Drake SPR-4 Shortwave Receiver

[xrunner]

I never could afford this one as a kid but I ran across one on Ebay, so I went for it. It uses crystals for each 500 kHz range, but is still a highly regarded receiver. This one has the original crystals for the major shortwave broadcasting bands, as well as additional ones that cover the ham bands.

You can see the actual unit in the pic, complete with icky blueish LEDs. I'll be restoring the original lighting look as best I can, as well as taking a lot of pictures. Surprisingly, except for the outside and typical shots of the top and bottom chassis, there aren't a lot of detailed pictures available for different parts of the circuits.

I'll also do a complete alignment and detailed cleanup. Should be here by next Wed., so consider this a placeholder for the time being. 

[xrunner]

After Googling I think I found the retrofit lights that are in the SPR-4 (but won't know for sure till mid-week when I get it). They might be these designs -

http://www.radiolabworks.com/products/4linelamps/4linelamp.html

However, after looking at a whole lot of pics of this radio and others that have the original blue, they sure don't look like the right color to me. 

In any case - more to come ...

[Stray Electron]

  FWIW I found shorted caps in the Drake receiver that I inherited.

[xrunner]

  FWIW I found shorted caps in the Drake receiver that I inherited.

What model Drake was it?

This one is working fine (well it was before it shipped) so hopefully it will survive the trip. I do plan on replacing electrolytics though.

[Stray Electron]

  An R-8 if I recall correctly.  It's packed up and I haven't touched it in years. I replaced it with a Racal RA-6790 and now it's developed problems too 

[xrunner]

  An R-8 if I recall correctly.  It's packed up and I haven't touched it in years. I replaced it with a Racal RA-6790 and now it's developed problems too 

Oh OK, yea that was one of their more modern receivers. You should unpack it and see if it still works. 

Still waiting on the SPR-4. I did some research on the serial number from this database -

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeSNDatabase-P2.htm

SPR-4    Receiver    0134    May 25, 1970
SPR-4    Receiver    1652    Feb 07, 1972
SPR-4    Receiver    2193    Sep 02, 1972
SPR-4    Receiver    4331    Feb 20, 1975
SPR-4    Receiver    5973    Nov 10, 1976
SPR-4    Receiver    6289    Apr 26, 1977
SPR-4    Receiver    6318    May 18, 1977

The unit I'm getting (see pic) SN 3881, appears to have been made between 1972 and 1975, just about the time I was wanting one as a kid. Pretty cool. 

[Specmaster]

After Googling I think I found the retrofit lights that are in the SPR-4 (but won't know for sure till mid-week when I get it). They might be these designs -

http://www.radiolabworks.com/products/4linelamps/4linelamp.html

However, after looking at a whole lot of pics of this radio and others that have the original blue, they sure don't look like the right color to me. 

In any case - more to come ...

Personally I think that the before modification photo is much more readable then the after photo, I thought I'd throw my in views on it just in case.

[bd139]

Agree.

I'd go as far to say that blue LEDs are a visual cancer on this planet IMHO. I rather like an incandescent lamp.

[xrunner]

Thank you for your comments.

Personally I think that the before modification photo is much more readable then the after photo, I thought I'd throw my in views on it just in case.

I agree 100% Specmaster. There's a slight chance its a "camera thing" and the blue LEDs don't really look that bad. But I doubt it.

Agree.

I'd go as far to say that blue LEDs are a visual cancer on this planet IMHO. I rather like an incandescent lamp.

There will be NO blue LEDs in it after I'm done bd139 - rest assured.  We'll just have to see how it goes as far as other options. Even using original lamps isn't out of the question. From the schematic they are type 47 bulbs rated @ 6.3 VAC 150 mA. I'll order some type 47 bulbs just to see what we have as far as the original look.

From what I understand, they are trying to compensate for the original plastic tint piece losing it's color over the years. The root problem is really the plastic tinting parts, not the lamps (unless you want to get rid of the heat they produce). The best option would be to replicate the blue plastic parts. I'd rather call the color turquoise, after looking at a t lot of pictures of the Drake line from back then. They used the same color in their other units such as the ham radio line receivers and transmitters. There might even be a part for my 3D printer to play in this, as I've seen turquoiuse filament for sale ... wouldn't that be interesting. 

