EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Other Equipment & Products => Topic started by: willd1971 on June 23, 2011, 11:39:10 am
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Is anyone interested in seeing more information inside and out of this compact 2 in 1 soldering station fresh from the manufacturer?
It features:
50W Soldering Iron with digital PID temperature control (hakko element and compatible tips)
~700W Hot air gun with fan in handle, again digital PID temperature control
Digital display of actual temperature
Rotary knob for hot air flow control
key pad for temperature adjust (hot air and iron)
It is rated at 230VAC and 6A
It is CE marked and the intended market is Europe and UK
Cost is around £80 plus P&P
William
www.labtronix.co.uk
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I would. I've seen look alikes sold in the USA too. It looks like a cross between Dave's Atten 858, a soldering iron, and the color scheme of Hakko.
Please trace the mains wiring and grounding as this is a problem on some Atten and its look alikes, as reported on eevblog.
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ok I'll try and do something over the weekend.
Incidentally, I can already confirm the following:
1. There is full earth continuity to the metal housing of the hot air gun
2. The protective fuse is fitted in line with live rather than neutral
3. There is a real 230V rated transformer in the unit - no dropping resistors here!
4. The fan in the hot air gun is positively located - not butchered into place
5. The hot air gun is captive to the unit, earlier builds had a connector which would be hazardous if disconnected with power on
Other details and pictures to follow...
William
www.labtronix.co.uk
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Thanks Willd1971, it should help inform us of its features and probably make sales for you too. Certainly beats getting unknowns from China.
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I've got an 898D and am very happy with it. The hot air tool works as advertised. I liked the soldering iron a lot at first - it heats up very quickly and is nice and light - but then broke the heating element by applying too much lateral pressure while solder wicking or something. Fortunately replacement elements are inexpensive and I'm more careful or use my other, more indestructible Dick Smith Electronics soldering station for heavier duty soldering operations.
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OK, here it is. I've tried to be unbiased but please note I'm selling these at labtronix.co.uk too!
First things first - who makes them and where are they from?
Well there are a number of labels selling what appears to be identical hardware. Certainly in the UK I've seen Kada, WEP, Saike, Yihua and maybe others. They all use the same product name such as 898D. So I investigated and found that Yihua at least, are original equipment manufacturers - I had them build a batch of 898BD+ units to order and they were shipped from China direct to UK. When you look inside a Yihua unit you should see the PCBs have Yihua printed on them. So the others may be re-badges, copies/clones, fakes, or genuine competitors, the internals may be identical or completely different - I can't comment further than that...
So the 898BD+, this is one of Yihua's high end units combining 50/60W soldering iron with approximately 700W hot air gun - you can see the spec sheets on my website here: http://labtronix.co.uk/drupal/shop/soldering/898bdplus
It features digital PID temperature control by way of a Samsung microcontroller and, I assume (because I haven't studied the circuit) some form of triac configuration to drive the heaters. There are PTC temperature sensors in both the soldering iron, and in the hot air gun - what's more they're connected and routed back to the control PCB!
The '+' part of the name designates that the soldering iron uses Hakko heating elements supposedly for greater service life - it also used to mean that the hot air gun was detachable, but since this proved to be a safety issue the hot air gun is now captive (note, some units with connectorised hot air guns are still offered on ebay etc - be wary of these since detaching the connector during use exposes mains terminals at mains voltage).
The box and what's in it:
(http://www.labtronix.co.uk/images/IMGP8416_web.jpg)
The product will be delivered double boxed with the shiny retail box in a tough cardboard outer - ideal for shipping.
The outer dimensions are 30cm x 19cm x 19cm and the gross weight is 3.3Kg - this makes economy delivery around the UK around £10.
As for what you get in this compact box see here:
(http://www.labtronix.co.uk/images/IMGP8417_web.jpg)
So there is:
The main control unit with captive mains lead,
The captive hot air gun,
The detached soldering iron with standard conical tip,
A boxed soldering iron stand with sponge,
3 assorted hot air nozzles,
An IC remover/manipulator,
A user manual,
This is all well packaged and squeezed into the box - note, once you have taken everything out of the box it's pretty tough trying to get everything back in with the lid closed!
First impressions for me were quite good with the exception of the soldering iron stand, to be honest this is rather light weight, missing rubber feet and the sponge included is thinner than the cheese in your Big Mac... but this isn't a show stopper, you can add some weight, attach rubber feet etc or cheaply pick up another stand, and there's alternatives to wet sponges - either way I let the manufacturer know my opinion!
(http://www.labtronix.co.uk/images/IMGP8421_web.jpg)
Initial impressions of the soldering iron (since it's in the picture above) are OK - cosmetic niggle is the finish of the body at the cable end - the cable relief fits fine and does the job but the end of the blue body is a little rough where the strain relief boot is fitted - there is a rubberised grip on the soldering iron which serves both to aid your grip and to protect you from heat - all parts forward of the rubber grip get warm (hot) in use!
Moving back to the system in general, there have been concerns about the safety of Chinese imports with respect to earth bonding. So, I don't have PAT testing kit, but the next best is to buzz out from the earth pin of the wall plug to any exposed metal parts. Being a CAT 1 device all exposed metal work needs to be earthed or protected by isolation from mains voltages under fault conditions (EN 60335-1). There's no picture to go with this just yet but further down we'll look inside. The shell of the main control unit is metallic with what appears to be a plasticised or textured paint finish - both inside and out, the upper inverted U shape form is screwed to the base chassis through the side wall using self tappers - the self tappers buzz out as you would hope so they are connected to earth. Likewise the end plates (front panel and back panel) of the unit are attached to the chassis and U form cover by 4 self tappers each - the end plates are painted and the front panel is also screen printed, causing both to be nominally insulating, but the retaining self tappers buzz out - so the front and back panels are also earthed as you might hope. However, I did note that the metal body of the circular connector for the soldering iron (on the front panel) is isolated from earth, this is probably due to paint work - opinions may divide as to whether this is a problem, I would prefer it to be earthed, but remember the soldering iron is low voltage and, if the internal mechanical layout eliminates any chance of mains voltage contacting the connector shell it would be compliant.
And now onto the earthing of peripherals - the soldering iron. The tip is obviously exposed metalwork, this buzzes out and is earthed, hopefully through some resistance to help with ESD protection (I forgot to measure this and will need to come back to it when I get the chance). The hot air gun nozzle is also exposed metalwork and 'phew' it buzzes out - whereas other brands have missed this, Yihua have done the correct thing here.
