AN8008 US $19, 9999count, 1uV, 0.01uA, 0.01Ohm, 1pF resolution meter

[Crumble]

My AN8008 finally shut off after running non-stop for over 16 days. I never saw the low battery indicator appear on screen. I had just checked it late yesterday afternoon and there was no low battery warning, but this morning it was dead. So it must not appear until only a few percent of battery life remains. I checked the two batteries when I took them out for recharge and they were at 1.219 and 1.225 volts. The batteries used were regular (non-eneloop type) Energizer brand NiMH rated 850 mAH.

I tested one of the meters (AN8002 or AN8008, I forgot which one) and it seemed to work down to 2,2V without loss of accuracy. A NiMH is pretty much depleted by 1,1V, so I'm not worried. Given the fact the unit uses about 1,2mA your 16 days seems to be in the same rough ballpark using (as I do) 500mAh LSD cells. I use these brown Ikea cells, they are not overly expensive and they are said to be rather good. Just make sure you have a spare set of batteries lying around (if not I'll just open a remote while charging the ones from the meter). To be honest I was more annoyed by the fact it keeps on beeping when turning off the APO then by it's depleting batteries in "just" 16 days of continuous use.

[Mr. Scram]

...unless you want to measure milliamps.

I thought the milliamps range was supposed to be good on the AN8008.

[HKJ]

...unless you want to measure milliamps.

I thought the milliamps range was supposed to be good on the AN8008.

The higher mA is good, the lower mA is missing.

[stj]

wouldnt lower mA readings be covered by the uA range, given it's a 10,000 count meter?

[HKJ]

wouldnt lower mA readings be covered by the uA range, given it's a 10,000 count meter?

You can do up to 1mA in the uA range, the mA range only has a 1000mA range with 0.1mA resolution, i.e. worst case mA is with one digit after the decimal point.

[Fungus]

wouldnt lower mA readings be covered by the uA range, given it's a 10,000 count meter?

You can do up to 1mA in the uA range, the mA range only has a 1000mA range with 0.1mA resolution, i.e. worst case mA is with one digit after the decimal point.

That doesn't sound too bad on paper but I often have things which wobble around the 1-2mA range, sometimes dipping below 1mA. That would be impossible to measure with this meter.

It's a good meter for the money but you better have another meter with better milliamp range, eg. AN8002.

[metrologist]

That's one reason why I bought both.

what's the worst case? 999.9uA jumps to 001.0mA?

I don't have it handy and haven't used it much there yet.

[HKJ]

what's the worst case? 999.9uA jumps to 001.0mA?

You have to turn the range switch between uA and mA

[Fungus]

what's the worst case? 999.9uA jumps to 001.0mA?

More like 999.9uA jumps to 0L

[metrologist]

what's the worst case? 999.9uA jumps to 001.0mA?

More like 999.9uA jumps to 0L

What would you expect this meter to do when set to uA?

I agree the A range should be one decade lower, if that is what is required for this chipset.

[floobydust]

They ran out of positions on the rotary switch for 9mA and 99mA ranges. You have to switch to a mid-shunt (R24, 1R) which is already on the PCB.
Right now its 0.010 or 100 shunt only. The DMM IC supports these ranges, have to hack the rotary switch and add CAL factors to EEPROM.

[mnementh]

well space is an issue for a lot of us, i really couldnt get any more scopes of the classic type - something like a rigol,yes.
but no space for any more crt scopes. 

LOL... space IS an issue for me too. That's why I'm down to these absolutely ESSENTIAL few from *mumblety-seven* that I USED TO have. 


in other news... my spaghetti 17B meter arrived today, along with a brand-new new radiator for my Franken-Cruiser. Both delivered to my door a day early, and a total cost of less than $65. How the hell is that even POSSIBLE?!? 

In all honesty, the spaghetti 17B has quite a bit more "quality" feel than even my old "backup" $99 Sperry; that cheap vinyl boot makes a helluva difference. Large, crisp  numbers, but not the broadest viewing angle... however, still easy to read even with my glasses off. I'd like a longer BL timer; but then, I'd prefer 4 AA power to support that with tolerable battery life. It's rated 1000VDC/600V Cat IV on the front with a 250V rated Fuse inside; I suppose if you stuck the leads up 4 cats' arses and probed with their noses you might could measure that with some theoretical measure of safety.   


Anyhoo... my only regret now is that I didn't buy 10 more to sell; guess I'll have to fund my soldering station habit some other way. 


Cheers,


mnem
If we save the whales, where will we keep them?

[bitseeker]

If we save the whales, where will we keep them?

Yes, space would definitely be an issue.

[kde]

You have to switch to a mid-shunt (R24, 1R) which is already on the PCB.

Do you know where can I find the full AN8008 circuit diagram?

[floobydust]

There are no formal schematics, I traced one out and it is pretty much the datasheet with an external Vref IC:
Some are translated, if you search the web.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-aneng-multimeter/msg1279811/#msg1279811

[texaspyro]

I got in a Ragu 17B+ and it has a problem.  The volts range reads 10% low... 5V in says 4.546 B out.  Seems to read OK when manual ranging on the other ranges.   Looks like somebody at the factory screwed up the calibration.

[MacMeter]

I got in a Ragu 17B+ and it has a problem.  The volts range reads 10% low... 5V in says 4.546 B out.  Seems to read OK when manual ranging on the other ranges.   Looks like somebody at the factory screwed up the calibration.

