I have looked at the available options to fit a FDD emulator that takes USB sticks. Sadly I cannot find a 1.44MB PC type that is slim enough, and compatible with the needs of the 313x series. There are plenty of cheap Chinese 'Standard' height FDD emulators so I may look at modifying one of those one day. I am still equipped to work with floppies so I may just leave well alone until such time as I must move to USB on the SA.I have tried a slimline 3.5" USB floppy emulator in my TDS510 scope but I found it sucked quite bad. You have to press buttons to transfer files to and from the drive with no feedback. I ended up buying a box of new TDK (A-brand) 1.4MB diskettes. I bet USB floppy drives will be around for a while. Maybe buy one or two to make sure. LAN to floppy would be much more interesting (and they are available as well!).
Did you use deoxit before? If not, then don't. Contact sprays contain acid which eats away metals so basically wrecking whatever equipment it touches. Over the years I've seen a lot of fine equipment becoming FUBAR due to contact spray.
I have been donated a R3132 but it fails to pass self test with the error 830. Broken Freq-Corr data.Lucky you! I'd like an R3132 as well even if it needs some TLC. In the R3131 some ADC/DAC and analogue switches can break. Perhaps yours suffers from the same problem. Or it may be you just need to connect the calibrator output to the input and do a self calibration.
DO you guys have any idea how to fix this?
I have been donated a R3132 but it fails to pass self test with the error 830. Broken Freq-Corr data.
DO you guys have any idea how to fix this?
cncjerry -- do you have a copy of the Maintenance Manual? This has the setup procedure for making the adjustment in Section 4.
The adjustment is to be made at 1GHz using the Frequency Counter on 1Hz resolution. In order to make the adjustment, one would need a 10MHz Frequency Standard which is fed into a RF Signal Generator that can output 1GHz at -10dBm.
On mine, after a good 30 minute warm-up, I was able to adjust the Master Oscillator to within 5 ppb or so. (That is 5Hz out of 1GHz.)
In general, the Maintenance Manual is not very good. There are no schematics.
I found a scanned PDF copy on the Internet.
The battery has me buggged, I would hate to lose my TG in the advantest. Couldn't you solder a battery onto the existing traces then clip the old one out?
Hello all,Maybe there is. In my R3131 the battery went flat and after replacement it wouldn't start properly. However.. I found a switch on the CPU board and when I pressed that while my R3131 was powered on it came back to life. This button probably initiates some kind of RTC data init. I may revive the tracking generator as well.
After replacing the Lithium Battery on my R3131 (which lasted 18 years), the RTC is again working, but my Tracking Generator (Option 74) is no longer recognized. This seems to be a common problem when the battery is replaced but I have yet to see a solution.
Standard operating procedure for replacing a Lithium cell whilst maintaining power to the SRAM...
1. Buy a 2 cell AA or AAA battery holder with flying lead output for connection to a PCB.
2. Fit 2 cells in the holder ;D
3. Solder the flying leads to the supply rails that the Lithium battery maintains (observing polarity)
4. Cut the lithium battery off of the PCB
5. Desolder the lithium battery pins
6. Insert the new Lithium battery and solder its pins.
7. Desolder the battery holder flying leads.
8. Job done :)
Note this is all done with the power to the equipment OFF !
For the very nervous amongst you, you can usually insert a 1K resistor in series with the battery holder flying leads, though this is not normally needed in the real world.
This approach came from an OEM service manual and is not some 'hack' method :-+
Aurora
I don't think that switch is something I can get at while the unit is powered on.The push button is near the rear so just leave the rear cover off and use a plastic pen or a thin finger.
nctnico,Did you press it long or short? Try pressing it for a couple of seconds AND keep it pressed in during power on. Maybe it takes a longer press or it is only detected during power on.
I have tried the reset button on the cpu board. Unfortunately it has no effect for re-enabling the tracking generator. :(
CJay,
I currently don't get the same results form both cables. I am suspicious that one is not working at all.
I will check to see if there is a power meter here at work that I can grab.
Are there any other suggestions for test devices that might help make this easier to troubleshoot?
If you feed a 50 Ohm RF signal source into a 50 input Spe trump Analyser and the source signal is so heavily loaded that it is taken below its calibrated output, you have a lo impedance fault on the front end of the Spectrum Analyser.
