A look at the Uni-T UT210E

[joeqsmith]

Read posts 193, 195 and 199.  The only problem with dotless mode is in fact that it is dotless!     Well, that and it even needs to be there in the first place.   

[Behemot]

I've already read it but it does not make sense. From what I understand it does not behave properly. I mean, for proper use the meter must behave the same way no matter what settings or functions you used before you rotated to DCA/ACA and selected DCA with the Select button. Instead it does strange things depending on what type of On/off and Select masturbation you do with the meter  If I understand it wrong please elaborate.

The remaining posts talk about changing the limit when the meter starts indicating overshoot. But changing that does not completely solve the problem, does it? Plus how can you set limit in volts for current??

For each of those, limit = value * 10V.

[joeqsmith]

From what I understand it does not behave properly. I mean, for proper use the meter must behave the same way no matter what settings or functions you used before you rotated to DCA/ACA and selected DCA with the Select button.

    If you want a meter that is proper, hacking the 210 is not for you.  I would suggest getting a name brand or not hacking it.  Personally for the $40 they sell it for and the added value of the hacks, I can live with it's few improper properties. 

[flywheelz]

Am I missing something?  In what way is the hacked UT210E is misbehaving?

I thought all the issues have been worked out now.

The only issue we really had was with 2A reverting to 2000 count when zeroed out.  But now You can simply put Dotless mode in place of default Dot mode, just don't forget to copy the calibration data.  If you need the OL alarms just adjust it to your liking. 

@joeqsmith, btw how did you disable all of the alarms?

[macboy]

Read posts 193, 195 and 199.  The only problem with dotless mode is in fact that it is dotless!     Well, that and it even needs to be there in the first place.

Why is this a problem? It is simply reading in mA instead of A. So what?

[joeqsmith]

Read posts 193, 195 and 199.  The only problem with dotless mode is in fact that it is dotless!     Well, that and it even needs to be there in the first place.

Why is this a problem? It is simply reading in mA instead of A. So what?

It's pretty well documented that the 210 resets to 2000 counts in normal 2ADC.  When selecting dotless, it displays "A", not "mA" as you suggest. Are these really problems for me,  nope.  I was happy to see there was a work around.  The problem I saw was the calibration but again, this was addressed.   

Am I missing something?  In what way is the hacked UT210E is misbehaving?

I thought all the issues have been worked out now.

The only issue we really had was with 2A reverting to 2000 count when zeroed out.  But now You can simply put Dotless mode in place of default Dot mode, just don't forget to copy the calibration data.  If you need the OL alarms just adjust it to your liking. 

@joeqsmith, btw how did you disable all of the alarms?

I just followed Hugatry's posts and set them to FF.  If it's not clear, I do not use the meter for anything other than a clamp.  It does a good job at this but it's still a UNI-T.  No point risking the thing.   

[Behemot]

  If you want a meter that is proper, hacking the 210 is not for you.  I would suggest getting a name brand or not hacking it.  Personally for the $40 they sell it for and the added value of the hacks, I can live with it's few improper properties.

OMG, this crap again When some of those "proper" (=overpriced) brands come up with meter which is more accurate, let me know. I regularly check shitloads of brands inluding japanese and who knows what else, each time incl. new brands (for me) I have not even known before. None of them comes even close to this, and the meter is already on market for over 2 years. So you may just as well realize all those Tektronix'es, Flukes and other "proper" brands of yours have serious competition kicking their ass with each new device they come up with. I am just in the process of getting their wattmeters here as there is nothing else in Europe for such price with such functionality on the market.

The meter with factory settings works just fine, no matter how exactly you dial DCA and how you start measuring. According to your own post, after this mod it behaves like crazy and totally different each time depending on the procedure you choose to dial the function and start measuring If this can not be fixed than the mode is as well as useless. I won't use that even for myself, not to mention for my customers

[flywheelz]

Are you mad mate? j/k That post you keep bringing up is history. It's was his diligent testing that brought attention to the calibration data you need for the dotless mode. Once you copy over the two  calibration bytes the dotless will behave as the normal 2A 0.000 A mode but without the dot e.g. 0000. It will still measure in miliamps in 2A mode. As for myself, I have not found out there anything else remotely close and similarly priced as the UT210E(hacked)! 

