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CFW for KSGER/Quicko STM32 Soldering Stations

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--- Quote from: DavidAlfa on December 11, 2023, 02:49:13 pm ---Where did those 8V came from?
About the JBC mod, did you isolate that pin on the connector? Otherwise it'll be GND.

--- End quote ---

I haven't been able to figure it out where the voltage into U6 is coming from.  It's 4V in and 8V out, I don't know how this is possible.  It's so hard to probe these boards, they are so small!  I can try probing around again and trying to understand the circuit more.  I was expecting to see 24V on one side, and 8V on the other with ground in the middle.  All I know for 100% sure is.. U6 outputs 8.04V into U2.  And U2 outputs 3.23V.  The 560 PRO mini buck converter outputs 3.28V.  I took a few extra readings for D2 and R14 and updated the pic, but it's possible that something has failed and that the voltages are wrong.  But when I took the initial readings, everything seemed to be working ok.

For JBC Mod, I haven't isolated any pins yet, currently I'm just trying to do the diagrams (to plan things out).  Isolating pin 4 should be easy because I probably won't use the right side of the PCB.. I will be using a panel mounted GX12 connector, probably at the rear.  With a 2.54mm JST XH connector soldered to the PCB and connecting to the GX12 connector.

Also.. I received the ST LINK in the mail and was able to successfully patch the firmware.  Instead of using buck converter, I now use ST LINK's 3.3V supply to power the board when playing around with the firmware or the menus.  It has worked 100% reliable doing this so far.  As long as the connectors don't fall off of the pins.

The only hard part about the firmware was that the ST LINK pin holes have 2mm spacing on this blue board, and the ST LINK cable connectors have wider spacing (they fit ok for the display pins).  I cut open a JST XH connector and took the pins out and soldered them to the PCB.  The way I made it work.. was that I only used the two inner pins and tried to jam the connectors in there tight.  And I used VDD 3.3V and Ground from the display pins.  Doing this.. the 2.0mm spacing wasn't an issue.  I've attached an updated pic of PCB with the pin outs for the ST LINK if anyone else wants to flash firmware on this board.  It is confirmed official STM32 chip.   :-+

I have to say.. this custom firmware is fantastic!  It was easy to flash, the batch file works well for making changes to it.. everything was fast and easy!  And even though I don't have any handles wired yet.. while it's idling.. the menus and everything is working very well.  The font looks good.  I've already made some changes to settings.c, so that it remembers my preferred settings so that I don't have to change them every time I flash.  And some small GUI changes customized for this specific display.  I'm using 250ms update delay and the display seems fine.

The firmware is great!  You've done a really great job David.. it's easy to understand why this thread has 150+ pages.  I also made a batch file, so if there is any firmware version upgrades, it can patch the tip profiles and settings preferences.  Power limit numbers, brightness settings, sleep mode settings etc.  The profiles and tip selection seem to work really well for switching between handles and tips.  This is only while idling with 0V on the 24V rail, but so far it's working well.  The UI looks good and the menus are easy to use.

That board is not in the list, can you reupload that image, but clean?
Enjoy the FW!  :-+

--- Quote from: Jono434 on December 14, 2023, 05:35:51 pm ---I haven't been able to figure it out where the voltage into U6 is coming from.

--- End quote ---
It's R14. 6R8? Drops some of the voltage so the LDO work is a bit easier.
Be very careful when probing these!
Specially around U2, a small mistake and you'll send 8V to the stm32 instead 3.3, boom!

For long time I hated the profile switching method, requiring several steps (MENU / SYSTEM / PROFILE).
So I added quick profile selection to the main screen.
- Perform clockwise drag-rotation to enter tip selection mode.
- Repeat drag-rotation (Any direction) to enter profile selection mode (T12, C210, C245).

New release: v.1.11.2.

A few new parts arrived via mail and it has helped a lot.  I received a microscope camera from AliExpress, from here.. with 1-130X Lens.

So I was able to take a new pic of the PCB for better detail.  The camera is only 1080p via USB connection, but it works in MPC-BE (my preferred Windows video player) and via keyboard shortcuts it can be rotated, zoomed, panned etc.  I've never used one of these before but I am very happy because I think the picture is good for the price.  Assuming you have good lighting (I use a combo of cheap AliExpress lamps).  And you also need to focus the lens for the sweet spot.  I am hoping that it makes the small components easier to work on.  I don't recommend getting it now, but during the sales.  The kind of sales where it's $6 off for every $30 spent.  You can split the order into 2 orders for example (for stand and lighting) and save $60 or more in total if you buy from the right stores.  It arrived in 14 days.

Also, a spare Blue PCB board arrived and the 8V mystery is solved.  The new board has 23.5V for the input pin of U6, so in the first board one of the components must have been faulty.  The first board never tested at the right voltages even at the beginning.  And after some probing, the voltages became even stranger.  Other voltages on that board test differently as well.. for example.. it has 1.4V for JCB Mod/T12+ pin during idle.  The new board has only a few hundred mV when idling.  I'm not sure which one is correct, but I assume it is the new board.  It's possible I did damage when probing, I am not 100% sure.  I only probed the 2 regulators and the JBC pin.  But everything else is working ok I think.

I have attached a new PCB pic, hopefully everything is correct now.  There is a blank PCB version, and a Mod Info version.. hopefully these can help others.  I was using a tshirt to update firmware instead of a silicone mat, apologies for any lint or fluff on the PCB.

I cut the trace for the output pin of U6 and the PCB quality doesn't feel cheap, it feels pretty good.  It wasn't easy to cut the trace, it took a bit of work.  I have read on other forums that this Blue PCB board gets very hot even with 8V into U2.  So the 560 Pro buck converter seems like a good option.  I will experiment with 5V or 3.3V and see which works better.  And make sure not to blow up STM32, that would not be good.


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