Author Topic: KSGER Hot Air Soldering Station  (Read 4856 times)

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Offline 0xPIT

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KSGER Hot Air Soldering Station
« on: March 02, 2018, 09:19:48 am »

does anyone have a KSGER Hot Air Soldering Station [1]?

This feels stupid, but I seem to have problems with it: No matter at what temperature (tried 300-480°C) and no matter how long (tried 2-6 mins) I'll blow at some chip on some old PCB, the solder will not soften. I've tried to desolder some SOIC8 and some larger RAMs, all with pins. If I blow at regular 0,7mm solder (leaded and lead-free), it will melt, as will solder paste.

It seems that the handle and heating element are the same as in the 858+ stations.

Anyone any hint as to why I'm too stupid to desolder with this piece?

  - pit


Offline thm_w

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Re: KSGER Hot Air Soldering Station
« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2018, 11:03:49 pm »
Didn't know they had come out with these, looks like they could be a slight improvement over the 858D with a better and compact controller.

Do you have a thermocouple to measure the output air temperature? Just hold it about 1cm past the tip and see how well it agrees with the controller display.

For removing chips, set the flow rate to 80% or more, and put on the second largest or largest round tip thats shown in the photo. That should be plenty to heat up most PCBs.

Offline 0xPIT

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Re: KSGER Hot Air Soldering Station
« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2018, 11:11:02 am »
Yes, I got it because of the small size, my lab desk is full :)

Thanks for you help, bigger nozzle and more airflow helped, I did not expect that.
Strangely, almost no YouTube video mentions temperature and airflow.

Offline kripton2035

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Re: KSGER Hot Air Soldering Station
« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2018, 11:21:08 am »
these stations have a pretty nice look !

Offline Hergen Lehmann

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Re: KSGER Hot Air Soldering Station
« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2018, 11:25:43 am »
I bought one of these a few weeks ago, but unfortunately the controller box gave up with a bang and smoke after only 10minutes of operation.

Further analysis showed several construction errors:

1. The heater is operated at mains voltage with only very thin wires running through the handpiece cable. As only one input terminal is fused, there is a 50-50 chance that unfused live ends up on wires not suitable to carry short circuit current (at least in countries using a reversible mains plug).

2. There was a wiring error (unsure, whether in the handpiece or the control unit), resulting into the PE from the heater shell running back and forth through the heater thermocouple before actually reaching ground in the control box.

3. To make things even worse, the ground connection further runs through a very thin PCB track on the power board before finally reaching the PE input terminal.

4. There is no thermal runaway protection.

My unit seems to have failed from some kind of short circuit in the heater, leading to a burned up ground PCB track (3), leading to mains voltage reaching the control circuit, and finally blowing up almost everything on the control board. :-(

So be careful with these! You should at least check the wiring and add a proper PE/ground connection. A second fuse to limit the current flow in case of a heater failure may also be a good idea.

Offline JonasCz

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Re: KSGER Hot Air Soldering Station
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2021, 09:01:29 am »
Not sure if it's OK to revive old threads here, but..

In addition to what Hergen Lehmann mentioned above, there are further flaws that I've discovered:

* The metal case is not connected to ground / PE

* The ground connection to the handle actually is not only though a trace on the power supply board, but also through a trace on the display / control board.

* The socket for the handle connection is wrong IMO: it has the male pins exposed with the handle disconnected (50/50 chance of having mains on them if you live in a country with reversible plugs)

The fuse is 5A, so it should blow if there's a short in the heater, but if you're in a country with reversible plugs, and you happen have the live coming in on the non-fused side, in case of a sort to ground you'll be relying on your house breaker / RCD to turn off the power.

IMO, buy something else.

Offline mastershake

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Re: KSGER Hot Air Soldering Station
« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2021, 12:00:29 am »
there are 2 totally different versions of these. i have both. one is much more reliable then the other. the issue is you dont know which you will receive when you order one. one has a very different psu board controller wise and the other is a totally separate psu and controller. the totally separate one i have used for nearly a year without issues where the other model did not last very long maybe a week or so if that. depending on which one you have you can buy replacement boards for them from one of the sellers on aliexpress. any pics of the one you have? here is the first version and this is the other version
« Last Edit: March 30, 2021, 12:02:39 am by mastershake »

Offline RayRay

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Re: KSGER Hot Air Soldering Station
« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2021, 02:12:28 am »
any pics of the one you have?
I know this isn't geared at me, but just in case someone wanna know how to do things properly, this is what I have:


The PSU board doesn't directly touch the enclosure (which is metal), it's held in with plastic spacers, screws and nuts (I drilled 4MM holes with precision for that purpose), I've also drilled a side hole (for grounding) and used a flat screwdriver to expose the metal around it (the enclosure itself is painted with non-conductive black paint, so this had to be done). The spacers themselves are hollow (non-threaded) so I've done is, I've manually put in each screw & spacer, then taped it at the bottom with kapton tape, placed the PSU board on it, locked it up with the nuts, and then removed the kapton. I've used a 20AWG silicone wire for the AC & ON/OFF switch. There are 3 wires with terminal loops (for grounding) and the terminals are both soldered & crimped and connect to  the side screw and locked in with a nut (one coming from the grounding AC pin, one coming from the PSU board, soldered to the DC minus, also with a 20AWG, and one coming from the controller, which goes to the tip). The way I've had it grounded, it's full on AC/DC (even a short in the DC would trigger the grounding & breaker). On the PSU board, right side is the live wire, left is the neutral (although, with this particular board, it'd work either way) the only thing that really matters is that the switch is wired with the live wire. The micky mouse power input is not fused (but the PSU board is). Anyways, I've had my first PSU board working like a champ for 3 years straight (recently had to replace it, as it crapped out, the display started to flicker on and off out of nowhere) this was resolved after replacing it of course!

Some of the parts used (well most of em, except for the grounding screw & loop terminals I already had in store):

This one didn't properly align with the controller's display (had to use small needle files to slightly expand the encoder hole to the left for that, so the encoder itself is a bit off aligned due to that, but as long as the display's good, I don't mind it)

PSU Board:

T12 Kit (standard led controller+iron):
Do note that newer versions of this controller comes with the 3PIN connector facing the top, from the display's side (instead of side ways from the back, like in mine) and this may require soldering the wires directly from the other end (with the provided enclosure) due to not having enough clearance to close it.

Extra handle with better precision (for SMD work):

12MM M3 screws:

M3 Nuts:

4MM Plastic Spacers:

Hope someone would find this useful when building their own T12!
I personally prefer the plain T12 controller over the OLED one.

Edit: Just realized I've mistakenly thought this thread was about their T12  |O
But nevertheless, I'm sure the above will be useful :)
« Last Edit: March 30, 2021, 02:43:29 am by RayRay »

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