[Behemot]

Calibration data are relevant for that 38mA (IIRC) drift he has been experiencing. How exactly can it affect strange behaviour he has previously described? So, are YOU mad or what?

[flywheelz]

Calibration data are relevant for that 38mA (IIRC) drift he has been experiencing. How exactly can it affect strange behaviour he has previously described? So, are YOU mad or what?

The factory UT210E has two functions in 2A mode. 1. 0.000 ACA 2. 0.000 DCA. These functions are hardcoded in the flash to over range at 2amps when you press ZERO even if you do the 6000 count hack. 

The recent hack opens up two more functions in the 2A mode; 3. 0000 DCA 4. 0000 ACA, aka dotless. The magic with the dotless is it does not over range even if you press ZERO. Otherwise it's functions as factory modes. 

To clear the confusion in Selecting through four functions in 2A mode, you can simply overwrite the factory functions with dotless.

I hope this clears it up for you. No offense but I think you are over reading/thinking things. 

[Behemot]

So it is possible to completely turn off the original current mode for the 2.000 A range and only keep the 9999 A (in fact 9.999 A), correct?

Better to overthink than do not think through properly and than wonder why it is screwed. I would also prefer to create correct code the first time (instead of experimenting) as I expect I'll have to remove the chip to write to it. Removing it several times exponentially increases the chance of screwing 40buck meter.

[joeqsmith]

OMG, this crap again When some of those "proper" (=overpriced) brands come up with meter which is more accurate, let me know.
I regularly check shitloads of brands inluding japanese and who knows what else, each time incl. new brands (for me) I have not even known before. None of them comes even close to this, and the meter is already on market for over 2 years. So you may just as well realize all those Tektronix'es, Flukes and other "proper" brands of yours have serious competition kicking their ass with each new device they come up with. I am just in the process of getting their wattmeters here as there is nothing else in Europe for such price with such functionality on the market.

The meter with factory settings works just fine, no matter how exactly you dial DCA and how you start measuring. According to your own post, after this mod it behaves like crazy and totally different each time depending on the procedure you choose to dial the function and start measuring If this can not be fixed than the mode is as well as useless. I won't use that even for myself, not to mention for my customers

     I can understand your response as I explained the operation of the two modes using the selector.  To you it seems crazy, strange and not proper as you put it.   It's just too complex for you to follow along and this makes you upset as you want something that is polished.   You must realize this is work in progress and it is a hack.   Rather than reacting as you have which really adds nothing to the thread, you could just wait a while and see how thing progress.

[joeqsmith]

Calibration data are relevant for that 38mA (IIRC) drift he has been experiencing. How exactly can it affect strange behaviour he has previously described? So, are YOU mad or what?

There is a lot going on with the modes having different limits, alarms, calibrations.  The strange, crazy and improper behavior as you put it was me working through the different modes.  I suspect your frustration is that it's confusing for you.   In the first video I made, I show the difference between dotless and normal as it stands today with Hugatry's input on the calibration. 

I would also prefer to create correct code the first time (instead of experimenting) as I expect I'll have to remove the chip to write to it. Removing it several times exponentially increases the chance of screwing 40buck meter.

I can fully understand that hacking products like this is not for everyone.   You just want something you can easily copy without any effort.  Again, I suggest you wait.   

To be honest, removing the chip seems a bit stupid.  I just use the clip I have shown.  Again all documented. 

[Behemot]

   I can understand your response as I explained the operation of the two modes using the selector.  To you it seems crazy, strange and not proper as you put it.   It's just too complex for you to follow along and this makes you upset as you want something that is polished.   You must realize this is work in progress and it is a hack.   Rather than reacting as you have which really adds nothing to the thread, you could just wait a while and see how thing progress.

