE CD-2BQE T245, the price is very good:

https://www.ebay.it/itm/186694695927

Did you not read the description? That one is so cheap because it doesn’t work.

Yes I am aware of all the grounding problems on Chinese clones

No, I don’t think you are.

apparently some models have been updated, they have simply added a grounding cable

The models I’m thinking of do far, far worse: when the tip is grounded, they lose temperature regulation.

the soldering stations with linear transformer from what I understand do not suffer from this problem

As a general rule, that is true. Transformer-based units don’t seem to be as problematic as ones with switching supplies. (Which is probably the reason why all the big manufacturers use transformers for all, or nearly all, of their station models.)

they are very resistant

Resistant to what?!?

Do you mean “reliable”? (Resistant does not mean the same thing.)

an Italian youtuber has an electronics shop and repairs televisions professionally, I have been following his videos for years and he always uses a ZD-931.

Ok. What is your point?

That’s an inexpensive station that is adequate for many things. It just won’t have the performance of the cartridge heater systems.

With my budget however you would not buy any new soldering station ?

Well, at the usual price of new JBC stations, I indeed would normally recommend a used one instead of a Chinese clone.

But that price that you found on the new JBC at eleshop is fantastic. If I were in your position now, I’d save up a little longer (or skip a few visits to the bar or restaurant) and get the new JBC instead.


Another station you could consider, if you can find it for a similar price to that JBC, is the Ersa i-con nano. It’s not as powerful as the JBC, but is still really good, and the huge advantage over JBC is that the Ersa tips are FAR cheaper. The nano is what I have at home. At work, I have one of the “big” i-con stations, and I only notice the difference in power on REALLY heavy things, like soldering SMA connectors to a 4-layer PCB where you have to use a smallish tip because of nearby components. A used “big” i-con station would also be a good option, if the price is right.

[shabaz]

But that price that you found on the new JBC at eleshop is fantastic. If I were in your position now, I’d save up a little longer (or skip a few visits to the bar or restaurant) and get the new JBC instead.

It's incredible. If possible, it is worth taking that up quickly, in case it's a limited offer. That's a product that will continue to be a great instrument even after a decade. (and then you can possibly sell it for close to the price you're purchasing it for!).

EDIT: If you wish to save a little, then I have a spare (unused) C245-030 tip, which is non-ideal for general work (unless you prefer working with such conical tips; some people do, I find them more ideal only for specific tasks). It will certainly be fine for a while until you decide what tip you really want to buy. If you are buying a JBC station, then if you like, if you send me a shipping address via PM, I will post it (I don't know what your import charge will be, I will list it at $5 value since that's all it is likely worth, since I've had it for maybe 10 years but never got around to using it).

[marck120]

Thank you so much for the many tips you have given me.

I will answer both of you in one post.

Yes it is true, on eBay Italy there is not much choice, I have not found any decent soldering station either, I did not know that eBay refunded the money if the product does not match the description, yes I will keep eBay under observation to see if I find some interesting station.

It is true unfortunately the CD2BQE CD-2BQE T24 is not working, I did not realize, I had not read the description.

Some Chinese soldering stations should be compatible with the original JBC handles.

Regarding the JBC BT-2BQA on Eleshop it is 215 euros excluding VAT, you have to calculate how much it costs including VAT.

Yes the C245-905 tip on the shop you indicated to me is true that it costs 28 euros but since it is original it should last for a long time.

I would have found this one too but I don't think the photos are authentic, it could also be a scam, it seems too new to me:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/356058369141

I realized now that $159.59 is just the cost of the handle.

Regarding the grounding problem I am referring to the loss of voltage, it was also reported by user tony359 on his Aixun T3A, I think the same problem is also present on the other Aixun models with switching, on ksger it is a known problem but I think they solved it by adding a ground wire, but the problem reported by tony359 I don't think is actually caused by the grounding.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/aixun-t3a-misbehaving-on-grounded-pcbs/

I forgot, regarding the ZD-931 I wanted to say that this youtuber has been using it for many years and it still works, resistant in the sense that it resists, it doesn't break, yes obviously it doesn't have the performance of cartridge heating systems, I didn't mean to say that.

Regarding the new Ersa i-con nano it costs 217 euros, now I should also check carefully on eBay if there is any used model.

https://it.farnell.com/ersa/0ic1305/stazione-saldatura-80w-230vac/dp/4246944

https://www.reichelt.com/it/it/shop/prodotto/stazione_di_saldatura_ersa_i-con_pico_mk2_68_w_1_canale-357477#open-modal-shipping

EDIT:

I saw your C245-030 tip, thanks again I'm not sure if I'll buy the JBC station, the final price is also higher, in that case I'll let you know about the tip.

[ferdieCX]

Yes, I had seen the Ersa 30 on Amazon, there should also be the finest tip, without regulation I don't know what temperature the tip usually reaches, I'm afraid that too much heat will burn some component.

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-Saldatore-ERSA-Volt-Watt/dp/B000NI4PIM

There are two version of the Ersa 30S:
The 30W has a tip temperature of 380ºC  (this is the one I have)
The 40W has a tip temperature of 420ºC

[marck120]

Yes, I had seen the Ersa 30 on Amazon, there should also be the finest tip, without regulation I don't know what temperature the tip usually reaches, I'm afraid that too much heat will burn some component.

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-Saldatore-ERSA-Volt-Watt/dp/B000NI4PIM

There are two version of the Ersa 30S:
The 30W has a tip temperature of 380ºC  (this is the one I have)
The 40W has a tip temperature of 420ºC

So this is the model:

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-ERSA-LOETTECHNIK-330KD-Saldatore/dp/B0009QX1MY/ref=sr_1_1

This is the fine tip:

https://www.amazon.it/Ersa-032BD-Punta-per-saldare/dp/B000VD1C5S/ref=pd_bxgy_thbs_d_sccl_1/257-0431381-2241768

However 380° should not be excessive.

I see that it also exists in 25w, which should reach 360° :

https://www.amazon.it/SALDATORE-STILO-STAGNO-MULTITIP-PROFESSIONALE/dp/B07SFZH7NR/ref=sr_1_8

[ferdieCX]

Yes, there is also a fine point tip for the Ersa 30. I have never used it.
The Multitip C25 is another model of soldering iron, the tip temperature is 450 ºC. It uses another tip family

[marck120]

Yes, there is also a fine point tip for the Ersa 30. I have never used it.
The Multitip C25 is another model of soldering iron, the tip temperature is 450 ºC. It uses another tip family

It should be this: https://www.conrad.it/it/p/ersa-multitip-saldatore-230-v-25-w-stilo-450-c-max-810665.html

Excuse me, how come the Ersa 30 S 30w reaches 380° C and Multitip C25 with 25 w reaches 450 º C ? I thought that the temperature was proportional to the watts.

The watt regulation could also be adjusted with an external drimmer.

[tooki]

Excuse me, how come the Ersa 30 S 30w reaches 380° C and Multitip C25 with 25 w reaches 450 º C ? I thought that the temperature was proportional to the watts.

Temperature vs power is only proportional (more or less) when everything else is unchanged. But in those two irons, they’re clearly very different designs. The C25 has a much smaller mass to heat, and less surface area for heat to dissipate from, and uses smaller tips that won’t conduct as much heat.


Think of this wildly exaggerated example: suppose you have two heating elements for water. (Also assume that all tests start with the same temperature cold water, in the same ambient temperature and conditions.) One heating element is 300W, the other is 2000W. Which one will heat the water more? If you put them each into a 1 liter container, they will both boil the water, but the 2000W will clearly boil the water faster. But if we put the 300W one into a 1000 liter water tank, and the 2000W one into an Olympic size swimming pool (2.5 million liters), neither will boil, but the 300W one will eventually reach a steady state temperature that is much higher than the swimming pool.

[marck120]

@tooki

Perfect, you were very clear, as you explained to me the temperature varies based on the mass to be heated, in the tip with a smaller mass since the heat cannot disperse it will reach higher temperatures.

Anyway yesterday I noticed that the remote control of the ceiling fan did not work, after opening it I discovered that the negative cable of the battery was disconnected, the positive cable disconnected immediately after, this fact that happened made me think about the size of the tips that I will need, unfortunately from the photos and videos that I have seen online I do not realize the real size of the tips, since I was undecided between the T12 and C245 stations I thought that a soldering station that comes with both the C210 and C245 handles is more versatile, maybe even the smaller T12 tip could be fine, the size range of the JBC tips is this, C115, C210, C245, the C115 is just a needle so I will never need it.

I would not like to end up with a compatible station with a series of tips all too large to perform some soldering.

I attach the photos of the remote control printed circuit board, perhaps you can understand in general what size of tips I need.

