- Uses STM32F103 processor (please correct if wrong)
Yep. Just be aware that there are different versions of this MCU, I have already explained in a previous post earlier in this thread which one(s).
- Uses the same OLED display (or can we find a (cheap) bigger one, perhaps color?)
It would make sense to initially design around the exact same display, or any other pin-compatible SPI display that is 100% compatible. Perhaps sacrifice an existing board for parts. (which, i am guessing, would require you to buy a 2nd v2.1 unit). But you know: there are always other ways!
Having an option for 2-3 more compatible displays in future would be great / even better. Getting a PCB design that can accommodate multiple types is a nice idea. But not everybody is inclined to go to such lengths. So it is also somewhat of a personal choice too. What is nice is when the person designing the PCB actually bothers to mention the reasoning / rational behind the choice. Because: it lets others know if the reason was region specific parts (they might live in another country, with different supply / prices / access to the part). It also lets others know: if there was some overriding cost based reason why other display(s) are not supported, and not for them to bother researching (because you did the hard work already and here was why). Or alternatively if someone wants to pick up and actually improve your design with an incremental update. Which you did not have the time / resources to do yourself. But is nevertheless welcome / useful / not harmful to the overall product goals (BOM cost, usability, quality, availability, complexity, etc).
- Allows use of either the KSGER T12 tips or the JBC tips (can someone describe what this would mean, will they both plug into the same handle, what would be the connector arrangement?)
Yeah the JBC 6 pin din connector is different, and made of plastic and it has been commented by someone else that it is not the best quality / best possible choice. An assessment which i also agree with. However to loose it means that the user would have to re-wire their JBC handle and solder on a different DIN connector. Which is not ideal assumption (IF that end user also intends to re-use same handle in future on real JBC hardware, or sell it on, etc). OTOH end user might actually want to rewire it with a different (better quality!) connector. Depending on their specific preference. So perhaps the best compromise is to just include suitable pads and holes on the PCB, where an end user can wire their own din plug(s). Whichever common type they need. 1 would be the 6-pin type for the JBC, the other one would be for an official hakko station handle.
Now here is another choice: you might choose to overlap them to occupy the same board space. But I would strongly recommend against that. And perhaps the different pinouts of each style would prohibit that anyhow. (if the pinouts don't match each other well enough to occupy the same space / area).
However a different thinking option might be with some small breakout board that is independently soldered to the main PCB via 0.1 inch headers etc. It is a design decision that also is dependant upon the level of complexity you want, those trade offs. And also the kinds of assembly, case assembly, and even the mechanical strength behind the DIN connector too. For example if the breakaout is situated on another layer directly above the place where you push through the 0.1 inch pins. That can be a simple way to add strength right behind the din plug might be getting some heavy abuse. Or it could be wrong overall choice, if the assembly is more challenging / annoying as a result!
There are best practices in these areas. And hopefully others here can comment better than myself. In the v3.1 pcb i have, there is option for 1 din type (which isnt JBC) AND also just adjacent some type of a breakout pads. Meant for soldering wires then onto the DIN, or off to an independant breakout board (to be screwed onto the front plate). Either way. So that is also another option too.
- Perhaps allow more power by increasing current handling ability and/or increasing supply voltage (please comment)
Not sure myself. Perhaps someone else can answer better. First things first: test the performance of this thing @ 24v. And see how many amps it will draw.
- Use a switch mode converter for the 3.3V supply so it doesn't get crazy hot
My solution was simply going to be glue a decent heatsink onto it. But a proper fix is more than welcome! Actually I have yet to test my approach yet. Have not got around to it. Busy with other things.
- Need to consider the form factor for the soldering station which would drive the outline of the PCB + where the controls, display, and connectors were;
Yeah the v3.1 board (i included photo earlier in this thread so hopefully you can see what I am referring to). Has side breakouts to cover both mounting types (on and off of the front facia). And IMHO that is a useful approach because some people wont have room to mount it all direct as a single piece OR would like to space out the fron panel controls a bit, leaving more gaps, have extra switches or for larger display they want to mount, etc.
IDK, perhaps your choices will be informed by other factors, so some decisions will be made for you due to the other constraints.
I think a unit that incorporates an iron-holder in some kind of angled station (like JBC) is better than flat on desk like KSGER but what if it were KSGER-style extruded aluminum case with the display end angled up away from the desk surface?
I think the main thing for the holder is to get the angle right. So that it is low enough to be ergonomic. If you look at an official JBC stand it is actually fullt adjustable to be as low as you want. Wheras some chinese clone JBC stands / equiplment on aliexpress are just - crap. They have the thing angled way too steep. Which is not comfortable from frequent usage and extended soldering sessions.
And boy are those JBC stands expensive. So yeah! Also just being really good (the stand) is difficult to make well. So you know... it's really something as a separate project (the holder for the handle) than the main controller unit. Would be best to split them up from each other I think. And tackle them one at a time.
AFAIK i am not aware of much considerations for the stand, that would affect the design of the main controller unit. Except for the detection of putting the handle in the cradle. Some switch or whatever they do. IDK how it works. But that seem the only thing to worry about (for ensuring that the main unit will properly support the feature on the cradle). And for it to work well! Not to be jank / or 'crap'/. For example if you were to have assumed and only support the reed switch method, or the mechanical switch method, or visa-versa.
- Should the PSU be integrated or be a separate laptop-style brick?
- insert your own idea here
Personally I am all for separate. And just a decent 24v DC input. That can be wired by decent terminal (not exclusively only by barrel jack). All the way. There are also those nice yellow DC high current plugs. Although again - not to have to assume that as a requirement. Just make it possible / though of.
24 DC input is more flexible. And lets users use for example their bench PSUs if they are in a pinch, or need to re-use the same PSU for multiple jobs. Which is what I am doing here.
That is not to say it's exclusive. Because you can just have a larger box version too, for those who do want an internal PSU. Since you already supported a beefy 2-wire termination aswell, right?
Right now, I'm in requirements gathering mode but I'm thinking that the design I end up with would be open source. The first PCBs would be bare boards and intrepid trailblazers could put their own components on in the beta phase.
Thank you +++1. You may have at least 1 beta test here in UK then.
I could also design a case (or the angled end on a KSGER-style case) for 3D printing, I'm really an electronics designer but it would be dumb not to consider the end design aims.
What do you guys think?
Its probably worth to research the best value 'standard' aluminium extruded box(es). And have those in mind when designing the PCB. For compatibiltiy reasons. To know that it is compatible with at least whichever 2-3 ones from aliexpress represent the best value / quality. For example like the ones being used by the existing KSGer / 'T12 OLED' stations. They are a kind of a standard size that can be bought for a few dollars on ali express. And OFC there might be even better ones. It's another side thing: more searching / research. No specific recommendations there from me though. IDK which ones, just vaguely remember seeing a few of them. Kind Regards.
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