You said yourself

So it's not a real clean setup IMO.

so what the heck are you arguing about. I think I asked pretty clear questions, you are sending smokescreens instead of a clear answer. This is what I hate!

And don't start on me with that "adding to thread" crap ever again. I am not a "herd of sheep" type of person who always blats with the herd in common symphony how everything is great when it is actually not. Besides, while you may not be able to perceive that, summing up the progress (or lack of one) is an added value…most of the folk does not enjoy reading hundreds of posts to collect crumbs of information. I did not, but it is good that I've read this through and pushed you so we now know the current status.

I must admit that yes, the dotless mode is an improvement which makes it at least semi-usable. I however fail to understand how ppl could've considered it good before when it was lacking the zeroing function. A function pretty much essential for DCA clamp meter because of the principle of things…

BTW you have not answered my question, but I OFC know why - there is no better meter than this in terms of accuracy. I have checked ten times more expensive meters, only thing they offer are shitloads of extra functions I do have no use for. But none of them is better in terms of accuracy. It is only cheap as it does not have those functions, not because it is any bad or unsafe.

Lack of any more accurate clamp meters on the planet is also the reason I will be switching to voltmeters and precision shunts in near future which will give me as much as one order (of magnitude) more precise results…just thought it may be possible to really improve this one when I saw first couple of pages. Well, no, not yet at least.

In the first video I made, I show the difference between dotless and normal as it stands today with Hugatry's input on the calibration.

I won't be reacting to those crap statements of yours, but on the topic, what video exactly? All I found is about degauss of the clamp. If there is something which may clear up the situation, I'll gladly play that, but I see nothing.

To be honest, removing the chip seems a bit stupid.  I just use the clip I have shown.  Again all documented.

I always count with the worst case scenario, try that sometimes, maybe you'll find that better. I have not yet studied the full potential of my programmer, however even if I won't have to remove the chip, having everything ready right away is still better than the other way around.

[flywheelz]

I have not tried to overwrite original with dotless but it should work. I only changed order around and added dotless.  As for 9999, some have turned it up this far but I went with conservative 6000.  Reading a while back the safe count IIRC is 7200 for AC due to limited mcu sampling but for DC it can be 9999. So you decide.

If you decide to flash a lot then get the chip clip adapter for few bucks or install a 8-pin socket.

Edit: Due to the continuing foul attitude and I see nothing useful coming from this back and forth I am going mute.

[Behemot]

I know, seen that, it (9999) was merely an ilustration (as it is the maximum what the display can show). IIRC it was estimated at around 8 A as than the meter can not sample for TRMS fast enough. I'd of course use such limited value. However if the meter indeed behaves the described way depending on the order you dial the function and start taking measurements, it is not any good for me…

[Zbig]

[..]
And don't start on me with that "adding to thread" crap ever again. I am not a "herd of sheep" type of person who always blats with the herd in common symphony how everything is great when it is actually not. Besides, while you may not be able to perceive that, summing up the progress (or lack of one) is an added value…most of the folk does not enjoy reading hundreds of posts to collect crumbs of information. I did not, but it is good that I've read this through and pushed you so we now know the current status.
[..]

And what does the doctor say?

[joeqsmith]

I think I asked pretty clear questions, you are sending smokescreens instead of a clear answer. This is what I hate!

And don't start on me with that "adding to thread" crap ever again. I am not a "herd of sheep" type of person who always blats with the herd in common symphony how everything is great when it is actually not. Besides, while you may not be able to perceive that, summing up the progress (or lack of one) is an added value…most of the folk does not enjoy reading hundreds of posts to collect crumbs of information. I did not, but it is good that I've read this through and pushed you so we now know the current status.