Original Color Examples:

[xrunner]

I got the Drake SPR-4 today and it's in very good shape. I really receives great but the blue LEDs look pretty bad. I will be posting the inside pics soon, and looking to see what we've got going on inside. Then I'll do a complete alignment and get that backlighting looking the way it was meant to be. 

[Kosmic]

I agree with everybody, the blue LEDs are weird and make the scales harder to see. I really like the original light though.

[bd139]

Looks like it’s in pretty good condition 

[Specmaster]

I agree with everybody, the blue LEDs are weird and make the scales harder to see. I really like the original light though.

Could be worse though, they could be purple 

[xrunner]

Here's the first set of pics for reference. Mostly looks good. I did find a resistor soldered only at one end, and a capacitor in the same condition. Will investigate these. Also a narly electrolytic. Those all will be replaced, as well as tantalums.

[Specmaster]

It looks as if someone has been in there before, some very dodgy looking joints there. The 4th and 5th crystals don't look to be fully seated in their sockets either. Apart from that I like the way that each section has its own pcb, makes it easier to a full recap etc board by board. 

[PA0PBZ]

Interesting noise blanker you got there 

[bd139]

Looks pretty good inside. The thing will be easy to debug at least as each bit of the signal chain is separate.

[xrunner]

It looks as if someone has been in there before, some very dodgy looking joints there. The 4th and 5th crystals don't look to be fully seated in their sockets either. Apart from that I like the way that each section has its own pcb, makes it easier to a full recap etc board by board. 

I found out what the capacitor and resistor with loose ends were for. The capacitor is OK to be there, it is connected across the loop antenna jack (I do not have the loop antenna). I do not know why it was disconnected, it may have popped off. I re-soldered it.

The resistor too is OK to be there, it is an optional mod the user can install at those terminals to control the AVC time constant. The SPR-4 comes with no resistor or wire connected across those terminals. The user was experimenting with a 3.2 Megohm value which is a valid value in the range indicated in the manual. They obviously didn't keep it connected. I will remove it for now and experiment with that later.

For today I replaced three electrolytics and one tantalum on the audio board. All went well. The wires you see next to the old caps were what the assemblers used as tie wraps, back in the day. I will replace some of them to keep it vintage.

Next board - please step up to the soldering station. 

Interesting noise blanker you got there 

Yea, that board is rare and I do not have it. 

Looks pretty good inside. The thing will be easy to debug at least as each bit of the signal chain is separate.

Yes it's old school and pretty open to troubleshoot.

[xrunner]

Removed all knobs and removed the front panel. Cleaned all lexan dials. All the original felt panel "spacers" simply turned to dust when touched. Removed with alcohol and replaced with new felt dots.

The filter cap for the power supply has a couple of electrolytics in a can - 500 uF & 1000 uF. Found a small company that custom makes them. I ordered the replacement can cap, may take 5 - 10 days.

[bd139]

Looking good 

I have “drake” added to my eBay search list now 

[Specmaster]

The lighting colour is so much better now and wonderfully clear to read to.

[xrunner]

Thanks for the comments! 

SPR-4 calibration oscillator and S-Meter

Jumped over to the 100 kHz calibration oscillator and replaced the 10 uF tant cap on it. I had to replace the speaker cable too. I didn't want to lose the original plug but I had little choice - the internal connections of the sealed plug were just too far gone and causing intermittent audio. I dug through my audio cable box and found a gray color that matched pretty well and replaced it with that.

I removed the S-Meter for cleaning. You can see that they achieved the tinting by wrapping a piece of blue film around the side next to the lamp. It's held on by some sort of paper tape around the rest of the housing, which had yellowed. I took it all off and re-worked it, using white electricians tape to hold it. You can also see the grease on display on the shaft below the S-Meter. 

I think I'll take a quick look at the S-Meter calibration because all the readings seem too high when I've scanned the bands, be they actual signals or just the noise level.

[bd139]

Awesome work 

There’s something sexy about those big 100Khz calibrator crystals. I keep bidding on them here but they go for silly money

[Specmaster]

@Xrunner, very good indeed so far, looking forward to seeing the completed item and seeing how it performs. The 10uF tant, replaced because its a "bastard tant" or because it is duff?

[xrunner]

@Xrunner, very good indeed so far, looking forward to seeing the completed item and seeing how it performs. The 10uF tant, replaced because its a "bastard tant" or because it is duff?

