Thsinde 210E, seems an improved version.
.... How modify for adding Frequency...
Mine has a 24C08 in it. So its 1024 Bytes instead of 256Bytes in a 24c02 used in the normal 210E.
There are some additional entries from 0x160 to 0x175 .(Attachment Link) " alt="" class="bbc_img" />
Maybe ...
Hi folks.
I would like to share a method I discovered to calibrate without need to read and write the flash memory.
Sorry if it is not new fou you, but I searched for it and did not found the procedure explained like this.
1-Simply hold pressed the HOLD+SELECT buttons while you turn on the meter to the ohms/continuity/diode option (second position). Then release the buttons.
I am not sure if this wheel position is really mandatory, but it is described in some places as the correct method.
The meter will show "CAL" and will do some auto tests. You can abort this tests pressing select 2 times. If you let it run over, it will end the auto-tests after some minutes.
(note: after change the count config to reach 6200 counts the aut-test take much more time, then I gave up waiting).
2-Now put in the function/scale you want to calibrate (rotate the wheel and press select until you reach there), can be DCV for example.
I tested only for DCV (all ranges) and DCA (all ranges) but most probably it will work for others, like ohms and capacitance. The ACV seams to share the calibration of DCV. I did not tested ACA.
3- Now comes the main part (apparently undocumented). While you are in whatever function you chose before, you can calibrate the zero point by pressing the ZERO button (once per function/scale calibration procedure) and the gain by pressing the HOLD button (short press to decrease the reading and long press to increase the reading). However, to do so you need to feed the leads with a known integer value, once each press in HOLD will jump the reading to next integer above(long press) or below(short press). So, for example if you feed 12.00Vdc but you read 11.82Vdc, than long press HOLD while you are sure the correct voltage is 12.00Vdc and the meter will adjust the reading to 12.00Vdc (first integer above 11.8V).
-Therefore, each long press will jump the reading to next integer above, while the short press will make jump to the next integer below.
-Depending the scale you are the jump may not be an integer, however you will figure it out while doing the process.
-Pay attention to the scale you are. As DCV is autoscale you need to adjust when you are at 0.000, when you are 00.00 and when you are 000.0. You need to change the scale by changing your voltage source. The point in each range to calibrate is a personal choice. I noticed that the linearity is not so good, than I prefered to calibrate at 17.00Vdc the 60Vdc range once I will be reading values mainly from my battery bank between 12 and 24Vdc.
4-After the procedure for all functions and scales you are interested to calibrate just turn off the meter. In the next turn on the new calibration is used normally.
In the attachment you can see my flash content before(left) and after(right) calibration. Differences are highlighted. I calibrated DCV and DCA only (all ranges).
It seems that some different memory positions were changed compared to the documented positions (devydd post). My meter use the DTM0660 chip.
What's its minimum detectable AC value? I mean the value based on your real experiences, not based on specs, better if in comparison with other more accurate instruments/gauges to see how "effective" is its lowest detected value
so we can answer the question: can this clamp measure down to 8-10mA in those domestic conditions with enough reliability?
we know the conditions: 50-60Hz, 220-230V AC (here in Italy) and a 1.5mm (= 0,059 in) diameter ground wire "many" meters (don't know) long. So could you please test this clamp on 2A scale in these conditions and tell me what's its minimum and "reliable enough" detectable AC value?
I mean it'd be fantastic if you could compare its minimum value with a more reliable tool (eg. fluke)
The PSG9080 only allows the output set in Vpp
As shown by the results of radiolistener's tests the readout of the UT210E at low AC currents is pretty ordinary (i.e. useless)
1) this clamp is not reliable enough measuring only one lead on 2A scale; 2) if looping the wire 10 times this clamp measures 20 times the real value. Consider that I asked them if this clamp will be good enough for my specific goal in my scenario. Maybe that user/forumer/buyer was just unlucky and got a "defective" ut210e?
I've just tested mine on AC current and it is completely off the scale. Another series DMM measures 137mA AC, while the UT210E shows zero A on AC.
If you want to detect 5 mA, UT210E can do it.
Aren't these statements in contradiction? Can you explain me please?
Aren't these statements in contradiction? Can you explain me please?
It can detect 5mA when its clamp is de-magnetized.
Demagnetized -> great sensitive clamp, that on DC can even sense the Earth magnetic field.
maybe I have a different version (the plastic on the clamp is red on mine, yours seems to be black plastic in the photo).
Apparently it self-magnetizes by itself.
Can you tell what offset (in DC Amps) your UT210E Pro displays before pressing zero on the DC 2A current range, and no wires, please?