So, I am quite content that the design implementation has considered the need for proper earthing throughout the system.
Now I want to have a look inside. We're going to start with the main control unit looking at the following areas in particular:
1. Protective Device (device overload and fault current protection)
2. The transformer
3. Quality of soldering and manual processes
4. Quality of components and general design
5. Mechanical resilience of the shell and the assemblies mounted within
Protective device: This should be on the livewire coming from the mains input cable - there shouldn't be anything else in the circuit between the input and the fuse. The image below shows the mains input, the red/brown (live) wire goes straight to the fuse holder. It also shows the main earthing point which is a machine screw through the underside of the chassis, retaining the transformer and the mains input earth wire attached to a solder tag.
(http://www.labtronix.co.uk/images/IMGP8459_web.jpg)
The transformer: Well for the European market 230VAC is the nominal voltage, whereas Yihua supply 220VAC as standard - there's not much difference but a 220VAC transformer in Europe would drive slightly higher voltages at the secondaries than the 230VAC - which could have pros and cons in this application. I was interested to see how they were transforming - would there even be a magnetic transformer? Or would there be a sequence of dropping resistors (please no!), or a standard transformer with some bolt-on droppers to bodge it right....? So have a look below, you should just about make out 230VAC 50Hz on the rating label, which unless they stuck that there specially to appease me whilst continuing to fit a 220VAC transformer, then I'm happy (suppose I should measure rms at the secondaries - but I'll come back to that if there's doubt in the future):
(http://www.labtronix.co.uk/images/IMGP8460_web.jpg)
Quality of soldering and manual processes: In general the unit has been well assembled, however the quality of the soldering is not brilliant - this is most important around any mains wiring where I would have preferred crimped friction termination (but this is budget priced kit here). Although the joints appear sound I'm not sure all those stripped wires were fed through eyelets before solder was applied. Also the PCB (there's only one) is hand assembled (single sided copper with double sided thru hole component placement on what appears to be 1.6mm FR2), and again, the quality of assembly isn't brilliant - but is functional. Some may say the thru hole design is a bonus since it makes after sale maintenance and modification easy. Also note that except for earthing all terminations onto the PCB are connectorised - which is good.
The image below shows you the PCB stacked onto the back of the front panel. The front panel has weldon studs which are also used as the main earthing points for the circuit and the peripheral devices. Note that a separate earth cable is routed from the main earthing point in the unit to one of the earthing studs at the front panel - we are not relying on the screws which attach the front panel to the rest of the case to form the earth route. Also note that earth conductors for both the hot air gun and the soldering iron appear to be routed via cable direct to these earthing studs, rather than tracks on the PCB, which is good.
(http://www.labtronix.co.uk/images/IMGP8462_web.jpg)
Quality of components and design: Generally no problem, there's a lot of UL markings, so unless these are fake components the manufacturer is considering quality during design and sourcing. However, although the soldering iron cable is marked, the hot air gun cable is not - but it does feel rubberised and I think it's up to the job - I may try wafting the hot air gun over its own cable at some point to see what happens. I don't much like the in-line connector at the end of the soldering iron cable - the knurled nut is too thin for me to easily lock it onto the front panel connector - although the insertion depth is quite deep and there is a good positive fit.
The overall design is good - accessibility is good and the internal layout is simple. However, I would prefer an IEC mains inlet socket - but that would be adding to cost, So with a captive mains lead I would expect a decent amount of slack cable on the inside so the back panel could be removed easily - however, I found the amount of slack to be limited so it was quite difficult to get inside the back panel without removing the U form section of the main body.
Quality of mechanical build: Well, would this unit remain intact after 5 drops onto a hardwood floor from a height of 1m? I reckon it would, it might not work anymore, but it would stay intact, and the rules say that it only needs to stop any live parts from becoming exposed. Am I going to try it? Not planning to!
Now let's have a quick look inside the soldering iron and the hot air gun:
First thing to note is, if you break your soldering iron element, you will need a soldering iron to replace the broken element! (Could this be a strategy to double my sales?).
The Hakko element has 4 wires - 2 for power and 2 for temperature sensing. All 4 wires are connected to the in-handle PCB and are routed back to the main control unit. The connecting lead is well retained to the in-handle PCB by some serious mechanical crimping - not much hope of pulling the cable out by accident or in anger! The PCB also serves as the retainer when everything is reassembled, shoulders at the front end prevent any axial movement. Replacing the tip or fitting different tips is a simple, unscrew the retainer, slide off the old tip and insert the new tip - easy! Replacing the heating element will be more involved - but being Hakko they say it will last longer (than if it was not Hakko...).
(http://www.labtronix.co.uk/images/IMGP8451_web.jpg)
The hot air gun has a 3 part plastic casing, 2 halves of a shell for the main body and a screw on collar which fits over the nozzle. I can't see any markings on the mouldings to determine what material they are - however they are very well formed, they have a kind of soft and springy feel and yet feel rather strong. There are metal threaded inserts in the cable entry end to give durability during opening and closing for servicing. The interior includes a small distribution PCB beneath a low voltage impeller, both at the back end of the handle. Forward of this is the nozzle and heating element. The heating element includes a connected PTC temperature sensor at the business end, is wrapped in mica and inserted into the metal nozzle (either stainless steel or a plated steel). You can see 2 white blobs of glue in the handle, these are retaining a reed switch between them. This is used as part of the safety and automation function of the device - allows the system to detect if the air gun is in the holder or out of the holder! Also look at the second picture below, the conductor in white braid is the earth conductor welded to the side of the nozzle. Finally look at the 3rd image, this is looking into the nozzle outlet - it's blocked! Well I guess this is by design to circulate the air correctly around the heating element and maintains pressure before hot air finally escapes around the edge of the nozzle outlet. Also, it's a safety feature, you can't go sticking your screwdriver up there!
(http://www.labtronix.co.uk/images/IMGP8436_web.jpg)
(http://www.labtronix.co.uk/images/IMGP8437_web.jpg)
(http://www.labtronix.co.uk/images/IMGP8426_web.jpg)
Finally I should say something about function!
You can use both tools at the same time.
The hot air gun will not come on until you remove it from the holder - this is a good safety feature (ie., if it's lying on the carpet when you turn the machine on it won't turn on and burn the house down - if you want to burn the house down, pick up the hot air gun replace it in the holder, then remove it from the holder, at which point it will turn on according to the front panel temperature and air flow volume , then you can place it back on the carpet to burn the house down).
The hot air gun automatically cools down and turns off when you place it in the holder, it automatically comes on again when you remove it from the holder.