[Shock]

There is some crossover in compatibility of RF tips between Metal and Thermaltronics (even Hakko) perhaps a guy running RF gear could advise better but I believe Thermaltronics tips were a cheaper option for basically the same performance on certain Metcal stations. Just not the MX5200 which is the 80W model.

There are also cheaper ways to get into a secondhand station than those "factory loved" ones. Have to keep an eye out for new listings, sometimes a handful of tips are included so can save hundreds. Others are after the same thing of course.

[marck120]

There is some crossover in compatibility of RF tips between Metal and Thermaltronics (even Hakko) perhaps a guy running RF gear could advise better but I believe Thermaltronics tips were a cheaper option for basically the same performance on certain Metcal stations. Just not the MX5200 which is the 80W model.

There are also cheaper ways to get into a secondhand station than those "factory loved" ones. Have to keep an eye out for new listings, sometimes a handful of tips are included so can save hundreds. Others are after the same thing of course.

Hi, thank you for the advice, obviously the RF remote control that I showed was only to show you the dimensions of the printed circuit board, I was only referring to the dimensions, because with a tip that is too big I would not be able to solder the two wires, the two pins where the cables are soldered are small and very close to each other, so I need something sharp, but I'm certainly not worried about anything, certainly any thin tip will do.

I don't know the Metal and Thermaltronics tips well, I should do some research, I was taking the JBC C115, C210, C245 and HAKKO T12 tips as a reference to see the dimensions and understand which ones might be more suitable, but I repeat that maybe I'm not worried about anything, maybe with any thin tip whether it's Metal, Thermaltronics, JBC or HAKKO I will be able to solder the cables on the two small pins of the printed circuit board, between the T12 and C245 tips in general I don't know if they are the same in size.

[marck120]

Do you think a setup like this could work ? The biggest doubt is about the controller.

DIY Soldering Panel for JBC C245 Soldering Station Replacement Handle Tips

https://www.ebay.it/itm/325594977073

Power Supply 24V 200W 8.3A

https://www.amazon.it/BRIMETI-Alimentatore-Trasformatore-Trasformatori-Alimentatoredi/dp/B0BRP3ZDJF/ref=sr_1_2_sspa

Rocker Switch

https://www.amazon.it/Heschen-Rocker-switch-terminali-250-VAC/dp/B073PWCJCP/ref=sr_1_1

Power Connector

https://www.amazon.it/CABLEPELADO-Connettore-alimentazione-Collegamento-saldatura/dp/B074PS1L3V/ref=pd_lpo_sccl_2/257-0431381-2241768

Aluminum Case

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005004361653667.html

Cable Lugs Terminals

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0CPKZLQRD/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3

Power Connector 2-Pin

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005004064809719.html

Insulated Pin Terminals

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32899629919.html

Ring Terminals

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256802074945562.html

[BrokenYugo]

Biggest doubt is the uncertified alphabet soup brand power supply you've picked out, those tend to be a shock/fire waiting to happen.

[tooki]

Do you think a setup like this could work ? The biggest doubt is about the controller.

I mean... probably?

I would not buy components on Amazon. You pay through the nose for some of the stuff. (E.g. the IEC mains jack: over 8 euros?!? One of those from a name brand like Schurter should only cost a few euros.) Otherwise, much of it is the same stuff you get on AliExpress, just for more money.

Don't use an LED power supply. They aren't made for general use, so who knows what their power output looks like. And don't use no-name stuff. I would use a medical grade power supply from a name brand like Mean Well, TDK-Lambda, or Delta Electronics. Medical power supplies have low leakage (which is good for not frying your chips), and I would only use a name brand power supply because cheap ones can fry you. This is not a joke, this is not an exaggeration: many no-name power supplies are extremely poorly made in terms of safety. The danger is not theoretical: people have been killed from electrocution through bad power supplies. (And some by house fires caused by bad power supplies.)

Medical power supplies only cost a little bit more. Digikey's cheapest 200W 24V medical power supply is $53 -- just $1 more than the non-medical version. (It's from CUI, which is also OK.)



As I said, I would save up money for a few months longer and buy the real JBC at that fantastic price you found.

[marck120]

@BrokenYugo, @tooki

Thanks for the warnings, I didn't think LED power supplies were dangerous, should these power supplies be okay ?
I didn't understand exactly what the medical power supply is.

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/RSP-200-24/7706308

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/PWM-200-24DA2/14307041

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/delta-electronics/PMH-24V200WCBA/5818890

https://it.farnell.com/tdk-lambda/ls200-24/psu-inclusa-24v-8-4a-200-w/dp/1995941

Okay, I found the rest of the components on Aliexpress:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005073073046.html

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007086016477.html

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/4001199656144.html

The final price of the JBC BT-2BQA is 298.90€, plus I would have to buy the tip separately.

As an alternative to the JBC BT-2BQA I found the Jabe UD-1200 T245, it is a clone of JBC but the reviews say that the build quality is good:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/33040378742.html



Or the AIXUN T420, I contacted AIXUN on Facebook, they do not respond by email, they explained to me that the AIXUN T420 and T435 are now out of production, but it should not be a problem, both the Jabe UD-1200 and AIXUN T420 / T435 are compatible with the original JBC handles

https://www.componentidigitali.com/it/componenti-digitali-home-page/attrezzature-laboratorio/prodotti-per-saldatura/stazioni-saldanti/stazione-saldante-aixun-t420-245-per-saldatura-a-stagno-intelligente.1.39.836.gp.33650.uw

JBC BT-2BQA price:

[tooki]

@BrokenYugo, @tooki

Thanks for the warnings, I didn't think LED power supplies were dangerous, should these power supplies be okay ?
I didn't understand exactly what the medical power supply is.

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/RSP-200-24/7706308

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/PWM-200-24DA2/14307041

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/delta-electronics/PMH-24V200WCBA/5818890

https://it.farnell.com/tdk-lambda/ls200-24/psu-inclusa-24v-8-4a-200-w/dp/1995941

While any of those is a much better choice than the LED driver you originally envisioned, none of them are medical power supplies. As I said, medical supplies cost only a little bit more and have advantages, so get one! On Digikey, in the Application parameter (Applicazioni in the Italian interface), choose the ones that include "medical". For the moment, don't worry yourself with why it is better, just know that it is a little bit better. I would certainly spend the extra 1-10 euros to get a medical version.

Okay, I found the rest of the components on Aliexpress:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005073073046.html

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007086016477.html

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/4001199656144.html

Just order them from digikey or farnell or mouser together with your power supply. You want quality for all the mains stuff, and it really won't cost much.

Also, don't forget input and output fuses. You can get an input fuse holder built into the mains input jack.

The final price of the JBC BT-2BQA is 298.90€, plus I would have to buy the tip separately.

It's still what I'd buy if I were in your place!!!

Even if you get a JBC clone, you want to use genuine JBC tips, because most of the clone tips are junk. Using junk tips defeats the purpose of getting a JBC-like system to begin with. So you can, and should, ignore any clone tips included with any station.

As an alternative to the JBC BT-2BQA I found the Jabe UD-1200 T245, it is a clone of JBC but the reviews say that the build quality is good:

It might be good, it might not be. I don't know. You cannot trust most reviewers, because the people who review clone stations are usually not particularly experienced, and don't know the problems to look for. So they do some basic testing and declare it awesome (because it solders well), but they have no idea it has other problems, like leakage currents on the tip, which is a common problem with cheap stations, especially ones powered by switching power supplies. (All of the name-brand stations with grounded tips make sure to comply with the relevant military standards, which are very strict, and ensure you won't accidentally zap a sensitive component.) We saw this problem with the

So I'm not saying that a given cheap station must be bad, but I would only trust one if it were tested thoroughly by a highly knowledgeable, experienced person.

Or the AIXUN T420, I contacted AIXUN on Facebook, they do not respond by email, they explained to me that the AIXUN T420 and T435 are now out of production, but it should not be a problem, both the Jabe UD-1200 and AIXUN T420 / T435 are compatible with the original JBC handles

I would not touch an Aixun soldering station with a 3 meter stick. Their huge design flaws in the T3A and others indicate they don't really know what they're doing.

And I certainly wouldn't consider it for just 70 euros less!! 

Like, maaaaaaybe if it cost 90 euros I'd consider one. But not for 230 shipped, not when a genuine JBC is under 300.

[marck120]

@tooki

Thanks for all the explanations and advice, very kind

Regarding the power supplies for medical use, they should be these, I wonder if the various QUICKO or KSGER have such high quality power supplies inside, given the cost I don't think so, yes as you explained to me the power supplies on digikey that I had shown you previously should also be fine.

