Author Topic: A look at the Uni-T UT210E (Read 439708 times)

ledtester · « **Reply #775 on:** December 17, 2020, 06:33:48 am »

A couple of new vids by TheHWCave on using the internal trim pots to calibrate the meter:

UNI-T UT210E offset adjustment part 1: The theory behind it

- https://youtu.be/nGJ65PrxkFs

UNI-T UT210E offset adjustment part 2: Procedures

- https://youtu.be/wnaWDES_HaA

Be sure to check the video notes for useful links.

Miti · « **Reply #776 on:** December 26, 2020, 11:35:51 pm »

I just received my UT210E "Limited Edition" from Bangood. The "limitation" is in the fact that, apparently, they forgot to populate a whole bunch of capacitors, see the attached picture.
Of course, I also bought a chip clip to modify the EEPROM using TL866II+, which works perfect for reading, so far I haven't tried writing the EEPROM. I carefully selected 24LC02 from the TL866II+'s list of devices that provides 3.3V supply voltage, that's to protect the main chip which goes to 3.6V max. My instrument has the DM1106 chip, which, I understand, supports up to 10000 counts.
Now I have a lot of reading to do but please forgive me if I want to take a shortcut. Is there a reply with "the best EEPROM" changes for this chip? I found minhtri0405's reply # 681. Is there another page I should go straight to, before I start exploring the entire thread?

Cheers,
Miti

ledtester · « **Reply #777 on:** December 27, 2020, 12:34:43 am »

Quote

Is there a reply with "the best EEPROM" changes for this chip?

Check out this video:

https://youtu.be/Vj6b-clYTis

galileo · « **Reply #778 on:** January 16, 2021, 05:54:38 pm »

For those that want to take the easy route use this script to modify the
memory dump: https://github.com/mkrupcale/ut210e
It properly handles the new chips 9999 count. Only thing missing is the
transposing of the DC/AC modes.

devydd · « **Reply #779 on:** January 17, 2021, 10:49:54 pm »

I've also (totally independent from @galileo, as it often happens) created an editor for UT210E EEPROM

It's a single HTML page with embedded JavaScript, no server needed. Tested in Chrome, but it seems to work in Firefox, too.

Please open an GitHub issue, submit a Pull Request (or just post a comment here) if you notice any error or have knowledge on the meaning of any of the unsupported ranges.

Github: https://github.com/devydd/UT210E-EEPROM-Editor
On-line version: https://devydd.github.io/UT210E-EEPROM-Editor/

shved · « **Reply #780 on:** January 20, 2021, 03:15:40 pm »

Hi devydd . I've tried the HTML based program and it's awesome. Everything works as expected.
I suggest you add some calibration functionality for those who want to use dotless mode and who lost eeprom chip or cal values.

devydd · « **Reply #781 on:** January 20, 2021, 06:03:34 pm »

@shved Nice to hear that

It might be a good idea to add some "presets" for the common hacks (like the dotless mode). But even in the current version you can manually copy the calibration values from the 6A to the 6000A mode and add the 6000A AC and DC sub-modes.

Regarding the calibration - I'm unaware of any method involving EEPROM modification.

shved · « **Reply #782 on:** January 20, 2021, 08:57:31 pm »

No problem.
Presets are a good idea, if it proves to be difficult - you can just add more comments next to the input form boxes, esp. about dotless mode.

About cal. functionality: I've meant that the dotless mode reads a little high, if you just copy cal. values. Also my friend and some other guys on this forum lost cal. data by pushing batons, using arduino mods without backup, etc. It would be nice if there were some options for calibrating, like: put 1 amp through the thing => input the number in the box => some math => boom, semi-automatic calibration.
Just an idea.

marlonpnz · « **Reply #783 on:** January 22, 2021, 05:37:53 pm »

Hi folks.

I would like to share a method I discovered to calibrate without need to read and write the flash memory.
Sorry if it is not new fou you, but I searched for it and did not found the procedure explained like this.

1-Simply hold pressed the HOLD+SELECT buttons while you turn on the meter to the ohms/continuity/diode option (second position). Then release the buttons.
I am not sure if this wheel position is really mandatory, but it is described in some places as the correct method.
The meter will show "CAL" and will do some auto tests. You can abort this tests pressing select 2 times. If you let it run over, it will end the auto-tests after some minutes.
(note: after change the count config to reach 6200 counts the aut-test take much more time, then I gave up waiting).

2-Now put in the function/scale you want to calibrate (rotate the wheel and press select until you reach there), can be DCV for example.
I tested only for DCV (all ranges) and DCA (all ranges) but most probably it will work for others, like ohms and capacitance. The ACV seams to share the calibration of DCV. I did not tested ACA.