Asking very vague questions and hoping to get some answers, I am not really sure why you posted.  If you feel reading a few posts is too much for you, think of the poor people that now have to sift through your childish nonsense.   If you get to a point where you actually need some help or have something of value to say, feel free to post but I suggest you hold off on the trolling.

[Behemot]

Maybe sou should put some ice on your head to cool down. It is pretty much obvious you have no idea as you are clearly just copying something what somebody else did. That is OK for sure, what is not OK is when instead of being honest and saying so you try to make idiots of people who are asking questions you have no answer to. If you do not understand the question just say so, it is ofc possible they are not clear. But I have the feeling you do and this is just a part of the play.

All just because you have made tons of posts and think of yourself as some miniguru while you have no idea and you are afraid people will find out. Well, you do not even reach the ankles of ppl like Bud (e. g. here), those actually bring some huge stuff to that "community" of yours. Anyway, since I am getting no information here, guess it's time to blow of the dust from my russian and go straight to the source. If I find anything of use, I'll think about sharing here. It is exactly because ppl like you that some others are actually discouraged to share so I might as well decide to keep it. I run into this kind on many forums, and the result is always the same - ppl who would otherwise think about sharing just don't give a damn and left that wonderfull "community" rot in their small pile of dung.

But hey, you might think how great you are when you pushed me into going to search for my own. The drawback is you won't get anything from it

[Zbig]

Dude, you really should get back on your medication, ASAP.

[Simon]

Maybe sou should put some ice on your head to cool down. It is pretty much obvious you have no idea as you are clearly just copying something what somebody else did. That is OK for sure, what is not OK is when instead of being honest and saying so you try to make idiots of people who are asking questions you have no answer to. If you do not understand the question just say so, it is ofc possible they are not clear. But I have the feeling you do and this is just a part of the play.

All just because you have made tons of posts and think of yourself as some miniguru while you have no idea and you are afraid people will find out. Well, you do not even reach the ankles of ppl like Bud (e. g. here), those actually bring some huge stuff to that "community" of yours. Anyway, since I am getting no information here, guess it's time to blow of the dust from my russian and go straight to the source. If I find anything of use, I'll think about sharing here. It is exactly because ppl like you that some others are actually discouraged to share so I might as well decide to keep it. I run into this kind on many forums, and the result is always the same - ppl who would otherwise think about sharing just don't give a damn and left that wonderfull "community" rot in their small pile of dung.

But hey, you might think how great you are when you pushed me into going to search for my own. The drawback is you won't get anything from it

Can we all calm down please.

[joeqsmith]

Maybe sou should put some ice on your head to cool down. It is pretty much obvious you have no idea as you are clearly just copying something what somebody else did. That is OK for sure, what is not OK is when instead of being honest and saying so you try to make idiots of people who are asking questions you have no answer to.

......

But hey, you might think how great you are when you pushed me into going to search for my own. The drawback is you won't get anything from it

Well, I thought I was being honest when I posted that I had followed Hugatry's and others posts to hack the EPROM.  I understood what they wrote and was able to follow and assume most here are doing the same.  The only thing I added was identifying the calibration problem which again Hugatry was able to correct.  Again, it's all documented.  You just need to take the time to read it but I suspect your goals are something other than to do with the UT210E.

Of course I have discovered other details about the 210E, for example the TC and how to align it. Then there was sorting out how to attach a buffer to drive an oscilloscope with it.  Nothing I copied, again just sharing my findings for those who may be interested.   

You bring what beside drama?  You have made it clear you want something you can just copy that works and like a child throw a temper tantrum because you don't get what you want.  There is little I can do to help you.  Maybe once you get a UT210E and try reprogramming the EPROM yourself you will have actual questions the group can help answer.   

[Simon]

when I said "all" I meant EVERYONE. Can we drop the quiblings and continue the actual topic or should i lock it ?

[Circlotron]

^^ Can you lock individual users out of a thread instead of locking it completely?
I have no issue with anyone here, just a general question.

[Simon]

No, I have to either lock the thread or ban the user.