Fraser
CJay,
Thanks for pointing this out. I had, possibly incorrectly, assumed that he had injected a known level of signal into the SA and the signal had been loaded down. if it is just the reading on the faulty SA that is low, that is a whole different scenario
Apologies if I misread the symptoms. Too much going on in my life today !
Fraser
Standard operating procedure for replacing a Lithium cell whilst maintaining power to the SRAM...
1. Buy a 2 cell AA or AAA battery holder with flying lead output for connection to a PCB.
2. Fit 2 cells in the holder ;D
3. Solder the flying leads to the supply rails that the Lithium battery maintains (observing polarity)
4. Cut the lithium battery off of the PCB
5. Desolder the lithium battery pins
6. Insert the new Lithium battery and solder its pins.
7. Desolder the battery holder flying leads.
8. Job done :)
Note this is all done with the power to the equipment OFF !
For the very nervous amongst you, you can usually insert a 1K resistor in series with the battery holder flying leads, though this is not normally needed in the real world.
This approach came from an OEM service manual and is not some 'hack' method :-+
Aurora
Doesn't this require a floating soldering iron? I don't think touching an ESD-safe tip to a powered rail is a great idea...
Standard operating procedure for replacing a Lithium cell whilst maintaining power to the SRAM...
1. Buy a 2 cell AA or AAA battery holder with flying lead output for connection to a PCB.
2. Fit 2 cells in the holder ;D
3. Solder the flying leads to the supply rails that the Lithium battery maintains (observing polarity)
4. Cut the lithium battery off of the PCB
5. Desolder the lithium battery pins
6. Insert the new Lithium battery and solder its pins.
7. Desolder the battery holder flying leads.
8. Job done :)
Note this is all done with the power to the equipment OFF !
For the very nervous amongst you, you can usually insert a 1K resistor in series with the battery holder flying leads, though this is not normally needed in the real world.
This approach came from an OEM service manual and is not some 'hack' method :-+
Aurora
Doesn't this require a floating soldering iron? I don't think touching an ESD-safe tip to a powered rail is a great idea...
!! I want specify better these procedure: if you change the lithium battery and you have installed the option TG (Traking Generator),
you will lost all the additional firmware for the TG and the TG will stop to work and a error message it will appear on the display.
If someone have this problem, I have all the firmware needed to re-load again with the floppy disc, and all the procedure and password needed to load the TG firmware again. !!
I hope this can solve the problems "if" the battery it's sudden dead, otherwise if you not want losing the firmware for the TG, connect the new one battery in parallel to the old one, and after you will remove the old one.
I hope this can help someone with trouble...
Ciao
Standard operating procedure for replacing a Lithium cell whilst maintaining power to the SRAM...
1. Buy a 2 cell AA or AAA battery holder with flying lead output for connection to a PCB.
2. Fit 2 cells in the holder ;D
3. Solder the flying leads to the supply rails that the Lithium battery maintains (observing polarity)
4. Cut the lithium battery off of the PCB
5. Desolder the lithium battery pins
6. Insert the new Lithium battery and solder its pins.
7. Desolder the battery holder flying leads.
8. Job done :)
Note this is all done with the power to the equipment OFF !
For the very nervous amongst you, you can usually insert a 1K resistor in series with the battery holder flying leads, though this is not normally needed in the real world.
This approach came from an OEM service manual and is not some 'hack' method :-+
Aurora
Doesn't this require a floating soldering iron? I don't think touching an ESD-safe tip to a powered rail is a great idea...
!! I want specify better these procedure: if you change the lithium battery and you have installed the option TG (Traking Generator),
you will lost all the additional firmware for the TG and the TG will stop to work and a error message it will appear on the display.
If someone have this problem, I have all the firmware needed to re-load again with the floppy disc, and all the procedure and password needed to load the TG firmware again. !!
I hope this can solve the problems "if" the battery it's sudden dead, otherwise if you not want losing the firmware for the TG, connect the new one battery in parallel to the old one, and after you will remove the old one.
I hope this can help someone with trouble...
Ciao
Great news, how do I get a copy of the code to reload the TG? I've been needing to change my battery but was afraid of screwing up and losing the TG.
Thanks!
I have the same problem. But my battery was death completely so tg and other add programs was death too. Could you send me e-mail your programs and password, please?Standard operating procedure for replacing a Lithium cell whilst maintaining power to the SRAM...
