There are 3 main types of analog movements from my background in automotive instrumentation,
first is a spring balanced galvanometer, its a coil, a counterweight and a hairspring to pull it back to zero with a tiny amount of force, this hairspring also dampens the meters response, general motion range is 270 degrees, but you can get to about 330 degrees if you really had to push it, if the bearing on the shaft are made out of quality material they can be surprisingly accurate, with almost no hysteresis, The cheaper mass produced ones will have no balance adjust on the middle of the shaft to fine tune the counter weight, and tend to use plastic bearings, in there use case they last and last, but they have about 1 degree of hysteresis (think holden VS commodore speedometer, yes even the police model)
Next up is a cross coil movement, these tend to be between 60 and 110 degrees of deflection, there very fast, to respond, with a deflection time under 0.5 seconds, its literally 2 coild crossed at an angle, older ones where not perpendicular, modern ones are, there is generally no hairspring and rely on the force applied to hold it firm, while the limited deflection range limits the amount of gravity it has to deflect against, in reality tilting them on there side on most will cause a reading change, its a reference coil and a signal coil, adjusting the ratio of currents changes the deflection, its non linear on most
Third and final is a sin / cos meter movement, these are similar to the cross coil, but are not range limited, and the winding are generally tilted over being straight up and down, these are the most common on modern dashes, some have hairsprings but most do not, these have an unlimited deflection range as you can spin them as many rotations as you please, there main downside is they are bistable, if you rotate the pointer 180 degrees from its current position it will remain and track from that position, and again rely on the large power being driven in to fight gravity, so they have a tendancy to read low at lower speeds, and higher at higher speeds, this is part of the reason why so many cars have expanded scales, if they had 110kmph at the dead end of the scale the movement would end up sitting closer to 118 at the far end, while its pointed dead up its pretty on the mark,
My favorite is the galvanometer type, as most you can easily tweak to be extremely linear and accurate, not to mention is the only type that tries to compensate for balancing issues, so that your speedometer doesn't gain 5kmph just by being on an incline,
Both digital and analog meters have there place, it comes down to how your using it, and to previous posts, most analog meter drivers until about 2002 where analog frequency to current converters, following the old KISS principle, for most of those it was cranking on flat batteries of mechanical issues that led them to needing repairs,