Products > Test Equipment
A look at the Uni-T UT210E
Bud:
Why did you swap yellow and blue buttons?
TheBigT:
I bought my UT210E a few weeks ago, because in its stock configuration it already seemed like a tremendous deal. But I was annoyed by the default AC selection behavior, so I went looking for a simple solution... and stumbled upon this diamond encrusted goldmine instead.
First I considered using the solder-less method with the clamp and EEPROM programmer, but since I'm cheap and impatient, and had an Arduino on my desk anyway, I decided to go with the Arduino approach. And since -- in addition to my wonderful character traits above -- I'm also lazy, I just broke off five precision pin headers, rammed them haphazardly into the through holes on the meter's board and stuck proto board cables in them, while holding a sixth one to the cap on pin 55. Shockingly enough this super-ghetto approach worked, and somehow I even managed to avoid frying the meter with the loose cables. I'm happy to say that the mods have elevated my new toy to a whole different level...
Thanks to all the contributors for building up this wonderful resource!!!
djQUAN:
--- Quote from: TheBigT on November 25, 2018, 09:58:56 pm ---I bought my UT210E a few weeks ago, because in its stock configuration it already seemed like a tremendous deal. But I was annoyed by the default AC selection behavior, so I went looking for a simple solution... and stumbled upon this diamond encrusted goldmine instead.
First I considered using the solder-less method with the clamp and EEPROM programmer, but since I'm cheap and impatient, and had an Arduino on my desk anyway, I decided to go with the Arduino approach. And since -- in addition to my wonderful character traits above -- I'm also lazy, I just broke off five precision pin headers, rammed them haphazardly into the through holes on the meter's board and stuck proto board cables in them, while holding a sixth one to the cap on pin 55. Shockingly enough this super-ghetto approach worked, and somehow I even managed to avoid frying the meter with the loose cables. I'm happy to say that the mods have elevated my new toy to a whole different level...
Thanks to all the contributors for building up this wonderful resource!!!
--- End quote ---
That's how I did mine on two meters already, plus the various debugging/mod-test-mod-test cycles. Works a treat, the meter innards still looks untampered.
ONDevil:
Hello,
i bought an UT216C ClampMeter and see the Mod`s in here.
The Real Bad thinks on this Meter is the short Backlight Time and on every Start set to AC.
Now i want to change that.
I find the eeprom Chip inside and read out with my new TL866II Plus Programmer.
But i don`t know what i have to change to get the Backlight on/off (without Timer) and have DC as Standard?
Can anyone help me?
(I made a Dump of the original Settings)
--- Code: ---FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 52 00 FA 00 F0 C3 03
10 17 38 18 44 02 6E 4B 64 3C 3C 3C 0A FF 40 FF
C7 97 C8 80 64 00 96 00 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
4E 02 09 D6 FD 08 5A 06 0B 9F 12 0A 10 07 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 74 04 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
4D 7D CC 6F 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80
B1 7F 15 80 01 00 F1 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
83 81 00 80 76 82 E0 7C 08 07 00 00 00 00 00 00
FC 1C 01 98 18 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
F8 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
0D 00 02 10 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 20
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 5A C7 CE 0F 0F 40 00 00
--- End code ---
stj:
kill backlight timeout
change location fc to 00 (normally 0f)
dc mode first:
make 2A range dc>ac instead of ac>dc
87 = 16 (normally 17)
97 = 17 (normally 16)
make 20A range dc>ac instead of ac>dc
8b = 18 (normally 19)
9b = 19 (normally 18)
make 100A range dc>ac instead of ac>dc
8d = 1a (normally 1b)
9d = 1b (normally 1a)
make Vdc>Vac(with mv) instead of Vac>Vdc
8e = 05 (normally 04)
9e = 06 (normally 05)
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