Just replacing them for peace of mind you know - S.O.P. here. 

I ran into an interesting issue trying to cal the S-Meter per their procedure. I will have more on that when I figure out a better way perhaps tomorrow. 

This thread is for future reference for hopefully many people outside the EEVBlog who are searching for SPR-4 information. I found some out there, but some of what I'm experiencing and will experience hasn't been written about on the internet as far as I've seen. So I hope it will help a few people with these radios. I'm sure all the alignment procedures have much more to keep me on my toes besides the run-in today with the S-Meter procedure.

 

[xrunner]

Thought I'd do a quick check of the S-Meter accuracy, and did the little calibration procedure from the alignment procedure shown in the attachment. I used the Agilent 8648A to inject the 10,000 uV  signal at the antenna terminals. I suppose they liked to use that type of nomenclature back then but in effect it is close to -27 dBm at the ant. terminal (~50 ohm). Then you're supposed to adjust for 4.5 volts on a terminal ...

But, after doing the adjustments the way they say, the metering accuracy sucks, even knowing that many S-Meters aren't that great anyway. Everything seemed to be biased way too high. I know this because I compared it to the standard S-Meter set points in the attached document "Signal Level Strength Meter Calibration and IARU" and my Icom IC-7300, switching the same antenna back and forth.

So I said to myself  "Why don't we just calibrate the actual S-Meter directly, using known set points to it's scale? That's what the scale on it is for." A crazy idea but it just might work. 

So what I did was tuned in WWV @ 10 MHz on the 7300 and noted the average S-Meter reading, and then tuned off a bit and read the noise level. I then calibrated the SPR-4 to those settings using the two pots in the instructions while it was tuned to WWV. Well, that resulted in pretty good S-Meter readings.

I then compared the S-Meter response to the set points in the document using the Agilent as the antenna input and it really compared quite well. S9, which is supposed to be -73 dBm, resulted in the meter reading just a tad above S9, and the readings below S9 tracked within reason. Readings above S9 were off a little but fell within the expectations of this type of simple circuit.

So, I don't know who wrote or transcribed that S-Meter cal procedure but it doesn't work very well as far as I'm concerned. I suspect I'll be running into more as I go on that will require a certain amount of common sense to be substituted for what is written. 

[bd139]

Think that's standard operating procedure for radios. Had the same experience with a Howes kit I bought ages ago and the K2.

[xrunner]

I hadn't seen any measurements of the accuracy of the crystals in the SPR-4, so I did some quick checks just for fun.

Due to the mixing scheme employed, the crystals are 11.09 MHz greater than the resultant MHz band. So for the 1 MHz band crystal you have 1.0 + 11.09 = 12.09 MHz, etc. Anyway, the results of some of the crystals are shown in the screen shot of the spreadsheet.

I hope to proceed with the alignments very soon.

[xrunner]

Drake SPR-4 50 kHz IF Alignment

I'm consulting some notes gathered from this link -

http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/drakemod/drmod101.html

These are my notes on the procedure shown in the attachment from the SPR-4 manual - 50 kHz IF, BFO, and LC Filter Alignment. I took a pic of the bottom of the radio before I started. It shows the original setting of many things. If you need to you can refer back to it. Most adjustment screws and coils are not very far from the original position. You radio may be different - take a picture before you start, you won't be sorry!

• Refer to annotated schematic for helpful circuit points highlighted for you
• You need some tuning sticks, especially one with an open slotted end for the L11 - L14 transformers. If you don't have them stop now and go to Ebay ... they look like the tools in the attached pic.
• Do not connect a "VTVM", a.k.a. modern DMM to the AVC line due to it's high impedance, I tried it and it completely changed it's response. Look at the S-Meter instead. You can also look at the signal at the output of T-16 with a scope.
• Use headphones to listen for a zero beat
• T15 and T16 are very broad tuning. In fact I hardly noticed any change as I went through the entire range of each one, so I just went back to the original setting
• Otherwise the procedure is straightforward

[bd139]

nice 

Interesting schematic. Dead simple filter. Watch those early dual gate MOSFETs though. They have no protection diodes. Look at them wrong and they're gone!

[xrunner]

nice 

Interesting schematic. Dead simple filter. Watch those early dual gate MOSFETs though. They have no protection diodes. Look at them wrong and they're gone!