Both devices indicate nominal temperature on their own display indicators
Temperature set point can be adjusted up and down independently for each tool using the red buttons.
When you press any red button the corresponding temperature indicator changes from actual temperature to set point temperature until a couple of seconds after you stopped pressing buttons.
The air flow dial controls air flow from a minimum safe level to a maximum level in a pleasingly smooth way. Also, it's much quieter than diaphram pumps.
The unit hums a little during operation - that will be the big transformer inside.
There are safety cut-out features in the design, e.g., if the hot air gun goes over temperature because the fan stalled power is cut before anything disastrous happens - I haven't tested this but probably will during the next few days.
Finally, finally - the included manual is useless, even if it's in reasonable English it unfortunately makes no reference to the 898BD+, but seems to prefer the 899BD+, which is a different unit altogether - fortunately the safety messages are equally applicable, and as for operation - if you can't work out the interface of the 898BD+ you probably shouldn't be reading this thread :D
This unit and it's spares are available from me at http://www.labtronix.co.uk I ship to most European destinations and can fit a moulded European plug on request.
This was my first review, if I missed anything please ask me nicely and I'll do my best to update the post.
William
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More later, but that's a good tear down, thank you very much.
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Hakko element is good, they are $2-$3 more than those fake $1 Nichrome winding 'ceramic heater'. The Hakko element has heating tracks printed in the inside of the ceramic. Hakko element is mainly found in high-end grade A 936 clones (~$60). Nothing wrong with Nichrome windings but they just don't have the thermal response, ie don't heatup as fast.
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I finally had a moment to read the copy, and adjust the gamma on the photos to see the details better, and congratulate William for an excellent and thorough review, unusual for a vendor of a product. I think if anyone is concerned about the Atten 858D as reported elsewhere on eevblog, William certainly addresses many concerns. It reads there are more safety oversights with older models, review linked, than this model:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?topic=3237.msg43241#msg43241
I haven't completed my tear down of the WEP 858D I received but it would be interesting to contrast all these look alikes to see how they truly differ, at least on the hot air gun part.
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Thanks for your comments Saturation. Sorry about the pictures they looked ok on my screen but agree they are a little dark. I just want to point out that the reason I sell is mostly because I was frustrated in the UK that it was so difficult to get hold of far east brands from a repurable source, and I wanted to try them for my own lab work. I figured there would be other people like me who would probably have a go with some of these products if they didn't have to resort to risking a buy on ebay from 'goodluckseller' in China for example. And of course importing to the UK is an expensive business, even for 1 off customs want to know and charge their share of VAT and duty, not to mention handling fees.
Having read further on your other threads I think I will be PAT testing all these items before they go out the door, wonder if I should use an Atten PAT tester!!! ;D
William
http://www.labtronix.co.uk
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... The tip is obviously exposed metalwork, this buzzes out and is earthed, hopefully through some resistance to help with ESD protection ...
Found this: http://www.adafruit.com/datasheets/hakkospecs.pdf
The most lenient standards require less than 20 ohms. The least, MIL-STD-2000: < 2 ohms.
This will likely get more difficult to meet as the tip oxidizes.
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Hi people.
It's been a while since I started selling the YH-898BD+ and ripped one apart for you to look at. I thought it might be time for an update. I've sold quite a few units direct from my website and a few on Ebay too. So far no returns, the only problem encountered has been a broken heating element in the soldering iron on arrival, affecting 1 sale. This failure is relatively easy to repair. The general feedback has been positive, the impeller design of the hot air gun is generally seen as evolution in the right direction, quiet and efficient.
I will also point out, since writing-up the original review I decided to upgrade protective earth inside the unit because the connection points were not well bonded (rather loose and dirty with paint), so I remove the connection clean it up and then fasten to earthing stud between a nut and a nyloc nut. My next batch from Yihua should be up to spec direct from factory...
Best wishes
William
[url]http://www.labtronix.co.uk[url]
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Hi William,
so how about an EEV Blog christmas special? Like 898BD+ plus a range of extra tips?
/Kasper
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Hi Kasper,
I do carry some other tip shapes at Labtronix which ones interest you?
William
http://www.labtronix.co.uk (http://www.labtronix.co.uk)
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I received this soldering station few hours ago from labtronix,
rapid delivery and well packaged.
I play with the hot air and I'm satisfied but I have no experience
with this device (I'm used to burn-everything hot air gun :) ),
measured the nozzle temperature with a k thermocouple and the
indication seems correct over the range.
Now I'll check the soldering iron.
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FWIW, I ordered one a few weeks ago. Soldering with it* is a pleasure compared to the Maplins cheapies I've had before - I've never used a higher-end Weller or Hakko, but it's hard to imagine them being a great deal better, frankly. William was extremely helpful and understanding when the tiny intelligence built into the hot-air system proved greater than that of my tiny brain (my desk is crowded and the hot air gun wasn't making good enough contact with the magnets to switch on).
Labtronix is to be recommended, I'd say.
*I did a USBTinyISP in about half the time I expected. No SMD as yet, but the prospect is less scary now.
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Thanks for your recommendation Steff! Happy Christmas and merry new soldering.
William
www.labtronix.co.uk (http://www.labtronix.co.uk)
FWIW, I ordered one a few weeks ago. Soldering with it* is a pleasure compared to the Maplins cheapies I've had before - I've never used a higher-end Weller or Hakko, but it's hard to imagine them being a great deal better, frankly. William was extremely helpful and understanding when the tiny intelligence built into the hot-air system proved greater than that of my tiny brain (my desk is crowded and the hot air gun wasn't making good enough contact with the magnets to switch on).
Labtronix is to be recommended, I'd say.
*I did a USBTinyISP in about half the time I expected. No SMD as yet, but the prospect is less scary now.
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Hello everybody, I'm new to this forum and here there is my small contribution.
I purchased this station and started to play with it. I made only some tests,
but the real life use will be different, I'll know after some months of use :)
willd1971 posted the tear down of this soldering station and the impression
of build quality are good. For curiosity I checked the iron tip temperature and
I found a problem... more on this later :)
Following the tests I made, they are just for fun and cheaply made.
YiHUA 898BD+ and other two “cheap” stations.
The iron of this station shows one little problem and one big problem, fortunately the big one is easily fixed.
The little problem is that I think that the temperature visualization is “fake”.
The display show the setpoint but not the real temperature of the iron, at first I tough
that there was difference between measurement point and tip.