I bought the Ragu to leave on a work truck to monitor an 1800 amp diesel generator. Same issue I reported earlier, voltage readings seem fine. Hertz readings seem accurate, but I've had problems in both hertz dial positions. So far I can't reliably reproduce the problems. In the first dial position for hertz and voltage, I get no readings for hertz at times, but can get a reading in the dedicated hertz dial position, then at times this behavior is just the opposite. The "select" button does not work as expected in these modes as well. I guess for $10, it's workable, but obviously the firmware/software as well as button modes was not well tested.

[Fungus]

I've had problems in both hertz dial positions. So far I can't reliably reproduce the problems. In the first dial position for hertz and voltage, I get no readings for hertz at times, but can get a reading in the dedicated hertz dial position, then at times this behavior is just the opposite.

The AC mode "Hertz" function is probably only for low frequencies (mains AC).

The dedicated Hz function will probably go much higher.

If you don't get a reading, try swapping the leads around. These meters often need a zero crossing to work. eg. My AN860B+ only measures the frequency of Arduino pins when the leads are connected "backwards".

[MacMeter]

I've had problems in both hertz dial positions. So far I can't reliably reproduce the problems. In the first dial position for hertz and voltage, I get no readings for hertz at times, but can get a reading in the dedicated hertz dial position, then at times this behavior is just the opposite.

The AC mode "Hertz" function is probably only for low frequencies (mains AC).

The dedicated Hz function will probably go much higher.

If you don't get a reading, try swapping the leads around. These meters often need a zero crossing to work. eg. My AN860B+ only measures the frequency of Arduino pins when the leads are connected "backwards".

All my tests have been on 60 Hz sources, the Geny is a 3-phase crystal sync. However, come Monday I'll try your suggestion of reversing the leads. Thanks.

[stj]

it's in the "manual", each Hz setting has different voltage and frequency limits.

the one on the voltage position has a very limited frequency range 40Hz-1KHz - probably intended for testing power sources,
the dedicated range is only supposed to work upto about 35v if i remember right.

[MacMeter]

it's in the "manual", each Hz setting has different voltage and frequency limits.

the one on the voltage position has a very limited frequency range 40Hz-1KHz - probably intended for testing power sources,
the dedicated range is only supposed to work upto about 35v if i remember right.

First, I'm reading both power company mains at 120 volts AC at 60 cycles, and a generator that delivers the same. Secondly, I don't believe the link for the manual you posted is for the Ragu meter. In that PDF, it's mentioned it uses AA batteries, the Ragu uses a 9volt battery, and it does not come with a temp probe. The manual I found was very skimpy and very few specs!

This is the link for the Ragu 17B manual I copied from the Amazon page:
https://www.crenova.net/Uploads/Product/Manual/59a3ee4283015.pdf

[Mr. Scram]

First, I'm reading both power company mains at 120 volts AC at 60 cycles, and a generator that delivers the same. Secondly, I don't believe the link for the manual you posted is for the Ragu meter. In that PDF, it's mentioned it uses AA batteries, the Ragu uses a 9volt battery, and it does not come with a temp probe. The manual I found was very skimpy and very few specs!

You use this meter on mains?

[MacMeter]

First, I'm reading both power company mains at 120 volts AC at 60 cycles, and a generator that delivers the same. Secondly, I don't believe the link for the manual you posted is for the Ragu meter. In that PDF, it's mentioned it uses AA batteries, the Ragu uses a 9volt battery, and it does not come with a temp probe. The manual I found was very skimpy and very few specs!

You use this meter on mains?

Yes, both 120 and 240 volts, I have a clamp meter for amps.

[Fungus]

First, I'm reading both power company mains at 120 volts AC at 60 cycles, and a generator that delivers the same. Secondly, I don't believe the link for the manual you posted is for the Ragu meter. In that PDF, it's mentioned it uses AA batteries, the Ragu uses a 9volt battery, and it does not come with a temp probe. The manual I found was very skimpy and very few specs!

You use this meter on mains?

And on a 1800 amp diesel generator, apparently. 

Yes, both 120 and 240 volts, I have a clamp meter for amps.

Is there any reason that you didn't buy something like a Fluke 101 for $42 delivered? It has a genuine CAT III 600V rating and is perfect for this sort of work, especially in combination with your clamp.

[MacMeter]

First, I'm reading both power company mains at 120 volts AC at 60 cycles, and a generator that delivers the same. Secondly, I don't believe the link for the manual you posted is for the Ragu meter. In that PDF, it's mentioned it uses AA batteries, the Ragu uses a 9volt battery, and it does not come with a temp probe. The manual I found was very skimpy and very few specs!

You use this meter on mains?

And on a 1800 amp diesel generator, apparently. 

Yes, both 120 and 240 volts, I have a clamp meter for amps.

Is there any reason that you didn't buy a Fluke 101 for $42 delivered? It has a genuine CAT III 600V rating and is perfect for this sort of work, especially in combination with your clamp.

My best trusted meter is the BM235. I bought this Ragu at $10, to simply keep plugged in to monitor the voltage and frequency of the generator all day, I plan on making a battery eliminator. I have access to co-workers Flukes as well, but in 36 years of basic electric work, and reading voltage up to 240 AC with Radio Shack meters if that's what I had at hand. I've never had an issue in the specific applications I'm using them for.