Well, thank you all for your answers. Much appreciated.
Are there any questions convenient to ask to the seller before buying a 478A sensor? I mean, from threads similar to this, I learned to look for the possibility of returns and for the availability of sensor calibration chart. Those 478As from eBay can be returned, but should I ask something about them? Having to return it would be annoying.
Another thing would be stability/calibration of the power meter itself. Again, from other threads, I see that 432A could not need anything done to it for years and years. The one I'm looking at seems to have been last calibrated in 2011. Not sure about 435A and 436A candidates. Not having to be worried about power meter would be lovely. But perhaps I shouldn't be worried about it with 435/436, either? Any opinions about that?
432 and 435 doesn't have HP-IB, at least that I could see. However I see it's recommended to connect recorder output to some DMM/DVM. I have HP3456, which does have HP-IB. So I guess I could use it not just for measuring, but also for logging to some PC. Is that right?
This is just my opinion but I think the HP432A (with the 478A thermistor sensor) is now best used for metrology purposes rather than as a general purpose power meter. The stock HP478A sensor is rated from 10MHz to about 10GHz but in my experience the input VSWR is poor below about 30MHz and poor above a few GHz. It is best suited for metrology in the range of about 50MHz to about 1GHz in this respect. I typically only use mine for checking the 1mW reference from my Anritsu power meter using DC substitution and a decent Keithley DVM.
I would be using it in the 20-300 MHz range. 500 MHz at most since that's what my AN/USM-323 (military version of 8640B) could output. So 432A would be OK for the frequencies I'm going to be on, I guess.
The 478A sensor is also very fragile and the sensor quotes 30mW as the maximum input power level. This means it could be damaged with the 8640B sig gen (in theory at least). One mistake and it will be cooked and then it's game over.
Yeah, that worries me. As a total noob, I don't know what would be best. On one hand, as I understand it, using about 5Vpp would be the better thing to adjust these CROs. OTOH, power meter is to be used to check sig gen, not the CROs. Perhaps some good attenuator could be used. Any hints about that?
The thermocouple sensor based meters that replaced the 432A are more suited to general RF benchwork. They are easier to use, have a more stable zero performance vs time and temperature and it's possible to get sensors that work down to about 100kHz. They can also withstand 20dBm input power levels without damage although I would recommend using them up to about 15dBm maximum if you want the best performance in terms of sensor linearity.
Understood. I think 15dBm could be enough to adjust the CROs. Perhaps one could go for a sensor able to go higher power, to have good linearity at 19 dBm -which is the limit of AN/USM-323. Any ideas?
For checking old CR scopes for frequency response you ideally want to use a sig gen with low harmonic distortion. The HP 8640B should be generally good here as long as you keep the power output fairly low. I haven't used one for many years but I'd expect it to be good (in terms of low distortion) at levels up to 0dBm.
I'm putting a couple screenshots from AN/USM-323 manual as attachments, with the specs for harmonics, output level accuracy, flatness and VSWR. How does it look?
The ideal setup would involve a good sig gen and an external levelling amplifier. I made my own levelling amplifier a few years ago as described here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/rf-microwave/homebrew-rf-levelling-amplifier/
Yeah, I was reading that thread two days ago. Very interesting. As I understand, it implies to have, among other things, a power meter, a DVM at recorder output, and a sig gen able to go very low in frequency. I guess power meter 435 would be adequate for that. HP3456A would have to be at recorder output. Not sure about sig gen, thoug. It looks the lowest frequency would be 500 kHz.
The benefit is accurate levelling and a well defined 50R source impedance. This is probably too good for just checking a scope for frequency response though.
8640B was recommended to me precisely for levelling and low harmonics. Not really sure it wast the best recommendation, and I got the military version. Since I already got it, I'll have to try and get the best from it
One issue with using the 8640B will be tuning it across the frequency range of the scope in octave ranges. This could become quite tedious to do by hand. Modern synthesised sig gens can do this via remote control or via the front panel with a rotary control. I'd recommend something like the Agilent ESG series as these use a BFO/HET system up to about 250MHz. The harmonics are usually much lower on the BFO/HET range as long as the power is kept below about 0dBm. The IFR 341x series of sig gens have a BFO/HET range up to about 370MHz and typically produce low harmonic distortion up to this frequency as long as the output power level is kept below about 0dBm. The IFR sig gens tend to be very expensive though.
I want this able to go up to 300 MHz at least. I got for peanuts a quite beaten and partially scavenged (knobs) Tektronix 485. I'm hoping I could resurrect it as a kind of Franketronix. Anyway, even if I fail to resurrect it, I'm pretty sure I will get quite a bit of fun, and learn a couple things BTW.
My upgraded Rigol AWG isn't good over 60 MHz so I hope to use this thing with my most used 100 Mhz DSO. I'm also interested in long range RC. The probability for me getting more of an oscilloscope than a 500 MHz one is near zero, I think. So AN/USM-323 seemed to fit the bill pretty well, and it was relatively cheap. I don't think tuning across frequency ranges will be so tedious to me, but I'll have to live with it anyway.
The really cheap way to check the 8640B for flatness would be to use a decent low barrier Schottky diode detector with its own internal 50R termination. This won't be as good as a HP power meter, but it should be good enough for the stuff you are doing.
Well, I still have at least some days before the time to pull the trigger. I'm leaning to 435A since it would the cheapest power meter I could get now. Even on a budget, I don't mind getting quality tools if possible.
Again, thank you all