Later, while testing with k probe, it was clear that, when the operator changes the temperature setpoint,
the smooth transition doesn't reflect the real temperature. Just set the tip at 320°C, shut down the station,
let it cool, after switch it on, wait 3-4 seconds and bring the setpoint to 200°C, you will see the measured tip
temperature nicely rise to correct temp. and the display nicely transition from 320 to 200.
This is a nonsense, because the real temperature of the tip is very well regulated!
The big problem is: when this station arrived, the setpoint was wrong of about 100°C:
when I set it to 200°C it rapidly go to 305°C, and the temperature tracked the setpoint with 100°C offset.
After a pair of messages, William explained me how to fix the setpoint (wrong resistor and trimmer regulation)
and after few minutes the station was spot on at every temperature.
I think William will give more info on this issue, since he is trying also to contact the manufacturer,
(small lamentation following...)
William say them that they can sell these stations without displays, it's the same, plese make them
understand that it's easy to identify a "wrong" temperature on the display and a fake or modified display indication,
so if they want to be regarded as trustable manufacturers, simply put the real temperatures on the display
or the buyer will feel jocked >:(
(ok back to topic)
Temperature logging, and a little mod.
The problem of this soldering station triggered me to spend a little time trying to measure and log the
station temperature, and to make a comparation to the other two stations I have:
a chinese DM-916 marked station and an old Weller WHS 40.
Now I have a pair of multimeters with K-probe.
The problem was how to log the value on a pc.
One of the two instruments is an RLC meter marked PeakTech 5105N . Is has an SH7108H as measurement IC.
The datasheet of this IC talks about a serial out protocol.
So after some hours of work, I connected the pins of this IC to a board that I had for another task,
built around an ATMega88 and fitted with an LCD. And this board was connecter to the uart of the PC.
Most of the time spent was due to firmware. On the PC the RealTerm program allows me to easly log the data.
I made a fast temperature check and the probe indicated correctly the solder fusion temperature,
so the temp. error should be less than 20°C 8) .
Here the results.
Step test:
station setup to 200°C, off and cold.
Station on, wait 4 minutes
every 2 minutes change the temperature of 50°C to 350° and back to 200°C
The YiHUA tracks nicely the setpoint, the weller is a little "cold" and the DM-916
is a cannon, overshoots badly :)
Start test:
station setup to 320°C, off and cold
Station On, for 5 minutes
Station Off
Weller: slow and accurate
YiHUA: fast and accurate
DM-916: now it's clear the regulation: bang-bang :)
Soldering test :
station setup to 320°C, off and cold
Station On, after 2 minutes 5 solderings to 5 2.5mm^2 “electrician” cables tinned and cold
at the 4° minute station off.
This test is empirical, the soldering times were not the same
and it is more a sensation than real numbers.
WHS40: slow, delicate, but slow
YiHUA: reasonable, but I need to use it for some time to understand better
DM-916: now I understand why it seems so powerful... and really it
permits to make a fast series of heavy joints, just remember that
30 seconds after the every heavy joint it will skyrocket to dangerous temperatures.
In Italy we say "Maneggiare con cautela" : just be carefull :)
Now I'll try to understand how to post pictures.
--*** Merry Christmas to everybody ***--
Fabio.
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Hi Fabio,
Thanks for your feedback and work to evaluate these soldering stations. Since you have discovered this issue with the YH-898BD+ I will be ensuring each of my subsequent soldering station sales will be correctly calibrated for temperature. Anyone who has bought one of these units from me in the past and identifies or thinks they have a calibration issue is welcome to contact me so we can check and remedy. With regard to temperature display, I've noticed that sometimes the unit displays real temperature and sometimes it doesn't, typically real temperature is displayed when dropping from a higher setpoint to a lower setpoint, but when rising to and settling at a higher setpoint the display seems to be artificial, this is not such an issue when the unit is correctly calibrated. I will be discussing all this with the manufacturer. I'll also post more technical information later.
Happy Christmas!
William
www.labtronix.co.uk (http://www.labtronix.co.uk)
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i'm sorry if i choose the wrong thread, but i just bought Saike 898D, it looks exactly same like yihua 898d+,
but i'm not sure if this unit function correctly, because, after i use for 1 minutes, the air blow so slow, even i already change the speed dial.
SAIKE 898D
(http://www.goldraydigit.com/images/l/201109/13164829140.jpg)
how fast the air should blow from this hot gun?, do you guys have a video (youtube) for reference?, & is there any replacement for this fan blower?,
There are no problem with soldering unit.only this Hot air gun become hot air gun... :(
thanks you.
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/2960/sam2049e.jpg)
inside
(http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/3776/sam2052x.jpg)
blower fan
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I think I've got the 898D. The air blower works fine and the adjust knob works as expected. Contact the seller and see if you can get it swapped! Or if it looks like the fan itself is dead (e.g. you remove it from the gun, connect it to a power supply, and it doesn't spin up), you could ask for a replacement part.
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(http://i.imgur.com/VX2yc.jpg)
Is that positive wire connected properly? Looks like its not even connected?
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Hi ejal,
If you have tested the fan and found it to be dead and you don't get any help from your vendor, then I can probably supply you with a replacement out of my stock. Just contact me if you like.
Regards
William
www.labtronix.co.uk (http://www.labtronix.co.uk)
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This is a most excellent review and comparison! Thanks for making this available and your charts. Its a good way to compare these stations with newer stations like the FX888 or the WES51. Similar curves to yours can be found in the archives for some solder stations I've posted including Metal and JBC.
Hello everybody, I'm new to this forum and here there is my small contribution. [snip]
--*** Merry Christmas to everybody ***--
Fabio.
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The spec sheet says its output ~100L/min or so at rated power. I think its 24V ? mA. The question really is is the fan defective or is the driver circuit defective?
I found in my WEP 858D the fan speed is a simple pot that drops the voltage at the power output pins. If that works [ assuming the fan does not have a short circuit] then desolder the fan and test it separately and double check the output voltage. To quickly check a fan, a small plastic bag of known volume like a ziplock bag, and time how long it takes the fan to fill the bag. If its not rated at 100L/min or so, the fan is clearly damaged.
i'm sorry if i choose the wrong thread, but i just bought Saike 898D, it looks exactly same like yihua 898d+,
but i'm not sure if this unit function correctly, because, after i use for 1 minutes, the air blow so slow, even i already change the speed dial.
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This is a most excellent review and comparison! Thanks for making this available and your charts. Its a good way to compare these stations with newer stations like the FX888 or the WES51. Similar curves to yours can be found in the archives for some solder stations I've posted including Metal and JBC.
