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A look at the Uni-T UT210E

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AudioNoob:
Except I didn't rush, I have spent at no less than two hours today on this total, and at least as many yesterday researching the topic. It's just blind eye to a thing you consider obviously correct.

I have modded the sketch to dump EEPROM as code, in addition to raw hex. Looks like this in the terminal window:


--- Code: ---writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0x00, 0xFF);
...
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xD7, 0x05);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xD8, 0x41);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xD9, 0x00);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDA, 0x03);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDB, 0x05);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDC, 0x0D);
writeByte(I2C_ADDR, 0xDD, 0x00);
...
--- End code ---
You can copy and paste it into MODeeprom() to restore the original data. Seems convenient to me. I'll share the final sketch after I'm done in case someone else follows my footprints.

Kbird:
Yes I have been there myself ..... :) , try rewiring a Thrustmaster TQS with 37 buttons and Axis's , you go cross-eyed :)


Nice addition to the sketch ...that would be a great and a welcome addition I am sure, I am no programmer :)  so that was beyond my skills... would of been handy before I modded mine to save the Original eeprom File.

AudioNoob:
Soooo, I've done the mods!
The only question remaining: what do the dotless modes do, besides not displaying the dot?

Here's my modding sketch for now, complete with printing the original values as code. But unless dotless modes actually turn out to be useful, I'd rather do enable AC mA mode instead.

Kbird:
there is some talk on pages 18 and 19 about dotless mode, I think it has to do with the error received IF you zero the Meter before a reading ,( you should)  it only reads 1.999 in that case instead of 5.999 or 9.999 with the newer model , so dotless gives 5999 or 9999 mV.

I am no expert on this stuff though , so hopefully  some-one else will clear it up for you if needed.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1374406/#msg1374406


And thanks for the Modded .ino , will give it a try next time I have mine open....

KB

jayjr1105:
Hey all, getting ready to perform the mods on my 210E as soon as the replacement comes in.  I made the mistake of soldering to the SMD cap for pin 55 and it ripped off the solder pad.  I will probe it next time with some wire for the eeprom read/write.

I have a few arduino's and am comfortable with the physical hookup of the meter.  I'm not super comfortable with flashing the modified settings, per se.  I am not a coder by any means.  Do I understand things correctly...

Connect physical parts, run arduino file, have serial console open and copy/save the original eeprom dump because of unique calibration data.  Modify what you want, flash new eeprom settings, profit?


I'd simply like 8000 counts (9999 isn't recommended because of TRMS bug correct?) and a 1 min backlight.  The rest of the things aren't as important to me.

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