3- Now comes the main part (apparently undocumented). While you are in whatever function you chose before, you can calibrate the zero point by pressing the ZERO button (once per function/scale calibration procedure) and the gain by pressing the HOLD button (short press to decrease the reading and long press to increase the reading). However, to do so you need to feed the leads with a known integer value, once each press in HOLD will jump the reading to next integer above(long press) or below(short press). So, for example if you feed 12.00Vdc but you read 11.82Vdc, than long press HOLD while you are sure the correct voltage is 12.00Vdc and the meter will adjust the reading to 12.00Vdc (first integer above 11.8V).
-Therefore, each long press will jump the reading to next integer above, while the short press will make jump to the next integer below.
-Depending the scale you are the jump may not be an integer, however you will figure it out while doing the process.
-Pay attention to the scale you are. As DCV is autoscale you need to adjust when you are at 0.000, when you are 00.00 and when you are 000.0. You need to change the scale by changing your voltage source. The point in each range to calibrate is a personal choice. I noticed that the linearity is not so good, than I prefered to calibrate at 17.00Vdc the 60Vdc range once I will be reading values mainly from my battery bank between 12 and 24Vdc.

4-After the procedure for all functions and scales you are interested to calibrate just turn off the meter. In the next turn on the new calibration is used normally.

In the attachment you can see my flash content before(left) and after(right) calibration. Differences are highlighted. I calibrated DCV and DCA only (all ranges).
It seems that some different memory positions were changed compared to the documented positions (devydd post). My meter use the DTM0660 chip.

RoGeorge · « **Reply #784 on:** January 22, 2021, 06:43:17 pm »

Quote from: marlonpnz on January 22, 2021, 05:37:53 pm

Hi folks.

I would like to share a method I discovered to calibrate without need to read and write the flash memory.
Sorry if it is not new fou you, but I searched for it and did not found the procedure explained like this.

1-Simply hold pressed the HOLD+SELECT buttons while you turn on the meter to the ohms/continuity/diode option (second position). Then release the buttons.
I am not sure if this wheel position is really mandatory, but it is described in some places as the correct method.
The meter will show "CAL" and will do some auto tests. You can abort this tests pressing select 2 times. If you let it run over, it will end the auto-tests after some minutes.
(note: after change the count config to reach 6200 counts the aut-test take much more time, then I gave up waiting).

2-Now put in the function/scale you want to calibrate (rotate the wheel and press select until you reach there), can be DCV for example.
I tested only for DCV (all ranges) and DCA (all ranges) but most probably it will work for others, like ohms and capacitance. The ACV seams to share the calibration of DCV. I did not tested ACA.

3- Now comes the main part (apparently undocumented). While you are in whatever function you chose before, you can calibrate the zero point by pressing the ZERO button (once per function/scale calibration procedure) and the gain by pressing the HOLD button (short press to decrease the reading and long press to increase the reading). However, to do so you need to feed the leads with a known integer value, once each press in HOLD will jump the reading to next integer above(long press) or below(short press). So, for example if you feed 12.00Vdc but you read 11.82Vdc, than long press HOLD while you are sure the correct voltage is 12.00Vdc and the meter will adjust the reading to 12.00Vdc (first integer above 11.8V).
-Therefore, each long press will jump the reading to next integer above, while the short press will make jump to the next integer below.
-Depending the scale you are the jump may not be an integer, however you will figure it out while doing the process.
-Pay attention to the scale you are. As DCV is autoscale you need to adjust when you are at 0.000, when you are 00.00 and when you are 000.0. You need to change the scale by changing your voltage source. The point in each range to calibrate is a personal choice. I noticed that the linearity is not so good, than I prefered to calibrate at 17.00Vdc the 60Vdc range once I will be reading values mainly from my battery bank between 12 and 24Vdc.

4-After the procedure for all functions and scales you are interested to calibrate just turn off the meter. In the next turn on the new calibration is used normally.

In the attachment you can see my flash content before(left) and after(right) calibration. Differences are highlighted. I calibrated DCV and DCA only (all ranges).
It seems that some different memory positions were changed compared to the documented positions (devydd post). My meter use the DTM0660 chip.

Wow, very good finding, thank you!

shved · « **Reply #785 on:** January 22, 2021, 11:02:17 pm »

Thanks marlonpnz I've successfully calibrated DC Amps dotless mode.

shved · « **Reply #786 on:** January 31, 2021, 12:33:29 pm »

I've just modded and calibrated another meter.
Thanks everyone.

kyleaudio · « **Reply #787 on:** February 22, 2021, 05:18:59 am »

The calibration adjustment procedure posted by marlonpnz worked on my Extech MA63 too. Thanks for posting that!