Hello everybody, I'm new to this forum and here there is my small contribution. [snip]
--*** Merry Christmas to everybody ***--
Fabio.
Thank you very much, but now I realize I have used test conditions that are not
"standard".
Often I needed good temperature recovery after heavy joints and usually
I work at 320°C or less so I tested that way .
My problem is a temperature datalogger that I dont' have and the peaktech returned
to it's original shape, I neet it for capacitors and inductors :)
Maybe in future If I'll have a logging thermometer I'll make better tests, also
on the hot air part of the YIhua, I dont' trust the display indication, I suspect
it's fake so one day or another I'll repeat some test :)
Fabio.
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No worries, Fabio, its fairly easy to interpolate your data to more standard manufacturer graphs. Nevertheless, even with possible variation in accuracy of equipment & measurement variation, the shape of the curves and response suggests the data you have is good and can easily be compared to other graphs stored on the archives.
I had to do mine manually, and did not have to time to provide a graph as you did.
This is a most excellent review and comparison! Thanks for making this available and your charts. Its a good way to compare these stations with newer stations like the FX888 or the WES51. Similar curves to yours can be found in the archives for some solder stations I've posted including Metal and JBC.
Hello everybody, I'm new to this forum and here there is my small contribution. [snip]
--*** Merry Christmas to everybody ***--
Fabio.
Thank you very much, but now I realize I have used test conditions that are not
"standard".
Often I needed good temperature recovery after heavy joints and usually
I work at 320°C or less so I tested that way .
My problem is a temperature datalogger that I dont' have and the peaktech returned
to it's original shape, I neet it for capacitors and inductors :)
Maybe in future If I'll have a logging thermometer I'll make better tests, also
on the hot air part of the YIhua, I dont' trust the display indication, I suspect
it's fake so one day or another I'll repeat some test :)
Fabio.
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I've ordered one of these as well - maybe a bit more expensive than the cheapest 852D clone, but seems much better. Time will tell!
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Hi guys,
One of my customers recently purchased this unit and has been trying to rework fairly large BGAs with some difficulty. I don't really get into that kind of thing myself - sots and msops do it for me! Does anyone here have any experience reworking larger components with this unit?
Thanks for sharing in advance :D
William
www.labtronix.co.uk (http://www.labtronix.co.uk)
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Hi guys,
One of my customers recently purchased this unit and has been trying to rework fairly large BGAs with some difficulty. I don't really get into that kind of thing myself - sots and msops do it for me! Does anyone here have any experience reworking larger components with this unit?
Thanks for sharing in advance :D
William
www.labtronix.co.uk (http://www.labtronix.co.uk)
I did a BGA , it's no problem really , either 1) you splash out on a BGA nozzle . 2) keep waving the hot air around , everytime you hear a small pop that's the solder ball melting .
-
Hi guys,
One of my customers recently purchased this unit and has been trying to rework fairly large BGAs with some difficulty. I don't really get into that kind of thing myself - sots and msops do it for me! Does anyone here have any experience reworking larger components with this unit?
Thanks for sharing in advance :D
William
www.labtronix.co.uk (http://www.labtronix.co.uk)
I did a BGA , it's no problem really , either 1) you splash out on a BGA nozzle . 2) keep waving the hot air around , everytime you hear a small pop that's the solder ball melting .
I hope that's not also the chip substrate delaminating from trapped moisture :o
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I've not tried BGA in my home lab, but I did work in the test facility next door to a production facility, where the technician needed to rework largish BGA packages. So I've seen it done and know how it's meant to be done.
I think it's pretty much essential to use a board preheater for any BGA of size - you need to get the board as hot as possible without risk of damage before using the hot air to just tip the solder over the edge.
One other thing that is really key is that you need to clamp the board - any bend or flex and as soon as the solder melts, the package will come off the board even more.
Is the person trying to fix Xboxes or Playstations?
BTW, I received the package today - very impressed at the build quality. Not used it yet.
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It seems like an excellent product. It's solid, looks safe, and works as expected. The temperature control is pretty good - I can't make any comment on the accuracy of the temperature, but it seems consistent on a given setting for both the hot air and the iron. The fan is quiet at all speeds.
There is maybe one exception to this - the moulded 13A plug has a very loose fuse cover. I thought fuses needed to be in a carrier i.e. if you undo the cover, it pulls the fuse out with it.
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Hello Cybergibbons... thanks for comments, I'll have a look at the power lead later - I've not noticed an issue previously, but must admit I haven't been so concerned with that end of the power lead till now!
William
www.labtronix.co.uk (http://www.labtronix.co.uk)
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Hi Dave.S the hot air heating element I supply does indeed come with replacement mica sleeve.
William
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Hello Cybergibbons... thanks for comments, I'll have a look at the power lead later - I've not noticed an issue previously, but must admit I haven't been so concerned with that end of the power lead till now!
Just to follow up on this - I thought that the plug was a bit odd, as most (all bar two out of almost thirty) have captive fuse carriers i.e. when I pull out the cover, the fuse comes with it:
(http://www.flameport.com/electric/plugs/class2_moulded_plug2_T.jpg)
However, I do have a couple of the other style that have been provided with European manufactured goods:
(http://www.flameport.com/electric/plugs/class1_moulded_plug2_T.jpg)
It just seems that the fuse with the Yihua is narrower than most fuses, so the cover comes away more easily. It doesn't come away during normal use and is perfectly safe.
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just a quick post to add that i'm another satisfied customer.
Quick reply on emails and product is 100% as described in this post.
Looks like excellent value for money to me!
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I have this unit purchased from Labtronix,.
I had first class service, good communication when I had a minor problem with the soldering iron and it was replaced straight away.
I did not have to return the other iron which saved hassle and postage. Really good genuine service.
Thanks William.
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I didn't purchased from Labtronix,.
But my Iron have an issue and with manual it is hard to trouble shoot. Maybe someone can help me. My replacement iron I got from Ebay heat up non stop, but tempeture at 6 and 7 only. It heat so much that metal tube around the ceramic also glow red. The ristance for pin 1 and 2 show 15ohm and 4 and 5 show 2.5ohm.
If there something wrong with the unit or am I using the wrong replacement Iron? The blow gun side work fine.
>>>>>
I had first class service, good communication when I had a minor problem with the soldering iron and it was replaced straight away.