1. Buy a 2 cell AA or AAA battery holder with flying lead output for connection to a PCB.
2. Fit 2 cells in the holder ;D
3. Solder the flying leads to the supply rails that the Lithium battery maintains (observing polarity)
4. Cut the lithium battery off of the PCB
5. Desolder the lithium battery pins
6. Insert the new Lithium battery and solder its pins.
7. Desolder the battery holder flying leads.
8. Job done :)
Note this is all done with the power to the equipment OFF !
For the very nervous amongst you, you can usually insert a 1K resistor in series with the battery holder flying leads, though this is not normally needed in the real world.
This approach came from an OEM service manual and is not some 'hack' method :-+
Aurora
Doesn't this require a floating soldering iron? I don't think touching an ESD-safe tip to a powered rail is a great idea...
!! I want specify better these procedure: if you change the lithium battery and you have installed the option TG (Traking Generator),
you will lost all the additional firmware for the TG and the TG will stop to work and a error message it will appear on the display.
If someone have this problem, I have all the firmware needed to re-load again with the floppy disc, and all the procedure and password needed to load the TG firmware again. !!
I hope this can solve the problems "if" the battery it's sudden dead, otherwise if you not want losing the firmware for the TG, connect the new one battery in parallel to the old one, and after you will remove the old one.
I hope this can help someone with trouble...
Ciao
Great news, how do I get a copy of the code to reload the TG? I've been needing to change my battery but was afraid of screwing up and losing the TG.
Thanks!
If you change the battery with some precautions, ther are not problems (like two battery in parallell and after you will remove the old one).
In case all will it went wrong... I can email to you all the complete procedure, file to save in the floppy disc and the password.
Ciao
I have the same problem. But my battery was death completely so tg and other add programs was death too. Could you send me e-mail your programs and password, please?Standard operating procedure for replacing a Lithium cell whilst maintaining power to the SRAM...
1. Buy a 2 cell AA or AAA battery holder with flying lead output for connection to a PCB.
2. Fit 2 cells in the holder ;D
3. Solder the flying leads to the supply rails that the Lithium battery maintains (observing polarity)
4. Cut the lithium battery off of the PCB
5. Desolder the lithium battery pins
6. Insert the new Lithium battery and solder its pins.
7. Desolder the battery holder flying leads.
8. Job done :)
Note this is all done with the power to the equipment OFF !
For the very nervous amongst you, you can usually insert a 1K resistor in series with the battery holder flying leads, though this is not normally needed in the real world.
This approach came from an OEM service manual and is not some 'hack' method :-+
Aurora
Doesn't this require a floating soldering iron? I don't think touching an ESD-safe tip to a powered rail is a great idea...
!! I want specify better these procedure: if you change the lithium battery and you have installed the option TG (Traking Generator),
you will lost all the additional firmware for the TG and the TG will stop to work and a error message it will appear on the display.
If someone have this problem, I have all the firmware needed to re-load again with the floppy disc, and all the procedure and password needed to load the TG firmware again. !!
I hope this can solve the problems "if" the battery it's sudden dead, otherwise if you not want losing the firmware for the TG, connect the new one battery in parallel to the old one, and after you will remove the old one.
I hope this can help someone with trouble...
Ciao
Great news, how do I get a copy of the code to reload the TG? I've been needing to change my battery but was afraid of screwing up and losing the TG.
Thanks!
If you change the battery with some precautions, ther are not problems (like two battery in parallell and after you will remove the old one).
In case all will it went wrong... I can email to you all the complete procedure, file to save in the floppy disc and the password.
Ciao
AFAIK you should be able to do a self calibration to get all these values right.I cannot do self calibration because factory defaults have changed. So I need these values.
I no longer have my R3131 but after I changed the battery on mine all I had to do was a self calibration and everything was fine. There is also a button near the rear on the motherboard which seems to load some defaults. I needed to press that one during startup to get my R3131 running properly after the battery swap.I changed RF Tunes on engineer mode because tracking generator is not working right. After that I couldn't do calibration at all.
I lost my factory default. Could you write me some values? Shift+5 , pass: 882323 , I RF, YTO Tune, Max1stLO and Min1stLO hexadecimal values. Thanks your helps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQ_S4Br1ftg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQ_S4Br1ftg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ2W3clPFdA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ2W3clPFdA)
Regards,
Marcel
I lost my factory default. Could you write me some values? Shift+5 , pass: 882323 , I RF, YTO Tune, Max1stLO and Min1stLO hexadecimal values. Thanks your helps.
Max1stLO 0x0DA6
Min1stLO 0x0120
After a lot of reading on the internet and informing, I managed to replace a damaged 1st mixer of a Advantest R3131.