I think the 150w power supplies are not good because the C245 tips work at 8A

Power (W)=24V×8A=192w

Power supplies for medical use:


https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/RPS-300-24/7706053

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/MSP-200-24/7705189

Sockets and switches:

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/qualtek/723W-X2-03/245546

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/e-switch/RA1113112R/3778055

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/molex/2181130202/14309339

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/molex/0190030032/3186506

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/tensility-international-corp/54-00064/6206245

Regarding the fuse holders at the output I didn't understand exactly which one I need, in any case I don't have other soldering irons, so I have to wire all the cables without soldering.

Fuse holders:

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/w%C3%BCrth-elektronik/696103201002/7244556

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/schurter-inc/8601-2001-08/2647189

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/mpd-memory-protection-devices/BF310/8119220


I was evaluating carefully whether this type of configuration is convenient, the power supply costs about 60€/70€, the controller 40€ / 50€, plus the aluminum case, the power supply is always usable in the end since all the controllers work at 24v.

Did you explain to me that there is a risk that it won't work ? the same controller is also sold on Aliexpress, there are no reviews about it. So it is not clear if it is compatible with the original JBC T245 handles

In the description it says: T245 soldering tip and handle compatible JBC 245 soldering iron tip and handle.

So any JBC 245 tip and handle should be fine.

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005431966064.html

Does the heating power of the soldering station also depend on the controller ? Or is a quality tip and a good power supply enough ? I mean this, I spend 70€ for a quality power supply, 40€ for an original JBC tip, but then if the controller is poor does it affect the heating performance during soldering ?

Yes, obviously a Chinese clone will never have the construction quality of an original JBC soldering station, the Jabe UD-1200 seems well built, on Aliexpress it costs 180€, it is 118€ less than the JBC BT-2BQA, the guy who reviewed the station also writes here on the forum, he seems very competent, then I don't know, there is always a risk.

The Jabe UD-1200 and the AIXUN T420/T435 do not have the T3A problem, the tips are connected to the ground, both have a linear transformer inside that is free from these problems, they are also compatible with the original JBC handles, if in the future the handle breaks it is very easy to find the replacement.

Sorry Google Translate does not help me, 3 meter stick regarding AIXUN what does it mean ? Is the handle too long ?

For now I am happy with a C245 clone tip, the original costs about 40€, I am aware that the quality is not comparable to the original, some clone tips are at least decent.

Reading this discussion I saw that you have an Ersa i-Con Nano, it is cheaper than the JBC, even the tips are found at lower prices, makes it very interesting.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/ersa-i-con-nano-and-nano-mk2-differences/msg5655303/#msg5655303

I was also evaluating the GVM H3, but the same reviewer found the cables inside reversed from what I understand, other users have not had the same problem, the transformer seems undersized, it lacks a bit of power.

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005001382618513.html



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



T245 soldering station how I made one

[tooki]

I don’t know where you got the idea that C245 tips run at 192W of power. JBC stations push 130W peak power into them, and less continuous. So 150W is more than enough.

As I have never built a JBC clone station (and have no plans to do so) I can’t really answer most of the other questions.

Again, if you’re going to dick around with clone tips, then just cancel this entire exercise and buy a Pinecil, TS80, or TS100 and call it a day. The entire reason to use JBC is to use their tips; using clone tips is stupid.

[thm_w]

Again, if you’re going to dick around with clone tips, then just cancel this entire exercise and buy a Pinecil, TS80, or TS100 and call it a day. The entire reason to use JBC is to use their tips; using clone tips is stupid.

No, you can get clone tips that will give you better performance than a pinecil/ts80/etc. There is a large variety in quality.

[marck120]

Again, if you’re going to dick around with clone tips, then just cancel this entire exercise and buy a Pinecil, TS80, or TS100 and call it a day. The entire reason to use JBC is to use their tips; using clone tips is stupid.

No, you can get clone tips that will give you better performance than a pinecil/ts80/etc. There is a large variety in quality.

Which clone tips do you recommend for the JBC - BT-2BQA ?

Are these compatible ?

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006080002428.html

A user had a problem with the JBC - BT-2BQA

https://www.reddit.com/r/soldering/comments/1b39fbs/my_brandnew_jbc_soldering_iron_just_got_red_hot/

[tooki]

Again, if you’re going to dick around with clone tips, then just cancel this entire exercise and buy a Pinecil, TS80, or TS100 and call it a day. The entire reason to use JBC is to use their tips; using clone tips is stupid.

No, you can get clone tips that will give you better performance than a pinecil/ts80/etc. There is a large variety in quality.

But since there are no guarantees on quality -- even ordering from a known vendor is no guarantee that you receive the same quality as before -- why bother?

I think chasing after good clone tips is a fool's errand. The reason to use a JBC station, or clone, is to use real JBC tips.

[thm_w]

But since there are no guarantees on quality -- even ordering from a known vendor is no guarantee that you receive the same quality as before -- why bother?

I think chasing after good clone tips is a fool's errand. The reason to use a JBC station, or clone, is to use real JBC tips.

To say buy only JBC tips doesn't really add up with the adequate performance I've personally seen from a random mix of branded clone tips (aixun, geeboon, ksger, aifen). Considering the relative cost and budget we are dealing with here (sub $100 stations). Spending the entire cost of your station on a few genuine JBC tips seems a bit high.
I guarantee the performance of these is better than pinecil: youtu.be/-TosWhPsru4?t=913

If you want to talk higher budget stations, $250+, then yes, I'll agree the cost has come down to the point that it can make sense for only $33 https://www.tequipment.net/JBC/C245908/Tips/.

You can also get a bunch of oddball tips for ~$8 that you might use once or twice where performance isn't critical:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006875569687.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007007333910.html

[marck120]

Hi, I wanted to tell you that this week I will receive the Ersa i-CON NANO MK2 that I ordered, apart from that I am choosing the tin, I can't go over €35, for now 100g are enough for me to start soldering, however I did some research, I identified the main most important brands:

Kester 44 *****
ALPHA METALS *****
Multicore loctite *****
MG Chemicals *****
Chipquik
Felder SN100Ni (Best without lead)
STANNOL
Warton
Cynel
BROQUETAS
MBO
Chemet
Asah
POS
ALFA
ANFEL
KEEP
Duratool
Mechanic (Chinese brand but it should be good)

The first four brands at the top of the list should be the best, however finding tin with lead is a problem, the 60/40 seems more widespread but I see that the 63/37 is the most recommended.

In Europe the shipping costs are quite high, I checked in the various shops, Digikey, Farnell, Mouser, RS Components, Reichelt, Conrad, TME, Amazon and eBay.

With the available budget I found the Chipquik RASW.0314OZ-ND 63/37 and the Felder SN100Ni, which one should I get ?

[thm_w]

I would prefer something no-clean. The Felder SN100Ni is no clean but its lead free.
Maybe SMDSW.031 2OZ or SMDSW.031 4OZ

Or get a few types as samples and try out, if you don't know what you want to use.

Do you know what you are using it for?

[marck120]

I would prefer something no-clean. The Felder SN100Ni is no clean but its lead free.
Maybe SMDSW.031 2OZ or SMDSW.031 4OZ

Or get a few types as samples and try out, if you don't know what you want to use.

Do you know what you are using it for?

Hi, thank you for answering me

To start I have to solder four pins of a SHT45 sensor and two cables of a remote control of a ceiling fan, I'll leave you the photos in the description.

If I take the model that does not have the no-clean wording, what does it mean ? Does it leave flux residue and should I clean it with isopropyl alcohol ?

The problem is that I have €18 of shipping costs, the SMDSW.031 4OZ on digikey costs me €41.32, €15.87 for the SMDSW.031 4OZ and €18 is shipping, to get free shipping I would have to spend €50, in practice it would be convenient since shipping costs more than the soldering wire, but I had no intention of spending €50

By samples you are referring to small quantities of tin from different brands, even in this way I would quickly exceed the budget, the minimum orderable I think is about 18g, on eBay they sell the Kester by the meter but even there there are high shipping costs.

Yes the Felder SN100Ni is lead free but I read on the forum that it still makes excellent soldering, the 100g spool of the Felder SN100Ni on Conrad costs me €25.08

If you find a good quality soldering wire on some Italian shop let me know, on Amazon there are some 60/40 spools but they are anonymous brands.

[tooki]

Hi, I wanted to tell you that this week I will receive the Ersa i-CON NANO MK2 that I ordered…

You’ll be quite happy with that, I think.

… apart from that I am choosing the tin, I can't go over €35, for now 100g are enough for me to start soldering, however I did some research, I identified the main most important brands:

Kester 44 *****
ALPHA METALS *****
Multicore loctite *****
MG Chemicals *****
Chipquik
Felder SN100Ni (Best without lead)
STANNOL
Warton
Cynel
BROQUETAS
MBO
Chemet
Asah
POS
ALFA
ANFEL
KEEP
Duratool
Mechanic (Chinese brand but it should be good)

You missed a few premium-quality brands:
Tamura-Elsold
AIM
Almit
Indium

All of those brands are rarely found at consumer-friendly distributors unfortunately.