Oh yea I'm being extremely careful. 

Yet another part of the project involves the dial decals. Back in the day when you bought a new crystal for a 500 kHz band segment it came with a new decal for the selector knob display. I have three new crystals coming from Ebay sellers, which do not have decals - 8.0, 8.5, and 25 MHz. The 8 - 9 MHz band has some utility signals like WEFAX that I want to send to my PC later for decoding. As you can see from the pics, the additional decals that were added a long time ago do not look very good now either. However the original printing does look very good.

I initially thought to add them with clear labels from my TZ tape label maker, but even the smallest font size is too large. The next thing to try is clear sticky label sheets for the ink jet. I found a pack on Ebay A4 size, which I ordered.

Will get back to this mini-project a little later ... 

[xrunner]

Drake SPR-4 5.645 MHz IF Alignment

The procedure is straight forward. T8 & T9 are critical and need to be carefully adjusted. Again use the S-Meter not the AVC voltage.

I did run into a problem however. There are two crystals - 5.595 & 5.695 MHz that are to be adjusted with trimmers C115 (LSB) & C113 (USB). You are told to adjust for "zero beat'. Two problems arose. One is that is was very difficult to hear the exact zero beat. The other was that when I though it was near zero beat both trimmers were at maximum clockwise rotation (maximum capacitance). There should have been a range through which the trimmers would go and not max out at a maximum physical rotation.

I decided rather to examine the frequency generation using a more exact means. I just used a small pickup coil placed near the board and fed it into my spectrum analyzer. when I did that I found that the LSB could be adjusted very accurately and I was able to get it from 56 Hz off to nearly zero Hz off (which indeed was almost maxed out).

The USB adjustment was truly maxed out. It could not be adjusted any closer than 56 Hz (max clockwise rotation). Since this was also max capacitance it indicated to me that adding a few more pF in parallel it should allow it to be adjusted better. I picked a 10 pF cap and temporarily tacked it in place across C113. This proved to be a good value. I was then able to back it out and then adjust it through the zero position.

Like I said before, this procedure was written 45 years ago and things were done a little differently then. Also this procedure was included in the owner's manual and written so that many people without more advanced test equipment could do some of the procedures. If you have a nice set of test equipment, you can do a little better.

[Specmaster]

Good fix, all working nicely now?

[bd139]

Nice job 

Also nice QSL card collection hiding there. Still waiting for my first batch. Takes bloody forever via RSGB and I’m not doing eQSL or LOTW. I’ve got one damn QSL card so far sent direct.

[xrunner]

Good fix, all working nicely now?

Apparently it's working OK Specmaster, I lashed up a Signalink to it and the computer. It's receiving a weather fax from NOAA station NMG out of New Orleans on 8.504 MHz pic attached. 

Nice job 

Also nice QSL card collection hiding there. Still waiting for my first batch. Takes bloody forever via RSGB and I’m not doing eQSL or LOTW. I’ve got one damn QSL card so far sent direct.

Yea direct QSL cards take a long time and can cost money too. I've also lost quite a few in the mail system of several countries such as the likes of Venezuala and several African countries (you know who you are).  But it's still cool to get a "real" QSL from another country. Hope to work you some day so I can send you one! 

Here's another pic of more on the wall. Also a letter from your neck of the woods with a QSL card in it from some DXpedition I worked. I guess I should open it this evening LOL. 

[Specmaster]

Cool, I see that you have some RGB LED strip running along beneath your shelf, I got some to under mine but before I got them installed I also got a Dlink 4 drive NAS which just happens to be same height so I cant now use the LEDs in that location 

[bd139]

Good fix, all working nicely now?

Apparently it's working OK Specmaster, I lashed up a Signalink to it and the computer. It's receiving a weather fax from NOAA station NMG out of New Orleans on 8.504 MHz pic attached. 

Nice job 

Also nice QSL card collection hiding there. Still waiting for my first batch. Takes bloody forever via RSGB and I’m not doing eQSL or LOTW. I’ve got one damn QSL card so far sent direct.

Yea direct QSL cards take a long time and can cost money too. I've also lost quite a few in the mail system of several countries such as the likes of Venezuala and several African countries (you know who you are).  But it's still cool to get a "real" QSL from another country. Hope to work you some day so I can send you one! 

