Youyue 858D+ some reverse engineering + custom firmware

[sunkmail]

Hi Again,

I managed to trace out all the controller connections.
      (I didn't bother with the PS components.)


It appears that the EastSoft uC, HR7P169BFGTF Chip does have ISP pins brought out the the pin header, J1.


From what I can see on @DGM 's  compatibility chart, this chip hasn't been fully traced out before, so I'm guessing there isn't a compatible version of the custom firmware yet.

I don't think replacing the controller is going to be as easy as a daughterboard going into a DIP socket....
     Does anyone have experience programming these devices?
     How hard would it be to port the custom code?

Thanks!

[cinealfa]

I have finally assembled my MK1841D3 conversion board, and it works like a champ.  Thank you madworm for your awesome firmware, and wguibas for the MK1841D3 layout.

Now if you only included the component values.....

[cinealfa]

Since the original poster went Mia  and his pm box won't accept any more messages. I have found all of the relevant information Located here:
>https://hackaday.com/2017/05/25/hack-your-hot-air-station/< I do not know it if it the same individual who designed the board (I suspect not given their lack of follow up) but he provided all of the missing information that OP neglected to provide here. Hope it helps someone. It sure did me.

[Miti]

Recently I bought an almost brand new Yihua 858D on Kijiji, a site similar to Craigslist, for $55 CAD. Overall decent quality, the fuse and switch are on the live wire, the wand is properly grounded, no complains. I tried to calibrate it, it works pretty well for the temperature you calibrate at , but the other end is not really accurate. Therefore I calibrated it around 380C, the temperature that I will probably use most of the time to solder/desolder parts. Close to the lower end 200C it is lower by about 10C, and close to the upper end 450C it is higher by about 5C, so no big deal. It does overshoots when changing the temperature by about +/- 30C, but it stabilizes in about 30 seconds to a minute and is reasonably stable after that, about +/- 2 - 3C.
One issue that I found was that one wire that goes to the triac was reversed, so the triac was on the neutral line rather than live. I swapped the contacts in the connector housing as I want the heater in the wand to be at zero volts when it is in the cradle.
When I bought it I hoped that it is similar to Youyue and I can hack it, and it is but also has some differences:
1. The display is common anode.
2. The optocoupler that controls the triac is drived through an NPN transistor, rather that directly from MCU port, so the control is inverted.
3. The thermocouple amplifier (LM358) is supplied with 5V only, there's no negative voltage on the board.
4. There's no fan voltage sense to the MCU.
5. UP and DOWN buttons inputs are shared with the LED display segments B and F.

The MCU map is:

Pin     Function
1        GND
2        LED E
3        LED D
4        NC
5        LED DP
6        LED C
7        LED G
8        LED A
9        LED F shared with DOWN SW
10      LED B shared with UP SW
11      Triac Drive (positive logic)
12      REED SW
13      TC Temp
14      CON7 Pin (Not sure what this is for)
15      NC
16      FAN ON/OFF
17      DIG3 +
18      DIG2 +
19      DIG1 +
20      +5V

@ madworm
If I make an adapter from S3F94C4EZZ to Mega328P, could you help with the SW changes? Display and triac polarity is easy, I may need some help with the temperature measurement and buttons.

Thanks,
Miti

[Miti]

More pictures.

[oskimac]

Hi, recently i bought the KSD858DP  from amazon and the desssssssssssssssssiptions said 220/110v
 but the back of the unit has a label  "input 110v~ power 700w"
should i plug to 220v? or it will blow

[ROSCH76]

Hey guys,

any news for the KSD858DP Rev B with HR7P169BFGTF ?

greetings from germany

[oskimac]

Is yours 220?

[ROSCH76]

yes 220.

i see sunkmail already mapped out all connections. will it somehow be possible to use custom firmware on this board ?

Hi Again,

I managed to trace out all the controller connections.
      (I didn't bother with the PS components.)


It appears that the EastSoft uC, HR7P169BFGTF Chip does have ISP pins brought out the the pin header, J1.


From what I can see on @DGM 's  compatibility chart, this chip hasn't been fully traced out before, so I'm guessing there isn't a compatible version of the custom firmware yet.

I don't think replacing the controller is going to be as easy as a daughterboard going into a DIP socket....
     Does anyone have experience programming these devices?
     How hard would it be to port the custom code?

Thanks!

[TechieTX]

I just picked up a Yaogong 858D, mostly 'cos the ad showed the back of the board and I saw a DIP-20 micro.  Nope!  Bogus pic, it's got the 858D.PCB 2018.05.02 board in it.  On the plus side, it has a fused IEC connector, and it looks pretty clean at the power entry.  Some sloppy workmanship that I'd be embarrassed to have done, but I kinda expected that.  It passes a basic safety inspection.

I've been reading this thread on and off but haven't seen if anyone did an open-source bare board with an AVR micro that I can order.  I figured the folks here can't possibly do worse than the Chinese.  I googled Oshpark and only got a hit on the adapter boards, except for something from a person named Maker(something).  I didn't look that one up.    Same story on EasyEDA, same newbie.  I don't see anything here except this thread for mods.