SRA is another brand you missed. I’ve had no trouble with their products.

And I would remove Duratool from the list (that is a meaningless brand used by several unrelated companies worldwide for generic crap). I would avoid Mechanic because the chances of it being fake are too high.

Though they’re very popular, I am not as big a fan of Multicore/Loctite/Henkel and Stannol. (Stannol belonged to Multicore for a few years, years ago, so even though they’re separate now, to this day their product lines retain some similarities.) Anyway, I don’t think their fluxes are as good as others. Not as effective, and they “spit” more (that’s when flux drops spray out of the solder when heated, getting flux onto clean parts of the board).

The first four brands at the top of the list should be the best, however finding tin with lead is a problem, the 60/40 seems more widespread but I see that the 63/37 is the most recommended.

In Europe the shipping costs are quite high, I checked in the various shops, Digikey, Farnell, Mouser, RS Components, Reichelt, Conrad, TME, Amazon and eBay.

With the available budget I found the Chipquik RASW.0314OZ-ND 63/37 and the Felder SN100Ni, which one should I get ?

The Chipquik should be fine, though it is 2.2% flux core — I prefer 3.3%, like Kester 44 with flux size 66.

It is illegal for EU-based vendors to sell leaded solder to consumers (REACH). If you want it, you’ll need to order from outside EU. Digikey and Mouser both offer free, fast shipping on orders above €50, so just order solder together with some flux and components and you’ll pay no shipping. Remember that the point of soldering is to join your components, so you will need to order components anyway.

Reichelt and Conrad are probably the cheapest way to get Felder if you decide to go lead-free.

[tooki]

If I take the model that does not have the no-clean wording, what does it mean ? Does it leave flux residue and should I clean it with isopropyl alcohol ?

”No-clean” is one of the more unfortunate naming choices in soldering, because all it means is “for most purposes the residues are harmless, and have been designed to be visually appealing”. Most rosin fluxes are equally safe to leave on for most purposes, they’re just a bit more visible.

In critical applications, both rosin and no-clean flux residues must be removed. However, no-clean residues tend to be much harder to remove.

Countless people will say “clean with IPA”, but this is not recommended by most solder manufacturers, not even for ordinary rosin flux. And for modern no-clean, IPA frequently just doesn’t work properly. Whether visible or not, IPA alone often leaves behind ionic contaminants. I HIGHLY recommend using a commercial flux remover like Electrolube LFFR.

[marck120]

@Tooki

Hi, thank you for the very detailed explanations

Let's hope so, this is my first soldering station.

You've already explained everything to me, there's not much to add, yes exactly on Digikey and Mouser the most convenient choice is to make an order over €50, unfortunately my budget doesn't allow it, otherwise with a 250 gr spool I would have easily arrived at €50 instead of spending €18 on shipping.

Taking into account the budget, the choices I have available are these:

Acquista Felder ISO-Core "Clear" Sn100Ni+ Stagno per saldatura Bobina Sn99,25Cu0,7Ni0,05 0.100 kg 0.5 mm da Conrad
https://www.conrad.it/it/p/felder-iso-core-clear-sn100ni-stagno-per-saldatura-bobina-sn99-25cu0-7ni0-05-0-100-kg-0-5-mm-2226477.html

WBWS633731-4OZ SRA Soldering Products | Prodotti di saldatura, dissaldatura e rilavorazione | DigiKey
https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/sra-soldering-products/WBWS633731-4OZ/15816081

RASW.031 4OZ Chip Quik Inc. | Prodotti di saldatura, dissaldatura e rilavorazione | DigiKey
https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/chip-quik-inc/RASW-031-4OZ/9681988

LZ F4 BF 0,75250: Stagno da saldatura senza piombo con contenuto di rame, diametro comprare da reichelt
https://www.reichelt.com/it/it/shop/prodotto/stagno_da_saldatura_senza_piombo_con_contenuto_di_rame_diametro-258991#closemodal

MG Chemicals 4900-112G MG Chemicals sold by SWATEE ELECTRONICS : Amazon.it: Fai da te
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B008OA7SYE

For me the choice of a leaded or lead-free soldering wire is indifferent, I saw that you've already tested the Felder SN100Ni, you explained that it gives excellent results so for me it's more than fine.

Yes, apart from the SRA solder that I did not include in the list, I did not know the other brands, since the choice of a "No-clean" soldering wire is irrelevant if I may say so, I do not have the problem, even if as you explained to me in some situations it becomes more difficult to remove the residues, yes I should get the cleaning product that you recommended, I did not know this type of product.

I was a little undecided about the thickness of the wire but 0.8 mm should be fine for most jobs.

[tooki]

@Tooki

Hi, thank you for the very detailed explanations

Let's hope so, this is my first soldering station.

The i-Con nano Mk1 was my first soldering station (and still the only one I have at home, if we don't include the Pace desoldering station I bought later). I think you'll be happy with it -- just use the right tip for the job (something which is true for any soldering iron!) and you'll be golden.

Taking into account the budget, the choices I have available are these:

Acquista Felder ISO-Core "Clear" Sn100Ni+ Stagno per saldatura Bobina Sn99,25Cu0,7Ni0,05 0.100 kg 0.5 mm da Conrad
https://www.conrad.it/it/p/felder-iso-core-clear-sn100ni-stagno-per-saldatura-bobina-sn99-25cu0-7ni0-05-0-100-kg-0-5-mm-2226477.html

WBWS633731-4OZ SRA Soldering Products | Prodotti di saldatura, dissaldatura e rilavorazione | DigiKey
https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/sra-soldering-products/WBWS633731-4OZ/15816081

RASW.031 4OZ Chip Quik Inc. | Prodotti di saldatura, dissaldatura e rilavorazione | DigiKey
https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/chip-quik-inc/RASW-031-4OZ/9681988

LZ F4 BF 0,75250: Stagno da saldatura senza piombo con contenuto di rame, diametro comprare da reichelt
https://www.reichelt.com/it/it/shop/prodotto/stagno_da_saldatura_senza_piombo_con_contenuto_di_rame_diametro-258991#closemodal

MG Chemicals 4900-112G MG Chemicals sold by SWATEE ELECTRONICS : Amazon.it: Fai da te
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B008OA7SYE

For me the choice of a leaded or lead-free soldering wire is indifferent, I saw that you've already tested the Felder SN100Ni, you explained that it gives excellent results so for me it's more than fine.

Any of those is fine. The MG you link is a SAC305 (alloy), which contains a lot of silver, which reduces the melting point a bit, but makes it a lot more expensive, and that alloy does not produce super-shiny joints (which is fine, just don't expect them to be mirror shiny like lead solder, or even the Sn100Ni+).

I was a little undecided about the thickness of the wire but 0.8 mm should be fine for most jobs.

0.6-0.8mm is my favorite size range for most things. I have everything from 0.25mm to 2mm, but 0.6-0.8mm is the only one that lives on my bench at all times, the other sizes are in the drawer and only pulled out as needed.

At home, my main roll of solder is Kester 44 3.3%, 63/37 in 0.8mm, at work I bought the same thing but in 0.6mm and I think I prefer that a little bit. (At work, I bought the Felder SN100Ni+ in 0.75mm.)

As a beginner, this size range is perfect so that you can easily control the amount of solder you put on a joint; with solder that's thick, it can be really hard to not add too much.

Pro tip: for the times you need thicker solder than you have at hand (i.e. for very large joints that you need to be able to feed in lots of solder without taking too long, or for "rinsing" your soldering tip quickly), just take 2 or more strands of the solder you have, and twist them together.


Also, I don't remember if I shared this with you already, but as a beginner, watch this video series (it's under an hour for the whole thing). It's old, but absolutely the best soldering tutorial I have ever found. Follow it and you WILL solder better!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837

[marck120]

@Tooki

Thank you for the very kind advice.

I just hope that the i-Con nano Mk2 has the same quality as the i-Con nano Mk1, these upgrades sometimes do not turn out to be real improvements, for example I noticed that the bayonet heating element of the Mk2 is made of plastic, the screw one of the Mk1 is all metal, from what I understand the heating elements and the handpieces between MK1 and MK2 should be compatible with each other.

So I immediately discarded the MG Chemicals 4900, since the Sn100Ni+ has the exact same quality as the WBWS633731-4OZ SRA,  Chip Quik RASW.031 4OZ I will take the cheaper one, between the two as you explained to me there should be no difference.

Well then the size of the 0.8 mm soldering wire will be fine.