>>>
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Either 2 pins are totally wrong ... sorry you got a dud
Oops. I forgot it's 24-27V
15ohms most likely the sensor
2.5ohms = 24V*2.5= 9.6amps ... i don't think the transformer can supply so much eh? I think something's shorted to mains
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Like I said I bought the replacement iron from ebay. The plug fit the 898d, it heat up but does not stop heating. The temperature display only 6-7 degree. The heating element they included was this a1322. Attached is a picture. I tried putting a resistors to get the sensor to 45 ohm. For 1-2 seconds it show 90 degree.
Last night I switch the 2 ohm To the 1 and 2 pins the wire touching the board started smoking and turn red. The heating is 15 ohm. Can someone tell me the ohm reading on their iron? I don't,then know. If my workstation is broken.
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the Yihua 898BD i got from william has a 6 pin connector, not 5
if done a quick check of the R of the tip and that's 3.7 ohm, the sensor is for the moment 50 ohm
you have the doc's to check the tip, so if the tip is ok (and has the correct cabling...) then the problem is at the station...
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maybe the Bd is different from the one I have 898D+ (5 pin for iron). This picture is one similar to what I have execpt the Iron.
Pin #3 is hook to the ground (spring thing around the heater). I tested the Ohm for the tip and pin 3 is 2 ohm.
I might have wrong iron since the sensor is the wrong ohm, but does not rule out the main part still might have issue.
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Hello babyhanzo,
I have the same unit as yours and my iron got very red but the temperature kept at 60-61 degrees. I bought another iron but the problem persist so it's the mother board.
Did you finally found a solution for your problem?
Thank you very much.
Ernesto Pareja
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Like I said I bought the replacement iron from ebay. The plug fit the 898d, it heat up but does not stop heating. The temperature display only 6-7 degree. The heating element they included was this a1322. Attached is a picture. I tried putting a resistors to get the sensor to 45 ohm. For 1-2 seconds it show 90 degree.
Last night I switch the 2 ohm To the 1 and 2 pins the wire touching the board started smoking and turn red. The heating is 15 ohm. Can someone tell me the ohm reading on their iron? I don't,then know. If my workstation is broken.
Hi babyhanzo.
I have similar to yours soldering station Best 898D+ with cheapest Nichrom-Iron heating element, so you are bought wrong heating element which is ceramic heating element. Discussed here Yihua 898BD+ also use these Hakko's a1322 ceramic heater. Also temperature measuring sensors used in both heating elements is different. In Nichrom heater is used thermocouple sensor, while in Hakko element is used thermistor for temperature measurement. Therefore your soldering station can't measure properly temperature and show only 6-7 degree on display.
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Hello, I'm new to this forum. Hoping someone can help.
I recently bought a WEP 898D, but temperature up button is not working, nothing is happens. It's going to cost me $15 to ship it back to the seller. Wondering if anyone has an idea of what is wrong.
Thank you.
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Check soldering of tactile switch on pcb. Is possible to be not properly soldering or defect switch. My Best 898D which i think is the same as yours wep is another Yihua clone. When I bought my soldering station I also had the problem with fan control. It didn't work at all. The prroblem was that some Chinese guy or girl had forgotten to solder a 4.3k resistor on pcb. But as always the put QC passed sticker for quality control passed :-DD
Also if someone is interesting in custom made MCU control for these chinese soldeing station i found some great threads in another Russian electronics forum radiokot.
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Open it up and post some pictures.
It can be something as simple as the button not being soldered properly on the board, or maybe they forgot to solder a resistor that's inline with the button and limits the current going to the controller.
Some pictures may help point out to you what's out of place or what looks faulty.
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Yes, please post the link, I'd be interested to see what they've done.
http://radiokot.ru/lab/controller/ (http://radiokot.ru/lab/controller/)
Check soldering of tactile switch on pcb. Is possible to be not properly soldering or defect switch. My Best 898D which i think is the same as yours wep is another Yihua clone. When I bought my soldering station I also had the problem with fan control. It didn't work at all. The prroblem was that some Chinese guy or girl had forgotten to solder a 4.3k resistor on pcb. But as always the put QC passed sticker for quality control passed :-DD
Also if someone is interesting in custom made MCU control for these chinese soldeing station i found some great threads in another Russian electronics forum radiokot.
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Yes, please post the link, I'd be interested to see what they've done.
http://radiokot.ru/lab/controller/ (http://radiokot.ru/lab/controller/)
OK. Here is main article in google translate: http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=bg&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fradiokot.ru%2Flab%2Fcontroller%2F32%2F&act=url (http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=bg&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fradiokot.ru%2Flab%2Fcontroller%2F32%2F&act=url)
The main forum threads are here:
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=bg&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fradiokot.ru%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D25%26t%3D8505 (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=bg&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fradiokot.ru%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D25%26t%3D8505)
and
http://radiokot.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=44436&start=0 (http://radiokot.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=44436&start=0)
In Russia they have more spread the Lukey 852D+ and 868 rework stations. Also I found another great review about chinese rework stations in another Rusian website "easyelectronics.ru" here:
Part1: http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=bg&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwe.easyelectronics.ru%2FTools%2Fobzor-payalnyh-stanciy-lukey-otzyv-na-lukey-868-chast-1-iz-4.html (http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=bg&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwe.easyelectronics.ru%2FTools%2Fobzor-payalnyh-stanciy-lukey-otzyv-na-lukey-868-chast-1-iz-4.html)
Part 2: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=bg&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwe.easyelectronics.ru%2FTools%2Fobzor-payalnyh-stanciy-lukey-otzyv-na-lukey-868-chast-2-iz-4.html (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=bg&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwe.easyelectronics.ru%2FTools%2Fobzor-payalnyh-stanciy-lukey-otzyv-na-lukey-868-chast-2-iz-4.html)
Part 3: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=bg&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwe.easyelectronics.ru%2FTools%2Fobzor-payalnyh-stanciy-lukey-otzyv-na-lukey-868-chast-3-iz-4.html (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=bg&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwe.easyelectronics.ru%2FTools%2Fobzor-payalnyh-stanciy-lukey-otzyv-na-lukey-868-chast-3-iz-4.html)
Part 4: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=bg&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwe.easyelectronics.ru%2FTools%2Fobzor-payalnyh-stanciy-lukey-otzyv-na-lukey-868-chast-4-iz-4.html (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=bg&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwe.easyelectronics.ru%2FTools%2Fobzor-payalnyh-stanciy-lukey-otzyv-na-lukey-868-chast-4-iz-4.html)
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Here are the pictures of the board. Thank you all.
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Here are the pictures of the board. Thank you all.
I think this PCB is the same as mine. If you can confirm if they used the Samsung MCU therefore they are the same.
Some time ago I was take a shots of my PCB board and if I can find them I will post them here for reference.