RobbiTobi · « **Reply #788 on:** March 10, 2021, 03:49:33 pm »

Hi folks,

I would like to share some details about using the UT210E as a buffer for a scope.

Maybe you remember the awesome job Joe Smith did on the UT210E for getting the current signal out for using this probe with a scope - see post #347.
Unfortunately - as far as I am informed there has not been any detailed information about the modification he did and which components he added.

But there is a very simple way to improve the frequency response of the UT210E without adding any additional components to it.
Just change some resistors and there you are ... you can achieve bandwidth of about ~20kHz@2A and ~100kHz@20A.
Find the image attached showing a simple testing and comparison with a serious current probe - not bad at all for such a low-cost meter and the simple modification for few cents only!

What you have to do?
This meter has a standard instrumentation amplifier OP4330 configuration using 3 OPamps for the amplification of the Hall-sensors.
Just distribute the gain over the available OPamps, instead of setting the total gain on the first stage only - i.e. gain=9 will become gain=3 for 1. stage and gain=3 for 2. stage.
This results in higher overall bandwidth, due to the nature of the OPamp regarding its gain vs. frequency.
You will need to change 5 resistors only - three on the first stage and two on the second stage - the values of the resistors are in function of the gain you want to set (see standard OPamp configurations).
After you might re-calibrate the current ranges of the meter by adjusting the correction factors in the EEprom.

That´s it... for those who can solder SMD it is a task of ~1h only at a cost of a few cents.

Obviously, do not expect specs like a professional probe has, but you can further improve the meter by adding filters and/or better OPamps...

Cheers and have fun!

dinth · « **Reply #789 on:** March 19, 2021, 08:11:11 pm »

I have run self diagnostics as per @marlonpnz post a couple of times, but since i tried for the third time the self-diagnostics fails with Err0 error. What's going on?

lnxpro · « **Reply #790 on:** May 06, 2021, 07:38:00 pm »

I just got a UT210E Pro (the one with the black clamps). the chip inside is the same DM1106EN as in the non pro version.
I attached the original bin file if anyone is curious.
I was able to modify this the same way as the original non pro version (10k count, start on DC, endless power on and backlight) by flashing it. I used a clamp programmer.
If anyone wants to look at the bin file I provided and compare it with an original from a non pro version, I'd be curious to see what the differences are

cdev · « **Reply #791 on:** May 15, 2021, 02:16:27 am »

I am going to give this a look. It sure would be a big time saver..

Stinger · « **Reply #792 on:** May 16, 2021, 06:15:51 pm »

Quote from: lnxpro on May 06, 2021, 07:38:00 pm

I just got a UT210E Pro (the one with the black clamps). the chip inside is the same DM1106EN as in the non pro version.
I attached the original bin file if anyone is curious.
I was able to modify this the same way as the original non pro version (10k count, start on DC, endless power on and backlight) by flashing it. I used a clamp programmer.
If anyone wants to look at the bin file I provided and compare it with an original from a non pro version, I'd be curious to see what the differences are

Hi,

Original bin of UT210E VS Pro. How modify for adding Frequency...

jotte · « **Reply #793 on:** June 02, 2021, 09:25:10 pm »

Hello,

thank you all for sharing all that very nice findings!
Got an UT210E Pro and also managed to modify it to much more useful settings. Thanks!

Quote from: Stinger on May 16, 2021, 06:15:51 pm

.... How modify for adding Frequency...

Mine has a 24C08 in it. So its 1024 Bytes instead of 256Bytes in a 24c02 used in the normal 210E.
There are some additional entries from 0x160 to 0x175 .

" alt="" class="bbc_img" />

Maybe ...

alex27riva · « **Reply #794 on:** June 06, 2021, 01:17:53 pm »

Hi everyone, my UT210E doesn't work well, sometimes the current measurements (AC and DC) are completely wrong, and also the clamp resets when switching from one mode to another.
The batteries are charged, they measure 2.8V with the clamp on (I measured with another multimeter).
I read in this thread that the caliper can be modded, so I ordered an EEPROM programmer from Aliexpress in order to backup the settings and attempt a calibration.

shved · « **Reply #795 on:** June 06, 2021, 04:17:35 pm »

Hi alex27riva. I've had problems like that with my friends unit.