I had found the tutorial playlist reading a discussion on the forum but I have not had the chance to watch them, thanks for posting it, now I watch the videos calmly.

Heating elements 010102J vs 016100J :

[marck120]

Personal Notes Soldering Stations

1 option

T12 Stations

The tips are very cheap, it is very advantageous for a hobbyist with a limited budget.

I spend 50 -80 euros for a T12 station like a KSGER/Quicko STM32, AIFEN A8, YIHUA 948DB +-II (replacement handpiece for YIHUA 948DB +-II is the YIHUA 506A not easy to find)

Considering that some of these stations have the grounding problem on the case and on the tip, a cable is enough to fix them but a second soldering iron is needed.

STM32 versions like QUICKO 958 and KSGER v3 are compatible with DavidAlfa firmware, custom firmware offers many advantages, I think the most up to date stations regarding hardware and software are QUICKO 959 and KSGER v3, some versions have the case with the ground but not the tip, it is an unknown to know how they arrive exactly.

Mini KSGER and Quicko variant with separate power supply, here there is the advantage of being able to choose a quality separate power supply.

Since I need two soldering irons to fix the grounding problem I could get a QUICKO 958 T12 and a KSGER C245 C210, with just over €100 I could have two T12 and C245 stations, or two T12 systems, a standard QUICKO 958 with integrated power supply and a QUICKO mini OLED or LED, or a KSGER v3 and a QUICKO 958.

2 option

JBC C210/C245 clone station with switching power supply

I choose a C245/C245 station with switching power supply starting from 50 -80 euros for the cheapest KSGER C245 C210 (KSGER C210 C245 handpiece €17), Silverflo 982-I (Silverflo 706A/606A handpiece €18), Yihua 982-I (handpiece 210-I 716A,245-2.5K 616A 27€), and following with 120-150 euros there is the AIFEN A9 Plus, Aixun T320, Aixun T3A, YIHUA 982 black version, FNIRSI DWS-200, GEEBOON TC20A/TC22,

Even in these stations there is the problem of grounding and tensions on the tip.

AIFEN A9 Plus and Aixun T320 are compatible with the original JBC handles.

3 option

JBC clone stations with linear transformer and compatible with the original JBC handles

Or I take a JBC C210/C245 clone (with linear transformer and compatible with the original JBC handles) for about 220 euros, Jabe UD-1200 (Jabe UD-1200 only works with T245 handles), GVM H3, WEMON T31, Toor T12-X 150w, Toor T12-11 75w, Aixun T420 (toroidal transformer), I2C PDK1200 (toroidal transformer), Geeboon TA305, (toroidal transformer)

4 option

Original stations: JBC JBC BT-2BWA, Ersa or PACE 8007-0580, Metcal PS-900, Thermaltronics TMT-2000

I get to spend 300 euros and get an original JBC station like the JBC BT-2BWA 140w, a Metcal PS-900 60w, Thermaltronics TMT-2000 50W or a Pace ADS200 120w (PACE 8007-0580) or an I-CON NANO MK2 80w (I-CON NANO does not use cartridge tips) considering that it is less powerful but the tips are cheaper around 15-20 euros, an original JBC tip costs around 33 euros but can last even several years, some use good clone tips but they never have the quality of the JBC and have a shorter life, even the Pace ADS200 is sometimes supplied without a tip so to the cost of the station you have to add around 19 euros for the tip.
The I-CON NANO MK2 uses Ersa 0142 series tips, the old I-CON NANO MK1 uses Ersa 102 series tips, the handpieces are also different, the I-CON NANO MK2 handpiece is compatible with the I-CON NANO MK1
From what I understand, to calibrate the temperature on the JBC BT-2BWA without display, you need the JBC AC2600 (AC-A) which costs €270
Instead, on the Metcal PS-900 the temperature is self-adjusting. Handpiece: Metcal PS-H3 and PS-900-PC9
The PS-H3 handpiece is designed to be able to use two different coils, which allow it to accommodate different types of tips depending on the coil inserted:
PS-CA1 coil: Compatible only with PHT tips.
PS-CA3 coil: Compatible with SxV and CxV tips.
Each tip has different temperatures:
F = FR4/Fiberglass, for most standard applications T = Temperature Sensitive C = Ceramic for high thermal demand applications
Example: SFV-CN05, STV-CN05, SCV-CN05
Thermaltronics TMT-2000S station also has self-adjusting temperature.
The Thermaltronics TMT-2000S soldering station is compatible with different handpieces, each designed to support specific tip series. The TMT-2200S-2KM, TMT-2200S-2PM and TMT-2000S-2SM variants
Each tip has different temperatures:
xx = 60 (60 Series 325°C - 358°C)xx = 75 (70 Series 350°C - 398°C)xx = 80 (80 Series 420°C - 475°C)

Ersa I-CON NANO MK2 handpiece ERSA 0125CDK, EAN/GTIN 4003008153590 166€

5 option

Cartridge soldering stations with linear transformer and proprietary handpieces and tips less common compared to T12 and C245

ATETOOL AE970D, Atten ST-909 / MULTICOMP PRO MP741034, Quick TS11, QUICK TS1200A, AiXun T413 (not compatible with original JBC handles) The AiXun T413 should only be compatible with original JBC tips not with JBC handles

6 option

Kit T12, JBC C245

In this case I always need two soldering irons, a working soldering iron to solder the various components of the kit, with the kit I should buy the controller and the handpiece to assemble and a power supply.
I don't know how convenient this solution is, in the end a KSGER or Quicko station costs a little more than the kit, with the kit I can combine a quality power supply I could very well take a Quicko or a KSGER already assembled, open it and replace the standard power supply with a quality one, or a Quicko mini that only has the controller and combine a certified power supply of my choice, such as the Meanwell RPS-120-24. It has double insulation.
However, soldering stations that use external power supplies are connected with a two-pole power cable (i.e. without grounding) with the Meanwell RPS-120-24 which has double insulation, it is not necessary to bring a ground wire to the case for electrical safety, but an ESD protection is necessary to add a ground wire between the tip of the soldering iron and the power supply, the cable must be connected to the PE of the power supply with a 1 MΩ series resistance
There are more expensive kits such as AxxSolder 3 and Unisolder 5.2+, the AxxSolder 3 controller costs €132 + €15 shipping, the Meanwell LRS-150-24 power supply costs €20, original JBC handpiece €80 but I think a €20 clone is also fine, original JBC support €175, universal JBC support €20, finally you need to print the case for the controller and install the firmware I think.

7 option

Second hand station like Metcal MX 500 one of the best stations on the market.

8 option

Soldering stations with separate heating element and linear transformer

YIHUA 939D+ III EVO 110W, YIHUA K917C - Handpiece, The tips are not standard but of the 902 type, Yihua 939D+ 70w these tips are used by YIHUA 926LED-IV EVO 948D-III 938BD-I EVO 995D+EVO 939D+III EVO 853AAA-I 948DQ-III

HAKKO FX-888D 75w T18 tips, HAKKO FX888DX-31BY 100w T18 tips stylus 95W (optional), WELLER WE 1010 70w proprietary Weller ET tips

Stations compatible with standard 900M tips Hakko clones 936/937, Atten AT938D 60w, YiHUA 936A 60w, Atten AT980D 80w handpiece Atten 907, Atten AT-989D 65w, TENMA 21-21310 80w, AT937 50w, Atten AT-969 60w, YiHua 937D 40w handpiece YIHUA 907A (very poor internal quality), Aoyue 9378 60w, AOYUE 937+ 50w, Quick 936/A 60w, Bakon BK969S 60w, Atten ST-80 80W T900 tips, ATTEN ST-100 100w T800 tips

Quick TS1100 Quick 960 tips, QUICK 3202 90w, QUICK 3205 150w, QUICK TS2300

XYTronic LF-3200 120w apart from its tips are also compatible with Atten 315 and Quick 200 tips, Xytronic HF90120ESD handpiece, KOLBEN HF 90120

XYTronic LF-3300 180w, Xytronic LHF150 handpiece

Lafayette sdd-9, ZD series tips

9 option

High Frequency Soldering Station

Quick 202D 90w €258 shipping included tme.eu/it
Quick 303D 120w €255 Aliexpress
Quick 203G 150w €324 eleshop.eu (slow heating)
Quick TS2200 90w €224 Amazon €288 tme.eu/it €240 ebay
Quick TS2200D 90w €264 quick-global.eu €224 amazon.it
Quick TS2300C 150w €329 Aliexpress
Quick TS2300D 150w €361 tme.eu/it €349 quick-global.eu €273 Aliexpress
QUICK 3202 90w (noisy fan, heating slow) €152 amazon.it €238 quick-global.eu €212 Aliexpress
QUICK 3205 150w (loud fan, slow heating) €205 amazon.it €210 Aliexpress