[zakk]

I still haven't worked out what the micro on the HYQ8588D marked board is, but I have finally gotten around to tracing out and drawing up the board.

All capacitors with a " ? " in the value field are unknown (presumed to be 100nF) as I'm too lazy to remove one and measure it.
There might be a mistake or two, but it's overall accurate.

I did remove the micro and noted that the underside has " 18CNAZOB e3" printed on it, but that naturally returns zero hits on google.
Any advice on identifying it would be highly appreciated.

[Mareus]

I have found that cheap spare pcb's are available. Ideal for a mod, it's always possible to go back. I don't know which versions of the boards are sold, maybe anyone knows?: https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-pcb-858d.html?seoChannel=wholesale&trafficChannel=seo&d=y&SearchText=pcb+858d&ltype=wholesale&SortType=price_asc&groupsort=1&CatId=0&page=1

//edit
I bought this hot air station and this this spare board. I'm now waiting for delivery.

//edit 2
I received the 858D. I opened it up to check out the wiring, also,  I needed to replace the UK plug for an European one. I could only find one issue: the tab of the TIP122 transistor wasn't properly soldered down to the pcb, so I fixed that. It seems that I got a good clone. It uses smd parts and it even has isolation slots. Also, the software is updated.  The display now shows the actual temperature.

I also have this "858DT.PCM" from 2020-06 in my unit. I am a little bit worried that the PCB itself is not grounded despite that 220V AC is going to the PCB. Is there any reasonable and safe way to also ground the PCB? Where should I attach a wire? Thank you very much for your help.

Best regards,
Mareus

[kelavpp]

Hi guys! I'm professional electronics but not much in coding. So if you'd be kind, someone to CHANGE THE SKETCH for COMMON CATHODE DISPLAY, it would be very nice and helpful to me. I'm using Atmega328P. I have dozen of those displays common cathode, so I would not like to buy another one specially for this

[kelavpp]

Hi Mareus. The power supply should be grounded to 'minus' point somewhere. Should be grounded the wand too, inside should be a wire attached to the metal part of the wand

[greezlee]

Hy, guys!

I bought from Aliexpress a 858D digital PCB board for my heat gun control panel. (220v Digital display desoldering circuit IC pull  Heat gun control panel 858d circuit PCB board temperature control board https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNzAIc9).

The board I received is different fron the one in the Aliexpress a ounce pictures.

I don't know what is the use of the F/C Sw from the left corner. Do you know it's use? Please help me!

Many thanks!

[sunkmail]

I don't know what is the use of the F/C Sw from the left corner. Do you know it's use? Please help me!

Just a guess -  Set display to Celsius or Fahrenheit ?

[shuum]

Recently I bought an almost brand new Yihua 858D on Kijiji ...
If I make an adapter from S3F94C4EZZ to Mega328P, could you help with the SW changes?

i bought yihua858d recently,i want t try custom firmware to this unit but it has different layout and components.

I have the same hot air station as yours. Did you manage to convert it to use a microcontroller from ATMEL? Thnx

P.S. Or maybe you managed to find a circuit diagram for this revision (YH858D_V14)?

[shuum]

I decided to take the first steps: adapted the original 1.46 firmware, drew a diagram and spread the board taking into account the peculiarities of YH858D_V14 (for example, I had to make a hole in the board for an electrolytic capacitor).
The circuitry of this revision of the board is very similar to this but not completely (more info here and here)! You can read about the principles on which the FAN speed MOD works here.

• Version 1.0 full Altium 21 project: here
• Gerber files of adapter board: here
• Gerber files of FAN speed MOD board: here
• Firmware (updated at september 12, 2021) with enabled LED heater indication, FAN speed MOD and FAN purge MOD (not calibrated, with source): here
• Brief connection instructions with FAN purge MOD circuit diagram: here

Because the circuit diagram of the FAN speed MOD completely repeats that of the madworm, then the mod should be configured according to its instructions. I'm writing code in Microchip Studio with installed plugin Visual Micro and program with AVRISP mkII with this MOD (fuses here).

You can quickly and inexpensively order these boards v.1.0 here:
   https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/W297402ASG6_gerber_adapter.html
   https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/W297402ASG7_Gerber_FAN_speed_MOD.html

Because in the process of assembling and adjusting this solution, I identified some shortcomings (bugs), namely:

• The pins of the potentiometers on the FAN speed MOD board are reversed (be careful when wiring potentiometers to the board);
• FAN purge MOD is made by surface mounting;
• There is no standard TTL wire connection point PB1 for FAN purge MOD;
• There are no external pull-up resistors at the reed switch input in the stand and buttons too (in version 1.0, you have to bypass the internal pull-up resistor, which is not very good).

Then I developed the next version 1.1 of the solution, you can download full Altium 21 project: here (and here if you don't have Altium). Attention! This version was not tested by me in hardware. I am quite satisfied with version 1.0, but maybe it will be useful to someone. Version 1.1 uses the same firmware as version 1.0.

P.S. I express my deepest gratitude to the respected @madworm and @Miti, because without their developments, everything would have become much more complicated.
P.P.S. I apologize for the comments in the code in Russian, but this is my native language.

[kenzo42]

Has anyone gotten this board and successfully modded it?