The original mixer (DMJ 4317-1) is no longer available but has found an excellent alternative by using an HSMS-2822.
Below you see two photos, one with the damaged mixer and a picture with the alternative mixer. Both photos were taken without any RF input. The differences are clearly perceptible.
Probably these diodes can also be used in other older Advantest Spectrum Analyzers, take advantage of them.
In any case, there is exactly the same mixer in the U4342 that I also have.
Hello Marcal,
Thank you very much for quick answer to my question.
Though I have used your values, the self test failed unfortunately.
My S/N of R3131 is 81780912.
Again thank you for your information.
konisan
import visa
rm = visa.ResourceManager()
print(rm.list_resources())
SA = rm.open_resource('GPIB0::8::INSTR')
print(SA.query("*IDN?"))
print('Start frequency = ' + SA.query("FA?"))
print('Stop frequency = ' + SA.query("FB?"))
SA.query("CONTS") # set sweep mode to normal and full
print('Sweep mode = ' + SA.query("SWM?"))
SA.query("TS") # reset and take sweep
SA.query("TM FREE") # set trigger to free run mode
print('What updates memory A at each sweep (0=write, 1=view, 2=blank) ? ' + SA.query('TA?'))
SA.query('AV') # Send A view command
# query to retrieve sweep
test = SA.query_binary_values('TBA?', datatype='H', is_big_endian=True, container=list, header_fmt='empty', expect_termination=True)
print(len(test))
print(test)
rm.close
('ASRL1::INSTR', 'ASRL3::INSTR', 'GPIB0::3::INSTR', 'GPIB0::8::INSTR')
ADVANTEST,R3131A,01780698,C00
Start frequency = +9.00000000000E+03
Stop frequency = +5.00000000000E+07
Sweep mode = 0
What updates memory A at each sweep (0=write, 1=view, 2=blank) ? 1
501
[0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0]
Thanks Saabfan,
The function IS enabled but I get an error message that the output is not levelized, and I believe there is no output at all.
Looking for some kind of block description on what goes on inside the TG module so I have a place to start troubleshooting.
Charles
Hello,
I appreciate all the work you have done for the 3131.
I just got one and replaced the battery per the info in this thread. Working my way thru the pass/fail tests.
The TG in the unit doesn't work and the main connector wasn't plugged in. anyone have any info on it and where to begin to service.
THANK YOU
Just remembered, I uploaded my 2nd LO adjustment guide to the Advantestinstrument Yahoo Group. You can download it from there. Its over 1MB so cannot be attached here.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/advantestinstrument/files/-%3DAdvantest%20-%20R3132%3D-/
UPDATE & WARNING
Please read all of this thread. It has become apparent that two versions of R3132 RF module were made. My newer modules use a dropper resistor in series with the 2nd LO MMIC and buffer MMIC supply rails. Earlier versions of the RF Module do not contain this dropper resistor ad use a lower supply voltage to the MMIC's. This thread contains details of teh lower voltage level measured by a fellow forum member.
Fraser
Would you happen to still have this doc now that Yahoo Groups is dead?
I got a pair of R3132s cheap at a swap meet locally. Looks exactly like the 2nd Stage VCO has drifted.
Thanks for the replies. Checked it with an o'scope, turns out my TG has an offset by almost 22 MHz.
Probably the same issue that was reported by other people.
Already did the mainboard switch trick, didn't work unfortunately.
First of all happy new year everyone.
Sorry for my late reply, I've a bit busy with some other things.
I've taken out the RF board from the SA and removed the shielding from the TG.
As far as I understand there are two versions of the TG, how do I recognize this and where would the adjustment arm be?
Also where is TP401 located?
I can change units back to dBm in Level menu, but it will revert back to dBμV after every reset.
Fixed.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img208/2295/uh6.jpg)
The issue was in the 4th section of the IF/LOG board. I replaced the AD606 log opamp (a $40 part) and it was not failing as bad - there was a small amount more gain in the stepamp test stage.
I then replaced the AD826 opamps after that. No change. Then I replaced the two 4072 opamps at the very tail end of the IF board. These drive the signal through the backplane connector onto the ADC / CPU board where it is digitized. Replaced both here and the problem was fixed.
The original is an ON Semi 4072 family, my replacement was MC34072DR2G.
After running warm for an hour it still passes with flying colors.
Thanks to everyone for your support