Bakon BK2000s 120w €102 Aliexpress
Bakon BK3300s 200w has a fan €124 Aliexpress ATTEN ST-9003D 90w €199 tme.eu/it
ATTEN ST-1203D 120w hard to find
ATTEN S ST-1503D 150w €358 Aliexpress
ATTEN ST-1503 €236 Aliexpress
ATTEN ST-3003D 300w is not for sale, (it has the fan)

XYtronic LF-3000 90W made in taiwan not find on sale
XYTronic LF-3200 120w made in taiwan 130€ reichelt.com KOLBEN HF 90120 handpiece
XYtronic LF-3500 150W made in taiwan compatible with few tips
XYtronic LF-3300 180w made in taiwan 181€ reichelt.com KOLBEN LHF 150 handpiece

Yihua 950 150w noisy fan, slow heating €248 ebay.it RADIOMAG, €265 amazon.de RADIOMAG

TOOLCRAFT ST-100 HF 100w €174 amazon.it, €182 conrad ebay.it, €214 conrad.it
TOOLCRAFT ST-150 HF 150w 275€ amazon.it, 279€ conrad.com, 283€ conrad .ebay.it, TOOLCRAFT TO-4986105 handpiece

Thermaltronics TMT-2000 50W but powerful, expensive tips hard to find 195€ weidinger.eu TMT-2000S-PM 261€ weidinger.eu ,TMT-2000S -PM 272€ excl.equipment, PS-CA3 coil, handpieces: Thermaltronics SHP-SM, SHP-SM 1(S series),Thermaltronics SHP-PM, SHP-PM RMP-1 (P series) Thermaltronics SHP-K, SHP -K 1 (k series)
Metcal PS-900 60w but powerful, expensive tips hard to find (some units died suddenly) €307 it.farnell.com, €320 mouser.it, €346 it.rs-online, Metcal PS-H3, PS-HC3 handpiece

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Final choice summary

- Xytronic lf 3200 €129.96 (incl. XY HF 1.6 mm tip 44-413069)
- HAKKO FX-888DX €165.31 (incl. tip T18-B Shape-B)
- ERSA i-CON Nano MK2 €274.22 (incl. 1.6 mm tip, 0142CDLF16)
- JBC BT-2BQA €298.90 (with C245-160E tip €29.89) (discount coupon -€25) Total €310.37
- Thermaltronics TMT-2000S- -K (UPG) €249.06 ( K75CH016 €13.54) Total €262.60
- METCAL PS-900 €307.44 (incl. SFV-CH15A tip)

- Out of budget:

Pace ADS200 €355.75 (1130-0019-P1 €19.31) Total €379.31

The JBC BT-2BQA does not provide tips so you have to add €29.89, even on the Thermaltronics TMT-2000S -K there are no tips provided.

[marck120]

Hello, yesterday I received the ersa icon nano mk2 soldering station, for now I took it out of the box and did the first start-up, I'm waiting for the solder I ordered to do the first tests, as soon as I opened the box I immediately noticed a small defect on the display, it seems like there is a kind of thread, in reality the display I don't think is threaded, by passing your finger you can't feel any edge, inside it seems like there is a peeling film or something like that, more than anything it is an annoying aesthetic defect, it doesn't affect the functioning of the station in the slightest.

The station is really small, but it was not a surprise because I knew the dimensions, the construction quality does not seem exceptional to me, especially the buttons to adjust the temperature are very delicate, they do not give any sense of solidity, they are quite wobbly, I hope they last over time, once the temperature is set there is no need to change it often I think, however in case of problems I have until January 31st to return it, these were just my first impressions, as I said I am waiting for the tin to arrive to carry out the soldering and see how it behaves.

I leave you some photos, sorry for the quality, in one of the photos I marked the defect in the display that I was telling you about.

[mariush]

Hi, I wanted to tell you that this week I will receive the Ersa i-CON NANO MK2 that I ordered, apart from that I am choosing the tin, I can't go over €35, for now 100g are enough for me to start soldering, however I did some research, I identified the main most important brands:

Kester 44 *****
ALPHA METALS *****
Multicore loctite *****
MG Chemicals *****
Chipquik
Felder SN100Ni (Best without lead)
STANNOL
Warton
Cynel
BROQUETAS
MBO
Chemet
Asah
POS
ALFA
ANFEL
KEEP
Duratool
Mechanic (Chinese brand but it should be good)

The first four brands at the top of the list should be the best, however finding tin with lead is a problem, the 60/40 seems more widespread but I see that the 63/37 is the most recommended.

In Europe the shipping costs are quite high, I checked in the various shops, Digikey, Farnell, Mouser, RS Components, Reichelt, Conrad, TME, Amazon and eBay.

With the available budget I found the Chipquik RASW.0314OZ-ND 63/37 and the Felder SN100Ni, which one should I get ?

Multicore is now sold as Harimatec , after the Japanese company that bought them.

You're missing Edsyn, which is also decent (available at Farnell)

Duratool is mostly rebranding stuff...asian brands.

Multicomp is Farnell's brand, they're rebranding as well, some of their solders are Henkel, Stannol , some were Multicore (based on packaging and flux names in datasheets)

From EU stores you'll have a hard time getting solder with lead if you're a private person (not buying as a company) due to EU regulations.

63/37 is better than 60/40 because it's euctetic, it "snaps" between liquid and cold at very narrow temp range (183c) compared to 60/40 that has a transition range around 180c ...  but if you have a hard time finding 63/37 you can start with 60/40

I'd say more important would be to get a nice thickness and flux amount and flux type.... go for no-clean, or rosin, rma (rosin mildy activated). With some RA solders, you'll have to check datasheet to see if they say cleaning with isopropyl alcohol or flux cleaners is recommended - if they do say that, i'd avoid that solder for now, stay with less active no-clean or rma solder wires.  Avoid water based or organic fluxes, they're harder to clean.
 
My solder wire is 0.56mm multicore, no-clean 2.2% flux ... I'd suggest maybe getting 30-50g of something very thin like 0.38mm , 100g of 0.45-0.56mm and maybe 100g of 0.8mm or bigger (but you can usually bend a cut of 0.5mm in half to get more thickness)

If you can order from TME, also order some liquid flux. It depends on what country you pick (i think it can only be shipped by train/land), but you can get AG Thermopasty liquid flux in 100ml or bigger bottles for a few euro.

ex 500ml bottle for 15 eur : https://www.tme.eu/ro/en/details/flux-tk_500/fluxes/ag-termopasty/art-agt-075/

Or you could make your own flux by crushing 20-30% by weight of this into isopropyl alcohol and let it dissolve until it becomes flux  : https://www.tme.eu/ro/en/details/kalafonia-500/fluxes/ag-termopasty/art-agt-094/

Optionally add maybe a teaspoon of adipic acid and benzoic acid for every 100-200 ml and you get the composition of the TK83 flux above ( 20-25% rosin, <80% isopropyl alcohol, <3% adipic acid, <5% benzoic acid ) but the acids are optional, just makes the flux a bit more active.


with TME I noticed some solder wires are also hidden depending on what country you choose.  For Romania, they only offer Broquetas and Cynel as lead based solders... not a fan of either. on lead free there's also Stannol and Alpha.

Id rather get new old stock from eBay if my current solder is gone.

[marck120]

@mariush

Hi, thanks for the advice.

I already ordered the solder wire on Thursday, I bought this one:

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/chip-quik-inc/RASW-031-4OZ/9681988

It's not No-Clean but I think it's fine anyway.

Otherwise I had this option but I have already purchased the RASW.031 4OZ:

https://www.digikey.it/it/products/detail/sra-soldering-products/WBWS633731-4OZ/15816081

On farnell I checked the brand you recommended unfortunately it exceeded my budget:

https://it.farnell.com/c/attrezzi-e-forniture-di-produzione/stazioni-di-saldatura-e-accessori/fili-di-saldatura?sort=P_PRICE&brand=edsyn

On farnell I had much higher shipping costs :

https://it.farnell.com/c/tools-and-production-supplies/station-of-welding-and-accessories/wires-of-welding?sort=P_PRICE&lega-saldante=63-37-sn-pb

Example :

Cart subtotal
€8.07
Delivery
€0.00
Direct shipping charge
€18.00
Shipping costs
€14.99
VAT
€9.03
Total
€50.09



Regarding the product "Ex Bottle of 500 ml" on TME it is also blocked in my country, instead the isopropyl alcohol to dissolve in water that you indicated is available in my country.





All the tin with lead on TME is not possible to buy in my country, as I said the only shops where I found lead with tin are digikey.it and mouser.it, all the other products such as flux, I have a somewhat limited budget the flux and products such as isopropyl alcohol and detergents I will buy later.

