the first link I posted explains it, you can infer from his writing
Eb = collector
Ew = helix,
It says the collector is approximately 1/2 the helix
If this is accurate IDK, I am afraid you are going to fry it, but I seem to recall something being half of something when I set mine up, and the other thing you adjust and monitor the current to set it correctly. Those amps when they are setup right usually have a dial on the front that tells you the current of something, so you set the voltages to some predefined values then adjust for nominal current. I don't feel like reading the manual right now to remember. the front panel indicator tells you if its over loading some how by measuring some kind of current (forgot which one), but you use it for the 'tuning' process when you adjust potentiometers.
He seems to say the grid is rise time sensitive, and my unit featured a vacuum relay for triggering something, possibly the grid current (its like a mosfet you don't want it in linear region for too long). Vacuum relay gives a very very sharp pulse. You need to verify if the vacuum relay DOES infact give sharper pulse, I am not sure, I think they use oil relays for high power pulse shapers, I think vacuum is next best. ?
Control grid (sometimes called G2 or anode) supply. This voltage determines the beam current, and is usually derived from the helix voltage. It must be adjustable. Current consumption is in the micro ampere range. In most cases, this grid is also used for switching the beam on and off. Because this voltage has a role in beam focusing, it must be switched on and off very fast. While it is rising, the helix current can assume values several times the allowed absolute maximum, and this transient must be kept as short as possible. G2 voltage should not be present in absence of helix voltage, because excessive current would flow and destroy G2. Since in most cases G2 voltage is derived from the helix voltage, this is no problem.
I want to say the final step is adjusting the control grid current, after it switches on, to the 'nominal' value on the dial indicator. I think so long it turns on to some kind of ballpark, you can adjust it so it settles in the nominal place, then play around with the front panel for specifics IIRC, but you need to adjust it so that no matter where your knob is set, it is in a safe spot. IDK how wear is effected by this, I assume there are nominal settings.