Here's another pic of more on the wall. Also a letter from your neck of the woods with a QSL card in it from some DXpedition I worked. I guess I should open it this evening LOL. 

Nice shack. Drake fits in there rather nicely. Excellent work. Nice to see a good old rig doing something useful as well 

That’s a cool collection. I’ve heard things about bad postal systems. One of my South African friends was telling me a story about the ZA post office and they said they deliver 99% of all packages. This turns out statistically speaking they can lose about 5 million a year then  .  I wonder if they get opened as the old “send a dollar” thing is still well known. Fingers crossed we’ll catch a QSO. Probably not until I get a new house and a beam 

[xrunner]

.  I wonder if they get opened as the old “send a dollar” thing is still well known. Fingers crossed we’ll catch a QSO. Probably not until I get a new house and a beam 

The way I send for a card is to write their address on the envelope with NO ham callsign - and some of the addresses are, shall we say, extremely odd (to me at least). I enclose my SASE with the green stamps (dollar bills) and my QSL card. I then put in a piece of black craft paper the same size as the inside of the envelope, so it's near impossible to shine a light through it. In the US we put a Global Forever stamp on the international letter. That is the best you can do. If it gets stolen you know you've done your best. Wait 5 or 6 months and see what happens.

 

As far as the SPR-4, the to-do list is -

• Install new phono jacks for the antenna and speaker - both are well worn out. Parts should arrive in the next few days.
• Make new stick-on labels for the crystal dial selector. I have been working on a word processing file that will duplicate the font and spacing very closely. All I have to do is print it on the clear label sheet and test fit it. I will make the file available of course
• Install a new can capacitor (1000 uF / 500 uF) which should also arrive soon.

I hope this thread will be referenced in the coming years, and I can be of help to anyone restoring one of these. I know from past threads I've done on Tektronix plug-ins and other repair projects, going back and looking at the # of views of the pictures after a year or so, that people do come here and look at your work. They don't post anything, but I think they do help people searching for information. 

[Specmaster]

So its almost completed, well done so far. It looks to be almost new now and fits right in with your bench 

[xrunner]

So its almost completed, well done so far. It looks to be almost new now and fits right in with your bench 

Yep getting close to done. Today I got the replacement phono jacks. They look almost identical and are Switchcraft 3501FP RCA Chassis Panel Jack obtained from an Ebay seller. The only difference was the new ones went to a metric sized nut, but I chose to go with the original nuts for consistency with the other original jacks. Pretty easy job replacing them. Now I got a nice tight fit for the antenna and speaker. 

[xrunner]

The can cap just shipped today. Also I obtained a new set of dial inlays, hey they were only $8 

[xrunner]

I received the custom made can cap for the SPR-4 from Hayseed Hamfest LLC. Well I have to say, it's really a work of art. I don't think I've ever taken this many pics of a capacitor before LOL. But here it is!

 

[bd139]

That's a pretty nice bit of work that is actually. I've seen them before on YT videos usually but not up close like that.

I'm pretty lazy and cheap with those things though. If they haven't leaked I usually snip the terminals off the bottom and chuck new radial ones under the chassis

[xrunner]

That's a pretty nice bit of work that is actually. I've seen them before on YT videos usually but not up close like that.

I'm pretty lazy and cheap with those things though. If they haven't leaked I usually snip the terminals off the bottom and chuck new radial ones under the chassis

Yea that would work just as well of course, but this is special. 

Shoot, I almost don't even want to install it, it looks so freakin' nice. But, it'll go in tomorrow morning. That way I can admire it all evening. 

[xrunner]

Few more items:

Found a cracked tantalum - replaced.

Installed new knob inlays. Very clean look and no scratches.

New can capacitor installed.

I received the A4 size sheets of clear label material for ink jet printers. I will be working on the new stickers for the crystal selector control to replace some of the faded ones and also to add for several new crystals.

I also added a new SWL antenna outside. I had a long wire in the attic which was almost useless. Now I can have a dedicated antenna for any stand-alone receivers.

[xrunner]

We're pretty much down to the cosmetics now. I pulled all the original stickers off the dial (the basic frequencies it came with from the factory are permanently marked). They were stuck on very well but I managed to get them off and cleaned the residue with alcohol.