I hope it is not a big problem, at least the isopropyl alcohol should be purchased immediately to start soldering, the RASW.031 4OZ that I purchased is 0.79mm, it should still be fine for what I have to do, however I also check on eBay if I find the isopropyl alcohol for cleaning, the shipping costs are too high in general, on digikey and mouser they are free but you have to spend € 50

I found this on eBay I don't know if it can be good:

https://www.ebay.it/itm/252013915536

https://www.ebay.it/itm/324132203779

https://www.amazon.it/liquido-saldatura-Reflow-Rework-Reball/dp/B07B511DDL

https://www.informaticait.it/elettronica/laboratorio-e-saldatura/flussanti/Flussante-liquido-no-clean-Topnik-TK-83-100-ml-per-bga-saldature-a-stagno-smd.html

[tooki]

@Tooki

Thank you for the very kind advice.

I just hope that the i-Con nano Mk2 has the same quality as the i-Con nano Mk1, these upgrades sometimes do not turn out to be real improvements, for example I noticed that the bayonet heating element of the Mk2 is made of plastic, the screw one of the Mk1 is all metal, from what I understand the heating elements and the handpieces between MK1 and MK2 should be compatible with each other.

It is unknown whether the nano Mk1 and Mk2 handpieces are compatible. My guess is that they probably are, but Ersa doesn’t say.

On the “big” I-Con stations (everything except nano and pico), Ersa expressly says that the handpieces are compatible.

I don’t know where you got the idea that the heating elements are compatible. They definitely are not.


Plastic isn’t necessarily a bad thing. High-quality plastics perform very well, and we have no reason to think Ersa is being cheap. That bayonet would be much more difficult to make of metal, I imagine.

[tooki]

Hello, yesterday I received the ersa icon nano mk2 soldering station, for now I took it out of the box and did the first start-up, I'm waiting for the solder I ordered to do the first tests, as soon as I opened the box I immediately noticed a small defect on the display, it seems like there is a kind of thread, in reality the display I don't think is threaded, by passing your finger you can't feel any edge, inside it seems like there is a peeling film or something like that, more than anything it is an annoying aesthetic defect, it doesn't affect the functioning of the station in the slightest.

The station is really small, but it was not a surprise because I knew the dimensions, the construction quality does not seem exceptional to me, especially the buttons to adjust the temperature are very delicate, they do not give any sense of solidity, they are quite wobbly, I hope they last over time, once the temperature is set there is no need to change it often I think, however in case of problems I have until January 31st to return it, these were just my first impressions, as I said I am waiting for the tin to arrive to carry out the soldering and see how it behaves.

The thing on the display is probably just a little bit of cardboard from the box which got inside through the vents on the top. You should be able to vacuum it out or blow it out with compressed air.

The buttons are standard tactile switches. Again, this is a product from a quality manufacturer, so we can expect they chose good quality switches.

[mariush]

The first link to some 1 liter isopropyl solution is no good, description says 3-10% isopropyl alcohol and rest water , no good.

The weller lw25 is rosin free flux, but looking at msds it has ammonium chloride (<5%) and zinc chloride (<10%) ... These aren't great for electronics and definitely not good for your lungs when they're burned, it's much worse than rosin fluxes... so I'd avoid it.

third link  (RF800) is fine. also reasonable price.



Yeah the solder wire you got is fine, just a bit on the thicker side.

It's harder to solder surface mount components like 0805 resistors with wire so thick but otherwise it's fine.

Isopropyl alcohol (or Isopropanol / Izopropanol) should be available locally at reasonable prices.

For use in flux, you should get at least 95% pure, you won't get 100% pure because it absorbs humidity from the air and even through plastic bottles over time, so it can't stay 100% pure. Electronics grade is usually >= 99.5% but I've also seen 97% pure sold as electronics grade.

A lot of isopropyl alcohol was used during covid as hand sanitizer, at 70% purity (with near 30% water and some perfumes and preservatives) it works best at that concentration to enter cells and kill germs, at higher purity it's less effective.

You also be able to find isopropyl alcohol at veterinarians or pharmacies that also sell animal meds, but the purity may be 90% or less. It's used in some treatments for animals (horses, cows  antiseptic for sheeps, goats etc etc)

It's basically considered like gasoline, flammable, it's a solvent that can burn, and that's why it can't be shipped by air and some companies may refuse to ship it by land (mainly because they don't want to do custom labels and separate shippings)

IF you want to make your own flux, as I said, you just have to crush those rosin granules in a fine powder and mix 20-30% by weight with isopropyl alcohol. The other two acids I mentioned are optional, if you can't get them easily you can use instead glycerin, around 2-3% of contents will be fine.. for example : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nature-Spell-Vegetable-Derived-Glycerine/dp/B092WG72KR/

Benzoic acid is also used in the bottle as preservative (prevents mold and bacteria from growing in the bottle) but if you make small 50-100ml batches it won't be needed.


ps. looked at the picture with the display ... are you sure that's not just a crease in some protective foil put over the plastic of the display?   Maybe see if it's some foil that can be peeled off ?  (though don't be aggressive with it)

[tooki]

The first link to some 1 liter isopropyl solution is no good, description says 3-10% isopropyl alcohol and rest water , no good.

No, it does not say that. It says it is 99.9% concentration. What you read farther down is the instructions saying you can dilute it to 3-10% concentration (“1 cap to a liter of water”) to use as a detergent in an ultrasonic cleaner.

So it’s fine as IPA, but as I told OP, IPA is not the ideal cleaner for flux. Commercial flux removers are much better, and while they cost twice as much, you need far less of it to achieve a good result.

The weller lw25 is rosin free flux, but looking at msds it has ammonium chloride (<5%) and zinc chloride (<10%) ... These aren't great for electronics and definitely not good for your lungs when they're burned, it's much worse than rosin fluxes... so I'd avoid it.

Absolutely! That’s an acid flux intended for work on things like sheet metal. It’s not suitable for any kind of electrical or electronics work.

IF you want to make your own flux, as I said, you just have to crush those rosin granules in a fine powder and mix 20-30% by weight with isopropyl alcohol.

I mean… yeah, you can, it’s just not very good flux.

[marck120]

@Tooki

Thanks a lot for the advice and explanations

Yes I had read a post of yours where you hypothesized that the nano Mk1 and Mk2 handpieces were perhaps compatible with each other, so I thought that the heating elements were also compatible, but comparing the photos they seem physically different, even if the external shell of the handpieces is the same this does not mean anything.

Regarding the display I will try to blow it with compressed air in some way, I would have preferred to have the buttons closed or not so protruding, like those of the Hakko FX888D, these are also more prone to breakage in the event of impacts.

@mariush

Thanks a lot for indicating the right products to me, I am quite ignorant on the subject, even if I go to read the composition of the products it is useless, then I do not know which elements are more suitable for the electronic parts.

The RF800 that I indicated I have now seen that it cannot be shipped to my address, I found some alternative products:

https://www.electronicmegastore.net/it/home/saldatura-e-dissaldatura/flussante/liquido-flussante-rf-800-no-clean-per-smd-rigenera-saldature-100-ml-saldatura-100ml.1.1.255.gp.16351.uw

https://www.ebay.it/itm/275045894224

https://www.italtronik.it/flux-topnik-rf800-100ml-flussante-professionale-no-clean-base-alcool-originale-p-1430.html?language=it

Regarding the soldering wire as usual I was undecided until the last moment between 0.8 mm and 0.5 mm, now I have this.

Yes regarding the isopropyl alcohol I'll see if I can find it locally in some pharmacy, regarding the 100 gr tin I don't know on average how long it can last, but given the shipping costs it is better to buy at least 250 gr in order to exceed € 50 and get free shipping.

The "ART.AGT-094AG TERMOPASTY" kefalonia granules that you indicated to me must therefore be crushed mixed with the isopropyl alcohol, from what I understand the glycerin that you indicated in the link must also be mixed at 2-3% with the isopropyl alcohol to obtain the flux.

No regarding the display unfortunately there was no film externally, it is just something that is inside, perhaps it is a foreign body or something detached.

@Tooki, @mariush

But is it true that "NO-CLEAN" soldering alloys ruin the tips of the soldering iron?



https://youtu.be/bGw4YCoaZxI?t=1334

[thm_w]

Dewetting just means solder doesn't stick to the tip, I've never had that issue with the no-clean solders I use.
Use brass wool to keep the tip clean, re-tin, reasonable temperature, and the tip will last long.

https://www.metcal.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Metcal-Soldering-Tips-Care-Guide.pdf

[marck120]

Dewetting just means solder doesn't stick to the tip, I've never had that issue with the no-clean solders I use.
Use brass wool to keep the tip clean, re-tin, reasonable temperature, and the tip will last long.

https://www.metcal.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Metcal-Soldering-Tips-Care-Guide.pdf

Hi, thanks, I'll start by saying that the soldering wire I ordered is still on its way.

