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ANENG AN8001, 6000 count true RMS Multimeter for $14.

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edavid:

--- Quote from: hugatry on November 17, 2016, 09:13:27 am ---Two AAAs? Awesome! I ordered one (labeled RM101) and at that time description said it uses 9V batteries. I wen't and checked the description again and it indeed has been updated... 2xAAA it is!

--- End quote ---

Now that 9V Li-ion batteries are available cheaply, I would actually prefer 9V to AAA.


--- Quote from: daveshah on November 17, 2016, 01:59:22 pm ---I think they're 3.6x10mm form factor. Looking at a Littlefuse part with axial leads but otherwise similar specs it's interrupt rating is 50A at 250VAC which I'm not sure is even good enough for domestic mains work.

--- End quote ---

It's fine for those of us in 120VAC countries.

wraper:

--- Quote from: edavid on November 17, 2016, 04:16:54 pm ---Now that 9V Li-ion batteries are available cheaply, I would actually prefer 9V to AAA

--- End quote ---
And what the point? There is no capacity advantage of cheap Li-ion over AAA eneloop (low discharge). High capacity Li-ion is costs the same or more than the meter itself. Also it would make the meter thicker.

edavid:

--- Quote from: wraper on November 17, 2016, 04:37:59 pm ---
--- Quote from: edavid on November 17, 2016, 04:16:54 pm ---Now that 9V Li-ion batteries are available cheaply, I would actually prefer 9V to AAA

--- End quote ---
And what the point? There is no capacity advantage of cheap Li-ion over AAA eneloop (low discharge).

--- End quote ---

Li-ion 9V: 8.4V * 600mAh = 5Wh
Eneloop 2*AAA: 2.4V * 800mAh = 1.9Wh


--- Quote ---High capacity Li-ion is costs the same or more than the meter itself. Also it would make the meter thicker.

--- End quote ---

I have been paying $3 each for 9V Li-ion, compared to $2 each for AAA eneloops, so the Li-ion is cheaper.
How much do you pay for AAAs?

Also, the self discharge rate of the Li-ion is even better than eneloops, which is nice for a meter that may not be used often.

omgfire:

--- Quote from: edavid on November 17, 2016, 04:55:29 pm ---Li-ion 9V: 8.4V * 600mAh = 5Wh
Eneloop 2*AAA: 2.4V * 800mAh = 1.9Wh

--- End quote ---
Let's have a look at eM860T for example http://www.kerrywong.com/2016/03/13/quick-review-of-the-ennologic-em860t-true-rms-multimeter/
It uses linear voltage regulator to drop 9V battery to 3V, so you should look at A*h instead of W*h.

DTM0660 require 2.4V ~ 3.6V, so using 9V battery in DTM0660 based multimeters is wasteful. Couple AA would have four times more mA*h than 9V battery.

H.O:
I just got one of these ANENG AN8001 meters. I stumbled across it a on EBAY a couple of weeks back and was interested to see how it compared to the little FLUKE101. There's plenty of teardown photos in the previously posted links so there's no need for me to post any photos of it.

Sizewise it's pretty much identical to the FLUKE101. The AN8001 is a little bit lighter and overall it feels a bit cheaper but then again, it's $14.

Mechanically it feels fairly solid, not quite as rigid as the FLUKE101 but certainly not bad in comparison. The input jacks is not nearly as solid as on the FLUKE though. The AN8001 does have a tilting stand (which the FLUKE101 doesn't) but it's quite flimsy and you really can't push the buttons with your index finger without the meter falling over. But you can easily support the meter with your fingers and press the buttons with your thumb - which I tend to do anyway.

The range switch is fairly snappy with distinct positions but you CAN (ie, if you try to) easily position the knob between two positions. You can do that on the FLUKE101 as well but not quite as easily.

The digits are about 50% bigger on the AN8001 compared to the FLUKE101, which I like. The viewing angle is really good side to side and quite good looking at it from the bottom (ie with it lying in front of you on the bench), it's not that great looking at it from above. The FLUKE101 on the other hand is about the same (really good) all around. The AN8001 does have a backlight (the FLUKE101 doesn't) which is fairly uniform with a bit of a hotspot on the right hand side of the display (where the LED obviously is). The viewing angle, with the backlight on, gets a whole lot worse. Side to side it's still quite good, from the bottom it's OK but you start to see the unlit segments but pretty much anything "beyond" straight on and the digits just disappears.

The continuity buzzer on the AN8001 is MUCH better compared to the FLUKE101. It's latched (so is the FLUKE101) but the AN8001 is a lot faster, probably on par the FLUKE189 etc.

One thing I don't like with the FLUKE101 is the autoranging. It's fairly slow and it keeps bouncing numbers and decimal points across the screen as it goes thru the ranges. The AN8001 isn't much (if any) faster but at least it seems to blank out the digits, does its thing and THEN come up with a number. I don't know, perhaps I'm being picky.

I did a couple of comparing measurments between the two (and a FLUKE189 acting as a "reference"). On the ranges where the 189 has more resolution I've rounded the numbers off to display the same number of digits.
--- Code: --------------- DC MILLIVOLTS -----------
FLUKE189 FLUKE101 AN8011
50.26mV N/A 50.31mV
200.3mV N/A 200.3mV
600.5mV N/A 600.4mV
--- End code ---
The mV range on the AN8001 is weird. When disconnecting the leads the display value jumps up and then very slowly (as in minutes) bleeds off. Switching ranges back and forth clears it. And re-connecting the leads "instantly" displays the "new" voltage.


--- Code: ----------------- DC VOLTS --------------
FLUKE189 FLUKE101 AN8011
 2,499 2,510 2,498
 4,999 5,023 4,998
 7,50 7,53 7,49
10,00 10,04 9,99
--- End code ---


--- Code: ----------------- Resistance ------------
FLUKE189 FLUKE101 AN8011
10.3 Ohms 10.3 Ohms * 10.2 Ohms
14.93k 14.93k 14.93k
1.048M 1.049M 1.046M
--- End code ---
* After it's initial autorange dance the FLUKE101 settles on 10.9 Ohms. Then over a period of maby 5 seconds it creeps down to 10.3 Ohms.


--- Code: ---------------- Capacitance ------------
FLUKE189 FLUKE101 AN8011
2.35nF 2.25nF 2.27nF
19.8nF 19.50nF 19.70nF
10.85uF 10.72uF 10.82uF
--- End code ---

I haven't done any measurements on the ACV or current ranges but if anyone want's to see that, or anything else for that matter, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

Disclaimer: I've only played around with the meter for a couple of hours and I've had the FLUKE101 for a little while longer but to be honest I like the AN8001 more than the FLUKE101. The weird thing with the mV range bothers me (so does the weird thing that the FLUKE does on the Ohms range) and the lack of proper input protection and those tiny fuses means I will not stick it across the 3-phase power comming into the house. The FLUKE is good in that regard since it doesn't even HAVE a current range and it DOES have proper input protection.

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