I pulled out some of the crystals that needed to be re-ordered from low to high and put them back in the radio way I wanted them to appear on the dial.

I then tried a printout of the new labels using the clear label paper and they appear to be good looking.

I also made a template from some plastic that I will use to draw around the labels and cut them out.

To be continued ...

[KK6IL]

I had an early SPR-4, S/N 304 as I recall.  after a few months, dial lights kept burning out. Found out the zener diode in the voltage regulator was open circuit and the regulator was putting about 18 volts on the 12 V line.  Analyzed the circuit and found there was more than 1 watt power dissipated in the zener, which looked like a 400 mW size. Changed the 47 ohm resistor supplying the zener with a higher value and never had any more trouble.

Made a mod to the mode switch so that the BFO was off and AM detector output selected with an added front panel toggle switch when in USB/LSB, so that AM stations could be listened to with the narrower SSB bandwidth. 

Have an MSR-2 now. http://www.jlkolb.cts.com/

John

[xrunner]

I had an early SPR-4, S/N 304 as I recall.  after a few months, dial lights kept burning out. Found out the zener diode in the voltage regulator was open circuit and the regulator was putting about 18 volts on the 12 V line.  Analyzed the circuit and found there was more than 1 watt power dissipated in the zener, which looked like a 400 mW size. Changed the 47 ohm resistor supplying the zener with a higher value and never had any more trouble.

That's strange in that the lamps (in this unit) are powered directly from the transformer (AC) and do not depend on the DC voltage. I don't know why that would have caused them to burn out, unless the early units were different. I only have the one schematic.

I made a little light table from a LED panel so I could trace out the little template from the back of the printout. I then used a razor blade and steel ruler to cut out the labels for the crystal selector. I applied the labels to the empty dial slots. As you look at the dial, the original printing is to the right of the center, and the new labels are the center and to the left. I think they look pretty good.

I did notice that after I changed out the main power supply capacitor, the S-Meter seemed to be uncalibrated from my previous tweaking. After wondering what I did wrong , I realized that the DC voltage wasn't exactly the same as it was, which wasn't a big deal except for the S-Meter circuit, which is very sensitive to the supply voltage. So all I did was do a quick recalibration using the Agilent and all is well again.

[Specmaster]

I think they look perfect 

[bd139]

Indeed. They look excellent 

[xrunner]

So here she is - the fully restored Drake SPR-4 in it's rightful place on my radio desk.

Now, back to Ebay! 

[Kosmic]

So here she is - the fully restored Drake SPR-4 in it's rightful place on my radio desk.

Now, back to Ebay! 

Good job, look really good 

[bd139]

Indeed. Excellent work 

[Specmaster]

Looks really good there, what's next?

Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk

[xrunner]

Thanks a lot guys. 

I found an MFE3007 dual-gate MOSFET the SPR-4 uses for the rf amplifier transistor on Ebay (NOS) for cheap, so I got it in reserve in case needed someday.

What's next? As far as a project not sure. However, 6 meters is really alive in the day now so I might just use what I have for a while LOL. Just this week I worked three new DX entities on 6m - Belize, Costa Rica, and St. Martin using the homebrew beam. We had a high windstorm last week and it looked like one element of the beam was bent by the wind but it was only torqued at the screw joint. I got up there and was able to tap it back with a garden tool. After the season I'll take it down for the winter and look at making some of my own mechanical improvements. It needs to hold the elements a bit better. I see the 3D printer involved in some way. Some of the fittings are already made by a 3D printer my friend's friend made for this project. He made them out of PETG which is tougher than PLA.

I designed my own style of antenna end-insulator right after I got the 3D printer. I don't like most of the types you can buy. I want my antenna wire to pull straight out of the insulator and not wrap around and/or tie in knots. I installed them this spring on two different fan dipoles. Two are printed in gray and two in white. The material is PLA. I want to see how they hold up after the blazing heat of the summer. Some say they will get soft and stretch. That is what I will find out. So far, they look just fine. If anyone wants the CAD for the insulator to use or mod let me know. Hmmm ... might ask DAVE if he can add .stl as a file attachment type (or could be zipped I guess).

[xrunner]

I received a PM regarding the file I used to print the dial numbers. I will attach the Open Office file here for anyone who might need it. The font and spacing should be OK. Edit the file with your specific band details. But you must use clear adhesive "paper" to print it.