Today I did some tests with some old tin I had at home, I set the temperature to 350 degrees, I tried to solder two wires but the test failed, the tin melted when in contact with the tip but it didn't stick to the copper wires, it was just a test to test the station, the soldering wire used is a real piece of junk.



Do you think I'll need flux with the new soldering wire I ordered ? If so, is this flux valid ?

https://www.amazon.it/InfoCoste-Pasta-per-saldatura/dp/B00FA40RHM

https://www.amazon.it/Kemper-B090PASNE1-Pasta-Salda-Blister/dp/B00H42KPZ2

https://www.ebay.it/itm/275045894224

https://www.electronicmegastore.net/it/home/saldatura-e-dissaldatura/flussante/liquido-flussante-rf-800-no-clean-per-smd-rigenera-saldature-100-ml-saldatura-100ml.1.1.255.gp.16351.uw

Or the 500 g bags of pre-activated rosin with 2.5% adipic acid that @mariush recommended to me, to be mixed with isopropyl alcohol

https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/kalafonia-500/fluxes/ag-termopasty/art-agt-094/

I know that this flux is good but I want to buy it on amazon.it or Italian shops to avoid too high shipping costs:

https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/chip-quik-inc/SMD291NL-10M/14636550

https://www.mouser.it/ProductDetail/Chip-Quik/SMD291?qs=8BX3xQzFIvmwkympZqnNNA%3D%3D

I understand that these questions have been asked many times:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/best-solder-flux/

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/manufacture/flux-recommendation/msg2687040/#msg2687040

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/please-recommend-an-alternative-flux-and-solder/

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/good-soldering-flux/

Yes, to clean the tip I'm using the steel wool supplied with the soldering station, if the tip is very oxidized I've seen that some use a special paste or flux to clean the tip:

https://youtu.be/Pj9knMqgO0Q

https://youtu.be/DoPelhcEjtM

https://youtu.be/-NVn7IwOuyY

To preserve the tip after soldering they recommend turning off the soldering iron and applying a drop of tin on the tip while it is still hot:

"wipe gently on brass wool, so any contaminants are removed. ...
turn off iron.
touch a small bit of solder (of the normal wire you would use) to the tip to cover it well whilst iron still hot enough to do so. ...
hold iron downward or in holder until this thin blob hardens on the tip."


"After soldering, apply some solder to the tip to cover the pre-tinned area and place the iron in the holder.
Soldering tips oxidize as exposed to the air.
Make sure to leave some solder on the tip to cover the pre-tinned area when placing the iron in the holder."

https://www.hakko.com/english/support/maintenance/detail.php?seq=183

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/storing-that-damn-soldering-iron/

https://youtu.be/HfULlQUWWPg

[shabaz]

Hi,

It's not worth dirtying the soldering tip unnecessarily. That solder could contain corrosive flux not intended for electronics. It might make no difference for a brief test (I'm no chemist, I don't know), but since you're unlikely to want to replace that tip anytime soon, maybe better to err on the safe side, since there's zero point that you'll ever use that awful solder for a real soldering job; it should be binned, and there's no practical value to this experiment with your soldering tip).

[marck120]

Hi,

It's not worth dirtying the soldering tip unnecessarily. That solder could contain corrosive flux not intended for electronics. It might make no difference for a brief test (I'm no chemist, I don't know), but since you're unlikely to want to replace that tip anytime soon, maybe better to err on the safe side, since there's zero point that you'll ever use that awful solder for a real soldering job; it should be binned, and there's no practical value to this experiment with your soldering tip).

Hi, it's just a little test I did to try out the station, I agree with you, the solder I used should be thrown in the garbage, I'm waiting for the soldering wire I ordered to arrive, with what the tips cost I want it to last as long as possible, I hope I haven't corroded the tip for this short test.

[shabaz]

It was a pointless test. With respect, this is crazy that you'd take that risk given you only have the one soldering tip. Throw that solder away..

Also, too many links in your post for me to want to check, but no, you don't need any flux for soldering Arduino connections. If/when you feel the need for it, you can buy yourself a little tube of it (for instance 10-15 ml) or a little bottle of it. Why would you want half a kilo bag of substance to mix with a level of IPA which you do not have either?

A small quantity of decent brand flux, in tube (paste) or liquid form, is purchasable from Amazon Italy, for ballpark 10-20 euro, all ready to use.

A tiny tube of flux should last you years, and into the timeframe when you're good and ready to advance further with (say) surface-mount techniques.

[marck120]

Yes, it's an old soldering wire that I found at home, I won't use it anymore, I'm not an expert and I don't even know the chemical composition of that tinning wire, even if it's junk and still a soldering tin, I doubt that it contains acids or substances so corrosive as to ruin a tip in 5 minutes of use, then anything is possible.

Decent brands of flux on Amazon Italy I don't know if they are available, I'll check better, there's no need to open all the links, if you want to take a look these four are enough :

https://www.amazon.it/InfoCoste-Pasta-per-saldatura/dp/B00FA40RHM?th=1

https://www.amazon.it/Kemper-B090PASNE1-Pasta-Salda-Blister/dp/B00H42KPZ2

https://www.ebay.it/itm/275045894224

https://www.electronicmegastore.net/it/home/saldatura-e-dissaldatura/flussante/liquido-flussante-rf-800-no-clean-per-smd-rigenera-saldature-100-ml-saldatura-100ml.1.1.255.gp.16351.uw

However, if for now I don't need any flux to solder the pins of the SHT45 sensor, there's no point in buying it, as soon as it arrives I'll only use the tin I ordered, yes I agree it's better to use a ready-made flux, no I don't have isopropyl alcohol, yes exactly in case I need it a small amount is enough, even 10-15 ml is fine.

EDIT :

These are good brands of flux, but if I do not need it for now it is useless to buy it:

https://www.amazon.it/MG-Chemicals-Pasta-saldatura-siringa/dp/B00425FUW2/258-9249577-8177925

https://www.amazon.it/MG-Chemicals-erogatore-pneumatico-irrigazione/dp/B00M1RC0IU

https://www.amazon.it/Solder-Paste-clean-Lead-Free-syringe/dp/B07B3VL5B6

[marck120]

Hello, I have carried out some tests, I measured the temperature of the tip of the Ersa i-CON NANO MK2 to understand if the temperature indicated by the display was correct, I set the temperature to 320 C°, unfortunately the temperature revealed by the Brymen bm257s is decidedly lower, I don't know what to think, perhaps the thermocouple of the Brymen bm257s is not reliable ? or I have not carried out the test correctly ? by squeezing the probe between the fingers it should measure the body temperature instead it indicates 32 C°

[shabaz]

There's supposed to be a bit of solder on the tip, and the thermocouple surface is usually flat (i.e. special thermocouple) so that the tip with its solder can gently rest on it with good contact.

Since your soldering station is new, you can just trust it, i.e. the set temperature won't be more off than 10-20 degrees, which isn't of concern since you're only planning to solder connectors etc.

You could set the soldering station to a sensible value (start at around 330 degrees C, and maybe increase by 10 or 20 degrees if that's not effective for your needs) and you don't need to verify further; your measuring equipment and setup with that thermocouple may be overall less accurate than what the manufacturer used, so you shouldn't try to calibrate against that anyway. You could buy a temperature measurement device, but it's all pointless, it's a waste of money if you don't need it (which you don't). At this stage, you ought to be now using the iron for its intended purpose, making projects or whatever you planned on doing.

[marck120]

@Shabaz

Hi, thanks for answering me, no I didn't put solder on the tip for fear of dirtying the thermocouple probe, I thought the tin could remain attached to the probe.

More than anything I wanted to do this test because when I brought my hand close to the tip of the soldering iron I felt very little heat, so I took these measurements, yes in fact I expected 10° - 20° degrees of difference, I was surprised when I measured 35° - 40 ° of difference. as you explained to me probably this thermocouple is not suitable for this type of measurements, I don't know it seems unlikely to me that the soldering station has some kind of problem.

Exactly, I didn't even try to calibrate the station because I don't know if the probe I'm using is reliable, among other things the temperatures revealed during the measurements are always different.

I didn't take the measurements because I need high temperatures but only to understand if the temperature indicated on the display was correct.

The thermometers are cheap but as you said maybe it is useless to buy them, I am only interested in making sure that the station works well, I have no special needs, I would never want it to have any problems, I have until January 31st to return it.

The surface of the thermocouple is not flat, the end has a shape that resembles a drop.