Storytime......:
I've bought the clamp meter after I've borrowed the other meter from a friend and was impressed with it. After I've had used and maxed out the scale couple of times, I've found this thread and HTML based modding programs. As soon as I understood what to do - my meter was modded and later calibrated.
So I showed it to said friend and he wanted me to flash his meter too, but there was a problem! The friend said that he: did some random button pushing, measured current draw of powerful Ham radio HF setup(with grossly mistuned antenna), dropped and gave the bag to the Russian train and air luggage systems(multiple trips), oh and he had leaky battery at some point. Majorly misused the thing, you know what I mean.
Anyway I(out of curiosity) took hes meter home. What I've found was OK, the meter was in OK shape, but(due to impact, i think) the hinges of the clamp were cracked. The flashing went well and everything, but the calibration not so match.

Also I've some dodgy range switch problems on another UNI-T and HP meters, but that's more wear and tear then a defect.

There is no way to know what exactly is the problem: HF Radio interference overload, button mashing, impacts, moisture, something chemical or otherwise.

I don't want to demotivate you, just giving you ideas on what to check. Simplest thing first.

alex27riva · « **Reply #796 on:** June 20, 2021, 02:59:59 pm »

Hi everyone, I'm trying reading the content of the EEPROM on Linux using flashrom and I get the error "No EEPROM/flash device found".
I tried also on Windows 7 with CH314A Programmer (I followed this video), but is only reading "FFFFF". The programmer is connected and recognized.
I'm using this programmer from Aliexpress
What could be the problem?

edit: fixed link

shved · « **Reply #797 on:** June 20, 2021, 03:20:57 pm »

Hi alex27riva.
Your Aliexpres link doesn't work.
Try sucking the EEPROM chip out and inserting it directly to programmer( with SOIC adapter).
Trouble with programming EEPROMs that are still connected are quite common. For example, some programmers have a problem with address pins(1,2,3) and enable pin on some chips.

galileo · « **Reply #798 on:** June 25, 2021, 01:01:06 am »

Quote from: alex27riva on June 20, 2021, 02:59:59 pm

Hi everyone, I'm trying reading the content of the EEPROM on Linux using flashrom and I get the error "No EEPROM/flash device found".
I tried also on Windows 7 with CH314A Programmer (I followed this video), but is only reading "FFFFF". The programmer is connected and recognized.
I'm using this programmer from Aliexpress
What could be the problem?

Had the same issue with flashrom, apparently it does not support that flash. Used some Russian (I think) software under
Windows VM to flash mine.
I used this to flash (no longer available but should be the same as all other CH341): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32354555071.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dd9uJHv

Trader · « **Reply #799 on:** June 29, 2021, 06:10:26 pm »

Thsinde 210E, seems an improved version. DC: 0-200uA with 0.1uA resolution

AC DC Current Digital Clamp Meter - 100A 6000-Counts Low Impedance Voltage 1 mA Reading Auto Range Multimeter Tester with Temperature,True RMS (Red)

1mA Sensitivity: 1mA sensitivity when measures AC/DC current by clamp.

Multi Functions: This true rms 6000 counts auto-ranging clamp meter can measure temperature, capacitance, low impedance voltage, frequency, resistance, continuity, AC/DC voltage, AC/DC current and live wire check

AC DC Current Clamp Meter

Low impedance LOZ: Max 600V Resolution 0.1V

Resistance: 600Ω/6kΩ/60kΩ/600kΩ/6MΩ 0.1Ω/0.001KΩ/0.01KΩ/0.1KΩ/0.001MΩ ±(1.0%+3counts)

60MΩ 0.01MΩ ±(1.2%+20counts)

Capacitance: 600µF/6000µF 0.1µF/1µF ±(4.0%+3counts)

Frequency: 60Hz/1000Hz 0.1Hz/1Hz ±(1.0%+5counts)

Frequency(by jaws): 60Hz/1000Hz 0.1Hz/1Hz ±(1.0%+5counts)

Buzzer: If the resistance is less than 30Ω, the continuity beeper sounds

Temperature: -20℃~500℃ 1℃/2℉ ±(2.0%+2counts)

AC DC Current Clamp Meter

DC current: 6A/60A/100A 0.001A/0.01A/0.1A ±(3.0%+5counts)

DC current(μA): 0-200μA 0.1μA ±(0.8%+5counts)

AC current: 6A/60A/100A 0.001A/0.01A/0.1A ±(2.5%+5counts)

DC voltage: 6V/60V/600V 0.001V/0.01V/0.1V ±(1.0%+3counts)

AC voltage: 6V/60V/600V 0.001V/0.01V/0.1V ±(1.0%+3counts)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MX3PTBW/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5QKQ5L/


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Author Topic: A look at the Uni-T UT210E (Read 439708 times)

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