Aslso tactile switches of front panel are soldered on the another side of the showed PCB.
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Thank you.
Anyway, I lost interest in this tool and shipped it back to the seller.
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If anyone can help me...
I got my station yesterday. Hot gun is working properly, but I have problem with soldering iron. Iron doesn't warming... On display is constantly 000 or 001 and dot is blinking constantly. Anyone knows what is the problem? :( :( :( Station is brand new!
Thank you in advance.
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Thanks for this review. I was looking at an 898D on eBay and was wondering if these were cheap pieces of crap. Now that I see it's got the seal of approval of at least a couple of eevblog residents, I can buy with confidence.
I want to start getting into SMD, and this seems as good a time as any.
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Hello everyone.
I purchased an 898D+ from ebay last week, opened it up before switching on to check grounding etc - the board looked a bit shoddy, but nothing that stood out as dangerous or unfinished.
I used the iron and heat gun a few times in the last few days, and was quite impressed with it (my long running soldering gear was a really cheap iron and gun that have lasted me a good 10 years, surprisingly (you know, those cheap red ones available everywhere).
Anyhow, I switched it on today to do some work and... nothing. Checked the fuse: blown. Had a look at the main board: a resistor has died.
Here's a pic of the damage:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/SquidgyB/IMG_20130811_014001.jpg)
Can anyone tell me the value of this resistor?
Also, if anyone has working knowledge of the circuit - what does this resistor do and what would be the likely cause of it's demise?
I have the option of returning the unit, as it's been with me less than a week. Of course, if I can repair it myself (and be sure that the same issue won't crop up again) I will do that to save time and money. On the other hand, if there's another defect which might be causing this problem, maybe it would be best to send it back.
Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hey. Only slightly off-topic but for those who are students/hobbyists (like me), a few months back a friend bought me the 937D Yihua soldering station -- which seems to be GREAT value for the price. It comes with 5 or 6 different tips and, at least for me, has been a great soldering station. It also came with a spare heating element, which is great. The tips are the same as a certain popular Hakko model so you can easily use the real Hakko quality ones. I'm going to check right now and see if my heating elements are Hakko as well...
Hmmm.. hard to tell. They have their specs printed on them but no company name. They feel good but with a heating tip who the hell can tell? More experienced eyes than mine, for sure.
showing the partially disassembled iron and the spare parts, spare heater on left (http://neepic.net/12124)
another shot of the same thing (http://neepic.net/12125)
Unit first switched on and showing 320 degress C (http://neepic.net/12126)
Unit starting to heat up to 320 degrees. Notice the heating light is on and it now shows 97 as it climbs towards 320 (http://neepic.net/12127)
Cheap stand as mentioned in OP (http://neepic.net/12128) I jam extra tips and the scissor heatsink (which came with my old iron) into the holes around the edge... can't see any other purpose for those holes! I've never wetted the sponge as I have a steel wool cleaner (which you can see behind).
My impression of this unit (which cost around $55 CDN, delivered) is that while it may be a bit on the cheap side, it's done me very good so far. It goes waaaay beyond any temp setting I'd need. There is a similar version to the OP's that is black like mine but also has a heat gun. They also make a three-function one that has a built-in power supply!! I'd love to see THAT torn down, the power supply seems like a bit of an afterthought. Who knows though -- occasionally Chinese cheapies surprise me with their build quality.
If anyone is interested I can pop open my machine and take photos to compare.
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Hello everyone.
I purchased an 898D+ from ebay last week, opened it up before switching on to check grounding etc - the board looked a bit shoddy, but nothing that stood out as dangerous or unfinished.
I used the iron and heat gun a few times in the last few days, and was quite impressed with it (my long running soldering gear was a really cheap iron and gun that have lasted me a good 10 years, surprisingly (you know, those cheap red ones available everywhere).
Anyhow, I switched it on today to do some work and... nothing. Checked the fuse: blown. Had a look at the main board: a resistor has died.
Here's a pic of the damage:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/SquidgyB/IMG_20130811_014001.jpg)
Can anyone tell me the value of this resistor?
Also, if anyone has working knowledge of the circuit - what does this resistor do and what would be the likely cause of it's demise?
I have the option of returning the unit, as it's been with me less than a week. Of course, if I can repair it myself (and be sure that the same issue won't crop up again) I will do that to save time and money. On the other hand, if there's another defect which might be causing this problem, maybe it would be best to send it back.
Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.
I can open and view the value of resistor of mine BEB BD898 which use the same pcb. If someone interested I also can post the input measurement circuit of Soldering iron to MCU and some temperature graphs of temperature control which I measured after some tests. They don't use linear control so is little tricky to calibrate the iron.
Also inside in soldering iron is used the J type thermocouple for temperature measurements. For best calibration I made little mod of mine station.
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Hi,
I received a Yihua 939D a few weeks ago from an eBay vendor for $60 shipped:eBay auction: #360660367111
It supposedly has a 75w transformer, but I'm still waiting for some test tools to arrive in the mail. Other than a different iron holder and the Hakko rippoff yellow and blue colour scheme, I bet the only difference is the transformer and maybe different firmware. It's probably a good idea to replace the tip and heating element with Hakko ones, at least the iron lead has silicone insulation though. The soldering on the controller PCB looked OK to me, but I definitely plan to add a proper IEC power connector and a crimped transformer ground connector, and also remove the nasty flux residue. It has "temp" written as "tomp" on the BS heat recovery graph, but it definitely did the job when I was broke and needed a new iron. I'll post some pictures next week so we can do a comparison!
Hey. Only slightly off-topic but for those who are students/hobbyists (like me), a few months back a friend bought me the 937D Yihua soldering station -- which seems to be GREAT value for the price. It comes with 5 or 6 different tips and, at least for me, has been a great soldering station. It also came with a spare heating element, which is great. The tips are the same as a certain popular Hakko model so you can easily use the real Hakko quality ones. I'm going to check right now and see if my heating elements are Hakko as well...
Hmmm.. hard to tell. They have their specs printed on them but no company name. They feel good but with a heating tip who the hell can tell? More experienced eyes than mine, for sure.
showing the partially disassembled iron and the spare parts, spare heater on left (http://neepic.net/12124)
another shot of the same thing (http://neepic.net/12125)
Unit first switched on and showing 320 degress C (http://neepic.net/12126)
Unit starting to heat up to 320 degrees. Notice the heating light is on and it now shows 97 as it climbs towards 320 (http://neepic.net/12127)
Cheap stand as mentioned in OP (http://neepic.net/12128) I jam extra tips and the scissor heatsink (which came with my old iron) into the holes around the edge... can't see any other purpose for those holes! I've never wetted the sponge as I have a steel wool cleaner (which you can see behind).
My impression of this unit (which cost around $55 CDN, delivered) is that while it may be a bit on the cheap side, it's done me very good so far. It goes waaaay beyond any temp setting I'd need. There is a similar version to the OP's that is black like mine but also has a heat gun. They also make a three-function one that has a built-in power supply!! I'd love to see THAT torn down, the power supply seems like a bit of an afterthought. Who knows though -- occasionally Chinese cheapies surprise me with their build quality.
If anyone is interested I can pop open my machine and take photos to compare.
-
-snip-
Thanks mate, I managed to find the value (from low res pics on another thread in this site, and what was left of the printed value under the scorch marks) - it's a 120k jobby. I wired two 60k's in series and it's working fine now, though I've managed to break the glass reed switch on the heat gun while having a look around - I'll get another from Maplin tomorrow.
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Our workshop in Moscow was next door to a big dealer of this chinese stuff - Luckey/Aoyue/Net/Sunkko etc. We had two such dual soldering stations from them, customized with best available spare parts by their red-eyed repair man (that poor guy was working days and nights fixing that wonderful stuff, now I can see they started selling entire control PCBs for $10-15 as spare parts). I can say that hot air part was ok, but soldering irons were crap even after installing "original Hakko" heaters/tips - there was high heat resistanse between tip and heater (just try how easy the unscrewed tip falls off the heater - there is a big gap), resulting in tip sticking to big thermal masses (tip's heat capacity is enough for initial solder melting, but heat transfer is not enough to sustain the melting state), ugly "soviet" irons were more efficient :D
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Can anyone tell me what size fuse this thing takes? I pulled the old one out and the only thing I can read off it is 250v. The amperage is completely unreadable. Thanks for any help you can provide
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Mine was 13 Amp.
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Is yours a USA 110v version? or a 220v?
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220v European/UK (fuse was marked 13A 250V iirc)
-
would it be the same fuse for a 110v version?
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Turns out I have a US version on my spares shelf (never got around to clearing space for the extra workstation after I did the teardown/check -- you know how life can be)
Mine has an F6AL250V (6A), which is what shipped from the warehouse.
Let me add that the plastic of the fuse cover is the softest I've ever seen in that application. Just removing it with a proper-sized Phillips chewed it up a bit -- and it wasn't even tight! Be gentle!
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I can say that hot air part was ok, but soldering irons were crap even after installing "original Hakko" heaters/tips - there was high heat resistanse between tip and heater (just try how easy the unscrewed tip falls off the heater - there is a big gap), resulting in tip sticking to big thermal masses (tip's heat capacity is enough for initial solder melting, but heat transfer is not enough to sustain the melting state), ugly "soviet" irons were more efficient :D
It's wasteful, I wonder if oversized tolerance between the metal tip and ceramic heating element was caused by bad reverse engineering / supplied specs, or if the metal tips were manufactured without following the specs (bad machining). These cheap tips are made with inferior metal, but they would be good enough for most purposes if they were sized properly!
I've modified a real Hakko iron, and it's far more consistent and reliable. If a vendor sold tips that properly fit the cheap/counterfeit heating elements, I think they would make a lot of money!
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It's wasteful, I wonder if oversized tolerance between the metal tip and ceramic heating element was caused by bad reverse engineering / supplied specs, or if the metal tips were manufactured without following the specs (bad machining). These cheap tips are made with inferior metal, but they would be good enough for most purposes if they were sized properly!
I've modified a real Hakko iron, and it's far more consistent and reliable. If a vendor sold tips that properly fit the cheap/counterfeit heating elements, I think they would make a lot of money!
Assuming the base is cloned perfectly (which I doubt about it), you still need both "good" heating element and "good" tip in order to get proper temperature regulation and tip's heat recovery speed, check the discussions here :
-> Genuine vs fake Hakko heater (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-936-ceramic-heater-a1321).
-> Genuine vs fake Hakko tip (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-solder-tip)
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Assuming the base is cloned perfectly (which I doubt about it), you still need both "good" heating element and "good" tip in order to get proper temperature regulation and tip's heat recovery speed, check the discussions here :
-> Genuine vs fake Hakko heater (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-936-ceramic-heater-a1321).
-> Genuine vs fake Hakko tip (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/genuine-vs-fake-hakko-solder-tip)
You're right, I worded that too simply. Nothing compares to a properly designed and built device, but if some of the obvious physical flaws were fixed, these cheap clones could be more suitable for basic household use. Buy something with a garbage solder joint? Fix it with a $30 soldering station. I meant for general purpose, mass-market, versus soldering irons that barely have electronics in them. It's too bad that Chinese clones of decent soldering stations/irons could burn a house to the ground, or cause people to end their electronics hobby. Just wait until standardisation is forced on these manufacturers, it'll be scary! No more fake "CE" cymbols, real standards for exported electrical appliances.
Thanks for the links though, I'll pay more attention.
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Well, folks, I have a new failure mode for you:
A few weeks ago, I took my Yihua 898D+ (which had been torn down and tested on arrival, but never seriously used) off the shelf to check the fuse spec for another EEVblogger (a few posts back). I commented on how soft the plastic of the screw on plug was. Turns out it was cheaper than I knew.
I grabbed it today as I headed out the door to do a simple repair on my 2yo niece's favorite electronic stuffed animal, but when I got there, only the soldering iron worked. I figured it might be a magnetic switch issue in thr hot air handle holder, but when I got home, neither handle worked. The fuse checked out and a quick once-over of the internals revealed nothing wrong.
After several wasted minutes, I narrowed it down to the fuseholder itself, and sure enough, the inner thread of the fuseholder was a cheap thin piece of stamped nonferrous metal that has torn free of its solder tab by the simple act of unscrewing the fuse. On close examination, it appeared to have been partly nicked/cut, either by accident or as part of its manufacture, and tore the rest of the way when I removed/replaced the fuse. I don't know how common this will turn out to be.
It's simple enough matter to replace the fuse holder. I remain unconcerned, but I thought I'd let you know. Sometimes simple things like a failed fuseholder are hard to diagnose.
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I observe that momentarily turning on the hot air switch and then immediately turning the hot air switch off causes the heating element to come on and continue to heat while the cooling fan blows. If all 898D stations behave this way, I would like to know why it was designed this way. The power to the heating element should be removed immediately when the hot air power switch is turned off.